M.Tea
Trad climber
Utah
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2007 - 02:58pm PT
|
Nice "sweatin like cheap pork" TR Russ. All I could do in the valley a week ago was dunk the Captain and two Neils in the Merced, kill green labels with amazing speed, and whine my way back to the meadows complaining of heat stroke.
cheers to you guys!
Edit:
The chairman was envious of my capitalist green demon luggage.
|
|
quartziteflight
climber
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
|
sweet TR, what's the gear in badass momma?
|
|
Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2007 - 04:26pm PT
|
Apparently the Blow Hole has rotated 90 degrees since I was there last?
Sounds like a Miracle Whip™™™ filled sweat fest of a good time!
|
|
fattrad
Mountain climber
GOP Convention
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2007 - 04:31pm PT
|
Great TR Fish, maybe a little more shittalking would have rounded out the excursion.
Jody's evil twin.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2007 - 04:49pm PT
|
Tradis, I think he DOES have size 15 feet.
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
|
Ho Man Russ, you guys are serious gluttons for punishment. Not only do you GO to the valley when it is 110, but then you leave DNA (is that what you call it?) all over the routes. I'm surprised your skin wasn't soooooo wet and slimey that skin wouldn't stick to rock and yet somehow you left a pile there.
Here's looking forward to cooler temps and good friends!!!
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2007 - 07:09pm PT
|
Wow Russ
You still crank hard. Looks like you almost had it on the "Bad Ass Moma". I still credit you for showing me that technique on how to do that horrible off-width on the Moma.
It actually was 110 F that day.
Like they say, "You though hell was hot, it was hotter n hell!
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2007 - 07:14pm PT
|
"If you think you're going through Hell, keep going!"
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
|
Wow, a climbing thread....
|
|
426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2007 - 04:49pm PT
|
Warm down on 1096 and Bad Ass, classic!
Nice TR, I was all bundled up with my idiot crown™™™ having a Kentucky bourbon right coast shittalkers fest at 3rd Lake.
|
|
Bovine
Trad climber
USA
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2007 - 09:17am PT
|
Nice TR Russ! You been working out or do you get guns like that from hauling around rolls of vinyl? Classic Mussy writing anyway, loved it! Hope all is well!
|
|
426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2007 - 11:33am PT
|
Hey snyd,
aggrosheen™™™, hehe.
You sure yer in "da south"? According to rc.noob, KY is in "da midwest" ;) ;)
PS-ROCS rocks...u know what I mean...
|
|
snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2007 - 11:46am PT
|
If you think that Kentucky ain't in the south, walk into any watering hole in Lee County, KY wearing prana capri length shorts and rainbow tank top...
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Bates Creek
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2007 - 12:00pm PT
|
Aggrosheen and Miracle Whipp must make a formidable combination.
Great report. Feel free to post up another 15 or 20 like it.
Was a temporary fear of heights the driving force behind your
interesting route selection in the Valley?
|
|
Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2007 - 10:43am PT
|
Nice trip report Russ. Love the inclusion of the videos. Nice style on the that crack that tore up your arms.
The Sooze in a bakini? Where the hell was I?
Sounds like you two had yet another blast, per usual fare.
See ya soon
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2007 - 12:23pm PT
|
wow, what's a bakini, the mind boggles...
jingy, are you saying that The Sooze caused the heat wave!
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2007 - 01:20pm PT
|
aggrosheen™™™™
Now *that* is a classic!
Fried brain edit: wow... I forgot all about the New Deviations day.... must have been the heat. Good pics Will.
the "Bring Ya'll up to Speed edit: Re: the Miracle Whip thingy..... from a 2001 TR on the Valley posted to rec.climbing.
Russ Walling
Jul 11 2001, 11:59 pm
Journal entry for the week of July 4th, 2001
Condensed time frame ahead: beware:
I haven't been on a rope in a while... maybe it was years? Went to the
Valley, first time in years. Woke up, got javanated, went to Goldrush,
strung a TR, in full sun. I was to go first, and after I remembered how
to tie the knot shimmied under the initial roof..... sunk a deep fist
jam and then cast off over the roof on w i d e fists.... so far so
good. The top out was less than graceful, but effective enough to get
me on the summit. Half a pitch and full block of chalk. With such a
sofa success, the Deli was mandatory. Way too many Olde E's later, went
to El Cap meadow to freshen up. Found some old friends, and got
rehydrated on some Bigfoot Ale.... then some more Olde E to bring
reality back.
Went to Lovers Leap:
Got the early start at about noon so I arrived at the base in full
sun.... Temps in the 80's? Felt like mid-100's. Cursed the guidebook
trying to find the Psychodelic Tree or some such named route. Finally
figured it out and started up.... routefinding was a bit of a problem
and quasi giant runouts were probably my fault. The sweat and chalk mix
made mayo on the critical jamming surfaces of my hands and arms. Yuk!
Seemed like most of the pro was suspect and there was plenty of loose
rocks wedged in the cracks. The top-out was spectacular for the grade.
Walked down in bare feet because my climbing shoes were killing me. The
hot rocks getting back to the base tried to do a number on my delicate
arches. Two pitches, one block of chalk, but needed more. No water.
Thirst was a problem. Moved over to the Line.... some sort of classic
for the grade. A very hot and greasy start led to some quasi giant
runouts, probably my fault. Pretty nice climbing on some good rock.
Used a lot of heels in the crack because my feet are really killing me
now. Was very lucky to actually have some large cams left for the belay
under the roof at the top. Not sure why I had them, but they sure came
in handy right there. Nice top-out over the roof. Two pitches plus a
few feet, and ran out of chalk again, but had plenty of mayo. Once
again walked down in bare feet. Yep, now they are tender. Left the
area to find a bar and some adult water substitute.
Days later? Back to the Valley:
Went to Reeds to do the Direct. Had a nice late start and high
humidity. Perhaps some rain? The first pitch was uneventful, but was a
fine indicator of just how warm it was going to be on the next pitch.
Found out that cams really don't fit in Reeds, and managed to move past
some sketch cams over the next 120ft or so.... the combo of chalk and
sweat and humidity made a really cool mayo like substance all over my
hands and forearms. It was decided later that to call the vile
substance mayo was to do it an injustice. From now on it will be known
as Miracle Whip, as in it is a miracle if you don't whip with this stuff
on your hands. Never seen anything slicker save for Astroglide.....
tends to make overjamming mandatory. One pitch plus, one block of
chalk, ran out. Back to El Cap meadow for copius amounts of booze and
'tater chips. BTW, there is only one party on El Cap.... hard to
believe for a holiday week. (July 4th)
Next day? Wanted to do Central Pillar of Frenzy.... the only frenzy was
two parties on the route. I had my usual late start going (4pm) and
figured I would get flamed on rec.climbing if I butted into the lineup.
Moved down to the Cookie and went up to Outer Limits. Nice and warm
here with a small drizzle coming down. Launched up the thing at speed,
trying to beat the Miracle Whip to the top.... no dice. I was
completely covered in sweat and gagging heavy within 20 feet. The MW
had a firm grip on me and the going was tough.... every jam was
spooge-ing and sweat made vision a problem. Topped out with one eye.
Nice courtesy clips at the top of the first pitch made for an easy rap
and TR later, just to get in some mileage. One pitch.... one block of
chalk, lost 30lbs in water weight. Went directly to the Steamboat
swimming area and launced off the big boulder into the river... once
feet first to see if my heart could take the shock, and then added full
front flip to see if I still had "it".... I didn't, and landed out of
my tuck and disoriented. I should work on that..... Back to El Cap
meadow for a replay of the previous night. Looks like the guys up there
are on Wino Tower now... standard progress. Fully hydrated, off to the
Lodge to see the "stars"...... ran into Chongo and talked physics while
checking out his new book on "Quantum Mechanics and the Peasant Mindset"
or something. Not sure if it was him or the Olde E, but I had to
go...... back to Bishop.
adios,
Russ
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
|
Bump, esp for that retro report of times on my 45th? birthday, wtf was I doing then? I think I was wildly in love in Vail, but taking care of llamas, that day, hard to remember...
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!