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jrenee
Trad climber
All over the States
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2007 - 04:23pm PT
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Has anyone climbed in Slovenia?
I am doing a trek through Europe, and a friend keeps telling me to go there. Has anyone been, or does anyone want to go?
Joni
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Post a TR if you go. My great-grandparents were from Slovenia (then Austria), and I've always wanted to visit.
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frodolf
climber
Sweden
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I haven't been there, but I've got friends who went there a couple of years ago. They made a road trip through eastern europe. I don't remember what they said about Slovenia exactly, but I do remember them getting back home with loads of great storys and experiences from awesome climbing all over eastern Europe.
Watch out a little though, at some places around there the ethics of climbing can be really hardcore! My friends told me of a place - can't remember where now, could've been Slovenia - where it was prohibited BY LAW to belay with metal; knots and slings only. If you're hoping to avoid Slovenian prison, I suggest you check with the locals about the ethic code of that area.
Have fun!
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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I have climbed in Slovenia and know a bit about it.
What type of climbing are you looking for?
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Borut
climber
french
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frodolf, there are no such prohibitions in Slovenia. Your friends may have spoken of the Saxonian Elbe sandstone towers (in southeast Germany, close to ths Czech border). There are laws there concerning when and how one climbs. This is due to the non compactness of that sandstone. It should be left alone when wet. As additional protection to the installed rings (which are ca 15m apart), one may only use the 'Saxonian knots', balls of rope that one stuffs into a crack. No metal, or anything hard which would damage the rock. I myself only visited the Saxonian towers, but my son extensively climbed there. Great stuff!
Concerning Slovenia, here are two fun TRs I recently posted (more to come, I hope) :
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Slovenia-a-morning-trip-to-268-rni-Kal-crags/t11725n.html
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1967813/TR-No-tooling-along-Sava
Borut
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wallyvirginia
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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I've been there and have friends from there.
It's insanely beautiful (lord of the rings style). The rock is mostly sedimentary and quite fragile, trad climbing is rare in most places. Alpine is great though, lots of ice and spectacular snow gulleys to climb in winter.
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Borut
climber
french
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Hi wallyV
What did you climb? just curious
Borut
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Borut
climber
french
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trad climbing is rare ...depends what you call trad.
There are no bolts on alpine. So you have to deal with the pins, some old some new. We essentially place as little *as possible*... climb as much on friends and webbing as it goes.
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wallyvirginia
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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Hi Borut. Unfortunately didn't climb when I was there. Just travelled around with my family.
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Borut
climber
french
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What do the friends climb?
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wallyvirginia
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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Anything. They live in Kranj and are "students" (climbing bums). Met them rock climbing in Norway and they've been back to climb ice with me in Sweden etc. I don't know the names of any specific climbs in Slovenia if that's what you're asking.
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Borut
climber
french
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Cool
I was asking because you stated that trad is rare. So I wondered where you got the idea from. Hope i didn't sound too defensive though.
But there's a lot of bolted crags for sport/rock summer climbing, yes! (there's ice but not enough and it usually is around for not too long)
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wallyvirginia
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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No worries.
The "trad is rare in most places" statement was based on what I've seen, read and heard from actual climbers. But like I also stated, there are alpine routes.
Zunaj.si is my friends web page, lot's of good articles and pictures. Check it out!
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Borut
climber
french
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Done checking out, to some point. Thumbs up to Norway.
On the limestone walls in Slovenia, the alpine routes are trad, adding pins if necessary, but no bolts.
Edit: checked out a little further. Nice blog Zunaj.si. As far as alpine (trad) routes in Slovenia are concerned, I see only very little though.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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I climbed on two big limestone crags at Osp - just near the Italian border at Trieste. One seems to go under the name of Osp and the other Misjca Pec (spelling?). Osp crag offers hard bolted routes and MP VERY hard! I tried adding a Google map link but it didnt work. Google it.
Also climbed on Triglav which was loose trad terrain...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, melissa... will have to find out what small town, as it was, that my grandfolks were from... and compare notes with yours, :)
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Borut
climber
french
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jaaan, HERE is a cool TR about the Osp Wall, by Michael, a climbing pal of mine.
(bolted MP)
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Borut: Thanks for that. Just read the TR, looking at the Osp topo at the same time. Yes, I know this route but I don't think I've done it. I think I may have done the Internacionala in 1998. In fact that was the second time I climbed at Osp, the first being in 1982 with a friend from Ljubljana. I'd been to a climbing meet at Paklenica a month or so earlier. At the time, Slovenian and Croatian - or I should say Yugoslav - climbers were just beginning to accept free climbing. Let's say there was a good deal of reluctance from some, but it was totally embraced by others - and so my friend wanted to free climb everything. We threw ourselves at Netopir. I remember she used aid on one pitch which I followed free, then I used aid on another and she followed it free. So at the top we'd achieved a sort of team free ascent... well, almost! Later that week we went to Triglav and did Ljublanska free, only to find it was the second free ascent.
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Borut
climber
french
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Thanks jaaan. Paklenica in the 1980s! Great!
Yup, Ljubljanska on Triglav N was freed in 1980 (I.Tomazin). Good on you for being there in those years!
Here is some Osp eye candy, pitch 3 of Stara (pitches 3 and 4 have not yet been freed):
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Borut
climber
french
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Nov 16, 2012 - 02:50am PT
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These are three classic lines on the three (classic) 'must' walls of the Julian Alps: the north walls of Triglav, Travnik and Špik (the image of Špik is a frog view - looks better from the distance LOL).
This is just eye candy: the lines are an approximation.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 27, 2012 - 05:15am PT
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Apparently there are now very real potential access problems at Osp and Misja Pec. Inconsiderate parking and wild camping are upsetting the local people. Just like Buoux in the 8Os, eh? Climbers never learn do they? They are their own worst enemy...
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 05:56am PT
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Haven't been down to Osp for a while - went to the Črni Kal slabs.
What happened in Osp? Did they put up barriers or something?
The forest on the "plateau" above Črni Kal entirely burnt down, the village untouched.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:13am PT
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Look here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=528837 origin apparently from 8a.
Is Lubjlanska on your Triglav photo? If so could you add it please. It was 30 years ago and I don't remember quite where it was!
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:34am PT
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Thanks for dropping by again!
well, for the Osp walls, the parking lot at the camping ground is most convenient. For Miška, it's not too long a walk.
No thanks, I wouldn't draw 'Ljubljanska', which I did not climb. I even have problems drawing what I did climb LOL. See the flowers at the bottom of the Triglav pic? I think that's where 'Ljubljanska' starts.
Edit: is that you EV?
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:21am PT
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No I'm not EV.
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:48am PT
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No offense man.
Does the hint (flower) to the beginning of the climb you did look familiar?
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Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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I spent a few days in Bled, Slovenia in the fall of 2010. From there, you have rock climbing options nearby and mountaineering options in Triglav National Park. The Julian Alps are a playground with a fraction of the people compared to the French/Swiss Alps. Bled has a couple of good outdoor equipment stores.
Slovenia was part of the old Yugoslavia. It's not modern by western standards, which might be a good thing. It's being discovered by tourists, but is still a hidden gem. Wifi and cell coverage were great. The capital of Ljubljana is worth a visit, too.
http://www.coronn.com/TOPOS/slovenia/bled/bled.html
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 10:48am PT
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Playground heh. You mean like in life is a game?
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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no offense man
None taken! I wonder who EV is!
No, I really don't remember where the route was. We started from a refuge (or just a chalet?) near to that huge karabiner. My friend knew exactly where we were going, so I just followed. From the top of the route, if I remember correctly we walked off rightwards and back down to the valley. The next day we started up another route, maybe to the right of Ljubjlanska, but I got hit on the side of the head by a rock whilst still belaying on the ground so we went down. Quite a bit of blood but no damage. Not the limestone of the south of France - but a bit more adventurous!
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Borut
climber
french, spider, cheater
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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E.V. are the initials of a climber I exchanged posts with, on line, a friend of Le Grec.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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Nice exchange guys!
Slovenia......, sounds like a urinary tract infection. HA! KIDDING!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Looks like i need to take a trip to Slovenia. When is the best time of the year for alpine rock climbing?
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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You are very welcome Jim. It's funny, I was just speaking about Latok two days ago with a friend.
Hereabouts, July 15th to September is prolly the best "créneau" as the French say.
As for winter ascents, ahmm, we're still waiting this year, though I did spot Mark Prezelj running down from Brana the day before yesterday.
And some of the dudes are putting up muscle by tooling. Know what: the Log wall (Koritnica, Julian Alps) might, as I hear, even be coming in. The upper part is supposed to look nice, even now.
Borut
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Perhaps next August....i'll keep you posted. How many pitches on those N.Faces you posted?
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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20+ (those walls are 1000 m, 800 m and 900 m tall)
Hey, so you're training for that one day Nose repeat of yours.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Borut, I did the Nose 40 years ago with Peter Minks in one bivouac- fastest at the time.
Now i want to do it with George Lowe in a day for the "Old but not Dead" climbing team.
I've rented a place in Yosemite West for the month of May to help get dialed.
I'll be a couple of months shy of 70 and George will be just shy of 69. We plan to make sure that the rope we use is younger than the team.
I'm climbing pretty well and so is George....in a relative sense that is. Also planning a trip to the Karakorum with old partner Jack Tackle in 2014.....lot's to do before all of the sand runs through the hourglass.
If you ever want to climb in the Utah Desert, the Black Canyon, or the Wind Rivers you know how to find me.
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Both of you are great inspiration. I'm 12 years younger than you are and allready complaining.
I hope we do meet!
Borut
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poli
climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Yo Borut dude ;) thanks for the photos. As you can see, they really came in handy ;)
Poli
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poli
climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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cold, winter day and we found ourselves (Borut, Tedi and I) drytooling again :)
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Feb 17, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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No, I really don't remember where the route was. We started from a refuge (or just a chalet?) near to that huge karabiner.
This karabiner:
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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May 17, 2013 - 09:43am PT
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uh oh, here goes some self promotion again - but after all, it is OT...
Here is an updated version of my blog:
http://borutkantuser.wordpress.com
Borut
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 16, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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Malo bump za Boruta.
It's been a while.
Que pasa?
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Aug 16, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
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Hola Mouse !
Not much... not much
Thanks
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Aug 20, 2013 - 09:18am PT
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Mouse, that finger !
Well... two days ago Tedi invited me to climb Akademska on Vežica. A nice line on very cool rock but I almost sh#t in my pants along the unroped part of the descent.
Borut
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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May 20, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
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Hello Borut, hope all is well. Gunning for Slovenia (2nd attempt) for shoulder season 2015, thinking late august/early september. Stoked on all the beta youve provided! Perhaps its buried in there somewhere, but has there been an english version of the climbing guide yet?
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 14, 2016 - 03:47am PT
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Dober dan, Borut!
My GF and I will be visiting your fine country in September for some climbing near Bohinj, Bled, and Celje. We plan to climb Triglav if the weather permits, and we're hoping to eat at Hisa Franko in Kobarid. We definitely want to hike from dom to dom for a few days regardless of whether we climb Triglav or not.
I was curious for your input on towns to stay in along the way that are convenient to the 3 climbing areas mentioned above. We are going to use airbnb for our lodging except for the doms. We plan to stay in Ljubljana for the first 2 nights, then to move on toward the 2 lake areas, then to Kobarid area and such. Also, if you have suggestions on things or areas "not to miss" we would love to hear. We do plan on going to Postojna caves.
We have a couple friends in Ljubljana to meet with initially. We have 12 days to visit Slovenia after travel.
Thanks for all the info you have provided so far! Perhaps we can meet up
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 15, 2016 - 01:26am PT
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A bump
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