Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2007 - 11:12am PT
|
bump for a killer TR.
|
|
mack
Trad climber
vermont
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
|
Great TR!! I want to go back there ...soon.
Mack
|
|
kuan
Sport climber
CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2007 - 06:11pm PT
|
Hey Blinny,
That mug belongs to Corey - not sure if he went on that river trip or not...
|
|
MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
|
|
|
Jun 18, 2007 - 11:28am PT
|
Kuan,
Great TR. Thanks for the effort. Reminds us all that THIS is how inspiring Supertaco can be.
My three year old was captivated by the photos and wants to go to TM "tomorrow".
Martin
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Jun 18, 2007 - 01:49pm PT
|
What a great TR you put together -- I don't see how anyone could read through without smiling along with you! I sure did.
Me, I thought Crescent Arch was a great route, felt so high when I pulled over the final roof. And, could that have been Orange Plasma on Cottage Dome?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2007 - 03:33am PT
|
worth the wait. love a good TR. thx
great photos Corey.
|
|
Bovine
Trad climber
USA
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2007 - 11:06am PT
|
AWESOME! Thanks for taking the time so that I could kill some time here at work! Great pics, happy faces, sunnny days in Tuolumne, Nothing better than that!
|
|
handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2007 - 12:01pm PT
|
way cool!
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Jun 20, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
|
This is such a fine, happy TR that it deserves another turn on the front page. Even if somebody posts a lame picture from Medlicott to bump it.
|
|
labrat
Trad climber
Nevada
|
|
|
Jun 20, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
|
Nice report Kuan.
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2007 - 12:10am PT
|
So the route I did last Saturday that I mentioned I was dreading up thread was Crescent Arch (I just didn't want to post it til I actually did it). I LOVED it. The way everyone talks about it I was pretty nervous for it. It has some heads up sections but it was awesome, it was unlike any other Tuolumne climb I've ever done.
I don't see where all the hand jamming was though. I even taped and barely got scuff on the white stuff. The finger undercling traverse at the top was pretty cool, and I normally hate traversing.
It seems like everyone either loves that route or hates it.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2007 - 12:21am PT
|
If all trips were as fun as that one looked, we'd all be trippin'.
Thank you very much!
I had a a great time on crescent arch, I can still remember events, laughs and dialog from the first time, back in fall '79. Maybe it was the event, the day, the friends I shared it with?
¿I guess it could seem anticlimactic if you had to wait too long to get on it, or felt pressuered to climb at the wrong pace??
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2007 - 07:04am PT
|
Crescent Arch = totally great route, IMHO. Climbed it pre-sticky shoes or cams, the thin lieback pitch felt insecure. The final step-across moves were wet, so I hesitated there a few minutes before having one of those break-through high moments that climbing's all about.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Bates Creek
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2007 - 11:16am PT
|
Crescent Arch was my first Tuolumne climb in 1974.
I haven't climbed it a lot, but every time up it I
renew my opinion that it's one of the best I've done.
Thanks, Bob!!
|
|
426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2007 - 11:25am PT
|
no hate, CA's just overhyped IMO-the anchors are botched for starters...there are like several climbs on Daff alone that are "better routes"...even 'RCA' (just right of CA)...ever done it? Great stances, clean as a whistle...scary enough, 2.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Bates Creek
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2007 - 11:45am PT
|
no hate...just the worst climb in the Meadows, that's all.
If you want to change your opinion, just go climb the
Northwest Buttress of Lembert.
Botched anchors?
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2007 - 11:46am PT
|
Great TR. What a nice contribution to us at Supertopo. Thank you.
My Favorite:
"I had just ordered a rack (finally!!!) and Corey felt that this would be a gentle introduction to crack climbing. I soon realized that notion is akin to a “gentle introduction to prison sex”. Corey rope-gunned La Cosita Left, Little John Left, and Sacherer Cracker, and then proceeded to belay/pull me up. "
Taking somebody up Sacherer Cracker is more like a gentle introduction to "Maximum Security prison sex" Could qualify as spousal abuse if you take a non-crack climbing woman up there, whether she's your spouse or not.
Crescent Arch. Way more face climbing possibilities and subtle ways of climbing that thing than folks realize. A partner wanted to lead the whole thing once and I made it my challenge to not touch the crack. I got whole pitches with no crack and a few with minimal crack. That climb is about creativity in hybrid moment.
peace
Karl
|
|
426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2007 - 11:46am PT
|
Yeah, did you happen to see the chopped bolt at the "best" stance (middle corner pitch)? That's where I came back down to belay after inspecting the junk pins higher...how about "worst route on Daff" since everyone seems so offended...(!)
|
|
kuan
Sport climber
CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
|
Yo, I'm not saying that Crescent Arch is a bad climb - it's just not a "pretty" climb for me. Since I am not a crack climber, it was really grunty and awkward. It was three pitches of "left-jam, left-jam, butt-scum" and one pitch of "undercling-undercling-traverse-traverse", and the firt two belay stations were a little manky. That's just my opinion.
Maybe if I was a better climber I would have liked Crescent Arch more. Climbs that really do it for me involve aesthetic and delicate movements - kind of like ballet dancing up a rock. Since I come from a gym, I am very used to positive holds and more comfortable on face'y climbs. I find that on these types of climbs, I can move with more expression and freedom.
That's all, y'all.
It's 11:00 and I'm going to the gym to pull on some plastic!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2007 - 11:59am PT
|
Awesome TR.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!