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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
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GOclimb:
After that, we moved over to Book of Solemnity (5.10a). I led both pitches. I *barely*
managed to keep on the rock on P1. I had previously fallen while leading this pitch.
So it felt good to check that one off. It's really superb climbing. Sorry, no good
pics of that on my camera.
Well, I've got a few pictures of GO's lead yesterday and it was something to watch, thin
face in very slimy conditions (this looks like a crack pitch, but it's not). He stayed on the
rock just barely, which was more than I managed to do.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jun 29, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
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Woot Nice pic's :)
Keep'm coming guys you really are bringing back the memories for me.
If the weather turns a little sour on you after making the drive up, a good rainy day diversion is the beginning of the Beast. It stays dry unless it's been rainng a long time or it's coming down monsoon.
Actually the start to the Cathedral Roof is a good rainy day thrash as well.
~~~~~~~~
Glad to see that 'Nut Cracker' is cleaner and been given the .10a rating it deserves.
(it was another of those infamous Cathedral 5.9's)
Funny I miss read the captions at first and I thought the last shot was 'Book of Solemnity'. I was looking at it thinking ... "nah Chicken Delight, with 'Layton's Ascent' visible to the right.
Ok so I slugged a few more gulps of Jo' and caught up lol.
~~~~~~~~~
Thinking back too Humphrey's:
Larry ever do the P.Ross route 'Soul Survivor' ?
That's a good one.
One of my all time memorable days out, ever, was on Humphrey's.
It was mid February and I was going to go ice climbing with Kurt Winkler. (Is K.Winkler still around N.C area ?)
The weather however was not conducive to our plans. It was right in the middle of a February thaw. You know those crazy times when you get 50 degree days for 4-6 days straight and the Saco busts up and starts to move with crashing freight train noises.
That thaw almost took out the covered bridge in Conway at the south end of 'West side Road'.
Anyway, Kurt and I went down to Humphrey's and did Wiessner's in our DBL boots. That was a such a cool outing and one of my more memorable winter climbing days in N.H.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jun 29, 2008 - 05:50pm PT
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Passing thought:
Anybody ever do girdle traverses anymore such as 'King Crab' or 'The Big Plum' ?
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perswig
climber
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Jun 29, 2008 - 07:45pm PT
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Nice job, GO and Co. - the Book and! Nutcracker on such as dank day! Pretty brave - tricky balance and overcranked fingerlocks. Thanks for the pics. Dale
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L
climber
Eating sand on the shores of Malibu...
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Jun 29, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
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Aaaahhhhh! A GO/Chiloe TR...now yer talkin'!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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trundlebum:
Larry ever do the P.Ross route 'Soul Survivor' ?
Never got around to that one. I've done the more fashionable, less hard Robinson Crusoe
right next to it a couple or three times.
As for Wiessner's Route I did climb that way back before cams, towing some near-beginner
along on my one and only ascent. Last spring, Cowpoke and I did a climb right next to it,
George Hurley's Guides Route. I looked over at the long unprotected chimneys of Weissner's
and wondered, what was I thinking?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
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Since people are likin' this ... a few last shots from our Cathedral climbs yesterday.
GO leading the second pitch of Book of Solemnity.
Jen following the same pitch.
That top o' the climb feeling.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jun 29, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
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Good job and nice TR.
Not the best conditions this weekend for climbing in the NE.
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L
climber
Eating sand on the shores of Malibu...
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Jun 29, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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Real rock (even if slimy), good company and great smiles...makes up for weather any day, don't cha think? ;-)
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jun 29, 2008 - 08:44pm PT
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That's the perfect attitude L.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 30, 2008 - 08:50am PT
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L said: Real rock (even if slimy), good company and great smiles...makes up for weather any day, don't cha think? ;-)
Absolutely!
Perswig said: tricky balance and overcranked fingerlocks.
Bingo. You just exactly nailed the crux of each climb. I just did them, and I couldn't have said it as well myself!
Thanks for the kind words, folks.
Side note: Switch my helmet for a cowboy hat in that last pic, and I think I'd be a shoe-in prize for the Tarbuster-look-alike contest.
GO
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 30, 2008 - 09:20am PT
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If you really wanted the wet humid slimy experience you could have finished the day with the first pitch of Three Birches ;)
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 30, 2008 - 11:48am PT
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Three Birches? No thanks! God I hate that climb. Smooth-as-glass polished feet slab with your hand in a slime-filled crack, followed by 100 feet of nondescript climbing. The only good thing on it is the ankle-breaker mantle near the end of the last pitch.
GO
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perswig
climber
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Sep 21, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
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This thread has gotten way too forgotten (Jim - no cross-post from your daughter's Whitehorse trip? Shame.)
I think my first day back to N. Conway since skiing the snowfields and GoS in spring? Weather was iffy but showers held off and Troy and I did Wavelength for the first time and I took him up the Saigons (somehow P1 was way easier than I remember and P2 was harder; why is that?)
Watched a pair loaded with clanging hexes and BIG packs spend 20 minutes bogged down at Thin Air P1 anchor at 1430. We're hoping they weren't "gunning" for the top? May still be there.
Last time I climbed at Cathedral was like Chiloe and GOClimb's day - the Book, in August, 85F+, humid; being a chalkless climber, needless to say it sucked. Today - MUCH nicer.
NE climbers - get some now. It's damn near perfect.
Dale
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Sep 22, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
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A perfect weekend at the Gunks.
Beatle Brow Bulge
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perswig
climber
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Sep 22, 2008 - 10:33pm PT
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Ahhh. Nice.
Colors starting to change down there yet? Didn't notice much in NH and what's started here at home is fading, not coming out bright so far this year.
Thanks for the NE bump.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 08:18am PT
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perswig, divad & all ... could be we need a new Gunks thread for the fall, eh?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Drip dry Bump!
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perswig
climber
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Mar 18, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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Steve bumped the first thread - might as well push it a bit further...
A showery morn made for a short day in Acadia today.
Gargoyle 5.8.
Beautiful spring afternoon.
Dale
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
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Nice, Dale, glad you got out. We worked through the day
here, but went out for burgers, beer & watching the stars
come out on our patio. I can't recall such a summer-like
March day here.
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