Golden Age Accidents?

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Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
Today I was talking to someone about the tragic history of the Eiger's North Face in the context of Heinrich Harrers The White Spider. This evening I was thinking that in the early history of Yosemite climbing, I can't think of a single death or tragic occurance. Apparently, the men were all bold heros, establishing precedents at ever higher levels without a single mistake. Salathé, Axe Nelson, Harding, Robbins, Pratt, Kor, Frost, on and on. Am I wrong, or did all the heros survive the Golden Age unscathed? Why is it that these men, even while establishing new techniques and entering increasingly more "impossible" terrain suffered no harm, but people in later years are hurt and even killed on subsequent ascents of what are now "trade routes" at a surprisingly frequent occurance?
wildone

climber
Where you want to be
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:15pm PT
Maybe the heroes survived, but many would-be heroes did not. What about the bodies stuck in the Lost Arrow chimney?
WBraun

climber
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
There's nobody in there.

And those guys survived because providence protected them.

Without divine protection you are HOSED.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
RE:
" I can't think of a single death or tragic occurance"

the only one that comes to mind is Jim Madsen.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:35pm PT
What about the Anchors Away dudes...
WBraun

climber
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
Not dudes only one guy, Tim H.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
What's the story? Haven't heard it.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:42pm PT
single bolt rap anchor - right Werner?
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
The guy with the Plaque on Conness? (Goodrich?)


Google style edit;
Don Goodrich, June 12, 1959 rockfall/leader fall Mt Conness
Mimi

climber
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:48pm PT
Jim Baldwin of Dihedral and Grand Wall fame.
WBraun

climber
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
No not single rap bolt anchor.

Tim Harrison would lead pitches by backing up his placements. Kind off weird I thought. He was slightly paranoid.

So .... his idea was to place the bolt as deep in the hole as possible. Just enough thread remaining for the hanger and nut.

Now at the apron it's low angle and they lowered off that single bolt to come back another day.

Well that another day Tim jumared up on that single bolt and the nut came off. When he got to the bolt the hanger popped off the threads and the rest is history.
Lost Arrow

Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
Mark Powell - Distracted Climbing caused by female. Dingus type injury. Very Sad.

LA
Mimi

climber
Sep 1, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
Bummer of a needless mistake (on Anchors Away).
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2007 - 12:04am PT
Were these "Golden Age" though, or after?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Sep 2, 2007 - 12:09am PT
after.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 2, 2007 - 12:17am PT
Well, as climbers get older and more senile I think you are going to see lots more golden age accidents.





(even if its only because they're not wearing Depends,)
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2007 - 12:20am PT
Nice Ron.


So was Tim the first climbing death in the Valley? What year was that?

If Harding/Rowell (S.Face .5Dome) were the first technical big wall rescue (ala Robbins), were there previous accidents? Seems like perhaps this part of Yosemite's history has been glossed over by all the heroism, OR, there just wasn't any history in this department. ?
WBraun

climber
Sep 2, 2007 - 01:08am PT
Two guys died?

Sh'it I didn't know that?

I went to camp that night and everyone was only talking Tim H

Gota go ask Dill.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Sep 2, 2007 - 01:11am PT
Tom Kimbrough was on the rescue when Madsen died - he related the story well.
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Sep 2, 2007 - 11:37am PT
I remember Kevin's version of the AW story

Peter Barton was another and the is bummer I know there were more too.
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