TR: Heatwave Baby! the Valley, July '07


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Trad climber
Jul 11, 2007 - 05:58pm PT
Nice "sweatin like cheap pork" TR Russ. All I could do in the valley a week ago was dunk the Captain and two Neils in the Merced, kill green labels with amazing speed, and whine my way back to the meadows complaining of heat stroke.

cheers to you guys!


The chairman was envious of my capitalist green demon luggage.

Jul 11, 2007 - 06:41pm PT
sweet TR, what's the gear in badass momma?

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Jul 11, 2007 - 07:26pm PT
Apparently the Blow Hole has rotated 90 degrees since I was there last?

Sounds like a Miracle Whip™™™ filled sweat fest of a good time!

Social climber
The West
Jul 11, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
Tradis, I think he DOES have size 15 feet.

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jul 11, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
Ho Man Russ, you guys are serious gluttons for punishment. Not only do you GO to the valley when it is 110, but then you leave DNA (is that what you call it?) all over the routes. I'm surprised your skin wasn't soooooo wet and slimey that skin wouldn't stick to rock and yet somehow you left a pile there.

Here's looking forward to cooler temps and good friends!!!

Gym climber
Jul 11, 2007 - 10:14pm PT
"If you think you're going through Hell, keep going!"

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jul 12, 2007 - 05:35pm PT
Wow, a climbing thread....

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jul 12, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
Warm down on 1096 and Bad Ass, classic!

Nice TR, I was all bundled up with my idiot crown™™™ having a Kentucky bourbon right coast shittalkers fest at 3rd Lake.

Trad climber
Jul 13, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
Nice TR Russ! You been working out or do you get guns like that from hauling around rolls of vinyl? Classic Mussy writing anyway, loved it! Hope all is well!

Sport climber
Lexington, KY
Jul 13, 2007 - 12:43pm PT

This is what we in the south call "aggrosheen".

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jul 13, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
Hey snyd,

aggrosheen™™™, hehe.

You sure yer in "da south"? According to rc.noob, KY is in "da midwest" ;) ;)

PS-ROCS rocks...u know what I mean...

Sport climber
Lexington, KY
Jul 13, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
If you think that Kentucky ain't in the south, walk into any watering hole in Lee County, KY wearing prana capri length shorts and rainbow tank top...
scuffy b

Bates Creek
Jul 13, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
Aggrosheen and Miracle Whipp must make a formidable combination.

Great report. Feel free to post up another 15 or 20 like it.

Was a temporary fear of heights the driving force behind your
interesting route selection in the Valley?

Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
Jul 13, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
110F is the best time for wide climbing, keeps your muscles loose and flexible.
But sometimes it's just best to wait for shade

And sometimes you just realize you'd rather be right here, cold drink in hand


Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jul 14, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
Nice trip report Russ. Love the inclusion of the videos. Nice style on the that crack that tore up your arms.

The Sooze in a bakini? Where the hell was I?

Sounds like you two had yet another blast, per usual fare.

See ya soon

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 14, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
wow, what's a bakini, the mind boggles...

jingy, are you saying that The Sooze caused the heat wave!
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2007 - 04:20pm PT

Now *that* is a classic!

Fried brain edit: wow... I forgot all about the New Deviations day.... must have been the heat. Good pics Will.

the "Bring Ya'll up to Speed edit: Re: the Miracle Whip thingy..... from a 2001 TR on the Valley posted to rec.climbing.

Russ Walling
Jul 11 2001, 11:59 pm
Journal entry for the week of July 4th, 2001
Condensed time frame ahead: beware:

I haven't been on a rope in a while... maybe it was years? Went to the
Valley, first time in years. Woke up, got javanated, went to Goldrush,
strung a TR, in full sun. I was to go first, and after I remembered how
to tie the knot shimmied under the initial roof..... sunk a deep fist
jam and then cast off over the roof on w i d e fists.... so far so
good. The top out was less than graceful, but effective enough to get
me on the summit. Half a pitch and full block of chalk. With such a
sofa success, the Deli was mandatory. Way too many Olde E's later, went
to El Cap meadow to freshen up. Found some old friends, and got
rehydrated on some Bigfoot Ale.... then some more Olde E to bring
reality back.

Went to Lovers Leap:
Got the early start at about noon so I arrived at the base in full
sun.... Temps in the 80's? Felt like mid-100's. Cursed the guidebook
trying to find the Psychodelic Tree or some such named route. Finally
figured it out and started up.... routefinding was a bit of a problem
and quasi giant runouts were probably my fault. The sweat and chalk mix
made mayo on the critical jamming surfaces of my hands and arms. Yuk!
Seemed like most of the pro was suspect and there was plenty of loose
rocks wedged in the cracks. The top-out was spectacular for the grade.
Walked down in bare feet because my climbing shoes were killing me. The
hot rocks getting back to the base tried to do a number on my delicate
arches. Two pitches, one block of chalk, but needed more. No water.
Thirst was a problem. Moved over to the Line.... some sort of classic
for the grade. A very hot and greasy start led to some quasi giant
runouts, probably my fault. Pretty nice climbing on some good rock.
Used a lot of heels in the crack because my feet are really killing me
now. Was very lucky to actually have some large cams left for the belay
under the roof at the top. Not sure why I had them, but they sure came
in handy right there. Nice top-out over the roof. Two pitches plus a
few feet, and ran out of chalk again, but had plenty of mayo. Once
again walked down in bare feet. Yep, now they are tender. Left the
area to find a bar and some adult water substitute.

Days later? Back to the Valley:
Went to Reeds to do the Direct. Had a nice late start and high
humidity. Perhaps some rain? The first pitch was uneventful, but was a
fine indicator of just how warm it was going to be on the next pitch.
Found out that cams really don't fit in Reeds, and managed to move past
some sketch cams over the next 120ft or so.... the combo of chalk and
sweat and humidity made a really cool mayo like substance all over my
hands and forearms. It was decided later that to call the vile
substance mayo was to do it an injustice. From now on it will be known
as Miracle Whip, as in it is a miracle if you don't whip with this stuff
on your hands. Never seen anything slicker save for Astroglide.....
tends to make overjamming mandatory. One pitch plus, one block of
chalk, ran out. Back to El Cap meadow for copius amounts of booze and
'tater chips. BTW, there is only one party on El Cap.... hard to
believe for a holiday week. (July 4th)

Next day? Wanted to do Central Pillar of Frenzy.... the only frenzy was
two parties on the route. I had my usual late start going (4pm) and
figured I would get flamed on rec.climbing if I butted into the lineup.
Moved down to the Cookie and went up to Outer Limits. Nice and warm
here with a small drizzle coming down. Launched up the thing at speed,
trying to beat the Miracle Whip to the top.... no dice. I was
completely covered in sweat and gagging heavy within 20 feet. The MW
had a firm grip on me and the going was tough.... every jam was
spooge-ing and sweat made vision a problem. Topped out with one eye.
Nice courtesy clips at the top of the first pitch made for an easy rap
and TR later, just to get in some mileage. One pitch.... one block of
chalk, lost 30lbs in water weight. Went directly to the Steamboat
swimming area and launced off the big boulder into the river... once
feet first to see if my heart could take the shock, and then added full
front flip to see if I still had "it".... I didn't, and landed out of
my tuck and disoriented. I should work on that..... Back to El Cap
meadow for a replay of the previous night. Looks like the guys up there
are on Wino Tower now... standard progress. Fully hydrated, off to the
Lodge to see the "stars"...... ran into Chongo and talked physics while
checking out his new book on "Quantum Mechanics and the Peasant Mindset"
or something. Not sure if it was him or the Olde E, but I had to
go...... back to Bishop.


Social climber
The West
Jul 14, 2007 - 08:51pm PT
Bump, esp for that retro report of times on my 45th? birthday, wtf was I doing then? I think I was wildly in love in Vail, but taking care of llamas, that day, hard to remember...

Social climber
The West
Jul 14, 2007 - 08:52pm PT
Today I had an epic just approaching a hard phattie!
John Moosie

Jul 16, 2007 - 04:20pm PT
I vote for a trip report section. These are too good to have them disappear after just a few days. All trip reports, all the time. Pages and pages of them. Reading for a rainy day.

Three sections.

1. Main section just like now but without trip reports.

2. Trip reports.

3. Best of supertopo, much like craigslist except the thread would be in two places. It would start out on the main page, and if it recieved enough votes, then staff could add it in the best of section while leaving it in the main section. This would mean it was permanently archived in the best of section but was still active in the main section. Then everytime it was posted to from either the best of or the main section it would go to the head of the line in the main section like any other thread. AND... it would stay in the best of.

This would retain the flavor of supertopo's free for all while helping keep the gems in a place easier to find.

Just my thoughts. It would keep things simple. Adding to the "best of" could happen just a few times a year. Little work and still a free for all.
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