East Buttress of El Capitan TR

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kuan

Sport climber

Jun 28, 2007 - 02:27pm PT

Great TR Ed, and stunning photos!

malabarista

Trad climber

San Francisco, Ca

Jun 28, 2007 - 02:36pm PT

I have no idea which pitch you guys are talking about. Is it the pitch right before the offwidth pitch?

Matt

Trad climber

State of Mind

Jun 28, 2007 - 03:55pm PT

i believe the don reid guide shows it as the 5.9 pitch before the OW pitch, russ shos them together as p6.

Nefarius

Big Wall climber

Fresno, CA

Jun 28, 2007 - 03:58pm PT

Nice! Great pics! Thanks for posting, Ed!

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jun 28, 2007 - 04:03pm PT

Nice, Ed. Here are a couple of photos of an earlier trip up that route - look familiar?

(optional) bolt belay above the 5.5 arete

5.9 diagonal crack
(I find that pitch interesting as well)

John Vawter

Social climber

San Diego

Jun 28, 2007 - 04:11pm PT

Really nice Ed.

radical: I think it was Bachar, not Long, and it was on Moratorium, not EB, that he strayed into Zone 3 during an onsight solo. That was when Moratorium was rated ".10d," if I recall correctly.

Matt

Trad climber

State of Mind

Jun 28, 2007 - 04:18pm PT

WTF?

is that a stanford guy and a cal woman?
do your families know?

i think ya'll are in for it now...

Jaybro

Social climber

The West

Jun 28, 2007 - 04:24pm PT

Great report Ed! -though you guys are devious, leaving your friends out of the good stuff ... harumph

Tar, I climbed it once with the moratorium start (more-butt) with the late great Lynn (Wheels) Wheeler, [I miss that guy more, all the time] It was november and we didn't get to the base any too early, 9:30 am (we had each (I think) done mort before. We got to the spiderweb descent landmark, just as the sun dipped below the western hills. Made it to the car just at total blackness.

It would be cool to have more, almost, epics with wheels.

climber

East of Seattle

Jun 28, 2007 - 04:47pm PT

Nice job Ed! Looks like the perfect day.

Very inspiring.

pc

Duke-

Trad climber

SF, aka: Dirkastan

Jun 28, 2007 - 07:34pm PT

ED!!
What a wonderful TR. I love how you crank em' out!

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Jun 28, 2007 - 08:21pm PT

Equal parts incompetent and determined, a friend and I spent two days climbing the East Buttress as our first grade IV. It was April, and the bottom half of the route streamed with water every time the wind shifted El Cap Falls onto our heads. Under a clear blue sky we stayed soaking wet and cold most of the day. We aided everything harder than 5.7, the upper limit of our abilities at the time. Couldn't fake the runouts, I recall one of those was exciting.

That was a long time ago, and I haven't returned since, but Ed's pics brought back memories.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2007 - 10:15pm PT

Sorry Jaybro, you seemed to have been really busy lately... and the plan hatched quickly while I was away on travel...

Matt, getting up early was key, we had the route to ourselves all the way up to the 8th pitch when the "team young guys" caught up to us... then we didn't see them again. Maybe it was too early, but climbing is about the only reason I'll get up early (well, climbing and taking a shift on an experiment run).

Clint, that's the place! my camera was malfunctioning at that point so I didn't get any pix of Gary's proud lead.

Russ, hows about that EButt of Middle topo, that would be fun!

thanks all for your comments. You should go out and do it sometime, a great route and not as bad as I've stated, but it is long.

J. Werlin

climber

Cedaredge

Jun 28, 2007 - 10:54pm PT

Ed--

many thanks for posting up the excellent TR. Way to get it done.

Largo

Sport climber

Venice, Ca

Jun 28, 2007 - 11:14pm PT

Man, I don't have to bother going climbing anymore, I can just read these TRs. This and the one on the Arrowhead Arete are my favorites. I don't know, exactly, what makes these so memorable, but kindly keep them coming.

JL