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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 31, 2007 - 06:18pm PT
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A long time ago I saw a movie about climbing the Naked Edge.
So long ago that some direct aid was used, even though the
climbers were top-notch.
Can anybody remember the climbers' names?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 31, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
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Wasn't that Whymper and Carel?
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2007 - 06:25pm PT
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Well-known Eldorado climbers, but I keep having memory problems.
Every time I almost remember, Duane Raliegh's name pops into my
head, and all is lost.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 31, 2007 - 06:27pm PT
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I saw one with Lynn Hill & Beth Bennet doing it around '79, but I'm sure you are referring to something earlier still.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 31, 2007 - 06:34pm PT
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Jeff Lowe and Mark Wilford climb it in Cloudwalker. I don't recall any aid.
JLP
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 31, 2007 - 06:39pm PT
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Bob Carmichael film with the muscle shots?
Was that Ferguson and Erikson?
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2007 - 06:42pm PT
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Yes, Ron,
Duncan Ferguson and Jim Erickson. The muscle shots and all.
Thanks for the effort, folks. I assume those other movies are
also good ones.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 31, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
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Anybody got that one that could make a dupe? I'd love to see it.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Jul 31, 2007 - 08:08pm PT
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www.bobcarmichael.com
I couldn't get it to load today, but have looked here before.
he's an eastside local
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jul 31, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
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Bob Godfrey made some footage also, of Roger Briggs staging a leader fall on the last pitch of the Edge. I shot the original footage of the first ascent of the Edge, in glorious Super-8, as Duncan Ferguson and Jim Erickson (not "Erikson") finished the last couple of pitches...
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2007 - 11:27am PT
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Pat, is your footage what I saw? It was at an AAC gathering at
Raffi Bedayan's in 1974.
Thanks for the spelling lesson. I was just about to "correct" my
spelling of "Erickson."
In my "mental block" I at least had the first two letters right
(Du for Duane Raleigh instead of Duncan Ferguson)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Bob Carmichael's movie (Roger Briggs and Duncan Ferguson? memory's dim) was the start of his filmmaking career. As I recall, it mixed footage of the Naked Edge with other routes such as Tagger, a little bit like Mike Hoover's "Solo."
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Carmichael is in Boulder now; ran into him a couple weeks ago.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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As I recall the story, Bob's movie of the Naked Edge was instrumental in launching his career, starting with a job filming NFL games for a TV network soon afterwards. Buy him a beer and get the true scoop.
Bill Roos helped out making the Naked Edge movie too.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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I love 'Solo'! I saw it as a kid sometime in the 70's or early 80's. It continues to inspire me, most recently on a boot-skiing run this spring. Great film.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 30, 2007 - 06:39pm PT
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I got to do this with Dave Breshears in 78.
Nuts, E.B.s, adrenaline and lots and lots of testosterone (and don't forget beer and pipeloads in the parking lot)!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 30, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
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I recall the very night you rolled into Humber Park on the tale end of that excursion Hashbro. With Badyrka maybe? You guys were flyin' high on the road trip thang for sure. Also you boys tagged Death & Transfig right?
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 30, 2007 - 08:31pm PT
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Good memory Roy.
Yes we did do Death and Transfiguration. Nice and steep the way us Josh/Valley boys liked it.
You done that route?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 30, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
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'Cuple-three times yah.
Feels good on them jams!
First time up was neato.
Then, Lynnie was doing some sorta film shoot a bit back, early/mid 90's, and we lapped it 5 times for particular angles. First chance we'd had to rope up since the 70's, before she was famous 'n stuff.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 30, 2007 - 10:42pm PT
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Sure looks swell....From Climb by Ferguson and Chelton.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Nov 30, 2007 - 10:59pm PT
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Spencer, I just sent you the photos of those routes from so long ago. I suppose I will have to get a photobucket account or flicker to post some of them up soon. Good times those. We did the Naked Edge. Not sure what was climbed with Breashears, but I have some photos when we went bouldering. What routes did we do when we teamed up with Kamps and Rearick on the Bastile? I can't remember.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nick, I did the Naked Edge twice on that trip, the first time with Dave Breshears when we hooked in the parking lot. It was late afternoon or something and he just said let's do it so we did. I'm not sure where you were, probably out on some scary lead on micro-gear.
I'm psyched to see your archival images.
Nick, aren't you gonna coordinate this years reunion?
Really those guys were Kamps and Rearick; I didn't friggin remember. Dude you have an amazing memory....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Now we're gittin' somewhere!
Break that shite out Nick!!!
Kamps AND Rearick?
Too cool.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Here are a couple of shots from the Edge in 78' Hope you enjoy.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nice Nick!
Dang Spencer, I'm callin' pure talent on your part, 'cuz I see zero guns!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Roy, the guns came afterwards (puberty?). I was a sorta late bloomer. And, as you know guns ain't necessary when you (still) weigh 150 pounds.
Thanks for the ancient (and teenage) images Nick!
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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It is 34° and raining here today... I guess I have nothing better to do.
Roy as long as you are looking at this thread.. check out these two from the way back machine. Sorry for the thread hijack. These are from a trip to Mineral King with Keesee.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Archetypal Badyrka.
This guy certainly did have guns!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Cool Nick!
We live for thread drift.
I remember components of that trip well:
Peak 11,770 or something, a Rowell Clevenger 5.9 route, big corner, with cleaner/thinner stuff out right. We sort of probed up a pitch or two to the right, then rapped off a nut and pin, one of those SMC silver plated things.
What's in the bottle I'm brandishing?
Don't remember that at all.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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That sounds right. I am sure you were brandishing a fine red for the post trip celebration.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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For a short time Nick, you called me "Viceroy".
Ha.
More drift:
Ain't it cool how productive "E" is these days?
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Drift on. Yeah, E is amazing. Here's one with E in it. Help me identify the unknown foot in this photo. It is on the belay ledge of the Drain Pipe at Suicide in .. 78?
Further a Drift...
Just saw " No Country for Old Men" , the new Coen bros. film. Man, that film has Oscar written all over it.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Historic image Nick. Is that the Fredrick East? And the fellow to his right, a mysterious yet somewhat recognizable face, who?
The foot, possibly BVB?
The of course the most famous and still cranking E......
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Either Fred East or Guy Kesee.
The foot belongs to Wavy Gravy or Oliver Moon.
Never seen Mr middle...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nice photos. Hey, Spencer and Nick, I took my first trip to Eldo in 1978 and also did the Naked Edge, with Bachar. Must have just missed you guys.
Rick
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Ricky, what time of year were you all there?
Nick and I got spooked by a freak Spring storm and spontaneously left the Valley for Boulder. We were greeted in Boulder by another mega-storm and spent our first few days hiking through snowy neighborhoods and bouldering at the CU field-house.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Spencer,
Around late July or August. Randy V. was in Colorado that summer too.
Rick
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Left to right. Guy Keesee, Unknown foot , Dan Hershman and Eric Erickson. I just can't remember who's foot it is. Kinda fun scanning old photos.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nick, what ever happened to Dan Hershman?
Ricky, I suspect your summer 78' trip with Bachar was highly productive.
I remember Randy telling me about his trip that summer including a trist with a beautiful climber/maiden. I guess that was short-lived; ha Randy?
Keep em comin' Nick...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 23, 2007 - 03:44pm PT
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SCHWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!
Jim Collins and Ed Webster on the rope slicing second pitch. Peter Williams photo from Nov/Dec 1976 Mountain.
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