What's the deal with Fish Crack?

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KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Sep 19, 2007 - 03:46pm PT
When I did Fish crack in '87(w/tcu's and sticky rubber)I had a hell of a time protecting the top without plugging the jams I wanted to use. After frustratingly fumbling with gear(resulting in a numb pointer finger)I finally got a good piece and went for it. I didn't lie back the crux so I don't know that sequence, but jamming it felt pretty secure. I don't recall endurance being an issue with the big stance before the crux. Based on my experience the 5.12- grade, which I think is fair, was more about placing good gear and thin technical jamming.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Sep 19, 2007 - 07:16pm PT
BVB said: "if someone scouts a line, then spends a lot of time cleaning it up (a lot of now-classic routes in teh lower merced required HEAVY vegitation removal)...

i thnk they should have a few months to send...at the least, as much time as it took to clean. seems fair, right?"

So, what's the backstory on VanBelle Syndrome and Vanbellodrome?
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