TR : East Buttress El Capitan (July 27 - 29, 2007)

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Messages 21 - 38 of total 38 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ThomasKeefer

Trad climber
Between Tuscano and Liguria, Italia
Aug 28, 2007 - 09:19am PT
You did not manage to find a pair of brown sunglasses at the top of the route, did you. I lost them two years ago and just now remembered that despire my friend Michael specifically telling me not to leave my glasses "laying there", I did. THe only defense was that he told me that before I had tied my shoes to start the decent and so I had already forgotten.
Great TR!!!
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Aug 28, 2007 - 09:58am PT
Willi and the Slim Fox would be proud ...
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Aug 28, 2007 - 10:07am PT
Um...

Fatal flaw in this TR is... No Photos!

A 2 night epic in EBOFC... Now thats a story....But I'm still very simple minded, so I need a photo or 2.
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Aug 28, 2007 - 10:32am PT
No hero shots?

Nice one, Scott.

Steve
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2010 - 01:23am PT
Bada-bump! I was happy to be reminded of this little adventure by this link:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1024035/List-Of-Links-To-Historical-Threads

Now I know I have pics of that trip... lessee if I can dig them up.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2010 - 01:45am PT
I've had a dry spell lately in the climbing department, time to recycle the oldies to keep that feeling alive...

The rack:
[Click to View Linked Image]

The mandatory stop @ Taqueria Agave:
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The blue monster:
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The fate of the blue monster:
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The 5.9 chimney pitch:
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Starting the 5.6 arete pitch:
[Click to View Linked Image]

And almost finishing it:
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Self-portrait near the same spot as Bruce in the previous picture:
[Click to View Linked Image]

Posing on the exposed perch after the roof, before the two 5.9 parts:
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[Click to View Linked Image]

Looking up at the 5.9 traversing crack and the 5.9OW:
[Click to View Linked Image]

And the view from above (it kinda seems like the wheels are starting to come off here... I remember the butt-sludge came shortly after this):
[Click to View Linked Image]

Can you figure out this cluster? I sure can't:
[Click to View Linked Image]

More posing. Don't forget your camera on this route:
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Yo suckafish, why are you laying down already?
[Click to View Linked Image]

This doesn't quite look like the way we're supposed to go...
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And this is the result. Note the absence of the blue monster for night #2:
[Click to View Linked Image]

And the tattage at the rap anchors the next morning:
[Click to View Linked Image]

The line viewed in the morning after glory:
[Click to View Linked Image]

Parents, keep your kids away from climbers. They are creepy and dangerous.
[Click to View Linked Image]

[Click to View Linked Image]

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[Click to View Linked Image]
Technogeekery

Trad climber
Tokyo, Japan
Oct 12, 2010 - 12:51am PT
Nice TR & some good pics, thanks for posting. What incredible views from that climb...
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
Bump! (I would have moved the pics to near the text, but there are no edit buttons on the old posts)

Whenever Chris made the Trip Report feature here on ST, I forgot about getting this one converted and it fell off my radar. I just stumbled across it and re-read it at laughed at myself. I was an edgier writer then. And maybe more willing to throw my partner under the buss in the name of humor!

FYI "Bruce" in this story is not the same "le_bruce" that most of my reports of recent vintage are with. Old Bruce if you are out there lurking, hit me up! Where are you these days? I hope all is well with you.

Edit: I don't know if it makes it more or less pathetic, but on a prior trip I had done it in 6 hours swinging leads with a partner who was a stronger climber than me. Go figure!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 7, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
Ha ha ha!! Hoh man, how did I miss this one?

Makes my ascent, -7th party of the day, bike helmet because I left my real helmet on the predawn roof of my car, with the coffee, basting sun all day, bottom of the rappels at dusk, and back to a catered vegetarian dinner- last fall, seem pedestrian!

Thanks Scott!
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Sep 7, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
Thanks for bumping this one! Missed it back then. One of the best-written TRs here. Nicely done (the writing, I mean!). Give us more!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Sep 9, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
Man alive, Scott, I'd heard you tell this one on the drive up the 120 but had never seen the written account. Lurid, man, lurid! Sounds more heinous than our first time on Hawkman's.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Sep 9, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
Excellent.

I have bivied on that route as well. My partner had almost no experience and wanted to bivy. It was great. I highly recommend it. There is a ledge up there that is HUGE.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Sep 9, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
missed this first time round-- like the bivy pix
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 10, 2012 - 01:15am PT
Nutjob, goodjob!!!

I especially liked your simile "lips cracked like the heels of a fat person who wears open sandals way too much." Relating here.
Another pedestrian route IMO, yet another epic on it.
Kudos on a good, honest, self-examining TR. Hope the pix are worthy of the text. Your daughter's going to love showing this to her kiddies in the future, you bet.
Trad rocks!
MFM
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Apr 15, 2019 - 10:15pm PT
Bump for another fun memory, and a report relying on words more than pictures.
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Apr 15, 2019 - 10:47pm PT
Classic TR! Made me laugh! And one of the few routes I found myself totally lost on half way up :)
Zay

climber
Monterey, Ca
Apr 16, 2019 - 11:58am PT
NutAgain!,

Thank you so much for bumping this; the kind of content I praise supertopo for.

I hope ST figures out some sh#t and doesnt really die :(

Theres so much good content that would be absolutelt tragic loss to the climbing world if let to fade.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Apr 16, 2019 - 01:43pm PT
I missed this first two times around. What a lovely telling. Thanks.
My own journey on that was tough for me. The 7th pitch was sewn up tight!

Thanks again,

DR
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