Jello's long-lost route?

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Messages 1 - 77 of total 77 in this topic
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 22, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/ames_wall/106012247
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 22, 2007 - 03:33pm PT
Somewhere in the old mags from way back when there is a picture of Tim Kudos following one of the pitches on that route.

It has been on my wish list for a long long time.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 22, 2007 - 07:22pm PT

Perfect photo to go with the story!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 23, 2007 - 01:18am PT
Well now there's a brave and honest accounting of a good attempt on what really is a special route (Seamstress Corner on Ames Wall). I'm impressed by the author's dedication to respect the spirit of the first ascent. When Tim and I did the climb, we agreed that it would be onsight, nuts where possible, fixed pins where necessary, and bolts only if they were absolutely necessary, all placed on lead without aid.

I think I ended up leading all the pitches, with no falls or hanging. I originally thought the crux was 5.12, but the second ascent thought maybe 11c or d. There were five or six pitches, though, and I think the climb is at least 500' high, not 400'. I have pictures somewhere, and will drag them out when I have time.

Good memories of a good climb with a good partner with whom I shared only a few adventures and have lost touch. Anyone have word of Tim?

-NostalgicJello
paganmonkeyboy

Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
Aug 23, 2007 - 01:29am PT
sweet !
that belay shot is a pucker-er too...that alien looks like the lobe is creepin out to me...
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 23, 2007 - 01:39am PT
We didn't have aliens back then, Monkey. Wired nuts worked well, though.

-Pre-CambrianJello
coward

Trad climber
Boulder, Wyoming
Aug 23, 2007 - 10:24am PT
I'm so glad to get the first-hand info on how the route was established. Thanks, Jello, for responding. My partner and I wondered about whether it was put up with bits of aid or whether those on the FA just started climbing and hung in there, with a straight set of nuts and few pins, hammer dangling. Never having put up an FA myself, I really had no idea.
Now that I know, I am SHOCKED to find out that the route was put up free w/ no falls! Now that is impressive...pounding pitons from pumpy stances. That must have been grim duty. Modern gear surely took a bit of the spice out of the route, for us!

I corrected my description's length and number of pitches. I know lots of people overstate the length of Ames, some even calling it 600 feet tall - but when rapping off of Ames Ice Hose, it's an even 400. But I forgot that Seamstress goes up the biggest and steepest section of the wall, so it is definitely a considerably longer route!

At the base of the route, I found an old straight-sided nut dangling from a tree with a junk biner. I kept this little piece of memorabilia to remind me of the route when we retreated.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 23, 2007 - 11:57am PT
Hi there, (not a) Coward. I think I recall Tim hanging or falling a couple of times, so our ascent was not without falls. I don't remember the pins being too hard to place, but a couple of the bolts were desperate to get in.

The bolt after the right-ward traverse that held your partner's last fall was especially hard to drill without fully hanging, since the wall overhangs at that point. I got a tiny RP in and had Tim give me just enough tension to keep from falling off, but I supported almost all my weight stemming between two footholds. It was the best I could do, but it was a small taint in an otherwise clean climb, for me.

It would be nice if a team went up to restore the climb. The pins could be tested and replaced if need be, on lead, and the second should pull those old 1/4" bolts and replace them with modern stainless 3/8" gear - there's only a few of them. This would maintain the character of the route without it becoming foolish.

I'm happy you've unearthed this old classic of a bygone era. It deserves to be climbed often.

Best to you, Tristan. Thanks for keeping the faith.

-Jello

EDIT: THAT is a classic photo of your partner with the pin that pulled!
coward

Trad climber
Boulder, Wyoming
Aug 23, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
Jello,

As for Tim, he looked like he was doing fine the last time I saw him. I think he's still in Telluride...married...other than that I don't know. He's totally unassuming, but I saw his name many times listed as part of an FA party in guidebooks on dream climbs in Ophir and elsewhere in the area. I didn't get to talk to him about the route, as I only met him in passing, but I was psyched to meet such a nice guy.

Take care,
T
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Aug 25, 2007 - 01:06pm PT
Ran across this just by sheer happenstance...sort of bizzare how coincidental life is some times.
Anyways, here's the original brief announcement of the route in Climbing Mag.



Never met Tim, but I've climbed some of his routes in the Superstition Mountains, and I'd guess he was pretty good on questionable rock.
Mimi

climber
Aug 25, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
Here you go, Jello. This should still be good. Saw Tim after a very long time in Canyonlands awhile back. He was doing great with a very nice gal.

GenerallyNostalgicMimi

slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Aug 25, 2007 - 01:23pm PT
Ahhh, Timmy. "The Little Emperor."

Though I haven't met up with him in a few years, he's still Good-to-go, living in Placerville CO (just downhill from T-ride) with his beautiful wife Laura.

Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 01:00am PT
Thanks for the tips on Tim - Coward, Monkey, Mimi and Slob. It does occur to me that I've seen him a few times over the years. In fact I think I saw him at Charlie and Christine's memorial in Telluride last winter, very briefly among hundreds of people. Funny how we meet up with some fine people (like Tim), share a good climb or two, then drift away, while with others we form long-term partnerships.

I'd say Seamstress Corner with Tim would be among the top 50 or so of my best first ascents of a free rock climb - for the experience we shared and the quality, character and uniqueness of the climbing.

-Jello
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 26, 2007 - 11:32am PT
Top 50!
I wonder what the rest of the iceberg looks like...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 26, 2007 - 03:52pm PT
Yeah, care to chip off a wee bit to keep me whisky chilled. Jello's long lost Nifty Fifty, out with it!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
Ok, this could take a little time to figure out, but might be fun. Lemme start with the top ten, working down:

1- Slovenian Route on Trango Tower with Catherine Destivelle. Although the route had been free-climbed once before, we added a new 9-pitch start that allows me to include it in a list of first ascents. About 30 pitches, VI, 11d or 12a, 1990.

2- Wind, Sand and Stars, Kolob Canyons, Zion with Steve Petro and Lisa Gnade. Catherine Destivelle and I made the first ascent of this beautiful line using some aid the year before, but it was obvious that it could be free-climbed, so I returned with Lisa and Steve. 11 pitches, 12c, 1991.

3- The East Face of Squaretop, Wind Rivers, with Renatto Casorotto. 15 pitches, V, 5.11, 1984.

4- The North Pillar of Putscanturpa Norte, Peru, solo. about 2,000' overall length, V, 5.10, 1983.

5- The West Pillar of Squaretop, Winds, with Greg Lowe and Kent Christensen. About 15 pitches, V, 5.10, 1974.

6- The Northeast Face of Mt Gould, Glacier National Park with Mike Weis. 1,000' of soloing up to 5.8, then about 15 pitches up to 5.10, grade V, 1973. Jack Tackle and Alex Lowe said they found a lot of 5.11 when they made the second ascent, but they must have gotten off-route.

7- The North Face of Warbonnet Peak, Sawtooth Mtns, Idaho with Kevin Swigert. About 10 pithes, IV, 12a, 1980?

8- Risky Business, Rocky Mtn Nat'l Park with Mark Wilford. 9 pitches, no bolts 11c/d, R, 1984. Hard to follow the line now as a bolted route has appeared on top of it.

9- Black Elk, Warbonnet Peak, Winds with Charlie Fowler. about 10 pitches, IV, 11a, 1979.

10- Feather Buttress, Warbonnet Peak, Winds with Charlie Fowler. About 10 pitches, IV, 10+. 1979.
Ouch!

climber
Aug 26, 2007 - 07:32pm PT
Is there a reward being offered for finding Jello's Lost Route?
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
Here's ten more, some of which have been lost for decades:

11- Simpleton's Pillar, North Face of the Grand Teton, solo. About 2,000', IV, rated 5.9 at the time but probably 5.10, 1972.

12- North Rib of Mt, Slesse, North Cascades with Rob Kiesel. 27 pitches, V, 5.9, 1972.

13- West Face of the Watchman, Zion with Mike Weis. 14 pitches, IV, 5,10 with a 5-foot pendulum, 1972.

14-East Face Center of Wheeler Peak, Nevada with Bruce Roghaar. about 15 pitches, rated III, 5.8 at the time, but probably IV, 5.9, 1970. Good training for the Canadian Rockies.

15- East Face Crescent of Wheeler Peak, Nevada with Greg Lowe. About 15 pitches, IV, 5.9+, 1970. 3-1/2 hours on the first ascent!

16- Sandblaster, Mt Spry, Zion with Mark Wilford. 7 pitches, III, 5.11, 1987.

17- North Face Wetterhorn Peak, Colo with Paul Hogan. 7 pitches, 5.8, 1972.

18- Icarus, Sundance Buttress, Lumpy ridge with Sandy East. 6 pitches, III, 11c/d, 1980.

19- New Music, The Book, Lumpy Ridge with Malcolm Daly. 5 pitches, III, 11c, R, 1986.

20- Wunch's Dihedral, Cynical Pinnacle Colorado with Paul Sibley. Roger Briggs and I both free climbed the final bolt ladder at about the same time. Hard to know who did it first. Great finish to a great climb, though. 4 pitches, III, 11c, 1976.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 08:20pm PT
Here's 10 little gemstones (some definitely hard to find), for a change of pace:

21- Little Finger (aka Penis Rock), Hartman Rocks, CO with Paul Hogan. 40', 5.10 R, 1972. Originally done with one bolt, 4 more have since been added, ruining the opportunity for adventure on a tiny granite tower.

22- Surealistic Pillar Direct, Lover's Leap with Jean Vives. 75 feet, 10a, 1968.

23- Fear of Flying, Enchanted Rock, Texas, with students during a seminar. 80', 10c, 1976.

24- The Ross Route, LCC Utah, with Larry Ross. 1 pitch with a short crux that was led unprotected. A bolt was added later. Rated 11a today, rated 5.9+ when we did it in 1968.

25- Schoolroom Corner on the Schoolroom cliffs, Ogden Utah with Larry Ross. 1 pitch, 5.10, 1967.

26- North Face of the Stiletto, South st Vrain Canyon, CO, with Mark Wilford. 1 pitch, 12c? 1984.

27- Slow Children Playing, South St Vrain with Mark Wilford. 75', 10d, 1984.

28- SE Corner of Little Twin Owls with Randy Joseph? 75', 5.11 R/X, 1985?

29- Sunglow Crack, Bicknell Utah, with John Ruger. 150", 10+/11, 1974.

30- Sugar Fingers on the "Sugar Cube" near Bluff, Utah with Teri Ebel. 40', 11a. The block forming the left half of the crack has since fallen off, so this sweet little crack is no more.

Next we'll go back to longer climbs.

EDIT: Hey, Ouch, that's a good idea! I'll give a reward of $5,000 to the first person to do all 50 climbs I post here. There must be photo documentation, and I must be granted the right to use the photos. The offwidth on the front side of the Sugar Cube can be substituted for the climb that fell off. Don't hassle me for a lot of beta, though - do your homework.

-Jello


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 26, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
What, no Barb??????
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
Who's Barb, Steve?
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
Actually, looking back at the first half of the list, the reward probably needs to be increased to $10,000, at least.

So, it's $10,000 to the first person to do all fifty and provide photos.

-Jello
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:08pm PT
10 more good ones:

31- Eastern start to the North Ridge of Mt Stewart, Cascades with Mark Twight. About 7 new pitches connecting to the upper half of the classic North Ridge, IV, 5.11, 1986.

32- Central Pillar of Crestone Peak, CO with Malcom Daly. Mostly simul-climed, III, 5.10, 1986?

33- Third Buttress Direct, Hallet's Peak CO with Teri Ebel. 8 pitches, III, 5.9, 1994.

34-Teri's Route on the east triangle of McHenry's Peak, rmnp, co WITH tERI eBEL. 8 PITCHES, iii, 5.11, 1994.

35- The Wisdom, Eldorado Canyon with John Bachar. My only climb with the master, but a decent one. 3 pitches, 11+, 1978?

36- Three Old Farts Young At Heart, Eldorado Canyon with Mike Weis and Jim Donini. We climbed in 3 pitches with no bolts. Today it's usually done in 2 pitches and the upper pitch has some bolts. 3 pitches, 5.10 R (on the first ascent), 1977?

37- Inner Space, Eldorado Canyon with John Baldwin. 3 pitches total, only 1 new, II, 510a R, 1977.

38- S-Crack Direct, LCC Utah with George Lowe. 8 pitches total, IV (when you do the S-Crack start) 5.9+, 1967.

39- Tom Thumb Center Route, Lone Peak Cirque with George Lowe. 4 pitches, II, 5.9, 1970?

40- Lowe Route, Qustion Mark Wall, Lone Peak Cirque with George Lowe. 3 pitches, II, 5.8, 1968?

Final 10 to come.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
OK, 10 more and then we'll stop. The selection process has become quite random, at this point, but they're all good routes, each with its' own character.

41- Let's put Seamstress Corner here. Telluride Colorado with Tim Kudo. 6 pitche, III, 11c/d R, 1980?

42- Master of Ceremonies, Ophir Wall, Telluride with Mark Wilford. 5 pitches, III, 5.11, 1984.

43- East Face Wedge, Elingwood Peak CO, solo. 1,500', III, 5.10, 1982?

44- Western Front, South Face of London Spire, northern Utah, solo. 1000', 5.8? 1967.

45- North Face Center, London Spire with Gavin Morris. About 15 pitches, III, 5.9, 1967.

46- West Face of Twin Sister, City of Rocks with? 5 pitches, III, 5.9+, 1968?

47- Southwest Buttress of Steinfels Dome, City of rocks with Dave Lowe. 6 or 7 pitches, III, 5.9 R, 1967.

48- Road Warrior, Mt Evans, CO with Dan Hare. We did 2 good pitches to start on the lower cliff band, then the 3 or 4 main pitches of the route. III, 5.10+, 1984?

49- Pointed Pillar, Mt Isabel, Indian Peaks, CO with Steve Dieckoff. 6 pitches, III, 5.10, 1984?

50- Arch Corner, East Face Mt Ogden, Utah with Bruce Roghaar. 5 pitches all protected with machine nuts threaded with rope or slings. II, 5.8, 1967.

FINISHED!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:45pm PT
Jeff, is there a story about how Seamstress Corner got it's name?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
I was referring to The Barb on Spearhead. I recall you writing an FFA story about it in Vertigo Games. Great list by the way!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 27, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
Ray, I was originally going to call it Cornercopia, but I had recently met Janie Hannigan, who I married a couple of years later. Janie was lead seamstress for the old Camp 5 company in Telluride. The name changed to Seamstress Corner in honor of Janie and her co-workers.

Steve, although there was a photo in the book of me free-climbing the Barb, I wasn't the first to do so. I don't think I had a story in the book, either - just the picture.

-Jello
Broken

climber
Texas
Aug 27, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
This thread is an example of Supertopo (and the internet) at its best.

Resurrected histories and personal connections combined with stories and photos, both old and new...

And then an off-the-cuff comment (Jello's "this is one of my 50 best...") sparks a wealth of new information.

Great thread, great world.

(((though I'm still peeved that Tristan, my old partner, didn't head back up there after his buddy Dave ripped that pin!)))
GB

Trad climber
N. Lake Tahoe, CA / Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 27, 2007 - 05:41pm PT
Jello, didn't you do the Macabre Roof above Ogden?
Where does that thing rank?
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Aug 29, 2007 - 07:12pm PT
GB- It was my brother, Greg that free-climbed Macabre Roof. I did the first ascent on aid, then Greg free climbed it the next weekend. I think it has only been led free twice. Once by Greg back in 1967, and then again by the late, great Ogden climber, Ken Gygi, who told me it is about 12c, R. Greg says it's not his most difficult climb from that era.

I used to think I was an absolutely terrible free climber when I was a teenager, because Greg was so much better. I didn't realize until later that he was climbing at a world standard for the day.

-JelloBro
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 1, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
Rats! No story, eh? Well, here's that FineWoolyJelloShot I was thinking about (Randall, Vertigo Games, 1983).


Jello, I've had a chance to look over your Nifty Fifty more closely. You are one prolific, as well as wild and crazy, sportsman, Sahib! Way impressive.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Sep 2, 2007 - 10:42pm PT
That photo brings back memories of climbing in the park during that era, Steve. EB's, a swami belt, wool cap and sweater and a handful of nuts. Much fun and very uncomplicated. My memories resemble that photo.

-MistyJello

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 29, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
hey there all... say, this is great posted stuff here...

say, jello, do you have a photo book of any of this stuff... it sure would make a great "history" info book for your family and loved ones to share over the coffee table...

way, to go... it would sure take a long time to go and look up every "mountain" for a picture in regards to each mountain-site... wow...

god bless you with adventure and thanks for the GREAT share...
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 29, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
Decades of endless discussion on ethics with endless attempts to somehow cast "clean climbing" as little more than a brief [and all to inconvienent] urban legend - but then one of the real deals spoils the fun by piping up and saying it all so succinctly, and almost in passing at that...

"...we agreed that it would be onsight, nuts where possible, fixed pins where necessary, and bolts only if they were absolutely necessary, all placed on lead without aid."

Always a pleasure to hear these ancient myths from one of the "legends" who just won't pass from the scene quietly...
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Oct 29, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
Holy Sh#t Jeff...

all I can say is

WOW!!!!!!!!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 30, 2007 - 01:13am PT
hey, there...now, nee bee, thanks for suggesting...

In fact I am working on a book of stories and pics, thanks, and ST keeps reminding me to keep persuing it.

Hope you're well!

-AllTheBestJello
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 30, 2007 - 03:35am PT
hey there jello... wellllllll-o, we'll have to just send this ol' post up to a bump, so you'll get a few more reminders...

thanks for the swell-o news... keep up the good book work... and a hearty god bless, to your earnest pursuit...

from 'ol neebee, you see... :)
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Oct 30, 2007 - 11:05am PT
Wow, Jeff! I can't believe the NE of Mt Gould is on that top 10. Having lived within a few miles of that beautiful choss pile all my life, I can't say it has beckoned me for a repeat. Please, do tell more, any tidbits at all. Would one likely find historic pins & such along the way? As far as I know it has never received a 3rd ascent.

Arne Boveng-iónlyski
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 30, 2007 - 11:07am PT
somellojello wrote;

Jack Tackle and Alex Lowe said they found a lot of 5.11 when they made the second ascent, but they must have gotten off-route.

Yeah that must be it. Those guys sucked at route finding.



Or... Like Larry Dahlke before him Jello didn't realize just how hard his climbs were or how great he was.


Only 10 Grand for that tick list! Come on jello! Man what a tight wad. Were not talking the Fifty Crowded Climbs here now are we? Anyone pulling of that list would spend at least 5Gs just on Ibuprofin.


You are my hero toohumblejello.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Oct 30, 2007 - 11:46am PT
Also, Jeff, Steve, anybody know where to purchase that photo from Vertigo in high quality?
Arne Boveng-iónlyski
L

climber
The cinders of California...
Oct 30, 2007 - 01:38pm PT
UncomplicatedJello said:

"EB's, a swami belt, wool cap and sweater and a handful of nuts. Much fun and very uncomplicated."

No chalk? No sequined chalk bag? No t-shirt sporting your sponsor's logo? Jello, you are simply amazing!



That is one heck of a GQ photo, too! (wink, wink)


WishingEveryoneWasLikeJello-L
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Oct 31, 2007 - 01:53am PT
Well, we were climbers once, and young. You guys sort of make me feel elated and embarassed at the same time. Thanks for that.

L, you especially make me feel young again...Stop it now!


-RedFacedJello
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 31, 2007 - 01:58am PT
She likes you Jeff.
Now that's worth reveling in!
L = smart AND cute.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 31, 2007 - 02:01am PT
Tough and fluffy......The tension is almost unbearable! And the Bear is certainly untensionable! LOL

Would this be the Tim Kudo photo in question earlier? Mr. Zen Macho himself on Gravity's Deception from Vertigo Games by Glenn Randall 1983.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 31, 2007 - 02:48am PT
Yup, that's Kudo, but not the shot which appeared in the mag.
Good work Steve, but we need the other shot still.
Oops, it's in post #10, by steelmonkey.
Better call it a night.
L

climber
The cinders of California...
Oct 31, 2007 - 04:16pm PT
Hey, this thread has a red-faced Jello and a compliment-spewwing Tarbaby in it...plus it's about climbing! We better Pump It Up folks!


ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Oct 31, 2007 - 05:32pm PT
Sounds good. Don't let this thread die. Jeff, as I posted a couple days back, I'd sure like to hear any other tidbits you might have about Mt Gould. Not to hassle you; not looking for beta; no intention of climbing up that rotten wall but still fascinated.

Arne Boveng-iónlyski
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 31, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
Arne- that WoolyJello shot is uncredited in Vertigo Games and should be Glenn Randalls's by default. Unless Der JelloMeister says otherwise, Glenn should have the original.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Oct 31, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
Just ordered the book today. Don't put up many pictures on the wall but that one is perfect. So yes, next step will be seeking a purchase of it from Glenn or Jeff, I'd say about 11"X14". And you know thats a nice ANALOG film photo; remember those?
Arne
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Nov 1, 2007 - 12:40am PT
Yeah, Arne, that's Glenn's photo. Don't have any idea how to contact him, though.

As far as the climb on Mt Gould goes, I remember the first half being very loose. Weis and I soloed that. The upper part was really sound rock, though, and we had a great time overall. As we climbed we could see a lot of commotion on the trail beneath the face. When we got down, we discovered that a woman had been badly mauled by a grizzly.

-JelloStaysAwayFromTheGrizz
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 1, 2007 - 02:24am PT
Where exactly is the Central Pillar on Crestone Peak and what do you recall about that outing? I worked two COBS courses in the Sangre de Christos and did one of the more interesting finishes on the Ellingwood Arete with Wally Berg back in 1986. To call that rock featured is an understatement for sure.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Nov 1, 2007 - 11:08am PT
FYI:
Glenn Randall recently gave a slideshow of his Colorado wilderness landscape photographs here at Neptunes.

I bet if you google him, he's got a pretty good web site with his photographs and recent book.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Nov 2, 2007 - 12:13am PT
OK, thanks Jeff. No more pestering, you've been a great sport! You gave me a great history tidbit. Imagine, climbing that route, whilst a grizzly mauling is happening down below. I couldn't find any info on that one though, in 1973. All of the compiled, chronological lists of maulings in Glacier only cover fatalities. Anyway, I might wander up that way some day. It's still hard to believe there is really sound rock up there, but you would know.

Take care,
Arne
Nate Furman

climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 12, 2007 - 12:06pm PT
Simply amazing...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 25, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
Tasty Jello Bump!
adam d

climber
Jul 25, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
Wow! Missed this the first time around. What a tick list!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 25, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
Jello wants to pay someone $10,000 to climb the routes and post photos.

We'd have to wait a lifetime for that.

How 'bout this. We all pool our money and pay Jello $10,000 for his photos.

Wheeler Peak? How often are you going get shots of that thing being climbed?

Most of us are california based, you list off peak that we know nothing about.

It would be worth it.

On a similar note, someday I want a look at the Galen Rowell archive. That guy climbed everything cool in the sierra that no one knows about, except a handful of folks.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 25, 2010 - 02:17pm PT
Lots of Sierra secrets hidden in DR's beard! LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 20, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
Bump for the gems in DR's beard!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 16, 2011 - 12:08am PT
Bump for Jello!

Tasty, colorful and always satisfying!
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 16, 2011 - 12:16am PT
Let's go do the requisite investigation . . . not too many attempts on the Ames Wall lately.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Nov 16, 2011 - 12:26am PT
What a great thread. I want to climb this one
12- North Rib of Mt, Slesse, North Cascades with Rob Kiesel. 27 pitches, V, 5.9, 1972.

Anyone done it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 16, 2011 - 12:37am PT
I think Jello's cosmic Pumori story might top them all...
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Nov 16, 2011 - 09:26am PT
Fantastic stuff Jeff.

I really hope you can capture some of this in a book one of these days...
Prod

Trad climber
Nov 16, 2011 - 10:04am PT
I wish I had the

1. Ability
2. Time
3. Money

to go after Jeff's $10,000 bounty on his top 50.

Prod.
Snorky

Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
Feb 24, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
Bump!

Who else could easily fill four volumes with their classic first ascents? Cragging, Big Walls, Ice, and Alpine. A general specialist.

My own props to yet another Lowe Route, this one on the north face of Angel's Landing, Zion, Utah. V, 5.9 C3, 12 pitches, 1,400'. FA with Cactus Bryan in 1970, right up the middle of the tallest part of the stunning wall. Classic. FFA Mike Anderson, 5.13.

Who was this Cactus Bryan? I'd climb anything with a guy named that.

Also curious about: The Toad, 5.8 A3, 16 pitches, 2000' direttissima on the north face of The Sentinel in Zion, also with Cactus Bryan in 1971. Gotta be one of the tallest, steepest sandstone faces anywhere. Has The Toad seen a hammerless ascent?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Feb 24, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
Wow! Another sleeper posting from the past, one of the best. This should have an automatic pop up on ST every 60 days. Jello in the toaster, pops up every two months.
spectreman

Trad climber
Jan 26, 2014 - 11:16am PT
bump.
amazing stuff
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 26, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
WhoooHoooo, now that Jello has won the Outdoor Inspiration Award this thread should be near the top for a while.

Steve Grossman, when Jeff and I climbed the North Buttress of Crestone Peak ( not the Needle) we saw the line while we were standing way back from the wall. It's an obvious dark buttress that runs from the valley floor all the way to the summit. An obvious line. Climbing on that conglomerate was like climbing stacked basketballs: sometimes you're pulling on innies and others, on outies, hoping that the outies don't become innies while you are on them! There was very little gear on the buttress so we simul climbed most of it.. When we needed to decompress we'd bail to one of the side gullies for a belay.

Jello, I think I was the one who climbed with you when we freed the final bolt ladder on Wunch's. You told me that you didn't think it had ever been freed but we did it. Later, Peter Hubble gave me credit for the FA of that pitch in his " Brown Book of Lies". Later versions of the guide to the area give credit to others. The later versions are probably correct: I was a good slab climber but so were many others who did a lot more climbing in the Splat than I did. The line was just way to obvious, with bolts in place, to not have been climbed. Whatever.

Cheers ,
Mal
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 26, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Never saw this one before. What a great thread! So many killer posts & some really nice pics. Thanks all.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 26, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
Jeff is flat out awesome. Just take a look at his route list on this thread and you cannot help but agree!
nathanael

climber
CA
Mar 27, 2015 - 11:18pm PT
wow. bring this one to the top
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 28, 2015 - 01:38am PT
46- West Face of Twin Sister, City of Rocks with? 5 pitches, III, 5.9+, 1968?

This one really piqued my interest. No beta on it anywhere on the net. Anyone know any details on this? I'd email Jeff, but he has a lot on his plate these days...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
Bump for a stellar climbing career.

I am not sure any American climber can match his accomplishments.
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Mar 11, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
Bump for awesomeness.
N0_ONE

Social climber
Utah
Mar 12, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
Wow! Now this is a great thread! Inspirational and uplifting. Too bad there's not more threads like this and less of the trash.

I've had the pleasure of hanging out with Jeff a few times. One of my fondest memories was being invited to be with him on his last climb when he led the 3rd pitch of Touchstone in Zion. It was heart wrenching and inspirational to watch this man, a legend in my world, fight his way for hours up this pitch. By this time his legs were almost useless, it was all arms. I think he was getting a maximum of 12" or so between pieces. But there was no stopping him he just pushed on. He even took a whipper that I caught on film. We must of laughed or teased or something because in classic Jeff style he gave us the double Bird. I've never met someone who could flip you off with as much love as Jeff Lowe.

Your the man Jeff!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 17, 2016 - 08:09pm PT
Bump for the astounding accomplishments of our own Jello Master!
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