What is the most unusual pitch youv'e climbed?


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KP Ariza

Apr 21, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
Here's a link to the Reed Pitch thread. There are more photos somewhere on the forum. Turns out its been done by more than just a few. Done the hand crack tons of times and never even thought to go into that black hole. Crazy looking climb.


Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
Cloud Tower in Red Rocks is a memorable one for me. On the 5th(?) pitch you climb a widening crack until you can squeeze yourself into it, then you downclimb on the inside ~15 feet to the belay ledge. My partner only brought the wide pro for the pitch and ended up belaying me on a carabiner chock with a body belay backup. The next pitch (pictured) was this short solo to the next belay up a squeeze then out a small cave in the back.

Urs on the heinous crux of Cloud Towner
Urs on the heinous crux of Cloud Towner
Credit: Coolcarl

Social climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Swiss Cheese at the City
BITB The Rotten Log
The Evil Tree Pitch on the WFLT

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jun 20, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Super Squeeze on the Dome in Boulder canyon. If you want to know what it feels like to be a piece of protection..... If you've put on a few lbs, then you get to go scary, outside. And oh yeah, the key hand jam is basically a fist full of bird goo. I've heard it called everything from 5.9+ to 5.11, what it is is 5.weird/desperate in my book.

Courtesy Dan Mottinger and mp.com
Courtesy Dan Mottinger and mp.com
Credit: ydpl8s

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 20, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
"Petite Capucin" in the Sierra

You jump from the top of a pillar

There's an old climb that no one does that goes to the base of the lowest Watkins Pinnacle from Tenaya Canyon. It's mostly quite easy, but one section requires a long horizontal jump, and isn't mentioned in either the green or red Roper guide. After reading the Sierra Club Bulletin account of the first ascent, however, I was relieved to find the first ascent party mention the pitch as "Air Flight Delight." I think Al Steck and Dick Long, among others, were part of the FA party. Pretty entertaining!

Then again, there's always Superfly at Suicide.

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