What is the most unusual pitch youv'e climbed?

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Messages 1 - 87 of total 87 in this topic
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 29, 2007 - 02:02pm PT
Here's mine

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Jun 29, 2007 - 02:18pm PT
Wawona Dome?

Ken
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Jun 29, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
if it were a Competition...

I'd say you've already WON...

that is UNUSUAL...

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 29, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
now that's cool


here's mine...

Gene

climber
Jun 29, 2007 - 02:43pm PT
You look like a STD causing spirocete from those old high school health class movies.

My brain...there's something attacking it.... AWWWWWW
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 29, 2007 - 03:52pm PT
The one which comes to mind first is this old classic:

G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
Jun 29, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
Pretty funny, I have been climbing in the meadows for 30+ years and have never done On the Lamb. I might just have to do it this year.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jun 29, 2007 - 04:01pm PT
Clint, that is such a great route! I just did it for the first
time a couple of weeks ago--one of the best, oddest, natural
features.

One that was different for me was Embarrassment of Rich's. The first piece was a #0 TCU, quickly followed by a #6 Friend.

But that first pic also reminds me of the Devil's Butthole in Heuco. Certainly Ctrange.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 29, 2007 - 04:12pm PT
Hard to say
after this one,

(sorry no lead phots, frankly I was glad the belayer paid too much attention to record it)which of course led directly to this one

not to mention;

this

and even this

A lot of stuff seemed more pedestrian.

But a solid day in cave rock or the steeper parts of rifle or maple do that too. INMHO the King swing, the ear, Mines of Moria, bowels of the Owl, virtually any pitch in Texas canyon, various hooking pitches and a lot of Otto's route are all pretty out there.
I'm interested in what others come up with, photos will make this all the more fun!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2007 - 04:50pm PT
Ken, way to let the cat out of the bag.

Munge, did you top out on that thing? What kind of rock?


Heres another shot



and one more

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Jun 29, 2007 - 05:03pm PT
Very cool Jeff. That has to be the best natural pro I have ever seen.

Ken
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 29, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
Near the aforementioned Otto route is the Bell Tower (the Kissing Couple) with a highly memorable finish more spectacular than J Crack.

But far and away for me was the final tree climb on the FA of the South Face of Cerberus.
After "prussiking" up the enormous trunk of a ponderosa pine for 85' I swung out to the summit prow successfully only to then be plucked off when the tree swayed out in the wind.
Bam!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 29, 2007 - 05:13pm PT
I want one of what tork showed us.
onyourleft

Social climber
SmogAngeles
Jun 29, 2007 - 05:29pm PT
Here's mine:



Looking Glass Rock - Moab
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jun 29, 2007 - 09:15pm PT
p4- Tangerine Trip
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Jun 29, 2007 - 09:24pm PT
anything 5.8 or harder that i actually send is pretty unusual.

tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 29, 2007 - 09:27pm PT
Wawona Dome eh? That looks not only unusual but totally awesome. Please Please Please. Rrettty please with sugar on top tell us what that is?

I'm clausterphopic I'll never do the route. Don't worry I won't ruin it.

As for the most unusual route I have climbed. there were a few in Thailand that I did that were totally whacked. Maybe they are normal in Limestone places but I live in CA so its granite or shitty rock.

Tom
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 29, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
The only dead vertical 5.8 lead sporting a 50' runout on face holds that could break and the possibilty of grounding on to a car that I've done, is the Needles eye, but there are wierder ptches than that.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Jun 29, 2007 - 09:52pm PT
Parkay Squeeze (sp) you don't even need a rope, it would only get in the way.

Ken
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 29, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
I found the "Castaway Roof" at Josh pretty unique...Starts fingers to thin hands, then hands to fists, off-width with knee-bar rest...then squeeze through the formation to top out like you're leaving the womb!! Used to think it was tough at first but after a few times a solo was in order.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 30, 2007 - 12:05am PT


And, if you use a rope, it doesn't need to be long!





-is that backwards?-
cliffhanger

Trad climber
California
Jun 30, 2007 - 12:12am PT
The Root Canal at Suicide Rock. A four sided chimney. Pretty neat.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Jun 30, 2007 - 12:12am PT
Deep Throat is pretty wierd, but beautiful too.


Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 30, 2007 - 12:22am PT
I really love the weird.
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Jun 30, 2007 - 06:59am PT
damn jello, thats looks freekin gnarly. cool photo.

justthemaid

climber
Los Angeles
Jun 30, 2007 - 07:09am PT
Thailand had a whole bunch of crazy climbs.

Climb the weird drippy wall. Route peters out. Oh sh#t- gotta step across the freaky void to a free hanging stalagtite hanging in mid air behind you. The BF climbed one that ended in a tunnel that looks a lot like the OP's first pic.

Starting Au Nang tower out of a floating boat was pretty entertaining. Rappelling back into the boat was fun too.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 21, 2007 - 11:06am PT


This one is sort of wierd...(The climb;..not the lad..)
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jul 22, 2007 - 07:49am PT
Most unusual I "haven't" climbed...fall '07 perhaps...




Jaybro, this looks "most unusual" as well...

Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Jul 22, 2007 - 11:30am PT
One that comes to mind is King Tut's Tomb at Little Egypt.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jul 22, 2007 - 12:23pm PT
Imaginary Voyage deserves at least an honorable mention.
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
Feb 25, 2011 - 10:00am PT
Interesting thread bump! More pictures! Which I don't have any of, but the sea of chicken heads near the top of Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth were pretty wild.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Feb 25, 2011 - 10:15am PT
Too small to be called a pitch, really, and no names, but there's a
four-way slot accessible only by climbing down into it from the flat top
of this formation Dingus showed me.
Climb down an easy chimney to a flat sandy bottom, look out through the
rock to a climb which may have somebody on it 15 feet from you horizontally,
choices for climbing back up include a 5.9 squeeze, a 5.10
offwidth and the aforementioned easy chimney, with stemming options
available if the other climbs get scary on the way up.
Like, being able to step off into total security in the middle of a 5.10 move.
hooblie

climber
from where the anecdotes roam
Feb 25, 2011 - 10:38am PT
don't remember the details, just the delight of wondering "what just happened there?"
the "there" being siberian swarm screw

as to vicarious viewage, nothing rivals this TK crew frivolity up batholith way:

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/39/img8201sm.jpg
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Feb 25, 2011 - 10:55am PT
The jump across on Oak Creek Spire.

Chris2

Trad climber
Feb 25, 2011 - 11:04am PT
For me: Many of the sport climbs at Smith Rocks.

Make a couple moves, traverse to clip the bolt. Make a couple moves, traverse to clip the bolt. Make a couple moves, traverse to clip the bolt. Maintain this continuum until anchors are reached.
MH2

climber
Feb 25, 2011 - 11:13am PT
Old Age at Squamish:

a cedar stump, a cedar root, a big corner, a sort-of chimney, and likely to be wet










but for unusual, this amalgam of clay and sawdust in South Africa also had caves with the usual pieces of pottery


Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Who'll stop the reign?
Feb 25, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
I always thought that Wave pitch thing on White Punks on Dope to be pretty unusual for such an 'accessible' climb.

DMT
anees

climber
temporary exile from the land of enchantment
Feb 25, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
I'm surprised these two haven't been mentioned yet: The fissures pitch on Charlotte Dome... and the Narrows on the Steck-Salathe! Sorry no pics (of my own) of either pitch.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Feb 25, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
the OP's route looks like one of the hydraulic cylinders at fossil falls.

the spelunker's variation to shazam on witch needle explores a 30-foot outcrop. right up in the crotch of the thing you can see a little daylight glimmering down. i managed to squeeze through--not sure i could do it now--and james weger didn't have a problem seconding it. greg vernon, a tad huskier, got stuck. it was pathetic hearing his voice through the rock--reminded me of the time my terrier disappeared into a rabbit hole and i could hear him barking underground and wasn't sure i'd see him again. james and i yanked together. the third yank or so and--pop--greg came through.

i think the needles have a way of grabbing you like that. from greg's guidebook:

historical note: on the second ascent of yellow brick road [wizard needle], a climber got his knee irretrievably stuck in the offwidth right off the first belay. his partner rappeled to base, ran to the lookout tower and got a plastic squeeze bottle of of salad oil, which was used to lubricate and free the leader's knee. the squeeze bottle is still in the crack at the belay. [still?] it is recommended that this section be liebacked. always climb safely and avoid the need for rescues.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 25, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
Herb Laeger and Dick Leversee put up a climb on Locke Rock, north of Courtright Reservoir. I did probably the second ascent, late 1980s climbing with Rachel McCollum. There is nothing unusual about the "crux" pitch, a bit of 5.11+ bolted face on pitch 5. But what comes next is bizzarre!

From the belay on bolts, one must traverse straight out left across the "Window Washer's Traverse," a highly exciting tiptoe traverse across a very thin edge of nice granite with no pro.

After about 35 feet one arrives at a right facing arch / dihedral with a weird flared crack which will not accept gear. Undercling this to it's top where you are now still 35 feet out and back directly above the belay.

This pitch is only about 5.9, but it is wild!

Funny, I went back and did the climb again a few years later with Brent Ingrahm. Even doing it twice, I really do not recall anything about the crux pitch other than I had to latch hard, but that Window washer / cling or fling pitch I will never forget.

P.S. If you go to do this one, plan on adding a good bolt to the belay up there!
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal Ca.
Feb 25, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
Hey Tork ...great shots, great thread!
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
I think the 5.3x pitch on Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks is pretty cool, no pics though. A gently rising slab with a roof chimney rising along with you. A decent pitch length in semi-darkness (headlamp optional).

Then there's that Reed's Direct vertical tunnel-through I'll eventually get around to.

Goat Rock Overhang at Castle Rocks is pretty amazing stuff. Somebody must have pics of that one. That view when your back/but is plastered to the ceiling and you're looking straight down at the ground 80 feet below, then the big reach to the lip and cut the feet loose. Wild and cool and unusual for a route that mortals can do.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
What's My Line? at Cochise was pretty amazing. It's like a football field that is half covered by chickenheads. To give the photo scale, there is a climber in the top right of the photo.
Credit: Adamame
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
I don't have a photo, but the first pitch of Humanality in Thailand was pretty unusual. It's a 60+' tree that you climb to get to the rock. The 3rd pitch of that route is pretty crazy too (where you transfer over to the stalactite).
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Feb 25, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
more monkey than funky felt "unusual"

linking all the chimneys on the RNWFoHD

the fisher/beck pitch on the EBofLCR

another vote for on the lamb as well



EDIT
Thank God Ledge is pretty unusual too
blr

climber
socal
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
Skinny Dip in Jtree is pretty weird.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
I'm going with the sea of giant plates on the Wasteland at Cochise
Credit: Mike Diesen

and Owl Rock in Arches--reminded me of climbing stacked excericise balls
Credit: supertopo



Edit: second on Skinny Dip. (If I remember, Largo once squeezed himself through that thing.)
Skinny dip from Mnt. Proj.
Skinny dip from Mnt. Proj.
Credit: Matt Carpenter

Edit again: one night at Hueco, five of us wedged in the Devils butt hole. Then one guy cuts loose on his didgeridoo. Out-of-body, I tell ya.

matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
Never been there but heard interesting things about the devils butthole in hueco. From what I understand this is like climbing up a vertical tube that stops at some point, then you down climb. My friend Jeff told me Verm took him there and had made him pound a few beers and then do it without a headlamp. Not knowing when to stop and without light, Jeff made one last move and almost knocked himself out hitting his head at the top. Said it really stunk up there from all the stale air.
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:23pm PT

Bouldered a hand crack on the back side of the Colossus of Memnon on the west bank of the Nile outside Luxor.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 25, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
Skinny Dip in Jtree is pretty weird.


When I'd seen that Largo did the FA, I thought, no sweat, if he can fit, so can I (we're near the same size...certainly not stature...ha ha).

Not even close. He musta done that thing when he was 12...

Tunnel Vision, yeah, pretty cool. Also Black Dagger is similar. Ditto the North Ridge of Steeple in the Windys when you disappear inside the mountain, and re-appear near the summit. Crazy.



Heffalump Trap at Castle Rock in Idaho. Goes through a cool hole.

Did a route in the Devoluy (sp?) in France. Chimney up a dark slot that went deeper into the mountain for two pitches. Then, stem out bomb bay and up into the light again. Right at the end of it, I stepped up and back onto the floor in front of me, only to have it collapse and leave me hanging, barely, by my hands. Eeek.

HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
Nutjob
Goat Rock Overhang at Castle Rocks is pretty amazing stuff. Somebody must have pics of that one.

At your service.....
Getting into the cave is the first weird move
Getting into the cave is the first weird move
Credit: HighTraverse
Then you reach way out under the roof
Then you reach way out under the roof
Credit: HighTraverse
Out from under the roof
Out from under the roof
Credit: HighTraverse
Grab the jug....NOW what????
Grab the jug....NOW what????
Credit: HighTraverse
Hang in there (different climber, same day)
Hang in there (different climber, same day)
Credit: HighTraverse
After the heel hook it's easy.
After the heel hook it's easy.
Credit: HighTraverse
edejom

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
The shot and move that Hooblie was referring to:
TKingsbury collection
TKingsbury collection
Credit: edejom



The FA was done by a(nother) small guy who straight-on "power" mantled it--I did the second ascent the way that Tom is attempting it in the photo...




edit: the weird/crux part is digging in your heels like a bucking bronc for the set up move, and trying not to bruise ribs while rotating backwards in a somersault fashion:-)
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
THAT ^^^^^ IS HILARIOUS !!!!!!



I think a coolio unusual pitch I once did was on a new route on Mt Munday & we climbed up a rib of snow 50' or so that I recall.....that ended on a perfect arete of snow which went for about 1/2 a rope length or so. Perfect arete with good quality exposure on both sides.

StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
Charlotte has some wierd stuff for sure. I always thought Saucer full of Secrets on Dome Rock was cool. It looks blank at times, but every time you move up a nice little pocket seems to appear.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
Middendorf's written description of the wormholes high up on Trango has always stuck with me. So weird, so high, so unimaginable.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
found pic on the net
found pic on the net
Credit: mike m
Jaybro, have you ever climbed that pyramid that is a monument to some railroad guy that is across the interstate from Vedauwoo. I know I have a picture somewhere.
soaring_bird

Trad climber
Oregon
Feb 25, 2011 - 05:00pm PT
The rotten log pitch on Royal Arches was unusual, as was the Gendarme at Seneca Rocks, WV. Both are long gone. New Diversions and Chicken Pie are also fun and unique. The Hollow Flake pitch (Salathe) and the Thank God Ledge traverse on HD are one-of-kind as well. There are many.
gonzo chemist

climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
Feb 25, 2011 - 06:08pm PT

Without a doubt: 'Hot Dog in a Bun', at Split Rock. Joshua Tree. Stemming, chicken wings, heel-toe, gastons, foot-scissoring. But its not an offwidth, its not a chimney, and its not a dihedral.



stolen from MP.com
Credit: gonzo chemist
jogill

climber
Colorado
Feb 25, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
Probably the north face of Teewinot in the Tetons. Near the top there is an ice coated tunnel that goes through the mountain and exits on the south face. From the cold, dark north face you can look through the tunnel and see a warm and friendly Jackson Hole. Didn't actually go through the tunnel, but paused for the view. ca1956
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 26, 2011 - 09:14am PT
The first pitch of Magnolia Thunderpussy gets all the hype due to its awesome geometry,
But the second pitch "pussy" is pretty unusual, as is the third, where you are "birthed" through the hole on to the summit.
MisterE

Social climber
MEEPMEEPmeepMEEP
Feb 26, 2011 - 09:31am PT
Definitely "Mines of Moria" at Smith Rock. You need a headlamp to find gear placements and holds. From the new guide description:

5.8 R **. Nothing at Smith compares to this claustrophobic chimney. Jam and stem to a roof and say goodbye to daylight as you enter an eerie chimney behind a missing section of column. Squirm towards the light high above and follow another hidden chimney to the top of the cliff.

From the internet:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#192618
locker

Social climber
Feb 26, 2011 - 10:26am PT



A weird one for me was when Woody and I were doing some climb at JTree and a huge portion of the climb was full of the MOST birdsh!t I have EVER seen...

Climbing through it was so fuking SLIPPERY and GROSS...

We had a fuking BLAST cutting up as each navigated through it...

Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Feb 26, 2011 - 10:55am PT
Tarzan In Thailand 5.9
Tarzan In Thailand 5.9
Credit: Karl Baba

Another Thailand Climb, Tarzan, 5.9 is an approach pitch to the fantastic "Humanality" which also has a bizarre surprising pitch.

But Tarzan is basically climbing this wild tree with some tied off limbs.

Later, on Humanality, you reach this blankish face that looks 5.11 when the climb is only 10b or so. You're confused for a long time until you look way behind you and see a huge stalagtite is hanging down just close enough to stem to.

Peace

Karl
Brandon-

climber
Done With Tobacco
Feb 26, 2011 - 10:57am PT
The potato patch comes to mind...
Boz

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Feb 26, 2011 - 11:30am PT
Left Water Crack, Lembert Dome. I have never climbed anything like it, and I doubt I ever will.
Aerili

climber
Reno, NV
Feb 26, 2011 - 11:54am PT
Second pitch on Mars Attacks in Sedona--this crazy limestone band encircling a tower of sandstone

Leading the wild pitch 2 on Mars Attacks in Sedona, AZ
Leading the wild pitch 2 on Mars Attacks in Sedona, AZ
Credit: Aerili


Another cool photo of the traverse is here. (I don't know how to make photos linked from other websites appear on the page.)

Community Pillar in Red Rocks also had more tunneling pitches than Tunnel Vision did--cool stuff!


Can't forget to include Candyland at the Spires
Credit: Aerili


PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Feb 26, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
Credit: PhilG

Credit: PhilG

I think this one still stands as the most unusual for me.
50

climber
Stumptown
Feb 26, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
Here's a pitch that seemed unusual to me...
Bellygood Ledge, Squamish BC.  This is where you could make a big red ...
Bellygood Ledge, Squamish BC. This is where you could make a big red smile on the rock if you blow it.
Credit: 50
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Feb 26, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
May I trouble you for some Parkey?
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192678
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Feb 28, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
Mike, that's the Ames Monument. Climbed it many years ago in a wind storm. Heard its now off limits?
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
Feb 28, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
As mentioned earlier, Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks:
Credit: OlympicMtnBoy
Climb into the dark and you eventually reach the other side.
Credit: OlympicMtnBoy
Very cool pitch.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 1, 2011 - 12:01am PT
PHIL G FOR THE WIN!!!!

Man that is some FUNKY looking rock!
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
Mar 1, 2011 - 08:46am PT
Some of the wierdest I can recall were 1st ascents or projects at a place called Footsteps Rocks, in The Redwood National Park complex.

"Toehold" Climbs the south tower. It was put up on a windy cold day in Jan. The Crux involves grabbing tenous bushes on a slick slab, 200 feet above the ocean. Super insecure and wandering pitch with bizarre moves / holds and exposure. But first ascents of towers in CA are rare. Had to bag it.

"2 EZ 4 Da Neighborhood" Was going to be the finishing pitch to the other bizzare one on the rock, "Undertoe". To get off the first pitch, we had to do a tyrolian traverse. THe swells were so big they would go over the rope strung between the belay and land. We had to time our speed Tyrolians to be in between sets so we would not drown. Read on...
Footsteps Rocks, Redwood NP, CA. <br/>
"Toehold" summits the left hand spi...
Footsteps Rocks, Redwood NP, CA.
"Toehold" summits the left hand spire. Route is up the right skyline slab.

Credit: Disaster Master

From an old guide to the place:
North Face of South Rock
7. TOE HOLD, 5.9. This is the only route that tops out on the South Rock, and the first ascentionists were likely the first ever to summit. Put up on lead carrying a 12-pound drill, gear, bolts & other crap. Begin with route #11, “Loner”. Next rappel or down climb from the top of the Center Rock into the notch between that rock and South Rock. The slab now looms above you. Gingerly climb onto the face of South Rock (finally) and begin wandering up the path of least resistance, clipping a number of bolts along the way. Most who try this one get gripped and find themselves choosing between slick slab moves or clawing at vegetation. The top is quite rewarding. 7 bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey & Hiko Ito, January 1997.

8. TOO EASY FOR THE NEIGHBORHOOD, 5.8. Nobody does this one. It starts through the cave formed between the South & Center Rocks. Belay from a single bolt (hanger missing). Traverse right across a gigantic chock stone to reach a horizontal crack. Place large cams as you continue right and around the corner of the stack. Belay at a station where the rock takes a turn for the worse. Reverse the pitch to escape. FFA: Paul Humphrey & Jeff Hollenbeck, 1995.



The other weird one is called "undertoe" an unfinished complete traverse of the sea stack. I used Removable Bolts on the On-Site of the completed pitches. Read the description...
East Face of South Rock
This wall is the large face of the tallest sea stack, with a dramatic roof half way up it. You can see it from the trail on the way in. Stop on the trail when you are nearly parallel to the North Rock. Look for a feint climber / fisher trail cutting down to the left. Follow this past the “Whaling Wall” to the base of the South Rock. The routes are located near the lower right side of the face.

1. UNDERTOE, 5.11? (120 ft.) The first pitch of what may one day be a complete girdle of the South Rock. Begin with the first three bolts of “Swallow the Sea” then head left out to sea. Plug in numerous 1/2” Removable Bolts on the way to the ocean arête. This route is wild! On a high surf day walls of water sweep up the face of the rock across the channel, sometimes appearing higher than the route, only to crash down beside you. Trail a second rope to Tyrolian Traverse back to land or reverse the pitch. FA: Paul Humphrey. FFA: (project).

2.SWALLOW THE SEA, 5.12b. (70 ft) Scramble cautiously down to the edge of the large boulder that leans against the right flank of the East Face. (This boulder washed away in a storm later...) Clip the 1st bolt, then step left into the air. After a three bolt traverse curve upward through a groove of crazy pockets. This one ain’t over until the anchors, with several tough spots along the way. 9 bolts. FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1997.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 20, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
DM memorial bump...
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 20, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
Kudos to MFM updating the Queen of Spades thread http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/417097/Queen-of-Spades-FA-Mountain-106. Not that I would know, but the 3rd pitch seems to qualify ...
nah000

Mountain climber
canuckistan
Apr 20, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
while i didn't technically "climb" this pitch, about 100m of "spelunking" in an approximately 2.5-3.5' diameter cave/tube stands out. the tube is entered after about 8 or so short, loose and meandering pitches next to takkakaw falls [near field, bc] and when you exit you are directly above the first large water drop.

foreshortened view of the takkakaw falls route
foreshortened view of the takkakaw falls route
Credit: nah000

approaching the cave entrance
approaching the cave entrance
Credit: nah000

"spelunking"
"spelunking"
Credit: nah000



RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:06am PT
I always liked this pitch on the Gold Wall
Credit: RP3
Crackslayer

Trad climber
Eldo
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:44am PT
The womb fight in the black canyon. A traversing chossy squeeze chimney at the top of the canyon. It might be 5.7 or it might be 4th class, who knows? But it is rad!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Apr 21, 2013 - 10:55am PT
Never climbed it but I did see a photo intensive trip report of an entire chimney pitch behind the wall of the second pitch of Reeds Dierct. Preaty bizarre and clausterphobic to think about.
Ljohnson

Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
Apr 21, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Refried Brains on the Black Velvet Wall.
I think it is the 3rd pitch in this corner with huecos that had absolutely bizarre geometry.
Really wish I had pics, but it was freezing when we climbed it (the route gets very little sun.)
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Apr 21, 2013 - 11:52am PT
"Petite Capucin" in the Sierra

You jump from the top of a pillar

Petite Capucin, 5 pitches
Petite Capucin, 5 pitches
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Rick on top of the pillar, about to make the jump to the left to the main tower
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

The 5.10 crux pitch
Crux 4th pitch, 5.10
Crux 4th pitch, 5.10
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Summit
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Apr 21, 2013 - 11:59am PT
This ain't unusual in many parts of the world, but I always crack up when climbing on tufas.
Credit: RP3
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Here's a link to the Reed Pitch thread. There are more photos somewhere on the forum. Turns out its been done by more than just a few. Done the hand crack tons of times and never even thought to go into that black hole. Crazy looking climb.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=reeds%20pinnicle%20chimney&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CDYQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.supertopo.com%2Fclimbers-forum%2F1202512%2FInside-chimney-all-the-way-up-Reeds-Pinnacle&ei=BDZ0Ue-hLqvmigL3loHoDw&usg=AFQjCNGdQTfYsUr9S7GQmWIeIs_VMa9q2w&bvm=bv.45512109,d.cGE
Coolcarl

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
Cloud Tower in Red Rocks is a memorable one for me. On the 5th(?) pitch you climb a widening crack until you can squeeze yourself into it, then you downclimb on the inside ~15 feet to the belay ledge. My partner only brought the wide pro for the pitch and ended up belaying me on a carabiner chock with a body belay backup. The next pitch (pictured) was this short solo to the next belay up a squeeze then out a small cave in the back.

Urs on the heinous crux of Cloud Towner
Urs on the heinous crux of Cloud Towner
Credit: Coolcarl
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Apr 21, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Swiss Cheese at the City
BITB The Rotten Log
The Evil Tree Pitch on the WFLT
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jun 20, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Super Squeeze on the Dome in Boulder canyon. If you want to know what it feels like to be a piece of protection..... If you've put on a few lbs, then you get to go scary, outside. And oh yeah, the key hand jam is basically a fist full of bird goo. I've heard it called everything from 5.9+ to 5.11, what it is is 5.weird/desperate in my book.

Courtesy Dan Mottinger and mp.com
Courtesy Dan Mottinger and mp.com
Credit: ydpl8s
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 20, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
"Petite Capucin" in the Sierra

You jump from the top of a pillar

There's an old climb that no one does that goes to the base of the lowest Watkins Pinnacle from Tenaya Canyon. It's mostly quite easy, but one section requires a long horizontal jump, and isn't mentioned in either the green or red Roper guide. After reading the Sierra Club Bulletin account of the first ascent, however, I was relieved to find the first ascent party mention the pitch as "Air Flight Delight." I think Al Steck and Dick Long, among others, were part of the FA party. Pretty entertaining!

Then again, there's always Superfly at Suicide.

John
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