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bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
I know, I know, a TR about a 5.6 climb is kinda weak but I'm gonna tell it anyway. All my usual partners were injured or busy but a German buddy of mine hadn't ever been to Tuolumne and was eager to do his first multi-pitch climb...so it was on! I figured Northwest Books on Lembert would be perfect because I had never led all of it and it's a beautiful and easy multi-pitch in a stunning setting. We drove all day Friday and decided to knock it out Friday late afternoon, leaving all Saturday to do other things. We arrive at the rock at 4:30pm and I point to the route.

For those who don't know it, it follow the obvious 'books'.

Scramble up to the base. Peter (my buddy) found the perfect Tuolumne souvenir here...a medium-sized stopper someone must have dropped. Sweet!

I decided to do the 3 pitch variation (instead of 2 long ones) and Peter decided to take a self-portrait at the first belay.

I really, really had to pee so I relieved myself in a discreet crack and Peter caught me finishing up. The 5.9 variation follows the crack straight up from this belay.

At the top of the route I got a nice pic of what a very happy German looks like after his first multi-pitch.

We opted for the longer, easier walk-off. It was probably a good idea because even on this walk-off I could hear Peter cursing in German as we came down the slabs.


It was a great time. We spent the rest of the trip kicking back and doing some top-ropes on the Western Front. The 5.10's there are really nice and give you an idea knob-climbing Tuolumne-style. I think Peter commented that those 5.9 and 5.10 knob climbs were considerably harder than 5.10's in the gym. Yep, they sure are...welcome to Tuolumne Meadows!



Edit: Sorry for the thumbnail pics...I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong. Click on 'em to view 'em until I fix it. Ahhh, that's better now.
Blinny

Trad climber
TheHolyMont
Jun 25, 2007 - 03:08pm PT
That's not weak! It's VERY COOL! TheRealBlinny and I have done that route and it's VERY FUN! Thanks for bringing back the memories!

Keep ALL that magic alive!

eKatTheFakeBlinny
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Jun 25, 2007 - 04:59pm PT
Nice photos.

Not sure if you meant you hid in a crack to pee, or peed in a crack, but it's best to pee out on a face so it evaporates, not in a crack where it takes longer to evaporate.
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Jun 25, 2007 - 06:04pm PT
Oh no, a 5.6 route, groan :) At the moment I would love to be climbing basically anything ...
Dragon with Matches

climber
Bamboo Grove
Jun 25, 2007 - 06:17pm PT
Very sweet pics of the sweetest place on the planet.

Except for the well-timed shot your buddy took of crime in process.

Dude! Don't piss there!!

Easy or not, I love the Books. Lembert's NW side is golden.

Like a shower.
pimp daddy wayne

climber
The Bat Caves
Jun 25, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
sick... i'd much rather see a cool trip report that talk politics. killer....
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jun 25, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
Met you guys on the slabs while I was lounging at Lembert in the evening on Friday. Cool beans for your bud and his first multi pitch!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 25, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
Did I see that summit photo of the German correct?

Looks like he is tied into his belay loop... Not so good.







Looks like everybody had a good time.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jun 25, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
Thanks for the TR. I love that route. Climbed it a bunch of times.
Zander
10b4me

Trad climber
Hell A
Jun 26, 2007 - 01:09am PT
thanks, that route is on a great formation with great views.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Jun 26, 2007 - 03:50am PT
Vie es de jer man tied to der belay loop? Voops! Just vundering.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jun 26, 2007 - 10:16am PT
I have a couple of (not so great) photos of my ex when we did the route in August 1993. She hadn't climbed much before (one VS in the Lake District, her first climb and she came through with flying colors, and some up in Llanberis Pass and Snowdonia in north Wales when we lived there).

The best shot is of her with arms raised (celebrating) with Cathedral Peak and the Meadows behind and below her. Sort of like that shot of Peter above. I love the view of the Meadows from the top of Lembert. Sigh, it's been so long and too long - August 1993.

I'll post the pix. The NW Books is an ideal climb for people who haven't climbed much. I did the 5.9 variation with no pro so Marie could do the regular way without having to clean any gear. It's such a fun climb.

A great climb and cool TR Bluering.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 26, 2007 - 10:32am PT
I need to be savoring the flavor of those T Meadows right now, so thanks!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2007 - 12:19pm PT
Yeah, I didn't notice the belay-loop tie in until the 2nd belay station but I figured since he wasn't leading and would only be putting body weight on it I didn't say anything. When I see him for local climbs this weekend I'll point that out to him. He does climb in gyms though, don't they insist on through both harness strap tie-ins?

Edit: James, was that you with the big dog and the hot-looking wife? I remember you guys.
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Jun 26, 2007 - 01:12pm PT
5.6, 5.11, 5.12dX... whatever? Great TR

Prod.
L

climber
A Light Glider on a Rising Thermal
Jun 26, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
Hey Bluering,

Who cares what the rating when you have photos from such a beautiful place? Really nice TR...except for one small detail...















Jeeeeez Man! Did you have to piss all over the thing by putting in that shot of you urinating??????? :-)
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
So how many have climbed the 5.9 variation and what was it like? It seems like a lot of the mellow routes such as this one might be spiced up a bit by harder variations.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
I haven't done the 5.9 variation yet but it seemed pretty straight forward jamming, and it's not that long, maybe 20 feet of crack.

...from what I remember.
scuffy b

climber
watching the flytrap
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
Crack in a corner, fingers and hands, footholds to stem onto.
Worthwhile.
Dapper Dan

climber
an 89' honda accord
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
at least he didn't poop in the crack, nice Tr blueballs
khanom

Trad climber
eestsyde
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:12pm PT
Thanks for a cool TR dude.

This is a fun route, for sure.
dirtbag

climber
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:20pm PT
Very enjoyable TR Bluering.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
The 5.9 var. is fun and mellow though short, but maybe smells like urine now?
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
Seems like I read somewhere (YOSAR site?) about an accident on the 5.9 part.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
The TR is from last year, just so y'all know. And by now the urine should be washed from the base of the 5.9 variation. I tried to pee somewhere I knew no hands would venture.

I really had to go.
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:44pm PT
One accident is described here, though it's hard to comprehend where the leader was climbing:

http://www.friendsofyosar.org/rescues/missions/7-05-05.html

Another accident on the easy 3rd pitch is described here:

http://climblog.blogspot.com/2004_07_01_archive.html
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
from the YOSAR link..."Together they splinted the obviously broken ankle with the Supertopo guide and tape. "

Nice!

It sounds like if he was really on the mid point of pitch 2, he would above the 5.9 section and sitting at the little tree before the 'awkward' offwidth section. The crack he must have been referring to was the 5.5 awkward OW and he was probably off route by going straight up from the intermidiate belay.

The other guy who fell on pitch 3, that was just kinda unfortunate, the 3rd pitch is pretty easy and straightforward after the awkward OW.

F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
medicated and flat on my back
Jun 26, 2008 - 06:57pm PT

I'll bet both of you had a great time, that's what it is all about.

Thanks for the TR, good times in the meadows
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 26, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
You did a climb and it moved you enough to talk about it. That's what climbing is all about. Grades and ratings are pretty much irrelevant unless they do something to add to the story.

Nice, thanks.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jun 26, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
I took my ex-girlfriend up that in August 1993. I led the 5.9 variation with no pro so that she could do the regular route without having to clean any pro on the variation. She had only really climbed once before on a VS in the Lake District and some top ropes in northern Wales when we lived outside of Bangor.

I have a couple of pics, that aren't great, but I'll dig them up and post them. It's a fun route.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 27, 2008 - 01:01am PT
Thanks for the TR and Images.

I wonder how some folks mental images of Bluering match up with the reality. He one of a kind, not a madeinamold kinda guy.

Peace

karl
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
Alright I'm bumping this, I'm trying to talk a new trad leader into taking his wife up this with me...

Badass!!!! (and easy too)



TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jun 16, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
Nice bump!

Somehow I never saw this, looks fun!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 16, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
Sweet, missed this Bluey! Looks like good fun with beverages!

Remember Beer BAndolier!
GDavis

Trad climber
Jun 16, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
das gud!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
Yeah, mucci, I was plowing a couple at the base, knowing we had to get her done, hence, the rest stop.

Peter was an awesome dude and partner. He's in Arizona now doing a Physics PhD. Crazy Germans!

I really need to locate my bandolier...
rhyang

climber
SJC
Jun 16, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
Good memories .. have to do it again this year !
couchmaster

climber
Jun 17, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
People should be encouraged, or even forced, to post pictures of sweet sweet granite.

Thank you for the buzz!
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
Jun 17, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
One of my favorite chill climbs.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
Looks like I may be taking more people up this on the upcoming weekend, anybody gonna be around that vicinity? Let's do a conga-line up it!

It's my textbook first multi-pitch or first trad lead....
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Jun 24, 2009 - 12:31am PT
Hey, that was MY first multi-pitch!


ummm... oh what the hell, Wow, is that German guy CUTE! Arizona, you say?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 24, 2009 - 12:34am PT
Yur Goonnnaa Diee!!! Bump
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Jul 14, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
Northwest Books rocks.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 14, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
I liked it, and my daughter liked it.
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Jul 14, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
Bluering you are right you are pretty weak. Not only because of the big dumb rack you took for NW books, but mainly because you pissed right where EVERYONE climbs.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
Scooter, if you've ever done the route, and it sounds like you have, you'd know that I'm over to the left of the 5.9 variation and way left of the standard route.

I've never seen anybody use that crack I'm peeing into, why would you?
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Jul 14, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
youre only an arms length away from the 5.9 variation. Which, by the way, I used to do nearly everyday (7 seasons) as my strechout/warm-up right after coffee. Every time it rains or sprinkles your pee-stink is going to be reacivated. Someone may even accidently spill a little water from the bottle, pee-stink reactivated. All that I am saying is, I know it was funny and novel for you, I just don't like the pee smell on ledges I like to hang out on.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Jul 14, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
Somehow I suspect that the snowmelt of two winters has washed away any trace of Mr. Bluering's, ah, urgency .. :) Didn't smell a thing when we were up there on Sunday afternoon.
kev

climber
CA
Jul 14, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
Scotter,

No one likes piss ledges but we've all had to go upon occasion and do our best to go in the best possible place given the situation. I'm quite familiar with Blueys faults but pissing on route is not one of them - I'm sure Bluey did the best he could.

Also did you notice the date this TR is from 2007???
I don't think I've heard anyone saying it's a piss ledge up there in the last two years...Moreover Lembert gets washed clean yearly - we aint talking about about camp 6 on the nose.

kev
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Jul 14, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
camp 6 had to get that way somehow.
kev

climber
CA
Jul 14, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
Um camp 6 doesn't get covered with snow or washed like lembert plus it's a wall - we are talking about the captain vs lembert WAY fricking different with respect to snow, rain, overhangingness etc...

Think about it dude, your comment is not logical and does not follow. So I don't buy what your selling and nor will most....
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jul 14, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
I can put an end to any pi$$ing match. I was up there later that summer and did the 5.9 variation, which is clearly being peed upon by the OP. It did not smell of urine.

I'm not suggesting everyone should run up there and hose that ledge down, I'm just saying Bluering's episode did not appear to cause permanent damage.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 14, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
Bluey, you can pee on any of my routes, but only if your drinking.

Having to break the seal mid pitch is bothersome, good thing you were close to the belay!
L

climber
Nowhere in particular...and I'm going back soon...
Jul 14, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
I loved this TR...even with the smell of urine attached. My only complaint was that he gave us a visual of the deadly deed. ;-)

But when you get to know Bluey, it just makes you laugh.



Thanks for bumping an awesome TR.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
Another year, another run up the Books...

Mason on pitch 1
Credit: bluering

Mason chilling on top of pitch 1
Credit: bluering

We had a bunch of non-climbers in tow and they were getting bored and wanted to leave. So after getting the radio-call from them we decided I should take over leading (Mason kinda wanted to do them all). This was the first time I didn't use the optional middle belay, and just ran it out to the top.
Credit: bluering

At the top ledge.
Credit: bluering

Summit beers!!!!
Credit: bluering


This was the first time I did the front walk-off too. It's not nearly as bad as it looks from the ground.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jun 28, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
Looks like a nice spot. Check harnesses every time with new partners!
flakyfoont

Trad climber
carsoncity nv
Jun 28, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
Bluering, saw your (white) truck parked at the EAST Lembert parking
pull out on saturday morning. Did you guys do anything over there, or did you bail to northwest books from that side? Looks like you still
had fun even with non-climbers in tow.
The party I was with ended up at West World over on Daff. As usual, I left the camera at the truck.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Jun 28, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
Sweet. 'Tis the season :)

How were the mosquitoes up there ? Some friends went and did Phobos / Deimos and reported relatively few.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 07:39pm PT
Flaky we just did NW Books and then went back to the Valley. Mason wanted to lead Grant's Crack and got it.

The mosquitos weren't bad at Tuolumne, but Swan Slab was HORRENDOUS at sunset!!!! I talked to Tom Evans at the bridge and he agreed it an unusually bad year in the Valley. Actually had a couple of beers hangin' with Tom. Not many parties on the Captain. It was hot!

I'd imagine that Tuolumne is just as bad at dusk...During the is fine though.

I did run into somebody who recognized me at the base of SPD as I was driving by and stopped. I didn't get his name though....
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
Your all ways kinda weak Bluey! Kinda washed up too.

When did I ever propose that I was a baddass climber, shitc#ck?

Take that stupid hat off never see you with out it whats up with that.

It was a freebee from Russ, as#@&%e. What hat should I be wearing? What would be acceptable to an f*#king as#@&%e like yourself?

F*#k off, you pollute my thread.....
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Jun 28, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
Rankin

climber
North Carolina
Jun 28, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
My first day climbing in Tuolumne, I drove up from Bishop, got out of the car at the Lembert parking lot and climbed Northwest Books. Great route. Great view. I was so psyced.
A friend once told me that someone rode a mountain bike down Lembert Dome. Does anyone know if this is true? Pretty ridiculous.
Nice TR bluering, and a nice follow-up as well. I like the summit photo of your German buddy. He looks so stoked, right?
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
Cant wait to meet you! Mono E Mono! Party time!

It's mano a mano, dude. And is that a threat?
Srbphoto

Trad climber
Kennewick wa
Jun 28, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
Bluey - the guy from the original TR (Peter), was he cook at a private school?
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 28, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
Very nice TR, and has me excited about being ready to resume climbing in another 10 days!!!! :>)

This is what climbing is about--having fun with a good friend!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
Bluey - the guy from the original TR (Peter), was he cook at a private school?

Nah, he's a Physics Phd student. Nice guy.
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Jun 29, 2010 - 01:41am PT
Yea, a fun first Tuolumne route for sure.

Hey if anyone runs up that thing and finds a (red #4)? bd nut on the first pitch it's mine. Bluey was unable to recover it.

Incidentally, the moves on Grant's crack are surprisingly 5.9ish and I'm happy to say that was my first 5.9 lead. The easiest 5.9 in the valley...woo-hah?
Nala

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
Jun 29, 2010 - 02:10am PT
Good times bluey!

Non-climbers included 3 kids all under the age of 10...tried to hold them off for as long as I could. They kept calling for you on the 2way radio. We still have one of the radios by the way.

Good times with the fam too! I'm sure Mason will post up pics soon. :) 'til next time :)
T H

climber
from the Leastside
Jun 29, 2010 - 02:37am PT
That descent (pic) . . I climbed it in some crepe-sole wallabees once - the rubber stuck like glue on the glacier polish .
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