How about 1000 F A's

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Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
I'm guessing here;....Tucker Tech, Herb Laeger, Big Al Bartlett, Fred Beckey, Louie Anderson, Harvey T. Carter, Todd Swain, Jack Marshall, Ken Nichols, Bob D'Antonio, Remy Brothers, Ed Webster, Jimmy Dunn, ......(I'm at about 900...it's a lifetime goal of mine....)....got any ideas here?

GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 10, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
some that may be close - B. Gaines, Dave Kennedy (Mountaineer or SoCal fella), and of course the bird (if you count individual pitches :D hey what is sport climbing anyway!)
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Jul 10, 2007 - 11:30pm PT
Fred's climbs in the Pac NW/Cascades alone are probably well over 1,000. But when you start climbing when you're about 14 and do it and very little else nonstop for almost 7 decades, you're easily going to top 1,000. Fred's a climbing machine and FA's have always been his thing.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Jul 10, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
Todd... I think I am over 1300-1400. I just did two today (12a and 11c). I feel lucky.


You'll get there.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2007 - 12:11am PT
Bob;...I try to do one a week.....but don't always hit the mark......them babies slow things down;.....I think it will take me about 3 more years;....hope I hang in there.......thanks for the encouragement......(1000 F A....alot of fixed pins, bolts, dirty cracks, grainy faces, loose holds, long walks....and all the silly names to come up with;......it's wacked......)...I have done mostly all my drilling by hand..(last few years I have the power now....wrist and elbow was not going to last....).)...and NO rap bolting.......I'm a dinosaur.....I've EVEN done a handful of new routes with Flouride.....waz up?......
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 11, 2007 - 12:33am PT
way kewl TG, just a bit more and you'll be in there...

you should start a website or something... ;)




i don't think I've ever counted all the FAs I've been a part of. Though I have a count as of a few years ago from the Pinns routes I've been a part of, care of CC. Nothing near a 1,000.

Jeebus that's a lot when you think about it. So that's 10 sets of 100 FAs.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Jul 11, 2007 - 12:46am PT
Todd, I once calculated very roughly that in 45 years of climbing I travelled about 500,000' of previously unclimbed technical ground. That equates to about 100 miles or 5,000 pitches of new-route-ing. Of those 5,000 pitches, about 20% are really good, worthy of repeating. That equates to about 1000 pitches or 200 routes. These are the climbs that are going into the book I'm trying to finish. Most of the others can and will be be forgotten with no loss to the climbing community.

-ExhaustedJello
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 11, 2007 - 01:00am PT
I shoulda kept count; I still could nevera beeen a contender.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jul 11, 2007 - 01:00am PT
Don't forget some of the old LV crowd - they've got some pretty long FA lists as well - Joe Herbst, Jorge and Joanne Urioste, Larry DeAngelo. Did a nine pitch FA up in First Creek with Larry on my way to Sushifest back in March so I know he's still clicking them off. Sounds like Joanne is still real active as well from what Jim Anglin reports. And it would seem as though our very own Piton Ron must be up over that mark by now one state over. I know I come up way way short in both routes and yardage, but I've left a few gems scattered here and there...
Misha

Trad climber
Woodside, CA
Jul 11, 2007 - 01:46am PT
I have about 997 to go. At this pace, I should get there in about 230 years.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 11, 2007 - 09:29am PT
Not so sure I'm over a grand, but its not the quantity its the quality that matters to me.

But thanks anyway Joe.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2007 - 10:00am PT
They can't ALL be dick-wrenching mega-classics.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jul 11, 2007 - 11:41am PT
um, do boulder problems count?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jul 11, 2007 - 11:52am PT
Let's hope so Bob. Otherwise I am only good for 30 or so. A mere pittance.
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 11, 2007 - 12:52pm PT
I'm right behind you, Misha, at 999 to go.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 11, 2007 - 12:56pm PT
Maybe not initially Todd.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jul 11, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
I once asked Fred that with so many FA's and so many routes in general, climbed, what his favorite climb is. His response? "The next one," he said. How cool is that?!

Fred's awesome! I'm lucky enough that we're talking about doing some Sierra stuff when he is down this way again, later this year.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jul 11, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
TG states:They can't ALL be dick-wrenching mega-classics.

Perhaps true, but some people have taken that to the other extreme.

On the other hand, I prefer the quality over quantity approach. Probably have 700+ more to go. At the current rate, this will take only a few hundred more years.
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Jul 11, 2007 - 03:01pm PT
I must be downright lazy. I’ve been scoping FA’s since the 70’s and all I have to show for it is about a dozen routes in Josh, two in The Gorge of Despair, about a half dozen up at Courtright Reservoir, a couple at Dome Rock and one in The Needles proper, three or four at Church Domes, another dozen or so in the Kern River Canyon and a few in the Panamint Valley area. I figure about 40 total. And then there’s those two unfinished projects…
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 11, 2007 - 03:31pm PT
Which Todd? Swain? I've done more Swain routes than probably anyone on this planet, except for Todd Swain, of course. They're not all choss.
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