Whats the longest fall you took wearing a Swami Belt?

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john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 13, 2007 - 09:54pm PT
Whats the longest fall you took ,or witnessed , and what were the results?


Any stories?
Nohea

Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
Aug 13, 2007 - 10:01pm PT
No school for you tomorrow! Or are you not on the BI?

Yea Would love to hear some good swami tales.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 13, 2007 - 10:11pm PT
As Russ Walling would say:
"long enough to know better"

Jeepers, maybe 30-40 feet.
I took some pretty good whippers in the Needles of California doing new routes. Might be some stories there...
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 13, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
Freewheelin, June 81 [?] really cool route, it had t-stormed the day before so was entirely chalk free, but the storms had washed down a fine layer of gravel that collected on the ledges. I was finishing the last pitch before it rejoins Quicksilver. I got through the five.ten wearing my Paragots that i'd bought off a French guy the week before (10 bucks--awesome shoes). I'm pulling up to the belay ledge and there's ball bearings on everything, so very carefully I step out right onto a big edge and crank up.

The edge breaks and I pitch, grabbing at the ball bearings. I go ten feet. Then fifteen. Then twenty. And it hits me--my belayer, Karl, thought I was on the ledge so he took me off belay. I was sure I was dropped.

Funny thing is, it didn't seem like a big deal. I twisted around and picked out the first ledge I was going to grab and then, because I figured I was going to fast too stop with one try, the next three or four or five ledges that I would grab in turn, calculating how I'd bounce. If that failed, I was even picking out where I was going to land in the talus and how I would aim for which pieces. It all seemed like it was under control.

Then the rope grabbed and I boinged up and down like a yo-yo after maybe fifty feet. Nice catch on a body belay. No pain, no panic.

We finished the route w/o problems. But I have had two bad falls on a swami and both (not surprisingly) were short, nasty, and brutish. They don't make good stories.
WBraun

climber
Aug 13, 2007 - 10:31pm PT
I saw Warbler catch Dale on catchy with rope around his waist.

Let me see? Dale flies far and Warbler gets nice long red tattoo around him.
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2007 - 10:34pm PT
Good thing I stay on the north end of da Big Island,, looks like south end might get it pretty good. Hope it dosent hook north like Iniki did.



Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Aug 13, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
Fifty feet. Aid fall on a new route (The Watchtower, Sequoa). I put in a bolt after that. Longest fall I ever took. Scrapped my arm but no problem otherwise. Bummer I had to beat all that mank back into the crack to reach the high point.

JL
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 13, 2007 - 10:46pm PT
I suspect Yvon Chouinard has the record; 160 feet, as I recall, on the North Face of the Crooked Thumb, Teewinot, 1959. Belayed by Bob Kamps (a hip belay, of course). The route was finally completed in 1966 by Pete Cleveland and Don Storjohann, who I'm sure were both equipped with swami belts but had the good sense not to fall on them.
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
I had a friend who always used a swami into the mid 80's, had the white pants and the long sleeved red and white striped polo shirt with a pair of RR's and everything. But I never saw him fall. He always said it was a good incentive to not get yourself into a position where you might plummet.

When did swami's fade out.,,I cant imagine you guys used em on the first 'Nose in a Day'.. how about it largo?

And just to beat somebody to it..

"I saw a guy fall twenty feet once , while I was wearing a swami"


nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 13, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
klk - whoa! my palms are sweating.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 13, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
The trick, by the way, for swami belts was to wrap them around your hips just above the hip bone. In the iron age, everyone had a hammer holster on their dominant side and the swami belt went right under that and was held down by it. Fall impacts to the hip area were not bad at all. Having a swami belt around your waist and falling on it was a totally different experience.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 13, 2007 - 11:26pm PT
KLK wrote
"..Freewheelin, June 81 [?] really cool route, it had t-stormed the day before so was entirely chalk free, but the storms had washed down a fine layer of gravel that collected on the ledges. I was finishing the last pitch before it rejoins Quicksilver. I got through the five.ten wearing my Paragots that i'd bought off a French guy the week before (10 bucks--awesome shoes). I'm pulling up to the belay ledge and there's ball bearings on everything, so very carefully I step out right onto a big edge and crank up.

The edge breaks and I pitch, grabbing at the ball bearings. I go ten feet. Then fifteen. Then twenty. And it hits me--my belayer, Karl, thought I was on the ledge so he took me off belay. I was sure I was dropped... "

Dang, funny, I feel within 3 feet of that exact spot a few years later. Knocked out half of one of my front teeth. (my worst climbing injury thank God) 35 feet upside down and backwards.

Ballbearings, They suck on runout routes!

I went back for revenge many years later but when I got to clip the bolt that caught that fall, it was gone. If found the broken off rusted stump of it after looking very carefully. Guess we weren't the only one's pitching off that one.

Like you, I was one move away from thinking "the hard stuff's done on this climb"

Peace

Karl

Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Aug 13, 2007 - 11:35pm PT
"When did swami's fade out.,,I cant imagine you guys used em on the first 'Nose in a Day'.. how about it largo?"

Sure did. No leg loops, even. On some of those pitches up high (jugging a free line) I was hanging out in space and totally on my waiste/swami. That fricking blew. I got leg loops, basically the next day, and never went back.

I think most all the early ascents of El Cap and other walls were done using swaimi belts (1" webbing - I used the thicker 2"), possibly using a "Swiss Seat" here and there. I suspect (don't know) on the first ascent of both Half Dome and the Nose, guys tied straight into the goldline. That's pretty rugged.

JL
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2007 - 11:45pm PT
Now that,, is cool.

I'm sure Chicken Skinner would love to have that for the museum someday, Mr Largo. You still got that thing stashed away somewhere?
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 13, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
Probably 8 feet, on a Bates route. Enough to scare the sh#t out of me. Oh, and on a stunt fall for a movie--hurt like hell.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 13, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
Karl--That bolt is gone? Guess I won't head back up this fall!

Rgold--Back in the early 20th c, most technical manuals told folks that the key to a safe swami was wearing it high on the chest, just under the armpits-- that way, if you fell and hung, you were less likely to suffocate.

I did all my trs in a swami, as well as leads. I suspect a lot of folks on this site did. Everyone thought that they were safer than harnesses, because they attached above the cog and therefore were less likely to tip you upside down (and induce massive head injuries) in a fall.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 13, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
I was still using a 2 inch Swami all the way through 1987.
Super comfy!

Here's Lechlinski showing how it's done:



It was a good look:






Last photo, the best in the series by far, by Chiloe
clustiere

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Aug 13, 2007 - 11:58pm PT
John you ever live in the ochoco national forest????/
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:01am PT
tb-- that hawaii'aan shirt photo is truly sick. i applaud your courage.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:08am PT
I miss the 2 inch swami.
Really, overall, it was so much less a distraction.

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:17am PT
"Back in the early 20th c, most technical manuals told folks that the key to a safe swami was wearing it high on the chest, just under the armpits-- that way, if you fell and hung, you were less likely to suffocate."

Chest harnesses were a European enthusiasm; they never caught on here. As for hanging in a swami, conventional wisdom was that you'd be dead in 15-20 minutes. I know of at least one death that occurred that way when someone rapelling off just their swami (we all did that) got hung up somehow.

Of course, there was a way to avoid death; you simply turned upside down and hung that way (try this with an El Cap rack sometime). Actually, while you were hanging upside down and trying to keep from dropping all you gear off your shoulder slings, you grabbed a runner, twisted into a figure-8, threaded it on your legs so that it passed in front of the rope, and then righted yourself---instant sit-harness.

Please do not ask why we didn't think to install leg-loops permanently. I remember thinking when people first started using them that they'd be impossibly cumbersome in general and that in particular you'd never get up wide cracks with them in the way and the rope pinned immovably at your navel.

Oh, and as for the original question, I fell 30' on two different occasions with a swami belt on. These remain the longest falls I've taken, and since both of them ended inches above the ground, I'm happy that none were any longer.
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:20am PT
Good stuff, Tar, dig 'too tall' in the leisure suit. M. Cathedral?
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2007 - 12:24am PT
Wow, this is amazing,,

Largo said he used a swami on the first NIAD and Rgold gave us a bit more of history for the super T.

You getting this CS?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:29am PT
"Karl--That bolt is gone? Guess I won't head back up this fall! "

I hear the route has been re-bolted since then. Let's hope they checked the topo and found the dead bolt.

peace

karl
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:36am PT
Yes Bee Hay:
Too Tall on Stoner's Highway.

For off width and tight squeeze, it is really nice to be able to move the rope to the side and the swami belt accommodated that rope position.

It is very rare that a harness significantly gets in the way on an off width/squeeze, but I do sometimes notice it scraping along.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:43am PT
RGold:

That whole inversion/sling maneuver with the swami belt: we called that the monkey hang and it was required self rescue curriculum at Yosemite Mountaineering School in the 80’s.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 14, 2007 - 01:01am PT
rgold-- rapping off a swami shows your age-- before the fifties, most folks used a dulfer. later, most folks improvised leg loops. we're talking, what, late fifties-early sixties? single biner-over-the-shoulder or biner brake?

tb--we used to call that inversion-sling maneuver a baboon hang. i actually had to use it once.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 01:13am PT
Yez yez... the baboon hang.

The monkey hang was something Jeff Lowe said you were supposed to do from ice tools.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 14, 2007 - 01:41am PT
My longest swami fall was about 10 metres, at Squamish in 1974. A fairly steep route. My glasses kept going, but I stopped.

We didn't have 2" tubular webbing here, so made our swamis out of 2" seatbelt webbing. Doesn't hold knots as well, but did the job. When rappelling, we added a diaper sling made from a double length 1" runner. Plus belay seats for hanging belays.

There were also some tied and/or sewn sit harnesses and chest harnesses, based (I think) on a design from the Mountaineers and using 1" tubular. We sure were happy when the first commercial sit harness, the Whillans, appeared in 1975. Like the EB, it was much better than what preceded it, though looking back I'm not so sure. Perhaps we need a Whillans harness thread?
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 14, 2007 - 01:47am PT
mh-- whillans thread? the english emasculator? my partner wore one. i met a girl in jtree in 1982, hobbling around on crutches. forty-footer on a slab and that single thread between the legs had loaded her pelvis right above the socket. it helped to reinforce my swami chauvinism.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 01:48am PT
Mighty Hiker:

If you search the forum you'll find about a year and a half ago we had a pretty good swami thread, followed by a Whillans harness thread.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 01:51am PT
The biggest fall I ever took was in a Whillans harness; maybe 50 feet, fell off West Crack at the top of the first pitch. My last piece was a fixed angle, and when I was done flying through the air I was a good 25 feet below it.

I switched to a to a 2 inch swami after that...
'Never wanted kids anyway.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 14, 2007 - 01:56am PT
Well, I took any number of falls on a Whillans harness, without physical harm. The longest perhaps 20 metres, but low angle. Tying into them properly took a bit of effort.

Tar - yes, I probably read if not contributed to said swami/harness threads. Pretty obvious topics, given our demographic. But now we've got these guys showing up who tied in with the end of the rope - pretty hard to top.

Edit: I confess to learning to rock climb with a bowline on a coil, and body rappelling.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 02:01am PT
Well Anders,
I really did take a 50 footer in the Whillans, but I was kidding about the ball buster part.

There's a thing here in Boulder called the Ooomf Slot in Boulder Canyon. I couldn't quite do it because of my harness, so I came down, stripped off the harness, tied directly into the rope 'n shimmy'd straight up that sucker.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 02:15am PT
Nice Kevin.

Much the same story for me on West Crack.
I was skating around in those case hardened PA's, needed to re-think my moves.
So I attempted one move of down climbing in layback position and I was away...
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 14, 2007 - 02:47am PT
ok-- since we aren't getting big stories--

1982 winter. i'm in jtree, in my k-mart sleeping bag and mec bivouac bag. no car, no bike, no food, no likker, nos crib. it snow, epic, at least for jtree, monumental-- maybe a bit more than a foot. i wake up and hv is empty. no rangers, no tourists, no climbers. i put on all the clothes i own and crawl up on top of a boulder.

hours pass. the snow falls.

i wake up to a big "CRASH." a tiny beater car has careened into the dumpster at the "cube" campsite. it sits there for maybe three or four minutes. then the passenger gets out, looks at the front of the car/rock, and returns. a few minutes later, the driver gets out, checks the damage, then returns.

i'm freezing. but i notice the BC plates on the beater. since i used to live in Vancouver, and learned to climb in Squamish (which has maybe 17 climbers total), it's a safe bet I know the owner. So I climb down, knock on the window, and sure enuf, it's Peter and Hamish. I pile into the car to prevent frostbite (trying to ignore the lettuce atmosphere and endless homophobic/philic jokes nttawwt)and wait out the storm.

me: This blows.
peter: If it stops snowing, we'll climb.

and climb we did. It heated up to at least 38 degrees and so we drove off to Wangerbanger (since something that faced northeast was clearly indicated) and Peter led it. He looked just slightly less than south of casual, and that was a warning sign. Hamish declined to follow. So I tied in and cast off.

ten feet up my hands were numb. i kept stuffing them into the crack. but I had no idea what they were doing. it was as if someone had surgically attached chunks of defrosting horsemeat to my wrists. i pitched. and the top-rope jammed.

(HERE IS THE SWAMI PART) Peter had f*#ked up the anchor. So there I was, swinging in the winter breeze, numb, hungry, cold, sober and in serious pain, and yet only twenty feet off the deck and no one to witness my heroic sacrifice.

I held out my frozen meat hooks, and Hamish, while holding down the belay, valiantly tried to toss up a runner. God knows how cold he must have been. It was like the ringtoss at the circus. Meanwhile, Peter ran up top to fix the clusterf*#k. Finally, I speared the runner, inverted, and executed the baboon hang which I had seen only in Ament's "Rockwise" (as demonstrated at Horsetooth Reservoir.) Peter got to the belay; I pulled in for along enuf to fix the damn thing; and lowered off.

A few hours later, the sun came out. It was classic Josh. The sun shone. The snow melted. The temps popped from forties to seventies (at least in the sun). And it was perfect for climbing.

So Peter and Hamish told me it was too "hot" to climb, and they took a nap.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Aug 14, 2007 - 03:17am PT
Late to the party, but here it is:

About 30 feet, on steep Absolutely Free handcrack.


The key was knowing that an asian, karate-type mentality, just before the rope-bounce, was how to best take the impact of a fall.

And every fall I've ever taken since was on this basis, asian, karate, and it seems the way to fly.

To Wit:

Mind relaxation at the moment of fall/release, followed by a carefully-timed muscle-contraction in the core at impact, seems to be the best way to ride it out.


If you take a punch to the body, you tense up, to take it.

Same thing, on a whip.

But, you also have to control yourself to not hit, or try not to hit things, on the way down.


Falling is an art.


I am SO glad I am not a master of that art.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 14, 2007 - 09:56am PT
Last time I tied in directly with the rope was...last year at Poko-Moonshine in the Adirondacks. Left my harness in the car, not that far away, but we'd have to give up our place at the head of the line so...bowline on a coil for me. Without a belay loop and several coils around the waist, I gave up on my belay device too and reverted to a hip belay.

Climbers around probably thought they were watchin' some dedicated old-school nut who just wouldn't give up his prehistoric ways, as opposed to the actual semi-alzheimic turkey fumbling around that day. Had to use a carabiner brake and fabricate a swiss seat for rappelling, which served to remind me just how much more comfortable harnesses really are, especially when compared to leg loops made from dental floss runners.
horst

Trad climber
Lancaster, PA
Aug 14, 2007 - 10:28am PT
Took a 40 footer in 1981....and I blame some of my current lower back problems on it (although it's more likely the decades of running). Or, perhaps, I should blame my childhood heros at the Gunks (Bragg, Goldstone, Mac, Williams, et al.)...they all wore a swami belt...so I had to wear one too!.

BTW, here's an interesting (er, embarrasing) side-by-side "past-present" photo of me atop Devils Tower (1981 w/ red swami, running shorts, tube socks, and fro!)

the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Aug 14, 2007 - 10:38am PT
early may 1982....
end of my senior year of H.S. in Lake Tahoe...

Rob Miller and i cut class to go climbing @ 90' wall..
I am leading my first 5.9 and i get near the top where you bust left into a wide crack and your are done. Now i was never one for wide cracks so i saw this thin crack on the arete and so i start going up that to finish. crack runs out, i am pumped and don't know what to do so i pump out and fall.. i have a swami and no leg loops and rob is giving me a waist belay (standard in those days)...
and i keep falling and falling and falling, thinking so this is it and i am done before i really got to climb some cool stuff...!
Somehow rob manages to catch me about 15' off the deck and on my way down my left foot taps a ledge and i break my ankle...He was soem horrendous rope burns on his hands and back and we are both in a lot of pain and we are a mile or so from the car...
but...

happens to be that two very large climbers are there to witness my first 5.9 attempt lead and my first lead fall~!!!
So these two guys haul me on their back to the car, but Rob does not know how to drive!
So....
I use the tire iron rod to push in the clutch, and operate the gas and break with the right foot, Rob changes the gears and we manage to get home. My Mom was a sub at my school and she returns home to see me on the couch in pain and wondering where i was that day.
I went through graduation on crutches and managed to rehab pretty quickly that summer and finished that summer leading my first 5.10's, skipped 5.11 and did my first 5.12 and 5.12 leads @ snowshed wall...

swami's were state of the art (Frog) until Johnny Woodward built the the first harness for BD in 1986 or so....
Swami's were another reason you never really fell unless there was no other option...

KS
BadInfluence

Mountain climber
Dak side
Aug 14, 2007 - 11:43am PT
while climbing at Index, WA this guy walks up to us and looks at the guy i'm belaying and says "that guy is climbing a 5.12 in a swami! who is that guy?"

swami falls aren't bad with double ropes
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:30pm PT
Close to 60 feet for me.

One day in the Gunks I logged almost 200 feet of air time...the birth of the Philadelphia Flyer!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 14, 2007 - 12:47pm PT
Bowline on a coil is how I learned to tie in; abandoned that for 1" swami as soon as I could,
but the bowline has still been a good trick from time to time when for some reason you've got a rope but no harness.

Took few leader falls in my bowline on a coil days, good thing because they were often easy routes with lots of ledges to hit.
Longest fall on a 1" swami was about 35' on the Salathe route up on Half Dome.

A few pics:

1" swami, goldline rope, hiking boots. Jeff Genest in Sespe Gorge, ca. 1967.



A year later we'd upgraded to perlon and Robbins shoes; still 1" swami.
John Byrd somewhere in the Valley, ca. 1968.



2" swami was a big improvement. This one was a twin to the one Leslie is wearing in the favorite photo Tarbuster posted earlier.
They were given to us as a wedding present by Joe and Betsy Herbst; Betsy had embroidered them with our names.
What's Up in Boulder Canyon, 1975.



jstan

climber
Aug 14, 2007 - 02:00pm PT
Here I thought everyone on ST uses hemp and the bowline
on a coil. What have we got here, stealth kids?

I do find rappelling on a swami gets easier if you back it up
with a new technique called the dulfersitz.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 03:01pm PT
Chiloe,
That is a very interesting angle you have there on What's Up, is that photo taken from rappel?

We started with the one-inch swami's too. Some of the wraps always seemed to tighten up too much around the waist and get a little constricting, while the slack would gather at the wrap with the knott and hang down like a loop. Pretty goofy.

Next up for me was the Whillans harness, which seemed like too much stuff, then the 2 inch swami felt like an improvement with a really nice snug comfortable fit and it provided an aesthetic minimalist tie in which was all about not falling as has been stated above.

Can you still buy a butt bag?

In 1981 I guided the east face of Washington column, leading every pitch free. I had two Navy SEALs in tow; Dag cleaned the entire route, while Jimmy free jugged every single pitch. They said it was way more exciting than killing guys, but that's another story. I wore a 2 inch swami, but I had this really cool three point belay seat made by some guy in Telluride, whose little sewing operation I believe was called First Lead. It had really short clip loops, not the long ones, so that when you clipped it shut it gathered tightly, I used it only for hauling and it worked perfectly. It was a nice combination, the 2 inch swami for climbing and a form fitting belay seat for hauling.

I used the same set up that year on the Salathe Wall.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 14, 2007 - 03:07pm PT
That is a very interesting angle you have there on What's Up, is that photo taken from rappel?

No longer sure about this, but I think the photog had just scrambled up along the left side of the cliff.
I was a little bit proud of the lead because it was an onsight in borrowed EBs;
I didn't know the route's name or grade.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 14, 2007 - 03:28pm PT
Tying in with the rope around the waist on a 5.11 in Joshua tree called Elusive Butterfly:



My all-time favorite 2 inch swami picture,
Ron Kauk on Super Crack of the Gunks:

LongAgo

Trad climber
Aug 15, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
50 footer off lieback pitch of El Camino Real, long ago, on final reaching move out of long lieback corner. Lieback crack pinches off on front edge so pitons sounded good going in but were only trapped at the neck, pivoting and pulling out as I zoomed by.

I wound up hanging horizontally above a mountain mahogany bush and ledge staring at partner Bob Kamps, hand pretty bloody from whapping my hammer in the fall. I rested awhile, then went back up, trying to find better piton spots. Not sure I did, as I made it on second attempt without a fall.

Since my ribs and back were OK, maybe we can conclude long falls allow the rope to absorb much of the fall energy, versus the bod. Shorter falls, then, may be the more jolting.


Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 15, 2007 - 04:50pm PT
"I'm guessing only 10% could tie a bowline on a coil"

I'm pretty sure the rabbit goes around the tree, then down the hole. Or is it the other way around? In another life I did some sailing, and learned how to do a bowline around my waist, with one hand. Sailors know knott tricks that climbers often borrow.

I wonder how many thought they were tying a bowline on a coil, and were actually tying a bowline with a coil, i.e. an elaborate slip knott?

Ditto jstan on the body rappel, carabiner brake, hip belay, etc - they're adequate or better, and all but complete novices should know them.
LongAgo

Trad climber
Aug 15, 2007 - 06:30pm PT
Oops. Forgot to say El Camino Real is at Tahquitz, though many probably knew already ...

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 15, 2007 - 06:47pm PT
35 footer off Hair Lip at Suicide. EBs, rack hanging from a 1" knotted sling hanging over my shoulder and lots of youthful enthusiasm. Good stuff. I think the only reason why my lower back never got f-ed up is that I spun around in mid air and slammed onto by back onto the lower angled dihedral below (Hot Buttered Rump?) and slid about 15 more feet. I think that absorbed some of the impact. Of course I was shirtless.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
In the mid '70s I took the big one on that Apron route called Tightrope while wearing a swami. Don't know haw many feet but it was a lot. My belayer reeled in a bunch of slack but it felt like I was falling forever. Who knows...maybe 100'? Whatever. I don't really count that one because it was so low angle. Somehow I managed to not tumble. I took the ride in a pair of the original stand up shorts and my EB's. Damn things were smoking when I stopped sliding.

Later that year I took the 40-footer on Jules Verne in Eldo while wearing a swami...twice. Went out a bought a Whillans and returned the next week and bagged it. This time I didn't fall. Don't know if I was motivated by the crotch strap or what. I wore that Whillans for almost 10 years and later reproduced despite having logged lots of air time in it.

Mal
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 15, 2007 - 07:40pm PT
I'm sure there were lots of longer ones, but the original Coonyard Route on the apron scored a 70 foot slide off me in the piton days. Last of the 5.9 pitches, which I think would be about pitch 4 or 5 from the top of Monday Morning. Being off route (how did one ever know?), missed the ankle-breaker ledge. Consequence was, we didn't make Glacier Point that day (that was the plan), but did Higher Spire the next day, so I guess we weren't too damaged.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 15, 2007 - 09:22pm PT
maybe ten to fifteen feet max
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Aug 16, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
Rich,
I know Kamps usually used a single strand of rope around his waist. I never saw him use a swami, so I'm wondering if Chouinard didn't have the same on his big fall in the Tetons? Or maybe Chouinad was already more into the mountaineering thing and had an early harness of some sort? Wasn't the biggest part of that Chouinard fall mostly a tumbling/slide down some big snow slope? I have a few mental pictures but can't recall now.

In the days of one-inch swamis and single loop of rope around waist, the mentality was to get the mind as far as possible away from the gear and rather focused on the climbing, to rely upon oneself instead of the gear. I felt harnesses made it so comfortable and easy to fall, that it gave certain people a false sense of safety. It almost made them relaxed about the idea of falling, a kind of psychological invitation to fall. I wanted everything to say to me that I had better not fall. I wanted it to be painful to fall, so that I never would (unless relatively near some decent protection).

Also, Rich, I have never heard of tying those swami loops below the hammer holster. Maybe that was the better deal, though I saw someone doing that once and thought it was lack of knowledge or something. Of course I saw a guy chalking up his shoes one day too, and all sorts of other things. A morning, while standing at the start of T2, some guys walked by draped with about 50 big Friends. I asked what they were going to climb, and they replied, "Ruper" (5.8, mostly all fixed pitons), so strange things always were happening and made me turn away in fear and not look, such as the swami under the holster... How was I to know that might be good? Yet wouldn't that change the center of gravity, and in a fall you might be dumped head first?

My thought always was that if I fell I wanted to go feet first and not head first. In the earlier prototypes of harnesses everyone to a man who fell were turned upsidedown at the point the rope caught them, some missing ledges or outcrops with their heads by inches, and there were lots of miracles right before my eyes with people just barely surviving... I hated harnesses. They seemed too easy, and I always only climbed with a swami, even now (but for some cases).

There are a few climbs I have conceded are best with a harness, for example, where if you fall you're out in space, away from the wall, and too far up the pitch to be lowered back to the belay. A little thinking decides those. I led quickly once over the final roof on Country Club Crack, in blazing summer heat, and stopped at that knee lock for a short rest, suddenly realized I was about to pass out from the heat. That was scary, because if I fell I would have been hanging from my swami and too far up to be lowered anywhere. Fortunately I held onto consciousness, but that taught me climbs of that sort might be best with a harness.

It's all in how you own the technique of your choise, how you master it. I can't imagine any climb within my ability I couldn't do with a swami and enjoy it. Every wall in Yosemite I did, every off-width, the Diamond, the Diagonal, climbs in the Black Canyon, Royal Gorge, Lumpy, England, Italy, everywhere I ever climbed were done with a swami, but for a tiny handful (after my mom bought me a harness once for Christmas, not knowing I hated them. I began to kind of like the gift and used it some, on more overhanging routes).

I can't imagine doing any difficult off-width in a harness, as you need to be able to slide upward, without ropes and loopes and buckles and things catching on little knobs and other rough spots or protrusions. It's so easy, as Tar said, to turn the rope to one side, out of the way, using a swami.

My longest fall was on the East Face of Ship's Prow on Longs Peak, maybe 30 feet? My partner, Stan Shepard, was below an overhang and couldn't see me. I had aided up an overhanging dihedral and then started free on steep rock. I was a 14 year old kid, mind you, and at one point hammered in a piton that bottomed out. It wasn't any good, but I didn't want to waste energy trying to hammer it out. So I went on. Then I realized the climbing was too hard, there were no more holds, so I started back down and, forgetting, grabbed that piton which promptly pulled out, and a-sailing I went. As I flew down through the air, I heard Stan yell, "You don't have to yank it, I'll give you slack." On that disconcerting note, and just as the rope finally did come tight (he must have finally realized what was happening), my first finger of my right hand randomly fell through the eye of a piton I'd place and not clipped. I came to a jolting stop, my finger catching me and nearly tearing my shoulder out of its socket. There I was, hanging by one arm extending above my head, and feeling incredibly stupid... and rightfully so.
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2007 - 02:32am PT
Thanks Pat,,more history for the super T.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 17, 2007 - 03:52am PT
Me on the Nose 1981

Scout 2

Trad climber
sac
Aug 17, 2007 - 06:25am PT
I think a 30 footer on the apron, swami tied to goldline. it seemed like it would never stop streching.

But the one story I remeber hearing around the valley around 79-80 was about a guy on the nose.
tied in to a swami , using the old paper bag, in the middle of the night. thought he was tied in short.








leaned out and took a 50-60 ft fALL OFF the ledge with his pants around his ankels.



any one else here anything like that?

I think I went out and bought a forest harness shortly there after.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 17, 2007 - 09:47am PT
"I know Kamps usually used a single strand of rope around his waist. I never saw him use a swami, so I'm wondering if Chouinard didn't have the same on his big fall in the Tetons? Or maybe Chouinad was already more into the mountaineering thing and had an early harness of some sort? Wasn't the biggest part of that Chouinard fall mostly a tumbling/slide down some big snow slope? I have a few mental pictures but can't recall now.

1. I find that I can't recall how Kamps tied in when I climbed with him, but I'm almost positive that Chouinard was wearing a swami and credited it with cushioning his fall.

2. I'm also nearly positive that Chouinard didn't have more than a swami, i.e. a harness of some sort; harnesses really weren't on the horizon yet in 1958.

3. Chouinard's fall was the opposite of a tumbler; he fell on an overhanging pitch and didn't hit anything on the way down. He didn't come out of it unscathed however---his piton hammer gouged his leg.

"Also, Rich, I have never heard of tying those swami loops below the hammer holster. Maybe that was the better deal, though I saw someone doing that once and thought it was lack of knowledge or something."

I learned it from Chuck Pratt, who was notable, as a valley superstar, for his kindness to noobs like me. Perhaps it never caught on much, but it made hanging and falling a lot more comfortable.
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Aug 17, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
Thanks, Rich. Pratt knew what he was doing. It does seem logical, when you think about it, to have that swami lower (less crushing on the mid-section), though I still wonder if that wouldn't change the center of gravity and make one tend to fall head first or be turned head first when the rope came tight in a fall. But in other actions, apart from falling, it would be much more comfortable, such as leaning out on a belay, or prusiking, or rappelling. I do recall pushing my swami down a bit when doing a rappel with it.

Also yes I've just spoken with Bonnie Kamps, and she says I am right... in that Bob never used a swami. Certainly every time I climbed with him, it was a single loop of the climbing rope around his belt line. I'm sure Hig would confirm that.

And way back when I was beginning, around 1959, in Boulder, there were people who had some version of a harness they'd picked up on while visiting Europe or something. It went up into a type of chest harness deal, as I recall. They were of no interest to me, because I quickly met Layton who had no use for them.

Incidental to all this, Bob Kamps also always climbed in a pure, ground up style. Some people have noted that he got into sport routes later in life, but they neglect to mention he did those too in a pure ground-up style (pure, but for the fact that there were bolts in place on those routes he didn't put up).

Thanks again, Rich, for learning so many things here. I wish I could get a clear picture of that horrendous fall Chouinard took. I think I heard several differnt stories about it. I should have asked Bob... Higgins is onto something, though, when he talks about the rope absorbing much of the impact. It might be a longer fall is more comfortable than a shorter one, providing you don't hit something...

Keven (Warbler), your story of Dale falling off the upper Catchey Corner reminds me of the day (1975) I was with Erickson and Breashears, climbing that route. David was in tremendous shape and was storming up that second pitch. He put in a number one stopper with the thinnest, smallest perlon sling, and up there where it gets steeper, he stopped on a foothold rest. He was fiddling with putting in another nut and had trouble getting it in with one hand. Impatiently, he entirely forgot he was using his other hand to hold him in and let go with that other hand, the silliest of mistakes, in order to get the nut in. Off he flew. That tiny nut held, by a miracle. The real story is the psychic flash I had about him falling. Erickson had taken the belay, and I had strolled over on the ledge to its west end to scope out the rappel anchors for when we went back down. Suddenly I had this "vision" or something that David was falling. I walked the fifteen feet (or was it more) back to Erickson and put both my hands on the climbing rope, reaching as high as possible in order to pull in rope. Erickson looked at me as though I had lost my mind or something, when suddenly David fell. I instantly pulled in a whole lot of rope and with my hands helped give him a perfect dynamic belay. Had I not done that, we speculated, the little nut would have pulled... and David would have gone past up probably a hundred feet, if Jim could catch him before he hit the ground. David was in a one-inch swami. Of course he was chuckling, mildly embarrassed but unfazed, and immediatley went right back up and led it solidly...
Chris Wegener

Trad climber
St. John, Virgin Islands
Aug 26, 2007 - 03:29pm PT
I too am late to this party.

I fell eighty feet off of Lithophilliac in JT in 69. I was aiding the route without enough gear and I was only leaving the pins when they were just tipped in. Suddenly I realized the rock was moving up and I was off. I seemed to fall forever, fortunately the route is steep and one of the few climbs in JT that is tall enough. John Wolfe caught me on a hip belay when a leper z pin I had left in the horizontal held.

We called it a day and went home. I was sore for a week and then off to Vietnam. I came back to climbing and it never bothered me though I never did feel the same about aid climbing after that.

Regards,
Chris
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 26, 2007 - 04:27pm PT
great thread - amazing stories!

a bit of drift...

RE:
"Please do not ask why we didn't think to install leg-loops permanently."

when I started making leg-loops in the early '80's a lot of the guys I asked about them, while showing them the product, said they were simply too concerned with getting their huevos pinched, or worse. In the beginning leg-loops were a slow mover.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Aug 26, 2007 - 07:28pm PT
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:07pm PT
It was my belief at the time ('88) that you'd get hung up in the squeeze with legloops on Lucille. I took numerous 20 footers on a three inch misty buckle swami; each one included lowering, swinging, and making 5.10 moves back to the belay.
live and learn.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 26, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
RE:
"you'd get hung up in the squeeze with legloops"

this was the number two voiced resistance I encountered to leg-loops, before they became standard.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 26, 2007 - 10:10pm PT
the built in gear-loops were radical enough (but the robust padded swami caught on well) and I fully understood the attitude that prevailed in Yosemite regarding the need for simplicity and clean lines, I was of a similar mindset.

But there is something really aesthetic about wraps of 2" webbing, isn't there?



Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Aug 26, 2007 - 10:18pm PT
I used to run a pretty thin swami.... this one is perhaps a single strand of 10mm.


Biggest ripper??? Probably Gold Dust/Duster in the Valley.... from just before the chains to hanging horizontal 2ft off the ground. Maybe 40+ feet of air. Probably in a 2" swami, no loops. Pulled some pro. Never really liked the loops, nor do I now. Was using a swami, no loops for a lot of last season.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 26, 2007 - 10:23pm PT
classic shots Russ,
Watusi always said leg-loops gave him that "trussed up" feeling - I have to agree.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Aug 26, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
This ain't gonna be that comfy in a minute... Buttfukelman getting ready to rip out of Squatters Right in JT. Classic 2" swami with Eiger biners as the connection.

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 26, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
Greg Epperson climbing in Baja in an early unpadded FROG swami
Epperson photo
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 26, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
an appropriate use of leg-loops - Greg Epperson at work
Epperson photo
jack herer

climber
veneta, or
Aug 27, 2007 - 12:04am PT
Real question... what is the correct way to tie, and then tie into a swami with 2" webbing? Just one wrap, a water knott and 2 biners?

Got a bunch of 2" webbing and would like a light harness for those 5.6 multis and the like.
mingus

Trad climber
Grand Junction, Colorado
Sep 1, 2007 - 08:48pm PT
What hilarious stories. These are priceless!

I took a couple of falls on a swami...the first was thirty feet on Pat Ament's "Pool of Blood" in Eldorado. But I have to admit to 'cheating' when it comes to the discomfort of hitting the bottom of the line where the swami sucks up around your kidneys and ribcage, because I landed on my back in the talus before the rope caught up with me. When I recovered consciousness I threw all the experimental protection devices on the market at the time(pre-camming) into the trees below.

The next time I fell on a swami was in Boulder canyon. It was around 25 feet, but I cheated on this one as well, the old pin pulled, and at 20 feet I hit a ledge with the full impact on my coccyx and then I pitched over the last five feet onto the swami. So I guess I have only fallen around five feet on my swami. Man did it hurt!

In the 70's when you got your hands on a copy of Climb! Colorado or Yosemite Climber, you saw images of Roger Briggs on Jules Verne, or Ron Kauk on the Bircheff-Williams, and you thought who on earth needs leg loops? Those guys were the 'bad-asses' you wanted to emulate. What do I know? I only fell five feet onto that strapping that knocked the wind out of me. I sure am glad they have these things called 'harnesses' now! Thanks for all the stories.

How do we ever survive 'teenagerhood'? MingusManyMules
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 4, 2007 - 05:32pm PT
In ~'74 my cousin Ken and I ditched high school and went to Suicide to climb. I was psyched to climb Ten Carot Gold so off we went. I was one inch from the end of the crux traverse on the first pitch, tried a step through move and skated. I slid about 30-35 feet before he stopped me. I was unhurt, not even any road rash and we were able to finish the route.
Seems every time I ditched school to climb something sketchy happened!

Roy, who is that beautiful young girl in Tuolumne?
Phil56898079

Boulder climber
New Mexico
Sep 4, 2007 - 08:34pm PT
25 feet. My glasses came off. My belayer was using a hip belay. He caught me with one hand and my glasses with the other. I flipped over and hit my head. After that I never used the leg loops again -- only the swami.

You know, I lived in France for a long time, and in my group of partners, if you didn't give a dynamic belay, we wouldn't climb with you. Neither would we climb with anyone belaying sitting down or not watching. And we thought twice about letting anyone using a grigri belay us.

I only boulder now, but on the rare occassions I come across some climbers and I wrap the rope around my waist, I get a kick out of how they react. I really feel for the new generation. At least we had an informal apprenticeship program that worked. (And at least the guides still teach properly in France.)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 4, 2007 - 10:17pm PT
Dave,
The girl upthread: that is Helga Brown.

As late as '87, she & I took a trip to Canyonlands and were still doing everything in our swamis. We ran into Earl Wiggins & Katy Cassidy and Earl was impressed that we were such hold outs with the 2" tubular tie in method. I just thought it was the right thing to do.

I took a couple 30+ foot whippers in the Cali Needles in the 2" swami. One fall which I executed, we dubbed the "human copperhead maneuver". We were doing the first ascent of Duty Now for the Future, 1983, Lechlinski was belaying and I was heading out right from the steep right facing corner, and angling up underneath a flake on the head wall of Davy Jones Locker. Mike had put in a bolt slightly right of the corner and in his typical nonchalant style: “You got the bolt and all you got to do is motor up to the base of the flake.” While negotiating that stretch of rock, I chose a path that was well, a bit too... steep or incorrect or something, and then I peeled out of there, going for good air, fisrt plunging and then swinging sidewise in a big arc, slamming back into the corner. ‘Tore a good-sized hole in my Levi's, put a big raspberry on my hip and sort of tweaked my jaw. I think we put in another bolt for that section before we continued, and negotiated it via a slightly more auspicious path.

‘Took another pretty good winger during the first ascent of West Side Story on the west face of The Magician, also in the Needles; this was a route right of Liquid Sky, which we had finished earlier that summer.

These were steep face climbs, steep enough to warrant using hooks for some of the bolt placements. A pitch or two off the deck, I left the belay, underclinging and laybacking a 5.8 flake; after that I headed out into a steeper section of rock, with decent features for 5.9/10 climbing, I was a ways out, and it was time to drill, but I couldn’t let go to drill, and the only hook placement I could find was a tiny little flake no bigger than a thumbnail and it was just thick enough to except the tip of a Leeper flat. It also had to be waited at a 45° angle, so it was pretty tricky to get in the bolt without disrupting my stance, while leaning diagonally off the tiny flake and standing on smears. When I finished the hole I pushed the bolt in with my thumb very carefully, then as I slowly cranked down with the wrench to tighten the hanger into the rock, the flake snapped and I swung on to the bolt. We were getting pretty good at drilling and sometimes we’d get greedy and try to do a whole pitch, consecutively putting in the bolts without returning to the belay for a rest, so with this in mind I proceeded up some more terrain and when I began to feel a little bit run out, having pushed plenty far out, I found a stance: pretty steep, a bit smeary for the feet again and I started drilling away, but things weren't going so well: the drill bit was dull and it began binding and I started complaining. I was about ready to pitch off my weary stance, when Mike shouted: “quick I'll put a Leeper point and a fresh bit on to your haul line and you can pull it up, smack the hook in the hole and start over. It worked. Then after completing that bolt placement, I continued climbing and got about 15 or 20 feet out, started crimping & laybacking a diagonal edge, opting to point my right toe down along the edge, when my foot popped and I sailed out of there for 30/40’. I banged my ankle a little bit, and I was pretty shook up. That was it for me on that route; I lowered to the ground where Mari took a good look at my rattled nerves and packed me a bowl.
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Sep 5, 2007 - 09:56am PT
I took a 100 footer on a swami once. It was a super run out slab route, so I didn't hit the end too hard.

I also took about a 30 footer factor 2 on a single 1/4" bolt belay once. That was way, way back. Upside down and backwards. Scared the crap out of me.

Duane Raleigh caught both of those. I am forever grateful. On the hundred footer, he reeled in a lot of slack and caught me with two hands. Said it was a soft catch because all of the skin that I lost really slowed me down.

I know of others in that range. No problem. Swamis were cool. You could sleep in the things and wake up in the morning and go climbing.

I never bought into leg loops until my first wall. We had butt bags, but those things were literally a pain in the ass.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 5, 2007 - 11:25am PT
Yes Roy, I remember her now. You guys were an item for quite awhile.
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Nov 11, 2007 - 08:55pm PT
As I mentioned in Bachar's baseball thread, I took a 35' (to 45') footer off of Bachar's "Pinky Paralysis" (or "Great moments in Baseball") in the late 70's. Pat Timson and I had gone up there hoping to cruise the steep little bugger. I ended up falling at the crux, and spun out into space backwards pulling 4 or 5 of my pieces, leaving only the two (or three) fixed pins on the belay.

When I stopped, I was spinning in circles under the roof. Boy cracked ribs sure do hurt for a long time, don't they.
Ricardo Carlos

Trad climber
Off center, CO.
Nov 11, 2007 - 10:30pm PT
The fall that hurt was not the longest and it was with bowline on a coil as I forgot my swami. Rectum Roof and the crack was wet with grass growing in it. Cracked ribs had to switch to a Whillans.
Side note my oldest daughter was looking at pictures and seeing the Whillans harness commented dad couldn’t that really hurt you.
Having to take off my Whillans harness to crap sent me to Noreen’s Foresta pump house( The hottest Yosemite Bus driver ever) to sew a padded swami leg loop combo. Then climbing up a tree in her yard and jumping to see how it worked.
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Nov 11, 2007 - 11:00pm PT
hashbro: Ouch, Broke ribs even ?

and ... 'Swami' belts are out of style?
I was out today at RR with a local "Scary Larry" DeAngelo.
Nicnamed such by a more contemporary climber that was hoob'd out by Larry's swami and hip belay.
I am wearing a harness these days unless it's short top rope or way, way easy.

This past spring I met and climbed with Larry for the first time.
I had brought both swami and harness with me.
But when I saw him putting on a Swami I did as well.
But I don't bother wearing when climbing with him anymore.
It seems my good graces are forever jeopardized due to my reticence to give up my 'bucket' of 'white courage'.

A couple weeks ago Larry and I were out.
We did something he had picked out on the "Blood Wall" he wanted to do.
I backed off a section and he went to have a go and took a 15 footer and smacked his ribs on rounded arete.
Later he said he thought his ribs hurt from the swami, but I told him "no way, it was from way he hit the arete."

I will tell Larry about this thread, maybe he will share one 'harendo' he told me about, that he took at Tahquitz, back in the day.

I did get a good trick out of Larry.
All these years and I never thought of it.
For rap's pull your chalk bag down under yer arse and use it for a surrogate leg loops.

Back east,77, maybe 78,
A guy named Tom Callahan and I
(no, not the well known Cal)
Went over to Whitehorse ledge to do a route called 'Sleeping Beauty'
Alain Comeau etal had done the route the year before and it had seen little traffic.
It got it's name from the fact that the route was found while rap'n and it was buried under a huge, deep swath of the big fat 'Rock Stripe' lichen. The route goes up a good corner then belay off a small tree (that was an awesome couch), and the fun pitch went straight up a splitter 5.8 hand crack to a welded, fixed angle and ended. The crux section was a long, ascending, left finger traverse with bad pro.
I was laying on my back on the tree belaying Tom as he set off. He started into the traverse got about 40' from the fixed peg, with maybe 3 or 4 crap ass, #1 - #2 stoppers in horizontally.
He peeled and 'all in all' was not that scary of a fall.
About a footer 40'tr down a super steep slab.
I got two good yanks in and just rolled off the tree.
He ripped all the wired's back to the fixed peg.

But man was it impressive!
The climb had been cleaned on rappel, but only a few feet below what was needed to clean the climb.
Tom left about 30' of ski tracks down this streak of 'Rock stipe.
There was huge a cloud of lichen dust in the air.

At days end we talked about it and I think my ribs were more sore than his from hitting the end of a few feet in a static tie in.
But he was definately got a bigger adrenyline dose than I.


La Concita, maybe '80 / 81'


Squamish Aug 07'

Same Blue swami
(but now when I use it, I tie in through my chalk bag and webbing pants belt, cuz I 'escared now I oldman li dat)

I had a Whillan's as well. Only used it a few times then I gave it away.


ps. earlier in the Thread someone mentioned 'Paragot' (nic' paraquate) French, climbing shoes, that they had bought for $10.00 of a Frenchman in Camp, during the early 80's. I must have patronized the same guy, I did the same.
Risk

Mountain climber
Minkler, CA
Nov 12, 2007 - 12:39am PT
I’ll confess that I fell/swung/scraped about 12-15 feet on a simple Sunnyside Bench climb about 1969. I even yelled out “falling!” knowing it was happening before it did. I was over confident having recently completed Wayne Merry’s “basic rock climbing” class out of one of the old Yosemite Lodge lounge closets next to the door (that was it for YMS then). My dad was with me and my climbing buddy, and I suffered a shiner and torn jeans. I cannot recall another swami incident.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Nov 12, 2007 - 01:16am PT
Took a few falls up to thirty feet back in the 60's and 70's on a swami, on rock climbs, with no damage. Then fell 60 feet or more when a cornice broke on Mt hunter in Alaska in '76. No damage to the ribs but I broke my ankle in the fall, and Mike Kennedy and my cousin George had to sheppard me down 4,000 feet.
In my wall climbing period between about '67 and '73, did about 50 wall routes, all with swamis and never felt the need for a harness.

-Jello
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 12, 2007 - 10:12am PT
Ice climbed in an old Forrest harness, but, learned to rock climb in a 2" red swami (still have it). I don't recall ever taking a long fall in it, maybe 10 feet at the most.

Hooked up with a guy in Boulder Canyon in the summer of '84, I think. He tied in with a swami, I was belaying with a hip belay. He started up a 5.9, which I was a tad nervious to follow, but, for some reason, headed off on a much harder route. Didn't get much pro in, and, popped off. Took a 50 or so footer. Hurt a rib and his foot. I carried him back to the road. Said he'd probably be ok by the next day, and, if I was still around, maybe we could hook up again... Strange feller. My bet is he didn't get out of his sleeping bag the next day, but, who knows.

-Brian in SLC
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Nov 12, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
I already posted a rendition of this amazing story (elsewhere), but this thread certainly deserves another round.

In approximately 1972 or 73' on a weekend trip to Idyllwild I met a fellow named Bill Houghton who asked if I'd belay him on the Guillotine at Suicide. At that time 5.8 was over my head and I was had to get a chance to climb the route with an "expert" on the sharp end. Little did I know how wrong I was...?

Upon beginning his lead Bill seemed a bit agitated which even back then seemed non-fortuitous. Bill was of course prepped out with a 1' tubular awami, ratty EBs and a chaotic rack of Troll, Forest and Dolt gear. Ten feet up the route Bills sewing machine leg told me that something was beginning to go very wrong.

As Bill reached the 40" point, my neighbor, cohort and freckle-faced teen Randy Vogel strolled up the trail and stopped to see what the concern was above. "He seems confused,” I told Randy. Randy replied, "he's off route already."

Bill was now obviously off route and continued climbing away form the established line. "Hey dude", we yelled, "go right, go right." Bill did not say a word and continued to the left. Randy and I stared upwards beginning to worry. Mumbles seemed to be coming from the leader above but we could not figure out what he was saying.

At the 60" level we heard sounds more akin to a moan than a mumble. "Dude, you gotta go right" we yelled. At this point, Bill was separated from the correct line by a difficult flake. Suddenly Bill came into view, now actually grabbing onto the flake the constituted the some scary, hard and dangerous variation to the Guillotine. To our amazement, Bill grabbed onto some piece of fixed gear inside the flake, passed it and failed to clip it. Randy and I were stared up in astonishment and yell" Bill, clip the gear, clip the gear." He did not...

Bill was now way off route, and now was extremely run out above whatever piece of sketchy pro he had found many, many feet below. Randy came up to the belay ledge and grabbed onto the rope next to me. His eyes met mine in seriousness and the next moment we heard Bill let out an unprecedented and blood-curdling scream. "Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!!!!!!!!"

At that instant Randy and I both began yarding armloads of road past up and then we saw Bill sliding downward on the slab, bounding and screaming. More and more rope went through our hands as Bill shot toward us on the ledge. Then suddenly bill jerked to a stop, right above a gnarly block of rock that had he hit, would have turned a human body to mush.

Bill was upside down and still. Randy and I had pulled 50 feet of rope past our belay, just barely keeping Bill off the block and still alive. Randy I stood silently in shock.

Then just as suddenly, members of the San Bernardino Mountain Rescue team (nearby doing some training) scurried up to ledge, cut Bill's 1' swami, threw him in a stretcher and hauled him off to Hemet. Randy and I had no idea what had hit us (or Bill for that matter) and tried to get some climbing in that day, though we were quite shaken.

Amazingly, Bill was pronounced alive and healthy at the hospital and hitched back up to Humber that evening. Largo may remember that Bill became a sudden and short-lived celebrity for his big fall and was termed (by Largo) "Acapulco" Bill for his massive 120" cliff dive. Folks might also remember that Largo was seen schmoozing around with Bill for several weekends in a row, since now both were part of the elite club of Illywild celebs.
TYeary

Mountain climber
Calif.
Nov 13, 2007 - 01:16am PT
I took a long slider on the Fiend at Suicide back in the mid seventies. From the last bolt , instead of following obvious good holds up and right to the belay ledge, I climbed straight up into no mans land. All right for about 15 feet or so and I was almost home free, when my EB's lost their magic. I could smell burning rubber as I sailed back toward the belay. All was fine untill I poped my ankle out as I slid over the chicken head. All in all, about 35-40 feet. The resulting raps and hike out to get my ankle pinned were anti-climatic. Ah, Swami Belts!
Tony
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 13, 2007 - 02:19am PT
To be honest it's been so long I can't remember, and it was probably on a bowline on a coil as opposed a swami. But then goldline was so damn stretchy anyway so I suspect that's why I don't recall anything significant happening.

There would be a lot less dogging going on if folks still wore swamis.
scuffy b

climber
The deck above the 5
Nov 13, 2007 - 02:10pm PT
I'm curious about this strategy of wrapping the swami below the
hammer holster, relying on the holster to keep the swami down and
away from the ribs.
What is to keep the holster down? Are you talking about putting
the holster on a belt going through the loops on your pants?
Wouldn't that mean that the crotch of your pants is what limits
the upward travel of the swami?
wild willy

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 13, 2007 - 06:51pm PT
Took a 40 footer on the Royal Arches in '72 (got off route somehow). I have alway been grateful to Bill Squires for catching me. I don't think he was using a belay device, just the rope around his waist as I remember. As I was sailing past him we looked each other in the eye. I was wondering if he would be able to stop me. The swami held up ok and didn't hurt me. However, I ended up with a giant 6" circle of skin taken off my hip and ass from sliding down the face.
Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Nov 13, 2007 - 10:45pm PT
In 76' I busted a knob right before the anchor on "Wrinkle in Time" . I remember pivoting out, dancing ineffectively with my feet and then I was away. Saw a big loop develop as I fell and then the swing at the end. Not sure how far... 80? maybe 100? I was using one of those home sewn 2" tubular swami belts. Remember those? The web looped into a five inch wide band and held in shape by three one inch web bars, then closed with one inch tubular in front. Nice to have Pope holding the string.
scuffy b

climber
The deck above the 5
Nov 14, 2007 - 01:25pm PT
Did you scrape the crap out of your nose on that one, Nick?
Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Nov 14, 2007 - 10:56pm PT
Yep, bout took half my schnoz off. One of the cool things about wearing a swami is you can turn around in it so that blood pouring off your nose will not get on your only clean shirt while your partners tie on another rope to lower you.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 10, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
I was doing a little research to polish up some of my recollections of climbing in the Needles of California.

Came across this gem; well worth a bump.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 10, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
I was locked up when this thread came and went. Although my longest fall on a swami belt was maybe 40 feet, it was a slide on the Apron and really shouldn't count.

More consequential was one I took on the first pendulum on In Cold Blood. I tripped, banged my back on a small dihedral, and leaned over just enough to spill the contents in my pockets, consisting of our one and only pocket knife and a bit of change. My partner couldn't stop laughing while I was stuck there, semi-asphyxiated. The laughter stopped a little later. Because of a delay from a storm, we didn't reach the extra-plush flat, sandy ledge to the right, and ended up spending a night in hammocks. Without a can opener, we discovered that opening cans with pitons in a hammock bivy can be tricky.

John
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Oct 10, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
77ish, Rainy Day Dream Away, belayed by Daryl Hatten, having trouble with hexes, gun it for the root at the top of the crux, root pulls, 65 feet to an ankle twisting turf touch as the rope finally tightens up on the swami. Daryl laughed his ass off and cackled, "Beckham, you're LIGHT!"
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Oct 10, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
It was 1975 ish, on that crag outside the valley with all those knobs. Matt Cox was leading a route while several of us were laying in the road below watching. He got off route and botched it somehow and he was off for a 60-70 footer, all air. I think he came down after that as he was pretty rattled.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Oct 10, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
I saw Matt take a whistler off of Magical Mystery Tour. With the rope strech, he went softly to the ground. Must of been 60 feet. Matt got a lot of air time.
TY
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 10, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
No kidding Tony?
I know you are not: that's a bad route to peel off ... from almost any point.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Oct 10, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
nice sswingin' fall off a drilling stance for the f/a of Clean Sweep. on Cathedral, NH

Swingin' down about 40' or so and the knot busted my lowest left rib.NICE


SECOND- on the f/a of Unwanted Guests- Whitehorse NH - A Vue, all the way over to Future Shock - first try and - see ya big swinger 40' for sure
DanaB

climber
CT
Oct 10, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
Coincidence: I had the same injury while climbiing at Cathedral. Forty foot fall. When I finally hit the rock the figure 8 knot was like a fist, broke three ribs. Harness for me after that.
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2013 - 02:20am PT
A bump for good stories. One of my first threads.
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Jul 18, 2013 - 02:39am PT
Fourth of July, 1983. It was swelteringly humid, but I got it in my head to get on Jack the Ripper on Cathedral Ledge. Jim Surrette had told me that if you run through the crux then you wouldn't pump out placing gear, and then you could throw in a cam when the crack widened to hands; it sounded reasonable at the time.

I cruised the crux sequence, but by the time I got to the wobbly hands I was sweating like a pig at a luau, and began greasing out. I had time to throw in a cam but chose the wrong size, and only two cams engaged. My hands slid out and I watched the two lobes of the rigid Friend expand and then POP, I was off on a 25 footer. I caught a sloping ledge as the rope pulled taught, and my Achilles hyperextended, shattering my ankle.

I lowered off and then went to cool it off in the Saco River before driving the hour and a half home. Some 4 hours later the pain became a bit much and the ankle was turning some fierce shades of grape, so I drove to the emergency room where they gave me an inflatable cast and crutches. The cast lasted 2 days, and on the third day I threw the crutches in the bushes on the walk from my dorm to class and hobbled around for months. The funny thing about the injury was that it hurt like hell to walk, but I could still face climb if I placed my foot just right and didn't bounce.

Seven weeks post injury I went to the Valley and had my best trip ever, although the approaches and descents still sucked until the next Spring.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 18, 2013 - 10:24am PT
This is an awesome thread!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 18, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Ahh the memories.....or are they nightmares?
I took the Big One after getting off route (traverse LEFT, dummy!) on Pywiack Dike route. My PAs (you younguns have NO idea how good your rubber is now) succummed to the pull of gravity and I slid, bounced and thrashed, about 60' counting rope stretch, nearly down to the third pitch belay stance!
I had leg loops tied in my swami. Helped keep me upright and reduced the load on my waist. Only had road rash, no real injuries.

I got really pissed at my two partners when neither of them would then lead the pitch! And one of them had led it a couple of times before. I went back a couple of years later in EB's and cruised it.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jul 18, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
As long as you don't take a shower, you can leave your swami on day and night. One year Deucey's grew into his flesh.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jul 18, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
And it can double as a cumberbund if you have any places that require formal attire.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 18, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
50'. almost decked on my first lead fall.
DanaB

climber
CT
Jul 18, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
About 30 feet.
When I hit the rock, the knot seemed to act like a fist, got two broken ribs.
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
Jul 18, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
I read a pretty gnarly recollection of a monster fall (I believe while traversing) at Tasmania's Ben Lomond. The guy slowly became aware that the jerks and swings he made in midair were timed perfectly with the ear-shattering screams of his belayer above.

I do not believe that the belayer (named Robert Frew) ever climbed again.

I'll have to dig the story out a guide book we've got... until then don't quote me on the particulars.
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Jul 18, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
I talked with Kamps after Chouinard's swan dive off the Sore Thumb way back then. He said he was belaying and the rope went through several pieces and he didn't even feel the impact, but saw Yvon flying past in swan dive position. It all turned out OK, of course.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Jul 18, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
I watched Matt Cox lead this nice looking lie-back on Tahquitz while i was climbing a route to the north called Finger Grip...5.7...? The route Matt was on looked 5.7 ish so i went back a week later and tried to lead it which turned out to be El Camino Real..I took a short whipper of maybe 10 feet on my 2 inch swami as my foot slipped while resting..I never thanked my friend Carl for catching me so thanks Carl...Later i tagged a road sign that said El Camino Real by adding 5.10 after it...RJ
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 05:19am PT
Bump
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jan 4, 2014 - 06:18am PT
Took a 30-40 footer, in 1966, in the Gunks.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jan 4, 2014 - 07:25am PT
Is it the 4" webbing we used to wrap around our waist? And tied with a bowline?

Too many falls to recount, but Butterfingers, 1976, gawd did that hurt.

EDIT
Then I learned to use leg loops.

Then Joe Brown harness came in, then the Robbins' harness and then…

Now I have a gyro-inflated semi-cobalt, with uranium backing…

EDIT
Eiger north face -1938 by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek - a couple of crampons and woolen clothes (and excuse me ladies) balls (cajones).

Swami belt? People like those did not worry about swami belts.

Like many of you I started out on gold line, boy could that stretch.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 4, 2014 - 10:17am PT
30 feet.....no problem.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jan 4, 2014 - 10:31am PT
Right Jim, but I will always be thankful that I was wearing a Whillans harness when I took the 100 footer on the Prow.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 4, 2014 - 10:35am PT
Saw you take that one duuddee!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:13am PT
I thought BITD of swami belts the leader wasn't supposed to fall.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:38am PT
So did I Steve.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:48am PT
What the hell---how many people were standing around that spotting scope BITD? John Dill was watching me thru a scope, when I took the plunge, but it seems there were quite a few others watching as well.
The reason I took such a whipper is that I had tied off many of the stacked pins with nylon shoe string cord. They all snapped, leaving the pins in the rock--a good thing. It was dumb using the light cord in hindsight, but I was trying to reduce leverage on the pins. Lucky Royal R. 1/4 bolt held at the end!
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jan 6, 2014 - 08:39am PT
Never saw it Steve but I heard about it. Lucky you.

And yes Whillans harness, my first one. I meant to say Don Whillans, not Joe Brown. See several glasses of wine dulls one thoughts.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 6, 2014 - 09:45am PT
Don't wanna talk about it any more.
One hundred feet, it made me sore.
The ankle healed and then I swore
To climb with Skip Name nevermore.
I fell off the top pitch of Lenna's Lieback to near ground on a bowline/coil. I'd loaned Skip the Dip my swami. Jerk.
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
I just have to bump this every once in awhile ...

A great thread from 2007 when I first found this Super Topo thing and started asking questions.

Lots of great stories here. Just click ' show all' and enjoy the history.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Aug 27, 2016 - 09:18pm PT
jstan

climber
Aug 27, 2016 - 09:37pm PT

You know we males think we have the skinny on how everything should be. Minutes after she was born my daughter looked up at me and seemed to ask, "just what is your function at this little ceremony?"

I didn't have an answer. Now I do. My job is to make it possible and necessary for you to do what you decide you need to do.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 23, 2018 - 05:26pm PT
From GOING UP, Tales Told Along the Road to El Capitan
 Joe Fitschen, Whole Tone Press, New York, 2012

Page 332 Invention of the swami + Chouinard's massive fall in the Tetons
Chouinard showed up with his new aluminum carabiners and a supply of hand-forged chrome-moly pitons and a tale he was reluctant to tell except that it had an important moral. Up until that time we all used the time-honored method of tying into the rope by wrapping it once around the waist and securing it with a bowline knot. Yvon, ever on the prowl for improvements, decided to wrap and tie a ten-foot piece of one-inch webbing around his waist and tie the rope into that. There were several advantages. The leader would have a few more feet of rope at his disposal to make it to that comfy belay ledge (in this regard, it was also around this time that we started to use ropes longer than the conventional 120 feet, eventually settling on 150 foot ropes; harder climbs meant fewer ledges farther apart). It was also nice to know that should you need it, you had an extra ten feet of webbing, twenty counting your partner's, that could be used for rappel anchors or slings. Most important, in the case of a fall, the webbing would distribute the force over a considerably greater surface area than a 7/16-inch rope. It was this advantage that Yvon's tale illustrated. He had been climbing in the Tetons with Kamps, and they were attempting a new route on a spire called the Crooked Thumb. The upper half of the north face is generally overhanging, a feature that made it attractive to Yvon and Bob.
As the story continues, we learn that this is where Chouinard falls over 150 feet. (75 feet out plus rope stretch.) I believe elsewhere it is listed as a ~160 foot fall.

The details of the actual fall are quite long, so I decided not to transcribe it.
For that, you'll have to read the book!
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Jul 23, 2018 - 08:20pm PT
Dayum Tar! If I were climbing with her I'd be happy to use a bowline on a coil. She is gorgeous.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 23, 2018 - 08:32pm PT
That's Helga, from 1987. Top of the Hobbit Book.
Here's her daughter, Claire, a few weeks ago on The Prow:

hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Jul 23, 2018 - 09:21pm PT
I (and Looking Sketchy There) held Acapulco Bill go 120 feet on the Gullotine at Suicide.

After we desperately pullied up 50 feet of rope while he was falling, he stopped 5 feet above the talus....and survived, and showed up at the crags the following day.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:38pm PT
Forgot my harness the other day doing some lead rope soloing. What we used to do.

Spencer Lennard

Trad climber
Williams, Oregon
Jul 24, 2018 - 01:40am PT
In the early years on a Saturday punctuated by10th grade in high school I got roped into belaying the obvious wingnut “bill” on the classic runout 5.8 flake the Gullitine at Suicide rocks.

Having just met him, I had a bad feeling about the whole thing. Bill started up the climb looking like he had read an article about climbing in Popular Science the week before and scavenged some gear from his climbing cousin Hector from Fresno.

Bill began up the sharp flake looking very uncentered on his feet. When he needed to lean left, he leaned right. When a perfect nut slot landed at face level, bill put his fingers in it and nervously climbed on. With a huge runout beneath him Bill desperately grabbed a fixed sling and gingerly climbed passed it without clipping in.

Randy, sittin on the ledge with me began to seem stressed. “Is he gonna clip something” he asked?

“I sure as hell hope so”, I replied just as Bill shuffled in a discombobulated way with a solid 50foot runout beneath him. Everyone at the base went quiet.

As Bill began to tremble at the 70 foot runout level, Randy got into belay position with me on the ledge, and prepared to move some rope quickly.

About that time we were hearing audible grunts from Bill, now 80 feet over the tables covered base.

I had to wonder what he was trying it prove...and had to ask myself why Inwas doing this rather that climbing the Flakes on Tahquitz with Roubidoux Jim a Wilson?

Just as that thought has entered my head I heard the first scream out of Bills mouth. He started sliding slowly, but the speed instantly increased to a brisk flesh grating speed, followed by another and louder scream....”Aaaaaaaaaasssaaa.”

Now traveling at a solid 50 mph and 80 feet about them deck, Randy and I kicked into action and began hauling as much rope as was sanely possible for us two mid-sized .wannabees.


By the time Bill had come to a stop, he dangled upside down, five feet above the the ugly talus.

More than coincidentally, a group with the Riverside Sarch and Rescue was directly below and kicked into action.They instantly cut Bill off of his lead rope, threw him in a stretcher and briskly shuttled him down the trail, and then down the road to the ER in Hemet.


As we were finishing breakfast and preparing to go climbing, up limps “Acapulco” Bill followed by superstar John Long to get some exponential fame points for the weekend.

Randy and I walked off to do a quick cruise of the technical and runout Rebolting Development, which we calmly cruised in perfect style.

We decided that we preferred smoothly climbing in the groove, rather than frenetically almost dying in an toxic internal adrenal bath (like the one Acapulco Bill was detoxing from right now.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 24, 2018 - 05:13am PT
20-30’ many times.

Another nickname, we used for that same tied webbing system, tied in leg loops and all. Only we called it a swiss seat, and used 21’ of webbing. Either we had a few extra wraps around us for climbing comfort or we were just fatter!

Even after harnesses came out I would use swamis In squeeze chimneys and other offwidth’s for clearenc sake.

On the first ascent of Lucille,’88, I wore a misty mtn 3” buckle swami with no leg loops, thinking to save clearance and afraid a legloop would get hung up in there. By that time I was regularly using commercial harnesses for other climbing.
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
Jul 24, 2018 - 05:30am PT
another nickname - sounds like we were on the same timeline. Bowline to glacier rig/harness to swiss seat to manufactured harness. Still have my original seatbelt harness.

You're right about know-it-all punks thinking a bowline is unsafe. Had a guy tell me I'd break my back. So I borrowed a harness and scampered up his "project" in my Vasque boots.

Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
Jul 24, 2018 - 04:50pm PT
Still have my 2” swami. I still used it on friction slabs.

Longest falls
30’ in the air (my partner couldn’t hear me and locked up the stitch plate) at the end of the pitch on Stirrup Trouble in the Gunks , so lots of rope out.

Longest fall on slab.. 45 ft. At Stone Mountain NC. Not sure a slow motion slide counts.

I remember getting a lecture from Jstan when I switched to a harness (he was still using 1” white stuff). He claimed you had a better chance of staying upright with a Swami and considering the last (short) fall I took on a harness flipped me upside down and I broke my helmet, there might still be some merit in that.
john hansen

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2019 - 12:12am PT
This one deserves a bump before every thing gets deleted.

Always enjoyed interacting with you fine people.
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Apr 16, 2019 - 12:53am PT
3 wraps of red 2" tube.

Impressed enough we came back and measured 72' with my lips just about able to kiss the dirt. All good clean air thankfully. I did have some sore ribs for a while. But scared me more than it hurt.

Long enough I had a LOT of time to mention I was falling and then think about it, seemingly a long long time! The adrenaline dump lasted the rest of the day.

And it all started with bomber pro 15 or 20' below me while I was reaching for the anchor. A bad belayer. You hear that Dave???? !!! Bad :) Although trotting backward did keep me off the ground....gotta thank you for that buddy!

Put a little safety back in "our program". I kept climbing in a swami for some time yet and still like them for the lack of phaff. Although after that one, no more untethered belays on the ground, fewer uses of a hip belay and better communication on what was "done" and off prior to actually clipping into the anchor. Truthfully? I had called "off" and had yet to clip. So excited to have freed the climb. Some how in my excitement and pump I simply fell off. Thinking back, in all the climbing I have done likely the most excitement ever on a rope.

Just realized I never went back to get a red point.
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