Eldo Prancers

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bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 2, 2007 - 12:47pm PT
Pretty funny comment from Russ.

Post up!

CG on second ascent of Rainbow Wall


D Hershey


some poser on...Wendego


CG on the FA of Paris Girl


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 2, 2007 - 12:55pm PT
Bob, you got a new scanner?

I could find a few more old ones, from the days real men wore white pants.
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Jul 2, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
Great shots Bob!
That one of Derek with his wild hair cracked me up.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 2, 2007 - 07:08pm PT
Nice Bob,
That's what Russ W was talkin' 'bout!

I ain't got much and we have seen far to little of Eldo on this forum: so post up Chiloe and everybody.


Sue Wint on Genesis:


Tim Toula, aka TNT, wigglin' up Pansee Savage:

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 2, 2007 - 07:51pm PT
Roger setting a hex before firing Art's Spar, 1974.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 2, 2007 - 07:58pm PT
Eldorado certainly has pretty....rock.

"Now, Dasher! now, Dancer! now, Prancer and Vixen!
On, Comet! on Cupid! on, Donder and Blitzen!"

I'm looking forward to the dondering thread.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 2, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
Eldo Prancer, Jim Collins:

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2007 - 12:02am PT
Tar...LeVoid...Classic route.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 3, 2007 - 01:45am PT
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 3, 2007 - 01:49am PT
Air Sepia
jack herer

climber
veneta, or
Jul 3, 2007 - 02:48am PT
bob-
on your third photo down... whats up with the chalk smear? from peope falling or what?

edit: or is that the rock... am i drunk or what?
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jul 3, 2007 - 03:23am PT
What I like is the generosity of climbers, true climbers, such as Peter Croft and John Bachar. They would never say they had anything on the Colorado climbers, because they know they don't but also because they know the deeper truths that people are individuals and artists in their own right and come from different backgrounds and different experience. It behooves us all to see into both dark and light and see into the hearts of people and know their very individual gifts. Petty comparisons have only one end: to reduce one person or one group of persons and elevate another, to make precious souls seem of no worth, and for the purpose of some cowardly little ego grandiosity.

When Peter in the early 1990s climbed my 1965 Supremacy Crack, a little tale of my youth, making easy work of it, he didn't tell me or anyone else what a trivial thing it is. He didn't do the climb to prove his superiority. He phoned me and congratulated me on what an achievement it was for its time. He has always had the right perspective, a beautiful soul pure and untainted by the obscene contentions and insecurities of those braying about how superior they or their fellows are to others. Peter also phoned me and told me he finally, after a lot of work, had repeated one of my 1968 boulder problems in Yosemite. He could have kept that a secret, that he had to work at it. He is humble, though. He is honest. When he and I roped up one day and did an old 5.10+ route of mine on Castle Rock, in a slight rain, I watched a master at work. I was perfectly fine recognizing him as my superior, and my superior in a vast way. But he never made me feel such was so. We were comrades, friends on a nice climb on a day when rain fell in bright sunlight.

Some person a short while back blurted that Katy Brown could out climb me. Was that supposed to be a surprise? That's a ridiculous as someone telling John Salathe that Bridwell could outclimb him. Do you think Bridwell, though, ever would show such disrespect? Or that Katy Brown would ever show such contempt? Bridwell knows the contribution Salathe made and how far advanced Salathe was in his day, how bold those early climbs were. David Breashears once wrote me, "You must forgive the young hot shots. They sometimes forget whose shoulders they are standing on to see the horizons of the day."

Prancers, pulling hard, all this terminology. It's just a ruse. What we will remember are the climbs, the sun, the light, the pines, their fragrance... but mostly climbs we did with some good friend from Colorado or California, or elsewhere, on some voluptuous day at some adventurous moment, brief though it was, in eternity.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 3, 2007 - 03:42am PT
very nice Pat
thanks
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2007 - 08:26am PT
Pat hit the nail on head. All of us are standing on someone else shoulders.

If burning someone off is all you take home from a climbing day...something is wrong.

I remember my first meeting with Gill. I had no expectations on his climbing prowness...I just knew I was around greatness.

Jack...the chalk is from palming.
Crag Q

Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
Jul 3, 2007 - 08:41am PT
Beautiful Pat.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jul 3, 2007 - 08:42am PT
I thought the best climbers came from the Bahamas.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 3, 2007 - 11:20am PT
Eldo is a treasure trove of really interesting routes.
Its one of those places, much like others and maybe a bit moreso, that reveals itself as you get into it.
Very intricate stuff.

In that picture of Collins on the cover of Mountain 79, he's just exited a balls out, first knuckle, double overhung layback.
(I can't comment on the big roof crux above, out of the picture).

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 3, 2007 - 11:25am PT
Yes Pat Ament, as always, some pretty steady words there.
Thanks for hangin' in here with us.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 3, 2007 - 11:28am PT
Greg Cameron, expat Cali Boy, on the upper section of Anthill Direct:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 3, 2007 - 11:38am PT
One of the most beloved of all Eldorado climbers,
Derek Hersey, who called Eldo "The Office":


-From "The Climbing Art"
Pat Ament's magazine.
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