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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Mar 20, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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that's a cool story, I wasn't aware. Not too many folks hop onto Sentinel these days.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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Clean climbing bump...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 26, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
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Thank you again. Set straight, schooled, and mentored before breakfast. Yes, noon again. Sleeplessnessess.
I repay you with this coinage: "clamourless ascent" as in the Peter Haan classic style-fest, no fanfare, no medium, no brouhaha. Just serious fun.
He "Sal-oed." (Man, where's my coffee?)
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Huevon
Mountain climber
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TYeary,
I am joining this discussion on Bruce Carson very late but you had inquiry on route on Alpamayo, East Ridge. I was his partner on that ascent in 75. We were there as part of a 8 person team. We all got up the north ridge from our base camp on the NE side and were the 9th ascending party. Cleaned tons of stuff off the route on the way down. Week or so later, Bruce and I did the east ridge in 3 days / 2 nights. We believed we were the 2nd party on the route. Don't remember now who was first. Immediately following our departure from the Blanca, Bruce joined a team in the Pamirs on Trisul and the rest is history. That trip in Peru was the first time I had met Bruce. I found him to be one of the safest climbers I ever met and climbed with making Trisul all the more tragic.
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D-Rail
Trad climber
Calaveras
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Bump for Sentinel West Face!
Awesome history! Now I am even more inspired!
Does this route get climbed? Will it be cool when the valley floor is not? A1-A5 huh? That sounds interesting....
Does anyone have more info on this?
Daryl
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Huevon, Trisul is in the Indian Himalaya near Nanda Devi, not the Pamirs.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Bump for clean and bold!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
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Superchicken Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2016 - 02:38pm PT
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Vedy clean bump...
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 23, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
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I would be interested to hear from some of the old "clean" masters of the 70's about whoppers taken on clean protection. Any incidents stand out of huge leader falls on clean pro?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2017 - 11:27am PT
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This was the 80s but I took a fifty footer putting up the Central Scrutinizer and got held by a #3 and #4 RP with a 200 foot factor two fall if the little suckers didn't hold. Saint Roland was looking out for me that day.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2018 - 09:54am PT
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Hammerless style bump...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 20, 2018 - 11:15am PT
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hammerlessness bump
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!