Largest overhangs in Yosemite and Nor Cal - info please

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the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2007 - 03:13pm PT
I'm checking out multiple spots for a photo shoot and wondering if anyone can suggest places I may have missed, and beta for finding some of the places below.

I'm looking for big roofs or overhangs. High above the ground is a plus. Easy access is a big plus.

In Yosmite:

Seperate Reality, this is easy to find.

Heaven, I know it's on the way to Glacier Point any other beta to locate?

Owl Roof, location?

Dog's Roof, location?

Kor Roof, easy to find.

Half Dome's visor, easy to find, access- not so easy.


Here's some others, I know where these are, but good examples of what I'm looking for.

Donner Summit:
Star Walls

Lover's Leap:
Some big roofs on the East Wall

Any others?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 6, 2007 - 03:19pm PT
Couple more leap roofs:
The big top on Traveller Buttress, although it's a traverse and I don't know that anyone has free'd out it.

There are some gnar roofs on the west wall, variation finish to Vanishing Point and 3rd stone...

If you can get someone to lead 5.12 you could probably get some killer shots of Big Thunder from Corrugation corner. Never seen anyone on that thing...

Top of Dear John buttress has some .11 fist through roof finish.

Crown Royal has a fun 3' roof pull.

Eagle buttress has smaller roofs on it, but havent' done those because of the birdies.

none of those are near as big as the owl or separate reality though.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jul 6, 2007 - 03:39pm PT
Has anyone done Free Clinic at Apathy Buttress? The topo advertizes a 25' roof crack at 11b...so it sounds like it must be perfect hands or else it would be harder! Is it?
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 6, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
Yow!, I'm going to check That one out.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 6, 2007 - 03:43pm PT
Oh yeah, check out Lightning Bolt Roof on the Black Wall @ Donner. Maybe a 8-10' roof hand/fist crack. Looked pretty cool. I think there's a roof called Karl's Overhang there too that's supposed to be some horizontal hands, but I haven't seen it. I think the Lightning Bolt roof would be pretty accessible though, probably a walk up.

Russ Walling informative climbing info EDIT:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/tahoe_vicinity/donner_pass/105736387?highlightphrase=lightning+bolt+roof&
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Jul 6, 2007 - 03:51pm PT
lovers leap:

third stone from the sun on west wall.

.11 offwidth out a big roof
bonin_in_the_boneyard

Trad climber
Up the 'Creek w/out a Prada
Jul 6, 2007 - 03:54pm PT
I've _attempted_ Karl's Overhang. The Jams are bomber until you get over the lip, and then it's kinda off-fingers. Def stout.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jul 6, 2007 - 03:56pm PT
Also...my bf and Rob Miller did a route w/ a 25 ft? (IIRC) 11d hands roof called the "Champagne of Beers Roof" near the top of Higher Spire. (Route = "High Life") The crack is at the junction of the wall and the roof. The rest of the route is 5.10. (Or so I'm told.)

Edit: Neither of my suggestions are "easy access".
DavisGunkie

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Jul 6, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
what about the stuff over by the farce. there is that 5.12 "roof" over there. its not huge but youre almost full on horizontal for a move or two.

there is also that rooflet on the bolted climb to the right of surreliestic pillar
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2007 - 05:23pm PT
Thanks for the replies,

here's a photo of Karl's Overhang


Nice, and super easy access, but not very far above the ground.
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2007 - 05:26pm PT
What I'm looking for doesn't *have* to be a roof, just the more overhanging and tall the better.

e.g. here's Star Walls at Donner.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jul 6, 2007 - 05:27pm PT
Top of the Rostrum?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 6, 2007 - 05:37pm PT
Mitch, I don't think you get too horizontal on that .12 right of the farce. All 6 of the routes over there feature fun and powerful moves to surmount that bulge, but the overhang section is pretty short. Plus, you wouldn't get much exposure for photos, as it is beneath treeline.

The bolted line with the roof right of surrealistic is Crown Royal, a very fun .10c.
gonz

Trad climber
Yofukinsemite
Jul 6, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
I had the largest hang over in the valley, i dunno about over hang. Its too hot to even think about climbing
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Jul 6, 2007 - 07:13pm PT
Some seriously overhanging stuff to the left of Banzai! on Calaveras Dome. Can be approached via Banzai then rapped...

if you tie a bunch of ropes together...
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jul 6, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
Grand Illusion?


What's that roof near the top of the Higher Cathedral (noth face)?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 6, 2007 - 08:21pm PT
Heaven, just below the Glacier Point Railing to the East, is easy Access with a great backdrop

Peace

Karl
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 6, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
JB: Gravity Ceiling, Higher Cathedral.
DavisGunkie

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Jul 7, 2007 - 02:04am PT
yea, i actually don't think the roof itself is that hard, not nearly as hard as the face.

i think Crown Royal would be nice, that was a fun sequence through that roof with some decent altitude
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 7, 2007 - 02:28am PT
Karl's is one scary on sight solo!


But that lightning bolt roof, is pretty steep too;

still, there's lot's bigger roofs out there.
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