East Buttress of El Capitan TR


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Messages 21 - 39 of total 39 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Sport climber
Jun 28, 2007 - 02:27pm PT
Great TR Ed, and stunning photos!

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 28, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
I have no idea which pitch you guys are talking about. Is it the pitch right before the offwidth pitch?

Trad climber
State of Mind
Jun 28, 2007 - 03:55pm PT
i believe the don reid guide shows it as the 5.9 pitch before the OW pitch, russ shos them together as p6.

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jun 28, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
Nice! Great pics! Thanks for posting, Ed!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 28, 2007 - 04:03pm PT
Nice, Ed. Here are a couple of photos of an earlier trip up that route - look familiar?

(optional) bolt belay above the 5.5 arete

5.9 diagonal crack
(I find that pitch interesting as well)
John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
Jun 28, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
Really nice Ed.

radical: I think it was Bachar, not Long, and it was on Moratorium, not EB, that he strayed into Zone 3 during an onsight solo. That was when Moratorium was rated ".10d," if I recall correctly.

Trad climber
State of Mind
Jun 28, 2007 - 04:18pm PT

is that a stanford guy and a cal woman?
do your families know?

i think ya'll are in for it now...

Social climber
The West
Jun 28, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
Great report Ed! -though you guys are devious, leaving your friends out of the good stuff ... harumph

Tar, I climbed it once with the moratorium start (more-butt) with the late great Lynn (Wheels) Wheeler, [I miss that guy more, all the time] It was november and we didn't get to the base any too early, 9:30 am (we had each (I think) done mort before. We got to the spiderweb descent landmark, just as the sun dipped below the western hills. Made it to the car just at total blackness.

It would be cool to have more, almost, epics with wheels.

East of Seattle
Jun 28, 2007 - 04:47pm PT
Nice job Ed! Looks like the perfect day.

Very inspiring.


Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
Jun 28, 2007 - 07:34pm PT
What a wonderful TR. I love how you crank em' out!

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 28, 2007 - 08:21pm PT
Equal parts incompetent and determined, a friend and I spent two days climbing the East Buttress as our first grade IV. It was April, and the bottom half of the route streamed with water every time the wind shifted El Cap Falls onto our heads. Under a clear blue sky we stayed soaking wet and cold most of the day. We aided everything harder than 5.7, the upper limit of our abilities at the time. Couldn't fake the runouts, I recall one of those was exciting.

That was a long time ago, and I haven't returned since, but Ed's pics brought back memories.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
Sorry Jaybro, you seemed to have been really busy lately... and the plan hatched quickly while I was away on travel...

Matt, getting up early was key, we had the route to ourselves all the way up to the 8th pitch when the "team young guys" caught up to us... then we didn't see them again. Maybe it was too early, but climbing is about the only reason I'll get up early (well, climbing and taking a shift on an experiment run).

Clint, that's the place! my camera was malfunctioning at that point so I didn't get any pix of Gary's proud lead.

Russ, hows about that EButt of Middle topo, that would be fun!

thanks all for your comments. You should go out and do it sometime, a great route and not as bad as I've stated, but it is long.
J. Werlin

Jun 28, 2007 - 10:54pm PT

many thanks for posting up the excellent TR. Way to get it done.

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jun 28, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
Man, I don't have to bother going climbing anymore, I can just read these TRs. This and the one on the Arrowhead Arete are my favorites. I don't know, exactly, what makes these so memorable, but kindly keep them coming.


Trad climber
Jun 29, 2007 - 12:21am PT
Hi Ed,
Thanks for the trip report. I would love to do this route again!

See ya,

Social climber
The other "Magic City on the Plains"
May 11, 2010 - 09:46pm PT

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 13, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
Good stuff!

Social climber
May 13, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
thanks for the bump!!!!

kick butt TR, ED

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
May 14, 2010 - 01:15am PT
Nice, looks fun!

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