Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
couchmaster
climber
|
|
Rick A, the puffing on the rope ends describes the effect of battery acid on a rope to a T.
I too saw this effect in person, 1977. Rope fell apart under bodyweight rappelling. Kid weighed maybe 130-140 is all. We made a rope litter and carried the kid out after splinting the compound fracture of the Femur (thigh). He was fortunately unconscious.
This was before cell phones, remote area, there were no houses, phones or towns near. We had to just deal so we did our best.
We got him to the hospital stat. Survived, no complications. The fall should have killed him.
Sorry - didn't mean to drift too far off topic.
|
|
bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
Steve G,
I was on that rescue across from you. They used a C-130 or something with a huge floodlight to illuminate the face while Dale lowered down to Bob... quite eerie that night. They shined the light on the face of Half Dome a couple times and it lit the whole damn face as if it were a drive in theater! Incredible sight from where we were - must have been the same for you except you probably knew something was terribly wrong...
RIP Bob.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
|
Crazy story guys. Thanks for sharing.
With that background laid down, I'd like to hear more about the route named in Bob's honor. A training route for Uli Biaho? Sounds like a good tale. I bet those two experiences were a bit different. Wasn't Sports Illustrated or someone like that funding the expedition to U.B.?
Anyone hear from Largo?
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
I e-mailed him Jerry, to get some storied reportage on the memorial route; no response yet, maybe he is out of town.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
Ricky A. just e-mailed me - hadn't seen this thread till now. I'll try and crank out a few words on this incredible route sometime this weekend. Right now I'm totally booked.
The BLMB is IMHO one of the best and most novel walls in Yosemite. If it was on El Cap it would be as popular as the Salathea. It has features (like a gigantic angling dike) I've never seen before and spectacular positioning and exposure - that Watkins is ginormous. But sh#t was it hot in August.
More later.
JL
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
|
Hi John. Thanks for posting. This sounds great. I'm on the edge of my seat...
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
Always remember Bob from the rescue team in Tuolumne Meadows in the 70s. He was one of the best all around nice guys who ever lived and his untimely death was a real blow to the "spirit of the age". Remember also how he made us all feel like warriors out of Homer, making clear our links with an earlier Heroic age. RIP Bob.
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
JB-The “Carolina Moon” was amazing. It would light the face as the plane passed for less than a minute.During that time though, it was as if it were broad daylight. Graham and Richard Harrison were also on that rescue, if I recall correctly.
Steve-That must have been an amazing sight from across the valley on Halfdome. Interesting also that you were with US Representative , and likely next year to be Senator, Mark Udall.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
No finer political family ever graced public service. But for the bandwagon effect and that silly guitar jingle ("why not the best") Mo would have been president in place of Carter and the country would certainly be farther along. The family joke at the time was that the Secret Service was going to have their hands full since all six children were avid outdoors enthusiasts! A stellar picture of Brad and I on top of Fairview Dome hung on the wall in Mo's congressional office while he was able to serve. Mo was a giant in politics and a beacon of relief in the midst of a very backward and reactionary state. I learned most of my mountain skills from the Udalls early on. Great people!
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
Agreed. Brad and Jane are neighbors and we get out in the winter once in a while.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Say hello for me. I am long overdue on a trip to CO....
|
|
graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
|
|
Reading all this reminded me I had some photos of what we were hoping to be Bob Locke’s rescue.
First thing I want to say is Chris Falkenstein’s amazing effort in his descent and sprint to park headquarters set the pace for this effort. The only helicopter available that night on the few minutes notice was a small Bell 47 and not having much “useful load” we had to shuttle in pairs to get to the top of Mt. Watkins. This first photo gives you the feeling of the slope landing with only lanterns for markers. The pilot joked on my trip it was his first night flight but I think he did that on every leg to break the ice with his passengers. Must have done it a dozen times that night
This is a shot under the Carolina Moon
This was our ride home the next day.
There is really too much to say about this tragedy
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2007 - 01:15pm PT
|
Wow. This is turning into a time machine. Odd this story isn't better known. Aside from that SAR book, has it ever been printed? I'd never even heard the name Bob Locke, aside from seeing the route in the book for years.
CF frequents this site- Chris, I hope this isn't opening bad/troubling memories for you.
Peace,
JD
|
|
smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
|
|
Anyone know what pitch he fell on? I just did that climb a few months ago: there were a few heads up spots, and some tricky routefinding....Great route though.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2007 - 12:04am PT
|
Bump. Looking forward to Largo's story.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2007 - 12:23am PT
|
Tales of the Oiled Bone.........
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2007 - 10:06am PT
|
From John Moynier’s excellent Sierra backcountry skiing guidebook, which describes a 12,500 foot peak, near Mt. Humphreys:
“Mount Locke is not mentioned on any maps, but it has long been called Mount Locke in memory of Sierra skier and climber Bob Locke…In addition to fellow Yosemite climbers like Dale and Alan Bard, Chris Falkenstein, Werner Braun, and Walt Rosenthal, Bob-O made many daring first descents along the east side of the range.”
Would enjoy hearing any stories of Bob-O’s skiing exploits.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2007 - 05:59pm PT
|
Bump. STILL looking forward to Largo's story...
|
|
Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
|
Bump
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2007 - 11:29pm PT
|
I'd like to write that story sometime soon but I'm backlogged right now with a book and two articles. But someday . . .
The first ascent was sort of epic because it was in August (hot!).
JL
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!