Regional climbing rivalries: examples?

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Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Jul 9, 2007 - 11:44pm PT
"...When we sent our boys out (Bachar, Long, McClenahan), they devoured local testpieces all over the country whilst living in a Toyota Corolla and eating nothing more than rice cakes and local egos. Them boys could pull on any terrain, at a top notch standard, and had zero need for a potato in their pants or any other shenanigans..."

Yeah, I remember Gill telling me about how "our boys" blew away the CO bouldering standards on their Pumping Sandstone tour. Hahahahahahaha.

Curt
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 9, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
Knock it off Curt.
I want my day in the sun, even if it exists only as a jibe, as a sham association concocted by Russ Walling.
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Jul 10, 2007 - 12:13am PT
Never hopped a train, but I laid between the tracks and let a train going about 50 miles an hour drive over me. If you think they are loud riding on top, just try the underside. My ears were ringing for days. It was a very terrifying experience, not one I would repeat. I didn't think up this stunt, I read about it in "The Painted Bird", by the late Jerzy Kosinski. It is cast as a work of fiction, but many believe it to be semi-autobiographical. I highly recommend it.

Michael
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jul 10, 2007 - 02:34am PT
i jumped freights pretty regular under the watchful eye of one howard "twilly" cannon, surely one of the most amazing humans to ever inhabit the planet.

one of the highlights of my time on earth was catching a burlington-northern freight from seattle to leavenworth. as the train slowed to pass through l-town, we tossed off our packs and jumped out. it was me, twilly, kim (my girl of the time), and steve mascioli, who died a few years back, as some of you know, on moonflower buttress.

on impact, we all did a couple of hard rolls and were on our feet. a true bindlestiff at that time in my life, i had my shoes, a rack, and a 6' X 6' hunk of pile fabric to sleep in, a relic rescued from the cutting-room floor of off white's 1981 rock-and-roll pile jacket sweatshop.

it was a full moon night, around 2 a.m., and we were in the middle of an apple orchard that was in full spring bloom. it was so bright out there you could have read a newspaper. the instant karma transition of going from the ear-splitting and bone-shaking cage of the boxcar to the absolute stillness of the sea of apple blossoms wet with dew on a late spring night was one of the defining experiences of my life. utterly sublime, utterly surreal, the sort of experience on has to lean down to the earth and give thanks for. i can still remember it like it was yesterday. how can the memory be so vivid? it was 26 years ago.

god, we age.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Jul 10, 2007 - 02:40am PT
Truly beautiful memory, Bob.

-NostalgicJello
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 10, 2007 - 10:21am PT
Yes, real nice Bob.
Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?

Trad climber
Pollack Pines
Dec 17, 2007 - 02:57pm PT
This is a very interesting thread.

Have there been any updates that folks should be aware of?

Roy?


xoxoxox,

Jennifer
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 17, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
You talkin' teh me girl?
I dunno nuttin'...
Roy



OK, um...
Rivalries? Nah, we're all pretty chill anymore...

'Cept maybe a portion of the SD community vs an open source stance on info for Canyon Tajo. That's been a mix of reasonable protectionism and xenophobic lust for some time now.

Then there's DR F and the whole Figures on a Landscape FA closet/skeleton Vogel deal, pretty well settled, except for the mythical notion held by many true believers of an early boltless ascent by Cox & Yablonski.

And Dean Potter vs The World, but that's moldy news.

And she who shall not be named vs most of Supertopo, but that ain't climbing, yet it is good rivalry on the out-skirts of town.

Oh, and The Doctor vs some dinks on Mountain Proj.

And me & Russ vs Mike Waugh on the Tonic Boom Box Licker Battle Chassis rap bolting dust up, although old, I am proud to say Waugh still wants to kick my asss.

But more of late, GGnome vs L was some purdy hot shite sparring, if you like watching a 90lb chick rip the heart out of a 90lb slab climber.

I'm pretty sure some of those Colorado Springs boys still don't want nothin' to do with us Boulder types squattin' down on their turf.

And the Slopers (west side Rockies fellas) ain't passin' the olive branch to us Dopers (front range Freaks), least not since our Young Guns been rippin' it up in The Black for the last 10-15.

Then there's me slaggin' E for hangdoggin, while I tossed a can into the trash, tellin' Cilley to go dig it out fer a nickel, followed by Dick's infamous retort: "Some day Roy, you'll be down and when ya are I'll be there to kick dirt down your throat". Haha. I still busted 'im down on numerous boulder problems after that, so I'm quite sure I still gotta watch my back.

So yeah, from where I sit, Rivalry is pretty slack.
Although if you look at histr'y, Hot Henry vs The World, Kim Carrigan vs The Valley Boys, & Christian "Verve" Griffith vs the Trad cognescenti (Wilford et al) still sends a few ripples out now and again...


Last but not least, there's me vs the keyboard, ...dang that hurt.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 17, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
Bump.
I don't usually "do" conflict,
But since it's Ricky's thread & stuff...
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Dec 17, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
Eldoprancers™™™ Vs. the World!!!!!!!!111
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 17, 2007 - 11:35pm PT
Can greenies jam, now?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Dec 17, 2007 - 11:43pm PT
Rivalries? Nah, we're all pretty chill anymore...
'Cept maybe ....


Now that was fun reading.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 30, 2008 - 04:48pm PT
Can we get some more regional climbing rivalries?
C'mon kids, these are fun, in a grade school sorta way.
I got popcorn goin'...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:20am PT
Within the state of New Hampshire,was there any rivalry from area to area for the most difficult or scary routes when they went up?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
You gotta figure Surrete's Liquid Sky tactics raised some eyebrows, that would likely be intra-regional as you suggested.
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
Front Range candyasses vs. Western Slope inbreeds
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Jan 31, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
Yeah, back in the mid to late 70's us Gunnysuckers used to get po'd when every copy of Mountain or Climbing had new routes in the Black put up by the Front Rangers. We used to joke that Bryan B., Earl W., Leonard C. (to name a few) climbed with stamped envelopes in their back pockets. After the communities and climbers started to mix, and we both found out what a bunch of crazy, loaded, kindred spirits we were, the animosity decreased. - We both realized that we'd been walking a mile in each other's shoes for years!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 1, 2008 - 10:06pm PT
The rivalry thing is mostly good old fashion ripping and only works to best humorous outcome if you have some local advantage. Those of us that ate bean burritos as a staple developed some simple but effective techniques for keeping the whole affair from deconstructing despite a generous payload. As a matter of pride and entrapment, we would dispense with plates at parties and wait to see how many visiting dignitaries would try to follow suit! The humor would come roaring in as the burrito turned catastrophic! Despite the victim's most earnest efforts at remaining nonchalant, they would inevitably be reduced to a slurping fool!
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2008 - 11:16am PT
Steve,
I recently had a visit from my friend John Jurashek, aka JJ. He told me fascinating tales of the climbing scene in Arizona back in the 70’s’ involving you, and others. Heard stories of hard climbing, outrageous parties, and the ultimate honor, the crowning of the “Bean King.” This important history is long overdue for a separate thread, and you are the man to start it, Steve.
Rick
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 2, 2008 - 12:15pm PT
Getting "Beaned"...
Now that was enough to keep me away from you hippie'zonans...
I draw my line in the sand!!!
Hooo-Haaaw.
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