Northeastern Edition TRs

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GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 5, 2007 - 02:57pm PT
Hey Tradchick, glad you got on it! How'd you like it? Do the half-moon offwidth or the quarter-moon variation?

Looks dry - that's nice!

Larry, the gear on Le Teton is definitely good. Takes a little work, but you can plug a piece, and then downclimb to a full no-hands rest.

GO
perswig

climber
Sep 5, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
Hey, tradchick. That wasn't you and your Cat climbing with doubles at Square Ledge Saturday, was it? Came and went quiet-like around mid-day? I took my pseudo-brother-in-law out for his second day climbing ever and had a stellar day dodging and weaving around the slowish 2 other pairs out there on the slab, and the Arete was the icing on the cake. That 'chimney' was pretty fun, too. I laughed out loud after getting to the chockstone exit and realizing I had no gear in. What a great little cliff. Dale
tradchick

Trad climber
White Mountains
Sep 6, 2007 - 08:31am PT
Dale: Yep, that was the cat and I trying to be stealth like at Square Ledge, lol! I am working on my leading and thought we'd avoid the traffic jam on Thin Air at Cathedral. Great little cliff and hard to beat the view!

GO: We bailed off after the 3rd pitch. Had a dumb spell and didn't bring any water with us and forgot our "all day shoes" so had some hurtin' feet. We're headed back next weekend to finish it. Gotta say it's my new favorite climb, love the 2nd pitch! Wild!!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 6, 2007 - 11:56am PT
Tradchick: D'oh! Oh well, next time. That move getting to the belay ledge where you took the picture is funky, huh? My partner led it, and didn't see the sequence right, so had to aid through it! No sweat, though, seeing as how there's already mandatory A0 on the pitch. :)

And I won't say any more about it, but the sequence to start the next pitch (that you haven't done) is pretty wild, too!!!

Have fun!

GO
tradchick

Trad climber
White Mountains
Sep 6, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
GO: Yeah, duh, no food, no water, wrong shoes! Guess you could say we underestimated the sun...it was a hot day for Cannon.

The move to that belay ledge is funky and not straightforward. It was Tom's 3rd time leading Vertigo so he knew to go out on the arete and then back to get up to the ledge. I paid close attention!

He couldn't remember what the sequence is to start the next pitch. Is it moving back out over the arete to the right?

It was my first time doing a pendulum too and I was kinda uptight prior to it but once I let go, woooohooo! I can't wait to go back!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 7, 2007 - 02:24pm PT
You sure you want to be told the sequence, or do you want to figure it out yourselves?

GO
tradchick

Trad climber
White Mountains
Sep 7, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
I'd want to know if I was leading it but no doubt Tomcat will figure it out. He's good at those cryptic moves too.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 7, 2007 - 04:40pm PT
Good for him! Well, you both have this to look forward to:


And to prove that it's not too hard:

GO
tradchick

Trad climber
White Mountains
Sep 8, 2007 - 11:10am PT
Tomcat says we'll be doing the crescent moon and toproping the ow.
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Sep 8, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
Hmm. I think I hosed myself by doing the Half Moon left side in.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2007 - 11:56am PT
Tomcat says we'll be doing the crescent moon and toproping the ow.

Don't fear it, it's fun and as GO demonstrates, would be tough to fall out of.
The difficulties have been greatly exaggerated by latter-day Northeasterners who never saw a wide crack before.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Sep 9, 2007 - 06:15pm PT
Fun thread, nice pictures. Thanks for posting.
Zander
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Sep 9, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
Cool thread.

Say, Is there any climbing near Portland Maine? I'll be there on business late next week, actually, up at Lake Sebago, and will have Sunday-Monday free. Need something to do!

-Jerry
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2007 - 08:59am PT
Wootles knows all about Portland. You might send him an e-mail if he doesn't check in here.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
Following TK's Montucky example, I'll venture another climbing-related post from the weekend.

GOclimb pauses and thinks before going for it, on his onsight of Intimidation's intimidating first pitch.

GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 11, 2007 - 12:09pm PT
Nice pic, Chiloe! That next move was definitely made harder by the two nuts I girth hitched together to take up all the available space for your hands!

Great first pitch, great route! By the way, that third pitch is rated 5.10 in the latest guidebook. So extra kudos on going back and nailing it after 20 years. Good thing you waited, otherwise you'd have only climbed 5.9!

Cheers,

GO
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 11, 2007 - 12:12pm PT
Good stuff in this here thread...

That last route looks sweet!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
That next move was definitely made harder by the two nuts I girth hitched together to take up all the available space for your hands!

Yup, it was definitely all your fault! I didn't really wake up that day until I got above the ball-nut in the corner on P3, and by then the climb was more than half over.

Sorry you & Jen got rained out on Sunday. Saturday looks nice enough in the pictures to forget how godawful steamy it was, until the sun left us.

Tree branch in this picture removes any possible drama from the view across that "5.8 R" traverse on P2. You get a sense for how heavy the air was, though.

GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Sep 17, 2007 - 01:36pm PT
Just to prove that I didn't rope-solo Intimidation, here's Chiloe boldly leading pitch 3.

Start of the pitch:

At the crux, and still not intimidated!

And for those of you (Chiloe, tradchick, others?) interested in Le Teton, it turns out I do have a pic or two of me on it. This one shows that there *is* in fact decent gear:

GO
tradchick

Trad climber
White Mountains
Sep 17, 2007 - 02:40pm PT
GO: Nice shots from Intimidation and Le Teton. Tomcat and I usually take a run down to the Gunks in November while waiting for the ice. Will have to add Le Teton to the list.
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