Chimneys; Not for everyone

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 150 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jul 22, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
those kick azzz elcapinmyazzz.... love that one of Nature!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
Jul 22, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
Steve Van Sickle feeling the love in Generator Crack


Me getting spanked in Ahab

rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jul 22, 2007 - 07:05pm PT
Right Side of the Worst Error gets my vote. As Worrell asked, anyone got a picture of that puppy? I sure don't. It was too dark in there...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 22, 2007 - 08:02pm PT
I once started up the Right Side but without planning to, tunneled through to the Left Side and finished up that. One of my best chimney days ever, deeply tiring however.


Nice pure climbing thread.

It was a dull Sunday at my office, installing new software, so I had time to check out ST. For a while today the front page was almost all climbing threads. We coulda made ST history.

But back to the chimneys ... here's a mellow one that really IS for everyone, the start to The Flake out in JTree.

scuffy b

climber
The deck above the 5
Jul 23, 2007 - 11:16am PT
Just before I got to Chiloe's picture of the Flake, I'd decided
to post about the Flake.
It's certainly a favorite spot for people to get themselves into
trouble. Most people don't stay far enough outside (chimneying).
They see the possibility of a hand jam Way Way inside, then they
get to handjam off-width and chimny all at the same time, making
it about a grade harder.
When in doubt, stay out. Warbler touched on a good point.
If you can stem, stem.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jul 23, 2007 - 11:43am PT
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Jul 23, 2007 - 11:47am PT
Yo Tar,

You sure that is the W. Face of Castleton? If so it isn't the crux, is it?

I cut my teeth (behind Roy) on the wide and have loved it ever since.

BTW Roy, Generator crack, which you recomended for my trip to Yosemite is 5.10b/c not 5.9 as you have it in your notes.

Prod
grover

Social climber
Akanada
Jul 23, 2007 - 12:29pm PT
Love these photo-threads

one from the Rockies. Canadian Cookie.


Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 23, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
what is the hardest chimney climb?

on this thread so far 10.96 at 5.10d (?) but I don't know... I'll check later tonight in the Yellow Guide
Moof

Trad climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Jul 23, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
Dear lord, someone bolted that crack!!

Seriously, how much did that suck to have to drill, unless it was a rap boltaed panty waste affair...
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
New York, NY
Jul 23, 2007 - 01:14pm PT

My only chimney photo. At Peterskill, Minnewaska State Park, NY.
Matt

Trad climber
the land where lois don't roam
Jul 23, 2007 - 01:16pm PT
love that photo in the 2nd post-

shorts and hand jammies?
i wonder if he had a different route in mind?
=)
Hardly Visible

climber
Port Angeles
Jul 23, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
I like em, never crowded, cool on hot days, and once you figure out what works you just do it over and over again often with a no hands rest between every move.

clowning around on Moby Dick Left


Reeds Left


North Chimney Castleton

They also make nice frames for viewing scenery.

Slack center Route


Castleton

Below the narrows

I am planning on being in Yosemite in late Sept. to early Oct. anyone up fer a trip over to Elephant Rock?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 23, 2007 - 03:17pm PT
Prod:
W Face Castleton crux was rattly kneebars in a good corner.
I think you swung into a wicked layback.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 23, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
Another old fave --

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 23, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
there is a rumor of an Elephant's day in the Valley once the Merced approach is doable (which will be early this year)...

...stay tuned...

....also, some loose talk about Basket Dome. But we'll have to wait for the waterfall to stop running.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jul 23, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
Ed has the secret plans.... we are still recruiting bold leaders and porters


(not guys humping loads, but nice dark beer)
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 23, 2007 - 03:49pm PT
"I think you swung into a wicked layback."

OH Tar, tar, tar, shaking my head. Actually that's how Bill Bradshaw (RIP) followed it.

-tales of the darkside ...
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 23, 2007 - 03:52pm PT
That Ed is so secretive, hope to be let into the loop.

The Waterfall rte fa, awaits perfect conditions, and symmetric face paint.

In any case I am on the train.
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Jul 23, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
This is just above the Crux...


I think the pic of you (tarbuster) is from the 1st pitch.

Prod.
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