Moby Grape TR 9/17/07


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Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 20, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
I've been wanting to try and post a TR for awhile - I'm going to give it a go. Picture perfect weather in Franconia Notch

Moby Grape - a classic 5.8 on good granite. Some really fun climbing!!! 9 pitches.

View of Cannon Cliff from the parking lot

Pitch 1 of Moby Grape - Reppy's Crack

Dave leading

Pitch 2

me on lead pitch 3

The Triangle Roof Pitch 4

Dave leading Pitch 5

The Fickle Finger of fate Pitch 6

I'm not used to body jamming WHEW!!!

Start of pitch 7

Pitch 8

Dave at the top

Victory beers

A view down the Notch

A couple of climbers from NY on VMC Direct 5.11

Hounds Hump - on the other side of the Notch

handsome B

Gym climber
Sep 20, 2007 - 04:55pm PT
looks like a grand adventure, thanks for keeping the vibe alive!

Trad climber
Sep 20, 2007 - 04:57pm PT
very cool. thanks for taking the time to post up!

It looks super fun...
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Sep 20, 2007 - 04:57pm PT

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 20, 2007 - 05:00pm PT
Nice pics, thanks for sharing!

Looks like you got yourself wedged in behind the Fickle Finger of Fate, but good! Lucky you made it out.


Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 20, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
Nice photos. So how'd ya (both) like the climbing?

Trad climber
Sep 20, 2007 - 05:04pm PT
Very Cool Mack! Thanks for putting that together, looks like some beautiful rock.


Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2007 - 05:13pm PT
The climbing at Cannon is superb! I'm sure you've been there. We intended to do Vertigo but the plan got changed at the last minute due to an unforseen sticky rubber shortage.


Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Sep 20, 2007 - 05:29pm PT
I noticed in some of the pics Dave looked like he was wearing approach shoes, was that the sticky issue?

That Fickle Finger was Funky, looks like it's ready to teeter backwards.

Looks like a great day on the rock, cheers!

right here, right now
Sep 20, 2007 - 05:59pm PT
Moby Grape!
I want it bad.
And that VMC Direct, or Direct Direct...

Social climber
St. Looney
Sep 20, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
Very fun. Thanks for posting and sharing. I look forward to your next TR. Should we expect it on Monday? :)

Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
Sep 20, 2007 - 07:42pm PT
OMG that route looks amazing!!! Thanks for posting.


Sep 20, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
Nice going, great report!

I was thankful I got to hang out there a bit. A bit spooky overall with the looseness, but full of its own character and heritage.

Thanks for the show = )

East Coast US
Sep 20, 2007 - 09:12pm PT
I spent an uncomfortable night on that ledge in the pitch 7 photo in 1983. Off route, stuck rope, arguing partners, thunderstorm, no rain gear.... kinda sounds like a Reid depiction, except we lived :)
Aya K

Trad climber
New York
Sep 20, 2007 - 09:29pm PT

But, ahem, p1 of Moby Grape isn't really Reppy's Crack. It kind of has its own first pitch that is cool in its of weird, 3-d regard!

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Sep 20, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
The original P1 of Moby is nasty, awkward, and poorly protected. Reppy's shouldn't be missed unless there are already 3 parties in line for it (like I've always seen it....)

Trad climber
Sep 20, 2007 - 09:55pm PT
Mack, awesome pics. Rumor has it that your partner forgot his climbing shoes and you saved the day by leading all the hard pitches. Way to go.

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 20, 2007 - 09:55pm PT
Naw, the original P1 of Moby Grape is a much more interesting & varied lead than Reppy's Crack.
The latter is a photogenic exercise in foot pain.

Trad climber
Sep 20, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
Wow, that rock looks clean. Looks like you had a beautiful day to climb.
Thanks for posting.

Oakland: what's not to love?
Sep 20, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
Looks like a trippy route. Not sure why, first word that came to my head while looking at your photos. Thanks for 'em!
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