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Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
Jul 16, 2007 - 04:33pm PT
Wow! The first time my climbing buds and I get noticed at the Taco Stand and we're 'dickin' around...sheez. Yeah, the third pillar is a killer route with great views! Hey khanom, I'd be really appreciative if you could send me a pic or two.


Mountain climber
Jul 16, 2007 - 11:07pm PT
In that first foto, which is the 3rd Pillar? My guess is the farthest one?

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 18, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
khanom, which pitch is that party on?

seems so small now that i'm seeing a pic.

that' probably the start of the last pitch and my eyes are trippin.


Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
Jul 18, 2007 - 11:17pm PT
The picture shows two of us at the top of the 4th pitch while we were in the process of bringing up our third. I must admit that we were a bit twitchy with the clouds spitting at us and looking a little angry. I guess our "alpine start" wasn't quite early enough!

Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 19, 2007 - 12:35am PT


Wade Icey

Big Wall climber
Indian Caves, CA
Jul 19, 2007 - 11:46am PT
walleye, why ya climbin blindfolded?

Jul 19, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
classic, strong work

now i just hike up and throw a tr on the last pitch and do laps, great leisure day and view

Trad climber
Jul 19, 2007 - 06:08pm PT
One of my favorite routes in Meadows area - wonderful hike from meadows to moonscape to get there, then long, long views east across the desert zooms your heart. And, lo probability of finding crowds.

Those considering it should know getting to the base from the plateau can be tricky. It goes down some loose rock and can be a bit wet or even snowy depending on time of year. No big deal considering the adventure to come.

Tom Higgins
scuffy b

The deck above the 5
Jul 19, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
Tom, I hear you're getting out more these days?

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jul 19, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
Is the top of it as loose as it looks? Looks like the top-out blocks are ready to go!

Jul 19, 2007 - 07:01pm PT


Trad climber
Jul 19, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
Look at that beautiful last pitch!
It was a pitch and a half from the top when the lightning started. We bailed. We sat around under a rock at the base for hours as the hail built up 2 inches deep, then three. We had to hide under a rock for another hour about half way up the "approach" buttress. I had left my shoes out and they had filled up with hail. I gotta go back for that last pitch.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jul 19, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
Great picture Chris. That last pitch is stellar. This is a snapshot of one of the sections lower down.
I have to believe that the other formations that Khanom asked about have been climbed. I have vague recollections of hiking up there with Dennis Hennik and someone else and trying one of the features to the left (south). What we thought would be fairly easy going on a lower angle slab was too hard to do all free, so we backed off and hiked out.


Trad climber
Northern California
Apr 24, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
Great photos of an amazing route!

One interesting aspect they catch - many climbers don't wear helmets.

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 26, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
definitely one of the finest routes on the planet
here are some 'blast from the past' 80s vintage scanned slides...Eric Collins with war paint...sans helmet
Eric Collins on the sharp end
Mandatory summit photo
Commuting home after a hard day at the office

CF: that photo looking down on the final pitch is awesome

Apr 26, 2010 - 02:04pm PT
Beautiful shots ! Someday ..

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 26, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
Nice shot (posted almost three years ago) Roger!
I thought it was a really fun route.

i have it from the source that last pitch is no longer "the best 5.9, in the World!"

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 26, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
please Jaybro...enlighten us
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 26, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
As awesome as that route is, I love that approach over the Dana Plateau. One on the coolest places I've been.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 26, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
Sure, when confronted with his own words, Ricardo Leversee said, "That was a very long time ago...."

Oakland: what's not to love?
Apr 26, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
Me and Rockermike went up there a few summers back and had a blast. Neither of us had a camera but someone sent these to Mike:

Delicate section on the last pitch, before the steep and killer blocks:

Chalking up for THE pitch:

Long shadows from the summit:

Lots of blocky, shattered rock up there, as you can see to our left. I'll second whoever was commenting on the beauty of the plateau - it sticks with you, for years.

Edit: In the top photo of my post, top left side of the pic, you can see the flared chimney feature from Roger Breedlove's photo. Fun pitch.

I think any leader has the overwhelming feeling of "I don't want to fall here!" when they run into the crux section. I fell, tiny nut held, got it next try. Still wouldn't want to fall there next time...

There's a small boulder problem off a ledge on the last pitch that doesn't really take pro - wouldn't want to fall here either, and it's not 5.9.

Arkansas, I suppose
Apr 26, 2010 - 08:24pm PT

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Apr 26, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
That is some kind a wonderfull.
Thanx for keeping these threads alive.

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 26, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
what I remember is the shadow of the pillar grew and become more ominous throughout the day as we approached those last 2 steep, exposed, sphincter-puckering pitches.
gonzo chemist

Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
Apr 26, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
Great thread. I'm glad someone dug this up...reminded me of a super fun weekend.

A couple years ago my friend Darshan and I were headed up to the Whitney Portal with the goal of climbing Mithril Dihedral on Mt Russell. On the way up the portal road a friend's car broke down. His passenger was a Dutch guy cruisin' around California for a few months climbing. The conundrum was that this Dutchman needed to get back to his car, parked up in Tuolomne. So we agreed to put Mt. Russell on hold and keep headin' up the highway. After a late night encounter with the tool, and a few hours of shut-eye, we woke up to beautiful blue skies.

We stopped at the Mobil station and bumped into another friend, who needed a ride into TM with a plan to solo the Matthes Crest. So here we are, 4 people, with packs, climbing gear, sleeping bags, etc. in a compact car.

After dropping the fellas off, it was time to figure out what to climb. 3rd Pillar it was...

There were a few parties on it already so we started out on some alternative pitches and linked up to the rest of the route higher up. What started out as a bummer the night before, turned into one awesomely fun day of climbing...



Trad climber
Apr 26, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
My buddy Bryan on the last pitch. Not sure it gets better than the Sierra.


Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 26, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
climbingbuzz: is your buddy Bryan sans la corde?
Messages 1 - 27 of total 27 in this topic
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