How to properly place bolts

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 41 - 55 of total 55 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 16, 2007 - 07:09pm PT

Does this help?
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 16, 2007 - 07:12pm PT

Bend the elbow just so......
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 16, 2007 - 07:15pm PT

Somebody stop him....
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 16, 2007 - 07:16pm PT

Charles Cole with 1/4 inch drill bit in hand....
couchmaster

climber
Jul 16, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
Lots and lots of good advice up there.

To add to it, pay attention to the tightening torque BB. If you overdo it, you can weaken the placement. If you have any doubt, look up the Mfg specs and use a torque wrench to get a feel for it. The longer the bolt the greater the strength, which will pay dividends on the softer rock, like limestone. A 6" wrench, snug, gets you approx the 22-25 foot lbs that a 3/8" wedge anchor wants to be set.

Using 1/2 diameter will make snapping off the bolt from poor intallation torque/too much torque a non issue, and it's stronger as well. (total overkill:-)

I don't know why we went from 1/4"dia to 3/8" to 1/2" dia so quickly, but some people do advocate the large sizes. Certainly for softer rock, 1/2" diameter and longer too is better.

Do not put in Steel bolts. Diletic strength, in order of good to bad:
Titanium (best)
type 316 stainless
type 304 (also called 18-8) stainless
Steel, zinc plated (worst) this is just cheap/assed lame assed sh#t to use steel.

Type 316 channel (L stock or corner stock) made into hangers (rounded as noted above) and type 316 wedge anhors picked up from an industrial fastener distributor as Kevin notes above would be a perfect, relatively inexpensive/long term solution.

The brush/tube is for cleaning the hole out. the wedge anchors need some initial friction to stop the sleeve from spinning, if you get a spinner, the bolt will not proplerly tighten up. Sometimes clipping to the hanger and putting outward forces as you wrench it down will overcome this problem (which is rare).

Use sharp bits. Carbide bits wear long, and do not easily bind, but will wear at the edges, changing the hole diameter, and at some point, you can't pound a bolt in, producing a F*ed up mess.

You might try this guy, he's trying to get a supply thing going for these kinds of products and is very reasonable: http://renobclimbing.com/

Also, didn't see this tip, marking your drill bit with athletic tape at the depth you want to drill is a good thing, so you can drill deep enough - but not too deep, it will save you both time and wear and tear on equipment.

Good luck:

Bill
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 17, 2007 - 12:51am PT

Todd Swain in action.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jul 17, 2007 - 12:52am PT
great pics Todd!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 17, 2007 - 12:58am PT

George Armstrong....hand drilling on the lead.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 17, 2007 - 01:14am PT

The Brother Gaines doing his thing.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 17, 2007 - 02:56pm PT

On the lead....Rob Stahl doing it up...Beak Boulders, J.T.......1/4 inch buttonheads, of course.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 19, 2007 - 06:48pm PT

F A of Symbolic of Life, (5.11-), J.T.....hand drill, on the lead,...no doubt.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 19, 2007 - 06:54pm PT

G. Armstrong, F A ,hand-drilled drilled on the lead, Dimpled Chad, J.T.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jul 19, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
That thar's a perrdy thing. [in reference to Tony b's drill...]


Oh, drill yer holes straight 'n narrow, and deep too.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 19, 2007 - 08:59pm PT
i like baby taps to start a hole (not as#@&%e). then wail on em after the beginning of the hole is well defined.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 16, 2007 - 02:22am PT

Make sure your sport shoes aren't too tight........
Messages 41 - 55 of total 55 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta