Fools in the Wide, Episode V

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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 28, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
In our last installment here http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=386125&msg=386380 the fools found and sent Recreational Struggling, V-Circus Trick or 5.awkward. Today's installment is brought to you by....Olde English 800, the breakfast of champions.

While resting a nagging wrist injury, I decided to explore the talus field above Camp 4 for more potentional wide crack boulder problems. I took a few of these to help keep me hydrated:


Dropping down the hill from Recreational Struggling, I saw a weird feature about 50' away. "That can't really be a roof crack in there, but I'll take a look anyway". And there it was...a 11' long, horizontal roof crack about 10-12" at the lip, flaring and tapering to around 4" about 3' deeper. KickAsssss™!


Yep, that's a #6 friend and an old #5 camalot in the crack for size.

The only problem with this baby was the horrendous landing. 4 foot pointy boulders littered the drop zone. So the next day I took a young strong local up to show him the find and get help cleaning and leveling the thing. 2+ hours of work resulted in a flat landing and relatively clean rock.

A couple of days passed and I was ready. It went down on the 3rd attempt. The next day, we returned with the YSL (young strong local) and a campground host for the 2nd and 3rd ascents.

Host2 trying to find a good sequence:


Host2 looking strong, but strength is no substitute for technique:


YSL halfway through the 2nd ascent:


The crux of this thing is the lip encounter where you basically have to go into a horizontal squeeze chimney position until you can switch to a mantle. The YSL botching the exit on his first attempt:


Initially YSL and I figured this would be harder than Recreation Struggling. But it was actually quite a bit easier.

Manual Labor, V-Hang-n-Squeeze or 5.10+

Jaybro, Ed, Gary, Spyork...it's waiting for you.
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Jun 28, 2007 - 06:47pm PT
Wow, looks hard! Nice work! :)

Gonna have to find crash padz!

I am up in Sonora pass for a couple weekends, but will try to get down there.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 28, 2007 - 07:36pm PT
hhhhmmmm?!
Moof

Trad climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Jun 28, 2007 - 07:42pm PT
Sit starting a crack is contrived.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
"Sit starting a crack is contrived"

Tell it to the guy who put up Bachar Cracker.
Most climbing is contrived, I can walk to the top of El Cap.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jun 28, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
hahahaha! good one....! Bad ASSSSSSSSSS momma next??? maybe in a few days.... we will need video for the nonbelievers.
Mimi

climber
Jun 28, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
Moof, please explain.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 28, 2007 - 09:41pm PT
oofa
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jun 28, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
I'm leaving now. I should be there in 3 1/2 hours.
Zander
J. Werlin

climber
Cedaredge
Jun 28, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
Elcap you are a veritable sommelier of offwidth vintages -- no doubt ol' E is the quintessential selection for such tasty climbing.

Sit down starts are contrived? Sh*t, obviously that dude has never tried my sweet sit-start variation to Sacherer Cracker.

Can't wait for Episode VI.
WBraun

climber
Jun 29, 2007 - 12:22am PT
Wow

That's a cool looking crack boulder problem.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 29, 2007 - 12:35am PT
Good job there Elcapinyoazz dood!
Keep up the good werk and thanks for the fresh dispatches.
Mimi

climber
Jun 29, 2007 - 12:52am PT
'The YSL botching the exit on his first attempt:'

hahaha, that's cold. Looks like a determined YSL.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 29, 2007 - 01:23am PT

ElcapinYOURazz...homeboy.......(Thanks for the postcard;..we miss ya.....more abuse planned for you next Josh season...)
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 29, 2007 - 01:53pm PT

Here's one for Will.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jul 14, 2007 - 05:07pm PT
A bump for Phat-ness™™™™ on the front page.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 14, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
phat bump
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 15, 2007 - 11:31am PT
Gratuitus Will in wide style



phat bump
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jul 15, 2007 - 03:16pm PT

phat bump
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