Top __ Most Polished Routes Anywhere


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Gym climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 18, 2007 - 07:59pm PT

Sherry's Crack, Pat and Jack. The snot-slick starting feet are completely useless.

Bloody Crack, Looking Glass. Hideous abuse by toproping campers has rendered this once-innocuous line way harder than the original 5.7 rating.

Bastille Crack, Eldo. Ascended approximately 7 times/hr between March and October since about 1962.

(Hey, looks like Rob likes cracks. He'd have more to say if he ever went to Rifle)

Honorable mentions:

Lena's Lieback (and most of Swan Slabs)
That other thing by the Bishop's Terrace with the greasy fingers.
Crackattack, Way Rambo, Generic...most of the Supercrack Buttress in fact. Wingate seems to have a half-life, unfortunately.


Trad climber
Durango, CO
Aug 18, 2007 - 08:04pm PT
Anything on the Beaver St. Wall in San Francisco. It's a lot like climbing brown glass, but a little smoother.
Brett Pierce

Colorado Springs
Aug 18, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
Aren't you supposed to working the Fish Hatchery aid station right now?

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Aug 18, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
whats beaver street wall?

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
Only one guy has come in yet, unwad yer panties.

I'll be there around 8.

Hey, we're grilling tonight, come on over.

A long way from where I started
Aug 18, 2007 - 08:51pm PT
Try some of the popular classics on English limestone.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 18, 2007 - 09:07pm PT
Wouldn't the most polished routes anywhere be in Poland, or at least climbed by Polish climbers?

Trad climber
pitch above you
Aug 18, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
Ken's Crack in the Gunks gets the double treatment... half the time it's a waterfall, the other half the time it has legions of climbers marching up it. Smooooooooooth. At least the chalk get washed off regularly.
Wild Bill

Aug 18, 2007 - 10:04pm PT
Beaver St. wall is in (I think) Corona Heights playground area. Polished hard mud, friable but slick.


Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 18, 2007 - 10:07pm PT
sunny side bench: Jam Crack - honorable mention at least, and that was 15 years ago...

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Aug 18, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
Rebel without a pause, red rock

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2007 - 11:01pm PT
Do tell, Warbler, I have no idea who Sherry is.
T Moses

Trad climber
Paso Robles
Aug 19, 2007 - 12:08am PT
I second the motion for Sunnyside Jamcrack.

First pitch of After Six is purty polished too.

San Fran Cisco
Aug 19, 2007 - 01:55am PT
beaver street wall is a pretty fun 2.5 routes or so from 5.9 to 5.11. all the routes converge after 20 vertical feet or so. the top-rope anchor is a heavy chain around a fence-post at the top of the crag. they recently built a bizarre second fence shielding the part of the main fence with the chain-post. you can squeeze between the two fences, though.

Trad climber
Aug 19, 2007 - 02:33am PT
Every problem on the camp 4 circuit...

A tent in the redwoods
Aug 19, 2007 - 05:27am PT
The junk at Mortar/Indian rock- super polished crappy rhyolite or any of the 5.11 "warmups" in Rifle. Those Colorado holds feel like bars of soap. Oh, and the Water crack on Lembert Dome in Toulumne. Lucho onsight free-soloed that thing barefoot back in the day. He must've had an inch of pine sap on his feet for them to stick.

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Aug 19, 2007 - 07:35am PT
Good call on Sherry's.

Nasty Rifle polish (the rope grooves are trippy). Found some of the 12's more polished than glass. I had to make up alternate beta to send one thing, couldn't use the 1/4" wide foothold on redpoint...could off the dog, barely.

Sport climber
Lexington, KY
Aug 19, 2007 - 08:19am PT
Chimpanzadrome. First 13a on the continent and located at the crag closest to Paris. Like glass.

Luxury rehabilitation treatment facility in Boise
Aug 19, 2007 - 10:28am PT
Step it Up and Go in TM. But that was polished to begin with.
rick d

Social climber
tucson, az
Aug 19, 2007 - 11:56am PT
anything at carderock, from kindergarten & beginners to merv's nerve.

most have been climbed every 7 times/ hour since 1940
(except rainy days or flooding).
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