What is the most unusual pitch youv'e climbed?


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Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
I think the 5.3x pitch on Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks is pretty cool, no pics though. A gently rising slab with a roof chimney rising along with you. A decent pitch length in semi-darkness (headlamp optional).

Then there's that Reed's Direct vertical tunnel-through I'll eventually get around to.

Goat Rock Overhang at Castle Rocks is pretty amazing stuff. Somebody must have pics of that one. That view when your back/but is plastered to the ceiling and you're looking straight down at the ground 80 feet below, then the big reach to the lip and cut the feet loose. Wild and cool and unusual for a route that mortals can do.

Santa Cruz
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
What's My Line? at Cochise was pretty amazing. It's like a football field that is half covered by chickenheads. To give the photo scale, there is a climber in the top right of the photo.
Credit: Adamame

Gym climber
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
I don't have a photo, but the first pitch of Humanality in Thailand was pretty unusual. It's a 60+' tree that you climb to get to the rock. The 3rd pitch of that route is pretty crazy too (where you transfer over to the stalactite).

Trad climber
primordial soup
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
more monkey than funky felt "unusual"

linking all the chimneys on the RNWFoHD

the fisher/beck pitch on the EBofLCR

another vote for on the lamb as well

Thank God Ledge is pretty unusual too

Feb 25, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
Skinny Dip in Jtree is pretty weird.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
Feb 25, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
I'm going with the sea of giant plates on the Wasteland at Cochise
Credit: Mike Diesen

and Owl Rock in Arches--reminded me of climbing stacked excericise balls
Credit: supertopo

Edit: second on Skinny Dip. (If I remember, Largo once squeezed himself through that thing.)
Skinny dip from Mnt. Proj.
Skinny dip from Mnt. Proj.
Credit: Matt Carpenter

Edit again: one night at Hueco, five of us wedged in the Devils butt hole. Then one guy cuts loose on his didgeridoo. Out-of-body, I tell ya.


Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 25, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
Never been there but heard interesting things about the devils butthole in hueco. From what I understand this is like climbing up a vertical tube that stops at some point, then you down climb. My friend Jeff told me Verm took him there and had made him pound a few beers and then do it without a headlamp. Not knowing when to stop and without light, Jeff made one last move and almost knocked himself out hitting his head at the top. Said it really stunk up there from all the stale air.

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 25, 2011 - 05:23pm PT

Bouldered a hand crack on the back side of the Colossus of Memnon on the west bank of the Nile outside Luxor.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 25, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
Skinny Dip in Jtree is pretty weird.

When I'd seen that Largo did the FA, I thought, no sweat, if he can fit, so can I (we're near the same size...certainly not stature...ha ha).

Not even close. He musta done that thing when he was 12...

Tunnel Vision, yeah, pretty cool. Also Black Dagger is similar. Ditto the North Ridge of Steeple in the Windys when you disappear inside the mountain, and re-appear near the summit. Crazy.

Heffalump Trap at Castle Rock in Idaho. Goes through a cool hole.

Did a route in the Devoluy (sp?) in France. Chimney up a dark slot that went deeper into the mountain for two pitches. Then, stem out bomb bay and up into the light again. Right at the end of it, I stepped up and back onto the floor in front of me, only to have it collapse and leave me hanging, barely, by my hands. Eeek.


Trad climber
Bay Area
Feb 25, 2011 - 06:04pm PT
Goat Rock Overhang at Castle Rocks is pretty amazing stuff. Somebody must have pics of that one.

At your service.....
Getting into the cave is the first weird move
Getting into the cave is the first weird move
Credit: HighTraverse
Then you reach way out under the roof
Then you reach way out under the roof
Credit: HighTraverse
Out from under the roof
Out from under the roof
Credit: HighTraverse
Grab the jug....NOW what????
Grab the jug....NOW what????
Credit: HighTraverse
Hang in there &#40;different climber, same day&#41;
Hang in there (different climber, same day)
Credit: HighTraverse
After the heel hook it's easy.
After the heel hook it's easy.
Credit: HighTraverse

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Feb 25, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
The shot and move that Hooblie was referring to:
TKingsbury collection
TKingsbury collection
Credit: edejom

The FA was done by a(nother) small guy who straight-on "power" mantled it--I did the second ascent the way that Tom is attempting it in the photo...

edit: the weird/crux part is digging in your heels like a bucking bronc for the set up move, and trying not to bruise ribs while rotating backwards in a somersault fashion:-)

Social climber
Feb 25, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
THAT ^^^^^ IS HILARIOUS !!!!!!

I think a coolio unusual pitch I once did was on a new route on Mt Munday & we climbed up a rib of snow 50' or so that I recall.....that ended on a perfect arete of snow which went for about 1/2 a rope length or so. Perfect arete with good quality exposure on both sides.


Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 25, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
Charlotte has some wierd stuff for sure. I always thought Saucer full of Secrets on Dome Rock was cool. It looks blank at times, but every time you move up a nice little pocket seems to appear.

Oakland: what's not to love?
Feb 25, 2011 - 07:03pm PT
Middendorf's written description of the wormholes high up on Trango has always stuck with me. So weird, so high, so unimaginable.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 25, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
found pic on the net
found pic on the net
Credit: mike m
Jaybro, have you ever climbed that pyramid that is a monument to some railroad guy that is across the interstate from Vedauwoo. I know I have a picture somewhere.

Trad climber
Feb 25, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
The rotten log pitch on Royal Arches was unusual, as was the Gendarme at Seneca Rocks, WV. Both are long gone. New Diversions and Chicken Pie are also fun and unique. The Hollow Flake pitch (Salathe) and the Thank God Ledge traverse on HD are one-of-kind as well. There are many.
gonzo chemist

Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
Feb 25, 2011 - 09:08pm PT

Without a doubt: 'Hot Dog in a Bun', at Split Rock. Joshua Tree. Stemming, chicken wings, heel-toe, gastons, foot-scissoring. But its not an offwidth, its not a chimney, and its not a dihedral.

stolen from MP.com
Credit: gonzo chemist

Feb 25, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
Probably the north face of Teewinot in the Tetons. Near the top there is an ice coated tunnel that goes through the mountain and exits on the south face. From the cold, dark north face you can look through the tunnel and see a warm and friendly Jackson Hole. Didn't actually go through the tunnel, but paused for the view. ca1956

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 26, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
The first pitch of Magnolia Thunderpussy gets all the hype due to its awesome geometry,
But the second pitch "pussy" is pretty unusual, as is the third, where you are "birthed" through the hole on to the summit.

Social climber
Feb 26, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Definitely "Mines of Moria" at Smith Rock. You need a headlamp to find gear placements and holds. From the new guide description:

5.8 R **. Nothing at Smith compares to this claustrophobic chimney. Jam and stem to a roof and say goodbye to daylight as you enter an eerie chimney behind a missing section of column. Squirm towards the light high above and follow another hidden chimney to the top of the cliff.

From the internet:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#192618
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