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Borut
climber
french
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Nov 16, 2012 - 02:50am PT
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These are three classic lines on the three (classic) 'must' walls of the Julian Alps: the north walls of Triglav, Travnik and Špik (the image of Špik is a frog view - looks better from the distance LOL).
This is just eye candy: the lines are an approximation.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 27, 2012 - 05:15am PT
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Apparently there are now very real potential access problems at Osp and Misja Pec. Inconsiderate parking and wild camping are upsetting the local people. Just like Buoux in the 8Os, eh? Climbers never learn do they? They are their own worst enemy...
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 05:56am PT
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Haven't been down to Osp for a while - went to the Črni Kal slabs.
What happened in Osp? Did they put up barriers or something?
The forest on the "plateau" above Črni Kal entirely burnt down, the village untouched.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:13am PT
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Look here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=528837 origin apparently from 8a.
Is Lubjlanska on your Triglav photo? If so could you add it please. It was 30 years ago and I don't remember quite where it was!
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:34am PT
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Thanks for dropping by again!
well, for the Osp walls, the parking lot at the camping ground is most convenient. For Miška, it's not too long a walk.
No thanks, I wouldn't draw 'Ljubljanska', which I did not climb. I even have problems drawing what I did climb LOL. See the flowers at the bottom of the Triglav pic? I think that's where 'Ljubljanska' starts.
Edit: is that you EV?
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:21am PT
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No I'm not EV.
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:48am PT
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No offense man.
Does the hint (flower) to the beginning of the climb you did look familiar?
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Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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I spent a few days in Bled, Slovenia in the fall of 2010. From there, you have rock climbing options nearby and mountaineering options in Triglav National Park. The Julian Alps are a playground with a fraction of the people compared to the French/Swiss Alps. Bled has a couple of good outdoor equipment stores.
Slovenia was part of the old Yugoslavia. It's not modern by western standards, which might be a good thing. It's being discovered by tourists, but is still a hidden gem. Wifi and cell coverage were great. The capital of Ljubljana is worth a visit, too.
http://www.coronn.com/TOPOS/slovenia/bled/bled.html
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 10:48am PT
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Playground heh. You mean like in life is a game?
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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no offense man
None taken! I wonder who EV is!
No, I really don't remember where the route was. We started from a refuge (or just a chalet?) near to that huge karabiner. My friend knew exactly where we were going, so I just followed. From the top of the route, if I remember correctly we walked off rightwards and back down to the valley. The next day we started up another route, maybe to the right of Ljubjlanska, but I got hit on the side of the head by a rock whilst still belaying on the ground so we went down. Quite a bit of blood but no damage. Not the limestone of the south of France - but a bit more adventurous!
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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E.V. are the initials of a climber I exchanged posts with, on line, a friend of Le Grec.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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Nice exchange guys!
Slovenia......, sounds like a urinary tract infection. HA! KIDDING!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Looks like i need to take a trip to Slovenia. When is the best time of the year for alpine rock climbing?
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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You are very welcome Jim. It's funny, I was just speaking about Latok two days ago with a friend.
Hereabouts, July 15th to September is prolly the best "créneau" as the French say.
As for winter ascents, ahmm, we're still waiting this year, though I did spot Mark Prezelj running down from Brana the day before yesterday.
And some of the dudes are putting up muscle by tooling. Know what: the Log wall (Koritnica, Julian Alps) might, as I hear, even be coming in. The upper part is supposed to look nice, even now.
Borut
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Perhaps next August....i'll keep you posted. How many pitches on those N.Faces you posted?
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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20+ (those walls are 1000 m, 800 m and 900 m tall)
Hey, so you're training for that one day Nose repeat of yours.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Borut, I did the Nose 40 years ago with Peter Minks in one bivouac- fastest at the time.
Now i want to do it with George Lowe in a day for the "Old but not Dead" climbing team.
I've rented a place in Yosemite West for the month of May to help get dialed.
I'll be a couple of months shy of 70 and George will be just shy of 69. We plan to make sure that the rope we use is younger than the team.
I'm climbing pretty well and so is George....in a relative sense that is. Also planning a trip to the Karakorum with old partner Jack Tackle in 2014.....lot's to do before all of the sand runs through the hourglass.
If you ever want to climb in the Utah Desert, the Black Canyon, or the Wind Rivers you know how to find me.
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