W Ridge Conness....Short TR

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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
BluntMan

Social climber
92595, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2007 - 04:13pm PT
Did this route yesterday (7-7-2007) with Charlie. Hiked in from Sawmill Campground. As mentioned in the topo, the approach is a bit tricky but if you bring a compass and a copy of the map in the supertopo guide, you shouldn't have much trouble. It's a big approach...start early or be in good shape.

Lots of variations but we stayed on the ridge the entire route. That's where the best climbing is and where you'll find the most exposure. One series of moves about 3/4 the ways up up is particularly good....thin but easy finger crack that leads to the outside of the ridge where you'll do a super exposed but easy hand-sized crack traverse. There's also one cool diving board section that you can look down and see the entire SW face..awesome.

Drove home this morning and saw Owens Valley was on fire.

Great views of Fairview, Cathedral, Half Dome, etc. Lots of water available all the way to the the plateau above Alpine Lake.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jul 9, 2007 - 05:13pm PT
Thanks for posting.
I've done the East Ridge and the North Ridge. I'd like to do the West.
See ya Zander
Mr. D

Trad climber
West Coast
Jul 9, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
Awesome route! Never will forget it!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 9, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
with ropes or simul soloing or simulclimbing?

high on the tick list

JohnRoe

Trad climber
State College, PA
Jul 9, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
Five-year-old TR

http://www.math.psu.edu/roe/writings/conness.html

Justin Black

Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 10, 2007 - 01:11am PT
It is indeed a fantastic classic route, aesthetically beautiful in so many ways. I simul-climbed it a few years ago with two friends on about 100ft. of rope. It's the perfect route for protecting with a few pieces and slung blocks between each climber. Like a lot of alpine routes, it can take longer than expected with the approach and descent. We hit the trail from sawmill campground at 7:30am, and returned to the car by 9:00pm.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 10, 2007 - 03:03am PT
My Failed attempt, gotta go back

http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/ConnessSoloadventure.html

Karl
BluntMan

Social climber
92595, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
Mungeclimber,

We simulclimbed most of the route in about 4 pitches. I lead the first block of about 400 feet and then charlie led the rest to about 300 feet from the top. Then we unroped and 3rd classed to the summit.

The approach was the crux. The climbing was cool and easy.
BluntMan

Social climber
92595, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2007 - 04:18pm PT
Here's some pics of the approach/climb.

[url=http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=illt7er.4vk9gtz3&x=0&y=96et65] [/url]
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 16, 2007 - 06:49pm PT
thx Bluntman

seems the longness of the day is def the crux.

Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Jul 16, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
Yo mungie I'll do it with you some time bro. Been up it a few times, happy to do it again. Throw in the North Ridge for a 2fer.

Um....

here are some pics of the last time Angus and I were up there:

Sierra Triumvirate
This was a very nice day in the mountains.


North Ridge of North Peak.


There goes Angus


Uh... WHICH WAY AGAIN???


Conness from the summit of N Peak


Business as usual.


In honor of Galen Rowell, RIP.


N Ridge of Conness.


The great part of the North Ridge of Conness.


Summit of Conness.


Down we go to the West Ridge.


Simul-climbed it using a 8.1 half rope, haha.


The belay is bomber Dingus, now GO!


Nearly there.


Angus and I have been partners for 20 years now.


He puts up with my sanctimonious ass for some reason.


Probably because I keep the fires STOKED!


Now lets get the f*#k out of here and go to TPR for some meatloaf! (we're trad climbers after all)


That's my story, I'm sticking to it.

Try it, you'll like it! That's a lotta granite!

DMT

Pate

Trad climber
Apr 24, 2010 - 12:02am PT
DMT rockin' a furry lip bump. Beautiful cruise on Conness guys.
enjoimx

Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
Apr 24, 2010 - 01:32am PT
Karl, whats up with not wearing any underwear? Maybe thats why you didnt send?

Nice pics by the way!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 25, 2010 - 10:34am PT
I thought I was sending! Just topped out on a non-route

Good thing too. It wasn't as classic as I'd been told!

Peace

Karl
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Apr 25, 2010 - 11:51am PT
Nice TR!
Reeotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
Apr 25, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
Bravo! Dingus sweet TR
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 25, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
Classic photo op on the W Ridge...photo courtesy Tom Rogers

Frank Baker

Summit photo taken with throw away camera courtesy Frank Baker
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