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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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My own feeling is that the climbing community should take back the role stewarding the "guidebooks" from commercial interests.
First, I have a real problem with the appropriation of "intellectual property" which was at one time in the public domain, locking it up legally in copyright, and then providing intermittent, supplementary updates based on marketing rather than relevance to the climbing community. This is exacerbated by the effective monopoly of guidebook production that has occurred because of the very low "return on investment" publishing houses see in the guidebook market.
If a corporation cannot make money on guidebooks, then why not have the climbing collective take back the process of producing a guide? This is happening with the advent of print-on-demand publishing.
Second, we could easily put together a website with this information on it... and serve it out to the community. The SuperTopoForum is one such place, Mountain Project another... and maybe even the YCA, given the historic nature of many of these climbs. In many ways, this is a preferable mode of getting the information out there on the historic routes.
Finally, climbers should be encouraged to view climbs not as a "conquest" of a particular vertical feature, but as a "journey" whose successful conclusion does not have to be attaining the summit, or the Valley rim whatever the case may be. Climbers who start out on a "4th class adventure" may very well be turned back for many reasons. Turning back is not a bad thing at all, and a skill that is badly atrophied in our modern climbing zeitgeist.
This last point is just a way of saying, go out there and do it... don't wait for the guidebook. And report back here!
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Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
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WOW! Ed, thank you so much for posting the link to the 1940 climbers guide guide. That is really cool; appreciate the route links. Repeating the Charles Micheal FAs would be fun and enlightening. If such an opportunity presents itself, I will report back with where, how and why we turned back on each.
wow, again thanks as I note that it is not available through Advanced Book Exchange...
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Ed, your link and post above deserve a thread of their own, imo. Thanks much for the resource, dl'd and appreciated.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Great post, Ed. perhaps Ken can host it on YCA
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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This thread is a gem. Great thoughts Ed.
I gotta look for some of Roper's old info.
Tenaya canyon is grand...
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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the approach to Steck-Salathe is 3rd class with a few 4th class moves... and it's a great place
If you are going to suggest that, why not just scramble up the Steck-Salathe "descent" all the way to the top?
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Ed,
I like your idea of non-copyright guidebooks.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 15, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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Bump this classic for info (o/t?)
This thread speaks to me. Planning on a possible Indian Canyon father son trip this weekend. Any thoughts here on wether the flow has dropped in that creek yet?
File this question under 'Obscurata'
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Aug 15, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
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The flow in Indian Creek is pretty low now, but you can navigate the entire canyon on the west side without getting wet.
This is a nice thread.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 15, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
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Ed,
Thanks for posting the Leonard and Brower guide link. What a special glimpse into the roots of Valley climbing.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 15, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
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I did a fun scramble up a notch in Basket Dome a while back.
When I volunteered on Mt San Jacinto, I always registered where I would be on my excursions. There are some brillient scrambles up there. I told the S&R Guys that should I go missing, look for me where the trail does not go.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 15, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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Thanks for the info G Stock. 4th Class Scrambles.
Is there any easy way up the front of Cloud's Rest?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 16, 2011 - 03:45am PT
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Hopefully these overlays are about right. If not, describe what to change?
The route, or at least the first part through the crux, may coincide with the climb "Diving Board - West Side" in the Roper guide:
"Start from Mirror Lake and ascend a brush-filled gully for 2,500 feet.
The face above is class 4."
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whitey1
climber
california
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:59am PT
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How's it for rockfall and munge?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:03am PT
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I would advise takin' yer own(our own?) Munge. If he's available.
Hehehe. Dig that wanderin'. I've done a bit up there, too. Made the Rim. Not sure how. Big fat fun, that.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 17, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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This is a great thread!
Thanks Warbler for sharing info on this way up to the west base of HD
Ed, in case you don't already know about it, here is an interesting legal alternative to copyright called "copyleft" that would provide a legally defensible framework to your excellent vision of how to disseminate climbing route information in a way that would not permit others to restrict it's use in the future:
http://www.gnu.org/philosophy/nonsoftware-copyleft.html
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 27, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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In 1990 I went up Snow Creek. I skirted the lower fall (too steep), and slipped into the canyon above from the slope to the right of the creek. From there you can negotiate your way around several steps/ falls to the top, and return to the valley via the trail (or continue to 120). It's pretty pedestrian, the value is more in just being somewhere very little travelled.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 27, 2013 - 02:37am PT
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Allow about all day
If you go to play
On or about Middle Cathedral's NW Buttress, to the far right side of it, I GUESS...
From the top of the Gunsight it is not necessary to fifth class except for one pitch out of Bridalveil Creek, to reach the summit of MCR.
I'd tell you more, but there would be no adventure, would it?
Annie Rizzi and I climbed one short, moderately steep crack, maybe a bit longer than half a pitch, laughed at an old iron horizontal (Army), which was booty, and we may have placed one or two Stoppers over the whole route. The NW Buttress description Roper delivers is just as vague as the route(s) up this meandering blend of brush, short slabs and corners, and pine trees. Take a rope, no specific length, and biners and runners, too.
If a name were applied, Do Your Own Thing might fit nicely.
And don't never drink from Bridalveil unless you're equipped with filtering!!!
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