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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
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The first time I did The Grand Giraffe, it was about 1990, and it was with Paul Sibley. We decided to carry an extra rope and Paul and I had different ideas about how to do that. I suggested we trail it and he wanted us to have it coiled on our backs. Well, I thought that was a bit odd, because I was so used to trailing a rope in Yosemite, but heck, I figured we would do it the old man's way. We were pretty dis-combobulated on that climb and Paul called it the Mutt & Jeff show, but it went okay, we had a nice time.
So in the above picture, you can see we are trailing the second rope and at one point, we switched to just belaying with it as well, you know double rope technique, but we were never silly enough to climb with it on our backs.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
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Um, there you go Greg; that's why they call it the hidden hold.
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taco bill
Trad climber
boulder, co
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That pic makes me want to go do King's X again (with that hold). I certainly never found it and not because I didn't need it. That sucker is hard.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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The picture Tar posts above was our first climbing shot of the day. I wish I'd taken pictures of the Lower Ramp approach and the East Slabs descent, to post some other day on that "Walks Through the No-Falling Zone" thread. I used to hike those things causually all the time, but coming back decades later it struck me how unforgiving they might be, especially the descent. Slip up there and you'd fall forever. While I was thinking such thoughts a small foothold crumbled, one probably used a hundred times before.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
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From CLIMB!
This cannot be a photo from the first ascent: check the "modern" footwear.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Glad you sorted out that "James" thing..... good job so far.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Roy,
I don't think that's Paul in the King's X photo. I'm pretty sure. That photo wasn't taken during the first ascent, just some climbers later, but maybe Cox leading (very possibly). Cox was the master mind, if I recall, when he and Paul did the free ascent in 1971. Also, my experiece is different than yours on King's X. I've done it about twenty times, each time finding the crux to be, of course, the first bulge above the ground, but then higher getting up to the apex. By the time you find that hold out left, on the left side of the apex, as your face is right at the apex, it's about 5.5 or 5.6. The little moves below, down in that dark place below the apex, are more difficult, and strenuous because you need to hang by one hand with fingers in a lock, to set a nut, and it gets tiring. Then the stem out to the right is kind of smooth for the foot. Now with sticky rubber, that's easier. But going over the roof is trivial.
On the first pitch of Grand Giraffe, I won't ask why you're wearing a cowboy hat, but you're on a variation about half way between the right hand start variation of Super Slab and the actual first pitch of Grand Giraffe, the latter of which starts way up to the right of where you are in the photo.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 12:59pm PT
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The second pitch is fun.
You can see why some rate this climb 5.10A: modern climbers probably just clip the fixed pins and head straight up the fingertip layback, but if you step left you get more work with.
It was in that "more to work with" bit that Sibley and I began to show some coordination issues, but that's another story.
Here is Chiloe doing a fine job on the lead:
This is a hard pitch to photograph faithfully; below is the photo from Godfrey and Cheltons book:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
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I agree about the crux location of King's X Pat. When I did the route with Paul he made a big deal about the hidden hold; ha ha it doesn't really matter, but it is there.
I was probably off route on the first pitch of Grand Giraffe because I wear that hat and can't see so well with it, but it looks cool and it keeps the sun off my head.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
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Lisa is going to go for a run right now and I need to ride my bicycle with her, you know, for protection and stuff.
You guys talk amongst yourselves, maybe get something to eat, and I'll be back in a bit.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Good so far.
I figured the James reference was that Russ uses Henry James
to put himself to sleep.
I think I'd have neck and balance problems wearing a full hat
like that.
The Buffer and Poway method in the old days was to wear a cap so
you could turn it backwards when it started feeling like 5.10.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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The Buffer and Poway method in the old days was to wear a cap so you could turn it backwards when it started feeling like 5.10.
That's my method except the turn-around comes sooner, for less air resistance on 5.6.
Egged on by my young neice and nephew, I flew home from Colorado sporting a new look. Leslie said, "Where are you going to wear that in New Hampshire?"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 01:58pm PT
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Don't say I didn't warn yah...
Okay, maybe I didn't.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 01:58pm PT
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Chiloe took a nice shot looking down the second pitch:
Well here's a long easy connecting pitch, which gets you up to the crux off width section. I call it the couch pillow section (not really), but anyways, here I am looking for my car keys and mostly finding loose change:
And Chiloe following:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 02:24pm PT
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All righty then, here we are as the young’ns say getting to “the ‘bidness”.
So Larry, um, I mean Chiloe, before heading off on the lead made a statement that one needs to go up on such an endeavor with the proper amount of excuses ready at hand; you know, in support of a potential failure. Frankly, I think he was a little short on verbiage. So off he went anyhow and he was looking great, but just as he was getting into the crux, he realized he'd better come back to the belay and collect some crucial rationale, which was somewhat lacking given the task at hand.
Well, then it was my turn to go on up, by default really, as Chiloe was still working on his recall. It was risky, though, as I had no exculpatory mechanisms prepared: couldn't remember any. In fact, I couldn't think of any excuse why I shouldn't go up either. Might have something to do with the hippie lettuce; or perhaps the mine tailings up here Nederland where I live. So as it appeared I was in a bit of a bind, or rather about to get into one:
As it turns out, I got my knee in and things worked out AOK.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
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And then Chiloe did a fine job on follow:
This landed us on place called the Upper Meadow, where we thought it might rain, well not really but imagine that because there is opportunity for dramatic tension.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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but just as he was getting into the crux, he realized he'd better come back to the belay and collect some crucial rationale, which was somewhat lacking given the task at hand.
Our narrator kindly doesn’t mention any flailing, or whining that “This seemed easier 35 years ago!” which might have occurred.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Tarbuster and Chiloe, good stuff you guys.
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Inquiring minds want to know, did you rope up for the Lower Ramp? LOL
The first time I approached Ruper I was scared on that ramp. Slippery stuff.
Did it rain? Scampering off the Upper Ramp is sketch in wet conditions.
Boy oh boy, think of all the routes that start from that nice little area at the top of the Lower Ramp.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Inquiring minds want to know, did you rope up for the Lower Ramp? LOL
The first time I approached Ruper I was scared on that ramp. Slippery stuff.
Nope, we charged straight up like in days of yore.
Did it rain? Scampering off the Upper Ramp is sketch in wet conditions.
Yep, the Upper Ramp is another hike through a no-falling zone. I was noticing those more than I might have done 35 years ago (which is when I last climbed the Giraffe). As for what allegedly happened next, I'm waiting to find out too.
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