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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Apr 21, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Swiss Cheese at the City
BITB The Rotten Log
The Evil Tree Pitch on the WFLT
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 20, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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Super Squeeze on the Dome in Boulder canyon. If you want to know what it feels like to be a piece of protection..... If you've put on a few lbs, then you get to go scary, outside. And oh yeah, the key hand jam is basically a fist full of bird goo. I've heard it called everything from 5.9+ to 5.11, what it is is 5.weird/desperate in my book.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 20, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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"Petite Capucin" in the Sierra
You jump from the top of a pillar
There's an old climb that no one does that goes to the base of the lowest Watkins Pinnacle from Tenaya Canyon. It's mostly quite easy, but one section requires a long horizontal jump, and isn't mentioned in either the green or red Roper guide. After reading the Sierra Club Bulletin account of the first ascent, however, I was relieved to find the first ascent party mention the pitch as "Air Flight Delight." I think Al Steck and Dick Long, among others, were part of the FA party. Pretty entertaining!
Then again, there's always Superfly at Suicide.
John
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