Jello's long-lost route?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 77 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
Who's Barb, Steve?
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
Actually, looking back at the first half of the list, the reward probably needs to be increased to $10,000, at least.

So, it's $10,000 to the first person to do all fifty and provide photos.

-Jello
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:08pm PT
10 more good ones:

31- Eastern start to the North Ridge of Mt Stewart, Cascades with Mark Twight. About 7 new pitches connecting to the upper half of the classic North Ridge, IV, 5.11, 1986.

32- Central Pillar of Crestone Peak, CO with Malcom Daly. Mostly simul-climed, III, 5.10, 1986?

33- Third Buttress Direct, Hallet's Peak CO with Teri Ebel. 8 pitches, III, 5.9, 1994.

34-Teri's Route on the east triangle of McHenry's Peak, rmnp, co WITH tERI eBEL. 8 PITCHES, iii, 5.11, 1994.

35- The Wisdom, Eldorado Canyon with John Bachar. My only climb with the master, but a decent one. 3 pitches, 11+, 1978?

36- Three Old Farts Young At Heart, Eldorado Canyon with Mike Weis and Jim Donini. We climbed in 3 pitches with no bolts. Today it's usually done in 2 pitches and the upper pitch has some bolts. 3 pitches, 5.10 R (on the first ascent), 1977?

37- Inner Space, Eldorado Canyon with John Baldwin. 3 pitches total, only 1 new, II, 510a R, 1977.

38- S-Crack Direct, LCC Utah with George Lowe. 8 pitches total, IV (when you do the S-Crack start) 5.9+, 1967.

39- Tom Thumb Center Route, Lone Peak Cirque with George Lowe. 4 pitches, II, 5.9, 1970?

40- Lowe Route, Qustion Mark Wall, Lone Peak Cirque with George Lowe. 3 pitches, II, 5.8, 1968?

Final 10 to come.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
OK, 10 more and then we'll stop. The selection process has become quite random, at this point, but they're all good routes, each with its' own character.

41- Let's put Seamstress Corner here. Telluride Colorado with Tim Kudo. 6 pitche, III, 11c/d R, 1980?

42- Master of Ceremonies, Ophir Wall, Telluride with Mark Wilford. 5 pitches, III, 5.11, 1984.

43- East Face Wedge, Elingwood Peak CO, solo. 1,500', III, 5.10, 1982?

44- Western Front, South Face of London Spire, northern Utah, solo. 1000', 5.8? 1967.

45- North Face Center, London Spire with Gavin Morris. About 15 pitches, III, 5.9, 1967.

46- West Face of Twin Sister, City of Rocks with? 5 pitches, III, 5.9+, 1968?

47- Southwest Buttress of Steinfels Dome, City of rocks with Dave Lowe. 6 or 7 pitches, III, 5.9 R, 1967.

48- Road Warrior, Mt Evans, CO with Dan Hare. We did 2 good pitches to start on the lower cliff band, then the 3 or 4 main pitches of the route. III, 5.10+, 1984?

49- Pointed Pillar, Mt Isabel, Indian Peaks, CO with Steve Dieckoff. 6 pitches, III, 5.10, 1984?

50- Arch Corner, East Face Mt Ogden, Utah with Bruce Roghaar. 5 pitches all protected with machine nuts threaded with rope or slings. II, 5.8, 1967.

FINISHED!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:45pm PT
Jeff, is there a story about how Seamstress Corner got it's name?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
I was referring to The Barb on Spearhead. I recall you writing an FFA story about it in Vertigo Games. Great list by the way!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 27, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
Ray, I was originally going to call it Cornercopia, but I had recently met Janie Hannigan, who I married a couple of years later. Janie was lead seamstress for the old Camp 5 company in Telluride. The name changed to Seamstress Corner in honor of Janie and her co-workers.

Steve, although there was a photo in the book of me free-climbing the Barb, I wasn't the first to do so. I don't think I had a story in the book, either - just the picture.

-Jello
Broken

climber
Texas
Aug 27, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
This thread is an example of Supertopo (and the internet) at its best.

Resurrected histories and personal connections combined with stories and photos, both old and new...

And then an off-the-cuff comment (Jello's "this is one of my 50 best...") sparks a wealth of new information.

Great thread, great world.

(((though I'm still peeved that Tristan, my old partner, didn't head back up there after his buddy Dave ripped that pin!)))
GB

Trad climber
N. Lake Tahoe, CA / Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 27, 2007 - 05:41pm PT
Jello, didn't you do the Macabre Roof above Ogden?
Where does that thing rank?
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 29, 2007 - 07:12pm PT
GB- It was my brother, Greg that free-climbed Macabre Roof. I did the first ascent on aid, then Greg free climbed it the next weekend. I think it has only been led free twice. Once by Greg back in 1967, and then again by the late, great Ogden climber, Ken Gygi, who told me it is about 12c, R. Greg says it's not his most difficult climb from that era.

I used to think I was an absolutely terrible free climber when I was a teenager, because Greg was so much better. I didn't realize until later that he was climbing at a world standard for the day.

-JelloBro
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 1, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
Rats! No story, eh? Well, here's that FineWoolyJelloShot I was thinking about (Randall, Vertigo Games, 1983).


Jello, I've had a chance to look over your Nifty Fifty more closely. You are one prolific, as well as wild and crazy, sportsman, Sahib! Way impressive.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Sep 2, 2007 - 10:42pm PT
That photo brings back memories of climbing in the park during that era, Steve. EB's, a swami belt, wool cap and sweater and a handful of nuts. Much fun and very uncomplicated. My memories resemble that photo.

-MistyJello

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 29, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
hey there all... say, this is great posted stuff here...

say, jello, do you have a photo book of any of this stuff... it sure would make a great "history" info book for your family and loved ones to share over the coffee table...

way, to go... it would sure take a long time to go and look up every "mountain" for a picture in regards to each mountain-site... wow...

god bless you with adventure and thanks for the GREAT share...
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 29, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
Decades of endless discussion on ethics with endless attempts to somehow cast "clean climbing" as little more than a brief [and all to inconvienent] urban legend - but then one of the real deals spoils the fun by piping up and saying it all so succinctly, and almost in passing at that...

"...we agreed that it would be onsight, nuts where possible, fixed pins where necessary, and bolts only if they were absolutely necessary, all placed on lead without aid."

Always a pleasure to hear these ancient myths from one of the "legends" who just won't pass from the scene quietly...
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Oct 29, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
Holy Sh#t Jeff...

all I can say is

WOW!!!!!!!!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 30, 2007 - 01:13am PT
hey, there...now, nee bee, thanks for suggesting...

In fact I am working on a book of stories and pics, thanks, and ST keeps reminding me to keep persuing it.

Hope you're well!

-AllTheBestJello
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 30, 2007 - 03:35am PT
hey there jello... wellllllll-o, we'll have to just send this ol' post up to a bump, so you'll get a few more reminders...

thanks for the swell-o news... keep up the good book work... and a hearty god bless, to your earnest pursuit...

from 'ol neebee, you see... :)
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Oct 30, 2007 - 11:05am PT
Wow, Jeff! I can't believe the NE of Mt Gould is on that top 10. Having lived within a few miles of that beautiful choss pile all my life, I can't say it has beckoned me for a repeat. Please, do tell more, any tidbits at all. Would one likely find historic pins & such along the way? As far as I know it has never received a 3rd ascent.

Arne Boveng-iónlyski
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 30, 2007 - 11:07am PT
somellojello wrote;

Jack Tackle and Alex Lowe said they found a lot of 5.11 when they made the second ascent, but they must have gotten off-route.

Yeah that must be it. Those guys sucked at route finding.



Or... Like Larry Dahlke before him Jello didn't realize just how hard his climbs were or how great he was.


Only 10 Grand for that tick list! Come on jello! Man what a tight wad. Were not talking the Fifty Crowded Climbs here now are we? Anyone pulling of that list would spend at least 5Gs just on Ibuprofin.


You are my hero toohumblejello.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Oct 30, 2007 - 11:46am PT
Also, Jeff, Steve, anybody know where to purchase that photo from Vertigo in high quality?
Arne Boveng-iónlyski
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