The Diamond

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bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2007 - 06:08pm PT
Maybe one best alpine faces in the world. Post up!






Also shots of the Lower East face and the Red Wall.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 17, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
My first and second big wall, early '70s.






(back when I could do the approach and didn't know if I went to the desert I didn't have to.)
Cheers Bob.
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
Aug 17, 2007 - 09:45pm PT

Coming to the end of the traverse about a month ago.....
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Aug 18, 2007 - 01:18am PT
i'll be back out there in a couple of weeks!



WBraun

climber
Aug 18, 2007 - 02:03am PT
Looks real good.

They said I must get up early to go up to this Diamond.

3 am was rise time they said.

By 3:05 it was pouring rain.

Thus I went back to sleep and never went.

Thanks for the photos, they are great.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 18, 2007 - 02:41am PT
Late summer can be flirting with disaster Tim.
I remember '94, and reaching Granite Pass in a snowstorm.
Good luck compadre; you're a veteran now.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Aug 18, 2007 - 09:10am PT
I don't know why you'd want to mount Lady Washington,
although she is said to have had a nice pair.
Maybe I wood first thing in the morning,
but not once it gets light out.

Folks up high (orange, black)are on Ariana;
below, a party on some chossheap called Pervert Something-or-other.
That must have been an amazing trip back then, Ron.

The Yellow Wall, p.1. Rather a stiff wake-up.
He missed the marmot.
Later that day (last week) it trundled a guy's pack down Field's Chimney all the way to the glacier
during an attempted break-in.

Following the traverse across Crossover Ledge and up to the start of the A4 Traverse pitch.
This was pretty effin' burly as well, harder than the first. Luckily I got the dull end both times.


Anyone have any recommendations for topping out above Table Ledge? We looked into the maw of the YW finish,
a wide, dripping mossy slot, and opted to go on down.
I'm still ISO a better way.
Maybe it's just those pitches in a dry year.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 18, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
Early '70s I'm in a wheelchair recovering from a rockfall injury (acquired in Eldo, where there IS no rockfall, yeah right).

The doctor says I'm gonna have to give up climbing, but I'm pouring over my East face of Long's photos picking out a new route to do up the left side of the Diamond. The ace up my sleeve was the close inspection that I was able to pull on the fourth ascent of Curving Vine.
I'm so cocksure of myself that I even start playing with ideas for a name for this route I wouldn't even climb until the following year.

What to call it?
What to call it?


In the mail is a letter from my old friend Eddy Boudreau who is stationed in South Korea.

The letter starts;
Dear Ron,
are you still hiding out in your perverted vertical sanctuary?
Michael

Trad climber
Boulder
Aug 18, 2007 - 03:45pm PT
I just climbed the Pervertical Sanctuary route TO THE SUMMIT w/ Wayne Willoughby! Wayne had polio as a child, has no use in is right leg, and very little in his left. HE KICKED ASS! We finished the last 3 pitches in a typical death defying Diamond storm and there was nothing but positivity ringing from this guy. Add an unplanned bivy above Table Ledge, the Kiener route finish, a marathon walk-off descent (Keyhole was not an option), and you have the all of the ingredients for full value adventure! Seriously, we had a blast...
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 18, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
My god! How did he handle the approach?
Even if he rode a horse that's impressive as hell.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Aug 18, 2007 - 07:43pm PT
Wow. I can't believe I was whining about a little cold. Sounds like you guys had an adventure.

Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Aug 19, 2007 - 02:09pm PT
Rhoto...Are you sure you were looking at the YW finish? The last two pitches of Yellow Wall are one crack right of where the Casual hits Table. You have to climb past a refrigerator sized rocking block on Table but after that it is clean amazing climbing to the top. The last pitch has high exposure climbing up the right of the hanging roofs, looking down between your legs at the base of the Lower East face 1500 feet below you.

The thin flaring crack system directly above the Casual crux pitch is Bright Star, which suckers many parties with its nice jamming for 50 feet before the business begins.

The last 2 pitches of Forest Finish are also high value and can be climbed in a 70m rope stretcher. Some water and slime but hands and fists forever and should not be missed.

I've climbed the Diamond over 20 times, and the days I have taken it to the top vs bailing at Table (which is only 3/4 of the way up BTW) have been the most memorable. Of course when the thunder starts grumbling it sure is nice to have that option.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 19, 2007 - 02:27pm PT
Kevster,
it is posts such as the one you just made that make the taco such a great place to hang.
Thanks for the perspicacious input.
Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
Aug 19, 2007 - 05:12pm PT
the traverse pitch -- Casual Rt.
the crux pitch -- Casual Rt.
some gumby on Table Ledge. The photo is tilted big time but the trail line tells the story.
Climbers on the Casual Route...
Crux pitch of Red Wall
Crux pitch of Directissima


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 21, 2007 - 10:38pm PT
Bump?!
'Only been up the Yellow Wall.
What an amazing linkup of finger locks, jams, and crisp edges all the way up!

I love this picture of Kor cruising some of those moves:


from CLIMB!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 21, 2007 - 11:15pm PT
Roger Briggs on the cover of Glenn Randall's "Vertigo Games":
(there is so much to be told by Roger Briggs about the Diamond...)



A passage from Pat Ament's "A History of Free Climbing in America":

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Aug 22, 2007 - 02:22pm PT
Kev-

ABout 15 feet right of the Casual topout. Not the system that heads into the roof (dry, inviting, unclear (to us) if it links into the roof or not); but one that lies to the right of the roof and the wet R-facing corner above it. We stepped on the rocker block (more like car-door) to check it out. I guess the dry one is Bright Star, if it looks cruiser for 50' or so and then gets hard. I'll look into the FF next time.

Maybe the old COLORADO ISSUE topo from rock and ice will clear things up.

Y'all should get the f off the computer and out there today, cuz the cool and clear is HERE!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Aug 22, 2007 - 02:39pm PT
Did the Obelisk about a month ago with George Lowe. Prior to that, I hadn't been to the Diamond since maybe 1991 or 1992. I had remembered what a hump a Diamond day is, what with the 4 hours of hiking/scrambling just to get to the start. What I hadn't remembered is how beautiful that face is. I could not stop looking at it on the hike in and on the hike out. I would have to say it is the most beautiful face I have ever seen (except for Elizabeth's, of course).
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Aug 8, 2008 - 03:29am PT
Just did Eroica to two pitches on the Casual Route to the last four pitches of the Forrest finish on Saturday with Kevin Stricker (Kevster on the Taco)and Dave Russell. First time that I have topped out on the Diamond without being in a pretty major storm.

It only rained on us on top for a relatively short time, and we never stopped laughing from begining to end. Wow, do I really have to wait an entire year before I get a chance to get back up there?! Guess I'll just have to settle for El Cap next month! Ha!
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Aug 8, 2008 - 07:49am PT
damn i love this place, glad to see this one bumped back up again!
spectreman

Trad climber
CO
Aug 8, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
Climbers on Casual Route, Forrest Finish, Black Dagger, and Soma. This shot is taken from the Camel Slide descent. My wife took the photo, me and my partner are the Black Dagger team. George Lowe is the climber in white on Soma.

Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 8, 2008 - 10:06pm PT
Nice thread
Buggs

Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
Aug 12, 2008 - 04:04am PT
Awesome photos mates,...turned out to be much to big and lengthy for me this summer... maybe next lifetime??


As close as I got,...the campsite.
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Aug 12, 2008 - 10:27am PT
Moraine Park Campground site number #153 eh? my fav!


Brian

climber
Cali
Aug 12, 2008 - 11:18am PT
It's been awhile since I've posted a photo, but here goes...

This is my good buddy John on the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge.

I just got back from spending 5 weeks in Estes Park--so much great climbing...

The Diamond is a beaut, no doubt. However, the North Chimney (the entry route for the Diamond) is a real pile of sh!t.

Definitely a must do wall for any alpine rock climber.

Brian
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 24, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
This thread needs some additions.
The Diamond is amazing!
"Shall we go
you and I while we can
through the
transitive nightfall
of diamonds"
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 24, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
Mirror shatters, in formless of matter
Glass hand dissolving, through ice petal flowers revolving
lady in velvet recedes in the nights of goodbye...
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Feb 24, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
so what for next year? longs three years in a row now. dunn/westbay, casual, lambs slide to notch col (solo). really wanna do smash the state!!

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 24, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
My friend Bill just finished up his quest to climb Longs by twelve different routes in twelve consecutive months.

Dougald MacDonald wrote about it on his blog:
http://themountainworld.blogspot.com/2008/12/annals-of-obsession-update.html

Here's Bills rendition of the ascents:
http://www.wwwright.com/climbing/tripreports/2008/LongsPeakProject.htm
goatboy smellz

climber
dirty south
Feb 24, 2009 - 02:53pm PT
Earlier this year - Flying Buttress, Ships Prow & the Diamond.




donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 24, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
Certainly one of the best alpine "crags" in the world. Great climbing, location and history, but probably to short for the "face" designation.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 24, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
You north of the equator again Jim?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 24, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
Ron,
Got back a few days ago. I'll be going to RRR- perhaps we can hook- not in the biblical sense that is.
ct

climber
CO
Feb 24, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
Truly an amazing place to climb. Finished the Casual Route in a rainstorm last year, the crux pitch was terrifying. Did Pervertical this year (thanks Ron) in perfect temps and had a blast.

Anybody been on Black Dagger?

N. Chimney at Dawn

Sheets of golden granite

Chilling on the Mitten

Crux on Pervertical. Looks slabby! Not so...

Halfway up the OW pitch.

Table Ledge at last.

Rounding the corner

Summit glory!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 24, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
I've done the Black Dagger. Great climb, FULL value for the grade.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:21am PT
The Diamond should have a permanent front page slot, seriously.
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Feb 25, 2009 - 08:31am PT
i gotta agree. here's a bump.

heading up to share a smoke with pete and andy.



cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jul 25, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
Just saw the Diamond in person for the first time this month. Looks amazing!


Bump!
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Jul 25, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
I would like to do it some time but have knee issues on long approaches/descents. How long does it take to approach from the car (a regular walk NOT really hoofing it type of walk)?
Gilroy

Social climber
Bolderado
Jul 25, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
Approximately 5 hours by headlamp to the North Chimney for this 60 y.o.

YMMV
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 25, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
AP,
what Gilroy refers to is about 5 miles and about 3,000' of gain.

But the North Chimney can be a shooting gallery, and many prefer the Chasm View rappel approach.
That means about 7 miles and 4,000'.
You can bivy in the Boulderfield about six or seven-hundred feet below Chasm and ditch your bivy gear, do the wall fast and light, descend the Cables rappel, pick up your gear, and head home.

Down side is if you fail on the wall there is a long walk for the gear (unless you have support).
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 26, 2013 - 10:50am PT
Cool thread

I climbed he casual route on a cold Monday in September '84. Three other attempts have been rained/ snowed off.
TeleRoss

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 26, 2013 - 12:44pm PT


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 26, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
Great alpine crag.....needs a retractable dome to ward off the Summer monsoonal moisture.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jul 26, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
not the diamond proper,
more like the quartz periphery

OTC

Social climber
Jul 26, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Cool thread, indeed. Jay, I was thinking that we did The Casual Route in
Sept. 1980. I remember wanting to get something more committing under the belt to ease the jitters of my first trip to the Valley that Oct/Nov.

John
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jul 26, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
CO Bump on a Calicentric site.
OTC

Social climber
Jul 26, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
Big Square (Just to the North) Bump to the Diamond.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 26, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
I am so on this baby come September!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 19, 2018 - 01:59pm PT
Bumped into this thread on my way to some other goodies.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3087969/How-hard-is-the-Diamond
matlinb

Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
May 21, 2018 - 08:06pm PT
matlinb

Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
May 21, 2018 - 08:07pm PT
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