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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
BluntMan
Social climber
92595, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2007 - 04:13pm PT
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Did this route yesterday (7-7-2007) with Charlie. Hiked in from Sawmill Campground. As mentioned in the topo, the approach is a bit tricky but if you bring a compass and a copy of the map in the supertopo guide, you shouldn't have much trouble. It's a big approach...start early or be in good shape.
Lots of variations but we stayed on the ridge the entire route. That's where the best climbing is and where you'll find the most exposure. One series of moves about 3/4 the ways up up is particularly good....thin but easy finger crack that leads to the outside of the ridge where you'll do a super exposed but easy hand-sized crack traverse. There's also one cool diving board section that you can look down and see the entire SW face..awesome.
Drove home this morning and saw Owens Valley was on fire.
Great views of Fairview, Cathedral, Half Dome, etc. Lots of water available all the way to the the plateau above Alpine Lake.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Thanks for posting.
I've done the East Ridge and the North Ridge. I'd like to do the West.
See ya Zander
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Mr. D
Trad climber
West Coast
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Awesome route! Never will forget it!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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with ropes or simul soloing or simulclimbing?
high on the tick list
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Justin Black
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 10, 2007 - 01:11am PT
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It is indeed a fantastic classic route, aesthetically beautiful in so many ways. I simul-climbed it a few years ago with two friends on about 100ft. of rope. It's the perfect route for protecting with a few pieces and slung blocks between each climber. Like a lot of alpine routes, it can take longer than expected with the approach and descent. We hit the trail from sawmill campground at 7:30am, and returned to the car by 9:00pm.
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BluntMan
Social climber
92595, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
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Mungeclimber,
We simulclimbed most of the route in about 4 pitches. I lead the first block of about 400 feet and then charlie led the rest to about 300 feet from the top. Then we unroped and 3rd classed to the summit.
The approach was the crux. The climbing was cool and easy.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 16, 2007 - 06:49pm PT
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thx Bluntman
seems the longness of the day is def the crux.
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enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
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Apr 24, 2010 - 01:32am PT
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Karl, whats up with not wearing any underwear? Maybe thats why you didnt send?
Nice pics by the way!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 25, 2010 - 10:34am PT
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I thought I was sending! Just topped out on a non-route
Good thing too. It wasn't as classic as I'd been told!
Peace
Karl
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Apr 25, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Nice TR!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Apr 25, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
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Bravo! Dingus sweet TR
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Apr 25, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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Classic photo op on the W Ridge...photo courtesy Tom Rogers
Frank Baker
Summit photo taken with throw away camera courtesy Frank Baker
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