the most el cap SOLO ascents

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DaveT.

Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2007 - 11:25am PT
i was just reading the post about the most el cap ascents by DIFFERENT routes, and the question came up- who has soloed the most routes up on the big guy? this will be a difficult question as many of the soloists dont like to count and tell, but as a possible contender, the question is now posted.......
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 10, 2007 - 12:08pm PT
dave ..

.. no fair to post the queswtion and not give up your number ..

.. i've got 3 solo's .. -- not enough to win -- ..
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
come on pete, where are you at? you must know some beta on this one....

and ricardo- i am asking this to know some facts, not to spray. but it is a few.....

gerberding? lovelace? kohl? florine and schnieder?
WBraun

climber
Jul 10, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
This is a free climbing forum and retro bolting forum (oops) I mean long run out forum?

El Cap is history?

Weschrist is your new leader ............ well maybe?
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Jul 10, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
My money is on Klaus.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 10, 2007 - 09:18pm PT
Tucker did 3 back to back to back....that's fairly grubby.
WBraun

climber
Jul 10, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
Yeah and he jumared with the haul bag while cleaning.

I don't think anyone has ever done a whole El Cap route solo or with a partner that has done something like that.

I mean, he doesn't haul his bag when he soloed those routes.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Jul 10, 2007 - 09:27pm PT
Ha ha ha Todd "thats fairly grubby" is freakin funny discribing tucker. He is absolutly "fairly grubby" in all respects. I imagine he was employing this haul tactic with just a swami as well.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 10, 2007 - 09:38pm PT
Hi Dave, yeah I'm here.

I'm at eight solos of El Cap, from left to right:

IH, NS, TT, LinA, ZM, SS, LE and EW.

I honestly don't know who has soloed the most routes. Xaver Bongard did a few. We need to get Hans to add solo ascents to his "Compare and Declare" page, eh? I cleaned the WFLT in '83 jugging with the pig because it was what I was familiar with from caving in Mexico.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Jul 10, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
If any thing should be in caps its EL CAP, do you worship yourself or the rock more, David...

just f*#king with you

The answer is hopefully not even a human being. Which makes it something more special.
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2007 - 10:00pm PT
did klaus ever get into repeating other peoples routes up there? i thought he only climbed his own routes, which would limit the number. and i dont think hans and steve s climbed many different routes.

ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 10, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
.. sup bro .. i am really curious to know how many different solo's you've done .. i dont care or think much about the spray ..

.. another interesting question would be to find out how many folks have soloed EL CAP for their first big wall ever ..

.. at one point i think ammon had a bead on the number .. but i doubt there is a way to tell ..
Owlman

Social climber
Montucky
Jul 10, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
Duane Raleigh needs a mention here...wasn't he the first solo of ZM? Also a Cosmos solo...among others.

Soloed Zodiac and Lurking Fear in late 80s.
LF was really cool...way over there off the beaten path.
Bats fed by the light of my headlamp while I read "IN Dubious Battle" - Steinbeck each night. The Grand Traverse is a very cool pitch.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 10, 2007 - 10:59pm PT
I believe that Peter Haan's solo of the Salathe in 1971 was his first big wall, the first solo of that route, and the second solo of El Capitan. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=247504&msg=247514#msg247514
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 11, 2007 - 12:21am PT
Good one Anders.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 11, 2007 - 01:43am PT
Then, in 1972, Jim Dunn did the first solo first ascent, of Cosmos. Soon followed by Charlie Porter on the Zodiac. Though I believe both already had considerable big wall and El Capitan experience.

Perhaps there were other solo ascents in the 1969 - 72 period, by El Cap and/or big wall novices?
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Jul 11, 2007 - 05:48am PT
I know that wally barker did a bunch, not sure how many though.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 12, 2007 - 12:17am PT
I was thinking of doing another, but can I retire with eight then? How many have you done, Dave?

Wally's solos have been pretty stout, for sure. He solo'd the Ranch and Gulf Stream, might have done Jolly Roger, too. Bad to the bone, that boy.
Jonny D

Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
Jul 12, 2007 - 01:09am PT
wally solos: gulf stream, kaos, plastic surgery disaster, jolly roger, reticent wall. didn't know he soloed the ranch but wouldn't surprise me.
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33 45' N 117 52' W
Jul 12, 2007 - 02:41am PT
Put up any sick new routes in Peru lately Dave???

Looking forward to hearing your stories.

Cheers!

Kia
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