Hot Henry changed climbing!

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Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Oct 2, 2007 - 02:52pm PT

My 0.15 minutes of fame ... I was Roger's belayer on a few of Chelton's photo shoots for Climbing. If you squint real hard at the pictures ....

GOclimb

Trad climber

Boston, MA

Oct 2, 2007 - 04:43pm PT

Never met him, but this weekend, I did a climb of his in my neighborhood (near Boston), called Jane. I understand that in '72 when he freed it at 5.11, it was one of the hardest pitches in the country. Still feels hard today!

Oh, and I led it with just webbing wrapped around me. I hadn't set out to be "old school", I just accidentally forgot my harness - d'oh! Provided strong incentive not to fall!

GO

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Oct 2, 2007 - 08:03pm PT

Don't think I've posted this picture before ... Henry barefootin' (no those aren't shoes) up the 5.10 crux of Missing Link, 1980.

ghand

Sport climber

Golden,Colorado

Dec 29, 2007 - 10:03pm PT

I just read the story jstan told of Henry at Stewart's Ice Cream where he tells of a competition between Henry and a "person who will remain nameless but I will here call Ghand". While I would have liked to have been that person, John must be mistaken. I do not remember that episode at all. Plus, I have never eaten strawberry topping. I am a true chocolate/vanilla snob. Specifically home made, as I am sure John knows my first date with my wife (Aug 1973) was to make homemade ice cream. I just made some for Xmas and I am making some tomorrow for my granddaughter's first birthday party. (Hers is Dec 28 & mine is Dec 27).

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Dec 30, 2007 - 06:04pm PT

As my father likes to say,"never let the truth get in the way of a good story."

deuce4

Big Wall climber

the Southwest

Dec 30, 2007 - 08:06pm PT

I like Henry's expression in this pic...

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Dec 30, 2007 - 08:12pm PT

I'd have been worried too - look at all the innocent bystanders aka drinks. All at risk of being spilled, or filled with broken glass. Maybe not a challenge for Henry, but us mere mortals think differently.

deuce4

Big Wall climber

the Southwest

Dec 30, 2007 - 08:22pm PT

Mighty, we were all so sh*tfaced that night, we probably wouldn't have noticed. Here's some more pics from that memorable evening (probably "memorable" thanks only to the photos that someone took):

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Dec 30, 2007 - 08:34pm PT

HH climbed a few years ago with my brother, in Squamish. He remarked "I'm climbing as well as I ever did. There's just more of me."

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Dec 31, 2007 - 01:51am PT

Nice shots John! I went casting about for the old Australia article in Ascent but can't seem to find it.

Too funny Anders.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Dec 31, 2007 - 11:07am PT

The guy in the blue shirt looks like Chris Bonnington.

deuce4

Big Wall climber

the Southwest

Dec 31, 2007 - 11:17am PT

Yep, that's Mr. Bonnington himself. After the North Face debacle, I got involved with a internet startup (Xdogs.com) through a mutual friend of Henry and mine (Hans Figi). The plan was to import BergHaus equipment to the US. Chris (and Leo) were Berghaus reps, while Henry and I were working for the startup. We went to Britain to seal the deal, which we did, but then the whole Internet start-up scene crashed spectacularly and the business failed. My compensation, a gazillion dot.net dollars worth of stock options, were suddenly worthless!

I was really impressed with Henry's salesmanship. Having worked as a Patagonia Rep for so long, he really knew how to work the crowd and sell an idea, concept, or product. A true professional.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 23, 2009 - 01:20am PT

Henry on the solo of Strand

http://home.comcast.net/~ed_hartouni/vid/Barber_solos_Strand.mov

pretty gripping, actually

thedogfather

climber

Midwest

Feb 23, 2009 - 08:02am PT

funny, I'm pretty sure that was cut from the DVD I made of that entire show a couple of years ago for the Taco Stand. I taped that off the original on TV and fairly early on you will see the footage interrupted by part of a baseball game where I was trying to skip all the commercials. I think the rest of that segment with his interaction with Pete Livesey is classic in showing the strong competitiveness climbers have toward each other.

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Feb 23, 2009 - 08:21am PT

Of course, there's the article in Climb! where Henry
goes up to solo Gorilla's Delight in Boulder Canyon--he get's up
to the crux which is a good long distance from the ground, which
has been described as 5.7 or so. . . ha! and the story says
'I probably would break a leg if I fell from here if I miss'. . .
or something to that effect. Those of us who've done that know
it'd be a mite more serious, sort of like 'you're gonna die'!
if you don't make that move. . .

Also, one of the prizes auctioned off at the AAC annual dinner was climbing in Britain with Hot Henry. . .but you'd have to
pick up his airfare over the pond. . .

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 23, 2009 - 09:53am PT

yes dogfather, the clips I've been posting up are from your video (I think I revived the "thans dogfather" thread recently...

hope you don't mind... thought it was time to get some of those great clips out there

thedogfather

climber

Midwest

Feb 23, 2009 - 10:41am PT

I certainly don't mind since they aren't "my" clips, I just taped them off of TV back in the day. I still think the entire segment with Henry and Pete going at it, the freak-out by Mr Harris on Dream of White Horses and the solo are some of the most compelling climbing footage I have seen.