Climbing in Slovenia

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jrenee

Trad climber
All over the States
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2007 - 04:23pm PT
Has anyone climbed in Slovenia?

I am doing a trek through Europe, and a friend keeps telling me to go there. Has anyone been, or does anyone want to go?

Joni
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jul 8, 2007 - 06:19pm PT
Post a TR if you go. My great-grandparents were from Slovenia (then Austria), and I've always wanted to visit.
frodolf

climber
Sweden
Jul 9, 2007 - 11:37am PT
I haven't been there, but I've got friends who went there a couple of years ago. They made a road trip through eastern europe. I don't remember what they said about Slovenia exactly, but I do remember them getting back home with loads of great storys and experiences from awesome climbing all over eastern Europe.

Watch out a little though, at some places around there the ethics of climbing can be really hardcore! My friends told me of a place - can't remember where now, could've been Slovenia - where it was prohibited BY LAW to belay with metal; knots and slings only. If you're hoping to avoid Slovenian prison, I suggest you check with the locals about the ethic code of that area.

Have fun!
wiclimber

Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
Jul 9, 2007 - 01:49pm PT
I have climbed in Slovenia and know a bit about it.

What type of climbing are you looking for?
Borut

climber
french
Nov 1, 2012 - 02:32am PT
frodolf, there are no such prohibitions in Slovenia. Your friends may have spoken of the Saxonian Elbe sandstone towers (in southeast Germany, close to ths Czech border). There are laws there concerning when and how one climbs. This is due to the non compactness of that sandstone. It should be left alone when wet. As additional protection to the installed rings (which are ca 15m apart), one may only use the 'Saxonian knots', balls of rope that one stuffs into a crack. No metal, or anything hard which would damage the rock. I myself only visited the Saxonian towers, but my son extensively climbed there. Great stuff!

Concerning Slovenia, here are two fun TRs I recently posted (more to come, I hope) :
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Slovenia-a-morning-trip-to-268-rni-Kal-crags/t11725n.html
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1967813/TR-No-tooling-along-Sava


Borut
wallyvirginia

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:17am PT
I've been there and have friends from there.

It's insanely beautiful (lord of the rings style). The rock is mostly sedimentary and quite fragile, trad climbing is rare in most places. Alpine is great though, lots of ice and spectacular snow gulleys to climb in winter.
Borut

climber
french
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:20am PT
Hi wallyV
What did you climb? just curious

Borut
Borut

climber
french
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:26am PT
trad climbing is rare
...depends what you call trad.
There are no bolts on alpine. So you have to deal with the pins, some old some new. We essentially place as little *as possible*... climb as much on friends and webbing as it goes.
wallyvirginia

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:28am PT
Hi Borut. Unfortunately didn't climb when I was there. Just travelled around with my family.
Borut

climber
french
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:31am PT
What do the friends climb?
wallyvirginia

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:40am PT
Anything. They live in Kranj and are "students" (climbing bums). Met them rock climbing in Norway and they've been back to climb ice with me in Sweden etc. I don't know the names of any specific climbs in Slovenia if that's what you're asking.
Borut

climber
french
Nov 1, 2012 - 03:49am PT
Cool
I was asking because you stated that trad is rare. So I wondered where you got the idea from. Hope i didn't sound too defensive though.

But there's a lot of bolted crags for sport/rock summer climbing, yes! (there's ice but not enough and it usually is around for not too long)
wallyvirginia

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Nov 1, 2012 - 07:59am PT
No worries.

The "trad is rare in most places" statement was based on what I've seen, read and heard from actual climbers. But like I also stated, there are alpine routes.

Zunaj.si is my friends web page, lot's of good articles and pictures. Check it out!
Borut

climber
french
Nov 1, 2012 - 08:13am PT
Done checking out, to some point. Thumbs up to Norway.

On the limestone walls in Slovenia, the alpine routes are trad, adding pins if necessary, but no bolts.


Edit: checked out a little further. Nice blog Zunaj.si. As far as alpine (trad) routes in Slovenia are concerned, I see only very little though.



jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Nov 1, 2012 - 09:48am PT
I climbed on two big limestone crags at Osp - just near the Italian border at Trieste. One seems to go under the name of Osp and the other Misjca Pec (spelling?). Osp crag offers hard bolted routes and MP VERY hard! I tried adding a Google map link but it didnt work. Google it.
Also climbed on Triglav which was loose trad terrain...

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 1, 2012 - 09:57am PT
hey there say, melissa... will have to find out what small town, as it was, that my grandfolks were from... and compare notes with yours, :)
Borut

climber
french
Nov 1, 2012 - 10:16am PT
jaaan, HERE is a cool TR about the Osp Wall, by Michael, a climbing pal of mine.
(bolted MP)
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Nov 1, 2012 - 11:07am PT
Borut: Thanks for that. Just read the TR, looking at the Osp topo at the same time. Yes, I know this route but I don't think I've done it. I think I may have done the Internacionala in 1998. In fact that was the second time I climbed at Osp, the first being in 1982 with a friend from Ljubljana. I'd been to a climbing meet at Paklenica a month or so earlier. At the time, Slovenian and Croatian - or I should say Yugoslav - climbers were just beginning to accept free climbing. Let's say there was a good deal of reluctance from some, but it was totally embraced by others - and so my friend wanted to free climb everything. We threw ourselves at Netopir. I remember she used aid on one pitch which I followed free, then I used aid on another and she followed it free. So at the top we'd achieved a sort of team free ascent... well, almost! Later that week we went to Triglav and did Ljublanska free, only to find it was the second free ascent.
Borut

climber
french
Nov 2, 2012 - 04:29am PT
Thanks jaaan. Paklenica in the 1980s! Great!
Yup, Ljubljanska on Triglav N was freed in 1980 (I.Tomazin). Good on you for being there in those years!
Here is some Osp eye candy, pitch 3 of Stara (pitches 3 and 4 have not yet been freed):
photo not found
Missing photo ID#271644
Borut

climber
french
Nov 5, 2012 - 04:45am PT
bump

here's some dry tooling (in Slovenia):

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Dry-Tooling-along-Sava/t11749n.html

and
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1967813/TR-No-tooling-along-Sava (allready mentioned in an older post)
Borut

climber
french
Nov 16, 2012 - 02:50am PT
These are three classic lines on the three (classic) 'must' walls of the Julian Alps: the north walls of Triglav, Travnik and Špik (the image of Špik is a frog view - looks better from the distance LOL).
This is just eye candy: the lines are an approximation.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#274046
photo not found
Missing photo ID#274047
photo not found
Missing photo ID#274045
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Nov 27, 2012 - 05:15am PT
Apparently there are now very real potential access problems at Osp and Misja Pec. Inconsiderate parking and wild camping are upsetting the local people. Just like Buoux in the 8Os, eh? Climbers never learn do they? They are their own worst enemy...
Borut

climber
french, spider, cheater
Nov 28, 2012 - 05:56am PT
Haven't been down to Osp for a while - went to the Črni Kal slabs.
What happened in Osp? Did they put up barriers or something?

The forest on the "plateau" above Črni Kal entirely burnt down, the village untouched.

jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:13am PT
Look here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=528837 origin apparently from 8a.

Is Lubjlanska on your Triglav photo? If so could you add it please. It was 30 years ago and I don't remember quite where it was!
Borut

climber
french, spider, cheater
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:34am PT
Thanks for dropping by again!

well, for the Osp walls, the parking lot at the camping ground is most convenient. For Miška, it's not too long a walk.

No thanks, I wouldn't draw 'Ljubljanska', which I did not climb. I even have problems drawing what I did climb LOL. See the flowers at the bottom of the Triglav pic? I think that's where 'Ljubljanska' starts.

Edit: is that you EV?
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:21am PT
No I'm not EV.
Borut

climber
french, spider, cheater
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:48am PT
No offense man.

Does the hint (flower) to the beginning of the climb you did look familiar?
Dave Johnson

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:42am PT
I spent a few days in Bled, Slovenia in the fall of 2010. From there, you have rock climbing options nearby and mountaineering options in Triglav National Park. The Julian Alps are a playground with a fraction of the people compared to the French/Swiss Alps. Bled has a couple of good outdoor equipment stores.

Slovenia was part of the old Yugoslavia. It's not modern by western standards, which might be a good thing. It's being discovered by tourists, but is still a hidden gem. Wifi and cell coverage were great. The capital of Ljubljana is worth a visit, too.

http://www.coronn.com/TOPOS/slovenia/bled/bled.html

Borut

climber
french, spider, cheater
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:48am PT
Playground heh. You mean like in life is a game?
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
no offense man

None taken! I wonder who EV is!

No, I really don't remember where the route was. We started from a refuge (or just a chalet?) near to that huge karabiner. My friend knew exactly where we were going, so I just followed. From the top of the route, if I remember correctly we walked off rightwards and back down to the valley. The next day we started up another route, maybe to the right of Ljubjlanska, but I got hit on the side of the head by a rock whilst still belaying on the ground so we went down. Quite a bit of blood but no damage. Not the limestone of the south of France - but a bit more adventurous!
Borut

climber
french, spider, cheater
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
E.V. are the initials of a climber I exchanged posts with, on line, a friend of Le Grec.
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Dec 10, 2012 - 05:58am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/123747/Climbing-The-Triglav-North-Face
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Jan 11, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
http://www.mostlyclimbing.com
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 11, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Nice exchange guys!

Slovenia......, sounds like a urinary tract infection. HA! KIDDING!!!
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 3, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1302410&msg=2062293#msg2062293
At the Sava drytool crag

Hello Poli dude. That's cool you're around.

Borut
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 3, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Looks like i need to take a trip to Slovenia. When is the best time of the year for alpine rock climbing?
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 3, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
You are very welcome Jim. It's funny, I was just speaking about Latok two days ago with a friend.

Hereabouts, July 15th to September is prolly the best "créneau" as the French say.
As for winter ascents, ahmm, we're still waiting this year, though I did spot Mark Prezelj running down from Brana the day before yesterday.
And some of the dudes are putting up muscle by tooling. Know what: the Log wall (Koritnica, Julian Alps) might, as I hear, even be coming in. The upper part is supposed to look nice, even now.

Borut
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 3, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Perhaps next August....i'll keep you posted. How many pitches on those N.Faces you posted?
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 3, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
20+ (those walls are 1000 m, 800 m and 900 m tall)

Hey, so you're training for that one day Nose repeat of yours.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 3, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
Borut, I did the Nose 40 years ago with Peter Minks in one bivouac- fastest at the time.
Now i want to do it with George Lowe in a day for the "Old but not Dead" climbing team.
I've rented a place in Yosemite West for the month of May to help get dialed.
I'll be a couple of months shy of 70 and George will be just shy of 69. We plan to make sure that the rope we use is younger than the team.
I'm climbing pretty well and so is George....in a relative sense that is. Also planning a trip to the Karakorum with old partner Jack Tackle in 2014.....lot's to do before all of the sand runs through the hourglass.
If you ever want to climb in the Utah Desert, the Black Canyon, or the Wind Rivers you know how to find me.
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 3, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Both of you are great inspiration. I'm 12 years younger than you are and allready complaining.

I hope we do meet!

Borut
poli

climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 5, 2013 - 02:37am PT
Yo Borut dude ;) thanks for the photos. As you can see, they really came in handy ;)

Poli
poli

climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:16am PT
cold, winter day and we found ourselves (Borut, Tedi and I) drytooling again :)

Borut nearing the top of Minutka za zdravje (D6)
Borut nearing the top of Minutka za zdravje (D6)
Credit: poli

Tedi nearing the crux of Nekoristni svet (D8+)
Tedi nearing the crux of Nekoristni svet (D8+)
Credit: poli
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Feb 17, 2013 - 03:19pm PT

No, I really don't remember where the route was. We started from a refuge (or just a chalet?) near to that huge karabiner.

This karabiner:

Credit: jaaan
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Feb 18, 2013 - 04:59am PT
Weather in Slovenia
http://meteo.arso.gov.si/met/en/

Avalanche danger for Slovenia (euro five-point scale)
http://www.arso.gov.si/vreme/napovedi%20in%20podatki/snegraz.html
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
May 17, 2013 - 09:43am PT
uh oh, here goes some self promotion again - but after all, it is OT...

Here is an updated version of my blog:

http://borutkantuser.wordpress.com

Borut
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 16, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Malo bump za Boruta.

It's been a while.

Que pasa?
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Aug 16, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
Hola Mouse !

Not much... not much

Thanks
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Aug 20, 2013 - 09:18am PT
Mouse, that finger !
Well... two days ago Tedi invited me to climb Akademska on Vežica. A nice line on very cool rock but I almost sh#t in my pants along the unroped part of the descent.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#316934

Borut
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
May 20, 2014 - 10:56am PT
Where yat Borut????

DMT
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
May 20, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
Hello Borut, hope all is well. Gunning for Slovenia (2nd attempt) for shoulder season 2015, thinking late august/early september. Stoked on all the beta youve provided! Perhaps its buried in there somewhere, but has there been an english version of the climbing guide yet?
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