Climbing at Cathedral & Whitehorse +Flying Kites at Cape Cod

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Messages 61 - 75 of total 75 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 22, 2007 - 11:26am PT
Tar, does your guidebook have that picture of Jimmy climbing Liquid Sky above the Space Platform (or maybe Jim has some real photos). That was historic.
Brian Boyd

Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 22, 2007 - 11:52am PT
The Zonkers photo was taken by Albert Dow. Here is a shot of Albert on Layton's Ascent in the late 70s:



Albert died in an avalanche on Mt. Washington in '82 while on search and rescue. He was a great guy, and it's hard to believe he's been gone for 25 years.

The photo of Jimmy Dunn is noteworthy because he had some interesting footwear choices during those years: You notice that he's missing a left shoe on Zonkers. He did the FA of a route called Dresden (5.10) barefoot, but the trend never caught on.

I was watching Dunn work on the FA of White Eye (5.12). There was a key move that had a great hold just out of reach. He came down off the route, drove back into town, and returned with a pair of mountain boots. He put the mountain boot over one of his EBs, and proceeded to dance up thin moves wearing this massive boot. With the extra reach, Jummy made it to the jug. He then hung by one hand, unlaced the boot, and kicked it off into space. He worked through this sequence several times, with people chanting "eject, eject" as the boot launched. This was in '78, I think. Mark Hudon and Max Jones made the second free ascent, notably bootless.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2007 - 12:12pm PT
RIP Albert.

Great stories Brian,
Ed does describe some of that stuff in his guide.






Thanks again to Chiloe for hosting the climbing activities on this trip!



...Now let's kick in some more good New Hampshire granite stories and pics kids and pump up the Taco Stand!
Brian Boyd

Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 22, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
Cover of the first Webster guide. Frank Vernooy on the Bridge of Khazad-Dum at Cathedral Ledge:



Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 22, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
A brief story about Albert Dow:

http://pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/albert_dow.htm
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2007 - 01:52pm PT
Nice little vignette there Larry.
It taps the essence and feeling of pulling through to the top.
Mike.

climber
Jun 22, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
Thanks for the sweet pix (and tellin'), Roy and all.
Jennie

Trad climber
Salt Lake
Jun 22, 2007 - 05:48pm PT
Great report!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jun 22, 2007 - 11:07pm PT
first rate stuff - really neat climbing and cool history stuff - thanks Roy!
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Jun 24, 2007 - 09:11am PT
Tarbuster, Nice TR and congrats to Lisa. My son and I drove Jonathan Wyatt from Boston to North Conway on Wed. before the race, had lunch with him and Anna Pichrtova, then went to Cathedral and got in a couple of climbs. My son finished 36th overall on Sat. He gained entry in the race by giving Jon a ride up.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 24, 2007 - 10:14am PT
Another historical note. In the 1982 edition of his guidebook, Ed Webster writes about Children's Crusade, "Of all the recently climbed routes in New Hampshire, this is probably the finest and most elegant." Al Comeau & Mike Heinz first climbed the initial leads in 1978. I don't have a photo of them but here's another North Conway legend, Jimmy Dunn, leading Children's Crusade in 1980. The bolts got fatter but otherwise the route Tar and I climbed last Saturday seems to have changed hardly at all.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2007 - 10:46am PT
'Glad everyone is enjoying the thread!

Divad: Lisa and I stayed with Marianne in Madison, where J Wyatt (congrats on your win Mr Wyatt!) & Anna P collected for an afterparty. Marianne was an excellent host, is a big enthusiast of the hill climb and loves to support the elite runners by offering her house. Anna is such a little doll, sweet, friendly and a real champion. Sounds like you and your son had a similar few days to ours; you've got some nice crags and some real steep hills...

Jimmy Dunn is a real amazing character and you have a nice athletic shot of him there Chiloe.

divad

Trad climber
wmass
Jun 24, 2007 - 01:30pm PT
Tarbuster, Yeah, Anna is a real sweety. On the drive up I asked Jon where he was coming from last and he said he flew in from Italy, where he lives in the Dolomites with his girlfriend, an Italian Olympic x-c skier. I told him I'd been there and it was my favorite place. He invited me to stay at his house the next time I'm there. Zowie!
Jimmy S

climber
Granite State
Jun 25, 2007 - 10:27am PT
Steve, Bob, Roy,
Thanks for the welcome to the "Stand". I am living back in North Conway once again.
To bad I missed you Roy. I saw this guy out on the cliff with a cowboy hat, but it was from far away and I didn't recognize you.
Carry on,
Jim
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Jun 25, 2007 - 10:33am PT
Howdy Jimmy and Welcome! Are you still working as a cameraman?

Peter
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