Bruce Carson's hammerless solo of Sentinel West Face,1974

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bmacd

Trad climber

Beautiful British Columbia

Feb 2, 2010 - 12:45am PT

bump for clean aid climbing ...

lot's of good threads buried deeply in this place

another enjoyable read - thanks !

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2010 - 05:26pm PT

Super Chicken Bump!

TripL7

Trad climber

san diego

Jul 2, 2010 - 10:56pm PT

I am, for the most part, a better person and climber for having known Dave Anderson. We, a small group of climbers, affectionately called Dave "Andy" and it is how I will always remember him.

The picture of Dave I have at first mention or thought of his name, is him with his huge grin, twinkling eyes, and scraggly mop of blond hair making his way across the old Yose. Lodge parking lot. Occasionally wincing when his bare feet made contact with the jagged gravel, or perhaps it was a blister or painful arches from standing in aiders, for his first words to me that morning were "Dude, I just did a first ascent on the Captain...!"(Lost World VI/5.10/A3+) I hadn't seen him since the previous season, and we had much to talk and celebrate about.

I did about 4-5 first ascents in the Valley with Dave, all in the .10+ or harder range, primarily 2-3 pitches. Dave would always ask "What should we call them..." They were great climbs, but he decided to not include them in the "route notebook"! There was such a focus on new routes and getting your name in the guidebook, that a handful of the Seattle/Pacific NW boy's decided to just "Shine that scene!!"(F*#k that scene)and not document/record their new routes! They were all eventually redone and claimed by various individuals of that time period.

Dave gave me a firsthand account of their Rostrum climb. He focused mainly on the free climbing and was instrumental in freeing sections that had not yet gone free on the Rostrum.

I recall the first time I met Bruce Carson, at the base of El Cap. He and another guy had just retreated from about 2/3 or 3/4 of the way up the Muir Wall(I believe it was the Muir?)! And he simply shook his head and adamantly stated "No go, it won't go all clean!" as they passed us.

I remember reflecting on the amount of effort it must have taken to reach that high-point, and that I would have considered finishing the route conventionally since there was no reason not to, and it would not go otherwise. Evidently he had committed himself to a different drummer/purpose/cause.

One day after a pit stop at the Generator Crack, Dave stated that Bruce was a master on the hi-line/slackline, or whatever it was referred to at that time. And pointed to the cables that shot abruptly up from a large boulder 100+ ft. to the top of the tower overlooking the Merced R. And described how BC would nimbly walk up to the top of the cable, and then turn around and slide back down the cable, with the possibility of being cut in two(by hitting one of the lower cables)and certain death, should he fall.

Dave was a brilliant climber, OW Master, and human being! I have often wondered why no one has initiated a memorial thread for D.A!

Dave "Andy" Anderson was "One in a Million!"

R.I.P. Andy!!

mastadon

Trad climber

quaking has-been

Jul 2, 2010 - 11:24pm PT

I knew Dave and Bruce pretty well. Still miss 'em.....

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 11:37am PT

I only met Bruce once but Dave used to spend some time climbing and drying out down in Tucson often in the company of Todd Bibler and Katherine Freer. I really miss Dave too. He was set to become a first rate old codger and I couldn't wait to tangle with him in the second half. He had a smile like an alpine sunrise after a cold bivi, warm and grand.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2010 - 05:34pm PT

Classic Bump!

BooDawg

Social climber

Polynesian Paralysis

Sep 27, 2010 - 06:14pm PT

Steve, Thanks once again for your great postings and accompanying bumps. I wonder if Hennek has seen DR's account of their HD climb. I'll send him the link...

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2010 - 06:25pm PT

Since Galen and Doug were at odds over purpose and follow through, Dennis' observations would be fabulous! Especially the part about avoiding all the fixed crap and steppin' out on some prototype Cracknups at the crux!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2011 - 08:44pm PT

Bump for SuperChicken!$$$$

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jun 28, 2011 - 08:55pm PT

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/248864/Welcome-John-Stannard-to-ST

(Includes a fine photo by Rich Goldstone of John Stannard leading the expanding flake, ~ 1970.)

Wade Icey

Trad climber

www.alohashirtrescue.com

Jun 29, 2011 - 12:36pm PT

Palin/Bachman Bump

marty(r)

climber

beneath the valley of ultravegans

Jul 4, 2011 - 10:08pm PT

Steve wrote "Dave used to spend some time climbing and drying out down in Tucson often in the company of Todd Bibler and Katherine Freer."

Is that Catherine Freer of Freer Wilderness, the therapeutic wilderness/boarding school?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 11:00pm PT

Same Catherine Freer alright.

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

Jul 5, 2011 - 12:44am PT

Will that Pate-ism stick?

Grateful Grossman-has a ring to it, a mood and certainly a reference to another era. Only time will tell.

Steve has this amazing ability of searching, stealing, pulling and sometimes ripping stories from the archives and posting them in an oddly timely manner. We are so lucky as this encompasses a great deal of time and energy. Mimi must be one tolerant lady.

Thanks Steve for your time and effort to keep this forum alive and spontaneous.

I never met Bruce Carson, but like many ST encounters, after reading this posting, I feel I have a pulse on his life and times.

couchmaster

climber

pdx

Jul 5, 2011 - 04:44pm PT

Grateful to Grossman here too:

From climbing.com:

(Bruce) Carson died September 4, 1975, only 24, after falling through a cornice in the Indian Himalaya. In 1998, an avalanche broke Anderson’s femur while he backcountry-skied near Salt Lake City. His rescue helicopter crashed, killing all aboard.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2011 - 05:13pm PT

Thanks Guido!

Mimi is indeed a very patient partner!

Just passing along a little inspiration to anyone out there looking.

Bruce was the greatest clean wall climber of our time and I truly wish that he had stayed around long enough to really show us his stuff.

With his skills, Bruce would have gone on to rack up an impressive list of first clean and hammerless ascents. The array of clean climbing tools these days would blow his mind!