Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Avery
climber
New Zealand
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
|
Well done Pete. A lesser man would've said a whole lot more.
Is "Disorderly Conduct" on the horizon, or maybe even "Nightmare on California Street"?
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2015 - 11:03pm PT
|
Yes! I'm definitely up for Disorderly Conduct. If anyone is interested, let me know.
I'm not so sure about Nightmare, however.....
I *really* wanted to do Gulf Stream, but the first two pitches fell off one day while Kate and I were watching from BUBS. I had the video posted, but Kate made me take it down. Something about her wide eyes and colourful language...... I wonder if there is a viable way to reach the base of the third pitch? Maybe via Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys? Not sure exactly where they all go.
Still haven't done Space, another long one that is rarely climbed. I wonder how the anchor bolts are, if they would need upgrading?
I'm also quite interested in Waterfall Route in the fall when it's dry, now that the fifth and sixth pitches have been re-established. And Mirage in the spring, when the Lurking Fear gully stream might be running like this past spring when we filled all our water bottles for Squeeze Play.
|
|
colin rowe
Trad climber
scotland uk
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2015 - 12:49am PT
|
The Nose with Bill Price October 1977 in 2.5 days. Alternate leads. I slowed Bill down. Bill was the talented, gifted and superb climber. Yabo was correct when he described me as an untalented climber.
|
|
Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2015 - 11:50am PT
|
Only one.
Regarding winds on EC, during one of the early attempts on the Nose in 1958 I was wearing a tightly woven straw alpine hat, attached with a lanyard. We got a thunderstorm. The hat flew to the end of the lanyard and flapped itself to pieces. No measurement, but I'd be surprised if the wind was less than 50.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
|
Doing the Nose in 1958 to me is like rowing a boat across the Atlantic without gps, cell, and radio.
Just oars, boat and balls .......
|
|
ashtond6
climber
Sheffield, UK
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
|
Two :)
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
|
One can only do El Cap once ever anyways.
After that they are all just variations of the same .....
|
|
E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2015 - 11:00am PT
|
actually the first two pitches of the Gulfstream didnt fall off
several big flakes fell that were not part of the route
maybe a flake on pitch 3 but nothing a short rivit ladder wouldnt fix
not alot of recent info on that one either
pete you should go for it with no topo......that would be badass
EE
|
|
Honu
Big Wall climber
Boulder
|
|
I’ve been living in Yose for little over a year and I’ve bagged lurking fear in a few days , zodiac in a 30 hr push, Tribal rite In 2 weeks of winter conditions, Muir in a day, Triple direct in a day, lurking fear in a day, and lost in a America in five days. I love where I live and I can’t wait to keep pushing my self on that rock in the years to come.
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
Well, I guess I’ll add my two cents worth to this Vesuvius of self-aggrandizement*.
All this before harnesses, before porta-ledges, before ATCs, before cell phones, and before YOSAR. Also, we made our own etriers and our own haul bags.
8th ascent of the Nose (7 days in the rain)
3rd ascent of the Dihedral Wall
2nd ascent of the NA Wall
2nd ascent of the Dawn Wall
Other than the Salathe, there were no other routes on El Cap during that period, 1966-1972 (correct me if I’m wrong).
Also, kudos to John Long for his “I think the only ascent that really counts, soul wise, is the first one.” I assume he means “the first time up that particular route”?
*In 1971 I wrote a letter to Warren Harding in which I related Royal’s and my reasons for beginning the aborted erasure of bolts on the Dawn Wall: “I didn’t like the way Harding and Caldwell did the route. I didn’t like the publicity. And besides, I hadn’t ever done anything controversial in my life (up to that time). I had always wanted to do a wall with Royal. I guess to some degree I was doing it for the same reasons I attributed to Harding and Caldwell – self-aggrandizement.”
Harding was, as he wrote in his book Downward Bound, “… entertained by all this, I was also intrigued by one of Don’s statements: the thing about climbing for self-aggrandizement.” Harding admitted to me that he had to look up the meaning of self-aggrandizement, and assured me that he was grateful for the addition to his vocabulary.
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
|
|
As for other routes that existed during that 1966-72 period there was The Muir Wall that Robbins soloed in 1968 and the West Buttress....http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Kors-West-Buttress-of-El-Capitan-TR-1964/t88n.html
I climbed the Dihedral in April of 1972 with Jerry Yesavage and then climbed the Triple Direct in the Fall of 1972. In 1977 I soloed the Dihedral Wall. At that time it did not seem like there were any new bolts like there are today. It was still old 1/4" Rawls.
A photo from Don Lauria's DIHEDRAL DIARY in Summit Magazine 1968; Dennis Hennek on a crux pitch just above the 'Ledge'.
|
|
john hansen
climber
|
|
Thanks for the history Don.
On those ascents with out a harness did you use swami's yet or were you
just tied in with the rope?
|
|
Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 8, 2019 - 01:22pm PT
Well, I guess I’ll add my two cents worth to this Vesuvius of self-aggrandizement*.
All this before harnesses, before porta-ledges, before ATCs, before cell phones, and before YOSAR. Also, we made our own etriers and our own haul bags.
8th ascent of the Nose (7 days in the rain)
3rd ascent of the Dihedral Wall
2nd ascent of the NA Wall
2nd ascent of the Dawn Wall
Other than the Salathe, there were no other routes on El Cap during that period, 1966-1972 (correct me if I’m wrong)
That's the stuff of greatness right there! Thanks for the post, Don!
I have never done an El Cap Route, and Medusa loves to remind me of my great deficit in life.
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
|
|
One, East Butt..
oops, I mean none...
|
|
BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
|
|
Wow, Thanks Don!
That kinda stuff can’t be bought
🙏
|
|
mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
|
|
Survival, do you remember knocking that huge block off near the top of Tribal Rights in ‘81? Mike White and I were a couple pitches up on the Dawn Wall when that happened. You’d been dropping pins and stuff for a day. Everything was whizzing right by us and hitting the slab 50’ away from the start of Mescalito/Dawn. I remember hearing you guys screaming and yelling st the top of your lungs. We looked up and saw this huge block/cleaver windmilling towards us. I could hear it making these horrible wooshing sounds as it turned over. We had no where to go. It wooshed past us and hit the slab and broke into a million pieces near where my sweetie was. I talked to Lesher about it later. He said it almost killed one of you guys.
|
|
john hansen
climber
|
|
Don Lauria , what kind of tie in did you use with out a harness on those ascents you spoke of in the El Cap thread?
A Swami,, or just tied in to the rope.
pretty brutal either way.
|
|
wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
|
|
This shot is from my 24th El Cap ascent, a push of Zodiac, taken in November of '18. Each of those were quite memorable in their own way(s).
One day ascents in 107* temps. Waking to find icicles hanging from our portaledges in the morning after mine swung in the wind for about 9 hours the previous afternoon until well into that evening. Doing the 5th ascent of Bad Seed with my friends, the late Brian McCray and Hans Florine in 19:12, still the record. Can't wait to see what kind of shenanigans my partners and I get up to in '19!
Photo credit; Chris Van Luevan.
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2019 - 12:00pm PT
|
I'm sure we were using swami belts by 1967.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!