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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 15, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
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If any of you are wondering if it's worth going and doing, it is, it is! Awesome route, can't wait to go back and lead it. Highly recomended for the setting as well as the quality of the climbing.
No pictures, but if you don't know where this is, it's on hwy 120 east, between Lee Vining and Benton.
It's starting to get a little hot out there, fall is a great time for this one. The primitive camping, not at the crag but in the area, is very remote and beautiful, didn't see another soul after we left the crag.
Another great trip close to home with the incredible Bob Finn!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jun 16, 2007 - 12:07am PT
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I did it a few years back at the end of July. Was in the shade for the most part when we did it but the 2nd & 3rd pitches were windy as hell. We were the only ones back there and it was a beautiful Saturday.
Great route though. But that was before the bolts were chopped. I'd imagine leading it now is a much more heady experience.
The primitive camping up the 120 from there was great though. Total middle of nowhere feel. Didn't see anyone else there except for a back country ranger out patrolling.
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jstan
climber
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Jun 16, 2007 - 10:46am PT
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I knew a Bob Finn once. Big guy but a total degenerate. He was doing physics.
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Dickly
Trad climber
Utah
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Jun 16, 2007 - 11:38am PT
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love the Benton crags too. boy scout camp sweet too. naked climber chicks at the hot pots, priceless.
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sister mercy
Trad climber
Eastside
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Jun 16, 2007 - 03:45pm PT
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Yes, but what about the bolts?? We had the same experience last year, being turned back after a long drive to find the "funny" note at the buttom of the climb and would like to come back climbing instead of grinning...
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kev
climber
CA
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Jun 16, 2007 - 06:34pm PT
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I talked to a local a few weeks ago at the gorge about the bolts
on Hair Raiser and as I understand the additional bolts are still gone. The local said he heard that half of the FA party said it was ok to add the bolts that were added but the other half did not
agree. I assume the other half chopped them.....Perhaps they could have compromised and only chopped half of them...snicker....
Pretty big balls to lead pitch one with only 3 bolts but wtf.
kev
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andanother
climber
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Jun 16, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
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..................Supertopoans remain silent, awaiting the final word...........
.......poised.......waiting for the first hand report from hossjulia......
Purists, sport climbers, traditionalists, weekend-warriors, old schoolers, bolt police, new schoolers, pansies, slab monsters, gym climbers, and everything in between.
They all know this thread is going to exceed 200 posts, and they are all ready to add their two cents. Some have probably already typed it up...............
...armed. Ready to flame. Ready to talk sh#t, hurl insults, and beat the dead horse even though he is now just a pile of bones.....
.....we just need to know if the retro's have been re-retro'd.....
The suspense is killing me!
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2007 - 11:03pm PT
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all I know is there are bolts all over the f*ing place, and it's still a heady looking lead!
Here's the thing folks, bolt chopping is stupid!!! It's ugly and takes somehting away from the climb. And yes, you can tell there was a bolt chopping party going on here!
There is something like 6 bolts for each pitch, give or take one or two, I did not lead any of it. So, it's still on my tick list.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jun 17, 2007 - 12:21am PT
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Here's the thing folks, bolt chopping is stupid!!! It's ugly and takes somehting away from the climb.
Could read:
Here's the thing folks, adding bolts is stupid!!! It's ugly and takes something away from the climb.
Wasn't there a giant thread on this a while back? Slung knob? Not too bad? Come in from the side? German groundfall?
C'mon you guys, whip out some "sac-a-tola East of Java" on that thing. It's only 5.9..... Train for it.....
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Dickly
Trad climber
Utah
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Jun 18, 2007 - 06:20pm PT
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forget the bolts, and remember the naked chicks(dudes if you are into that) at the pots. dont leave you wallet on your seat while soaking either.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Jun 18, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
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i hear what you're saying, dicky
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jun 18, 2007 - 08:11pm PT
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If there be six bolts per pitch (that was not a very certain answer imo), then bolts have been added back. Post chop or restoration (depending on how you view these things), there were 3 bolts on the 1st pitch, 4 bolts on the 2nd pitch and 4(? my mind is fuzzy on this) bolts on the last pitch.
[Note: that was still more bolts on the 2nd and 3rd pitches than on the FA]
The talk about removing the additional bolts causing damage is pure BS. I saw no evidence of damage from the removals. However, repeated addition of bolts (and their inevitable removal) will cause damage.
It is a fine route no matter. But, I wish people would leave established climbs alone and leave their bolt kits at home.
Yes, the naked females of the species sound more enticing.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
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We did HRB a year ago this July. Like Sketchy says I believe there were the 3 bolts first pitch, and 4 each on the 2nd and 3rd. Question is on P2 and P3, are some of those 4 bolts part of this "secondary bolting"? One of our party seemed to think they were - he had done it before in its original state and didn't remember there being so many on the upper pitches.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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“Hair-raiser Buttress,” Granite Basin. Vern Clevenger and I climbed this route in June. The route ascends the only prominent, pitted buttress in the middle of the Granite Basin group. We started off some boulders slightly uphill from the low point and center of the buttress and then took the central line for three pitches to the top, always following the area most solution-pocked. The final pitch is the crux, some F9 and considerable F8, all protected by bolts. NCSS II, F9.
THOMAS HIGGINS [url="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1976/us1976_429-461.pdf"]AAJ 1976 p449[/url]
[see picture of the FA on p450]
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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-and?
(?????????1111)
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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You are on a roll tonight Ed, picking some good topics (for me at least)
Hair Raiser is am amazing climb. I did it in 2006 and the bolts had been chopped by then. As I recall the first pitch had 3 bolts, the second had 4 and I can't remember the 3rd. If you guys don't mind, here are some pictures...
The route...
Howdy down there...
Sweet hanger on the second pitch, maybe FA? A replacement was right next to it...
Pretty colors...
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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If I remember right, the third pitch was still run out with the new bolts. I'm not sure the new bolters ever touched the third pitch. It was striaght up 20 feet of climbing through F9 climbing to reach the first bolt, then some thin crack with nuts to the second bolt. I think there were only two bolts on the pitch.
With the new bolts, the climb still ran out the easy stretches on the first two pitches. I wasn't sure where the original bolts were.
Anyway, was it Vern who said go ahead and bolt it, while Tom Higgins said don't?
Dexter canyon is good for those who are wondering. It's not no softy short east side crag either, those cracks are proud but a hair chossy.
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NotIt
Trad climber
SF, CA
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May 18, 2011 - 11:06am PT
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Anyone know the current bolt status of Hair Raiser Buttress?
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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May 18, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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Fun route! We were out there in Sept '08 and all the bolts were fine. Take care getting to the 1st bolt on P1.
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