Chimneys; Not for everyone

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Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2007 - 02:23pm PT

The Spell, Warlock Dome, Needles, Kern County , Calif.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jul 21, 2007 - 02:30pm PT
Chim-Chimney, Granite Mountain, AZ
Mike.

climber
Jul 21, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
Evil thread...


Epinephrine (the Steck-Salathe of the desert), SS, a few Salathe Wall pitches (Hollow Flake, above Lung Ledge, below the spire), Texas Flake, Pitch to Big Sur, Recompense on Cathedral Ledge...not hard, but some thought-provoking. The pitch above Lung Ledge IMO is the blankest and least restful of all of those.


Leading up to Lost Arrow spire at midnight, about fifteen feet from the top, my "advanced" rechargable-battery headlamp suddenly faded away. Much panicked dialog ensued, then the entire chimney lit up. Some Koreans in the Alcove had whipped out a mega-candlepower flame thrower and trained it up the chim so I could STFU and finish. Thanks, guys! The humor came in as my partner finished breaking down the anchor, and the Koreans (who spoke no English) simply held up the end of their rope in a plea to avoid the horrible 5.6 nigthtmare.


Sweet pic of CC, sm. Looks steep in that pic = 0
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jul 21, 2007 - 03:53pm PT
Legendary Brutus on the legendary Narrows, Steck-Salathe
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 21, 2007 - 04:37pm PT
Last pitch of Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock, near Leavenworth, staying in the chimney/crack all the way. Allegedly "5.9". (There's a 5.7 face detour.) Peapod tightening into a downward flare to an offwidth. Uggh! Not a place for cameras, either.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
How' bout that bombay chimney up on Hotline?
More like an overhanging flare, but you really do chimney it.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
The desert chimneys are phenomenal,
W Face Castleton has good chimney & OW:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
When Dave Katz & I did Chouinard Herbert, he (not me man I never get off route or make poor decisions, haha) went off route left at the start and went up the left side of Chessman Pinnacle. That was some pretty uncooth, burly chimney.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
We use to venerate Lizard King, because of Yabo's report, as well as a whole host of Yabo wide stories: like the epic he had getting his knee stuck on that OW thing down by Parkline Slab? Ala Moana maybe?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
Crowley,
Supertopian Prod took that shot.
He was my unsuspecting 2nd on a whole slew of wide stuff out this way. Guy had very little climbing experience and he never balked at all the wide which his apprenticeship garnered.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 21, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
From my point of view, you guys are drawing too many distinctions. That pitch on hotline is flaring and wide, and why exactly is that not, offwidth? It's wide & flaring, so of course it's always offsize for some kind of jam. Sounds like the essence of offwidth, to me, but what do I know?
To paraphrase Janis: "It's all the same damn wide ..."

Realm of the Lizard king is a classic, Coz thought we did the third ascent not long after he and Werner thought they did the second (who really knows?)
But,
if you like that one, New Maps of Hell (vedauwoo) is very similar. Similar jams to a weird roof before you abruptly go wide. We did the second, not all that long after the first, (weeks? a year?) and I don't think it's had a third.

Chimneys rock, there is a place by Bluff Utah, that could become the chimney mecca,how's that for spilling the beans?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 06:49pm PT
OW is too big to fist but too tight to get your hips in.
OW size then, is between the fist and the chimney.

So, from this simple description, may I proceed to the fantabulous logic that everything on either side of the OW, from fists down and tight squeeze up, is also OW, but the acronym stands for: On Width.

So whatever it might measure out at, it's either On Width or Off Width no matter how you measure up to it!
Ergo, you are correct Jay, it's all OW.
Yup, "Yesterday, today...it's all the same fucin' day man".
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
'Dunno about Higbee, never met him.

Those chimney moves on Hotline are wild.
There's a similar pitch on the Dunn Route, Moses, that looks cool. My buddy, Clean Dan, instead of heading out the intimidating bombay on his lead, opted for a straight up tunnel through to a bizarre but secure stretch of 3 way chimney.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
I know, it sounds weird.
Like an intersection of fissures, while inside, from several directions you could see light streaming in through the tower.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 21, 2007 - 07:14pm PT
The Fissure Beck is cool; a chimney flare that is stout and not so straightforward. Wile contorting, stemming, chimneying, and maybe laybacking, I thought of Bachar's on sight solo...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 21, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
Gary Carpenter in Moby Dick, Left 5.9 FA 1963 Kamps & Sacherer


the rating is a hoot!
WBraun

climber
Jul 22, 2007 - 12:19am PT
I hate chimneys. I hate em.

Evil fuking things that make you hurt.

But still I go to them because they are on the way to the top .....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 22, 2007 - 02:39am PT
I think that Moby Dick, Left is slightly more vert than the picture shows judging from the way the cams are hanging... at 5.9 it is hard.

I liked Elevator Shaft, that was fun at 5.8 and easy if the dead verticallity of it doesn't jib you out too much.

First pitch of Entrance Exam (got to go back and finish it) at 5.9 caught my attention, but it sews up with modern gear.

Church Bowl Chimney, 5.6... go for it! first time I did I spent a lot of time convincing myself to move through the crux.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 22, 2007 - 05:36pm PT
Joe Herbst on the FA of Deep Space, 1975:

Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jul 22, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
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