Lurking Fear TR


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Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 15, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
Just a few pics of a trip up Lurking Fear last fall(October 2006).
Juli leading the 2nd pitch.
Juli leading the 13th pitch.
Juli on Thanksgiving Ledge 1 hour after accidentally amputating the tip of her pinky finger. How did this happen you might be wondering? Just be careful of your Protraxion when hauling, and keep your sh#t together.
Nice sunset picture from the top of El Cap.
After spending the night on top, I finally got Juli to the emergency room in Modesto and had her finger surgically repaired 28 hours after it happened. She is one strong person. Turns out she almost lost the next finger in line and ended up with a deep laceration to the bone, we had hardly noticed it when taping her up. I will never forget the vision of her finger tip hanging out of the protraxion. Brutal.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jun 15, 2007 - 03:03pm PT
WOW! Way to suck it up!

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jun 15, 2007 - 03:05pm PT
Man, between this one and the girl who had her teeth ripped, some of you dudes are climbing with some flippin' HARD wimmen!!! Nice job!

Social climber
St. Looney
Jun 15, 2007 - 03:09pm PT
Holy moly! When you wrote that she amputated the tip of her pinky, I envisioned skin removal. NOT THE END OF HER FINGER! Yikes.

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2007 - 03:14pm PT
Cam was engaged, it was what pulled her finger tip off. When the bags are stuck don't try to pull on the load side, if they come free and you are space hauling on the other end, watch out. It was a simple mistake with a painful lesson for her and a humiliating and regretful experience for me.

Jun 15, 2007 - 03:22pm PT
Wow! Just wow. Amazed.

Anybody else remembering Fly'n Bryan (IIRC, it was somebody with Ammon) and the beak to the hand?

San Diego
Jun 15, 2007 - 04:32pm PT
i like to pick my nose with my pinky.

hardcore stuff! good show juli!

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jun 15, 2007 - 04:33pm PT
Holy day-um. I ever loose part of a finger in a piece of climbing gear, I hope I've got the good graces to tape it up, show it off, and smile for a picture. I hope it's all working OK now. I too thought you meant that she cut a chunk of flesh off...not bone.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 15, 2007 - 04:40pm PT
I am humbled.

wow! is right Juli.


Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
Thanks everyone, best day at work ever.

Yeah, once we got past the Trauma/Drama we realized that what radical said "F*#k Pinkies!! They are useless anyway...
What the hell do we need those thing for??" was pretty true. Amputated right above the distal knuckle, she can still flex the knuckle, and she was climbing again before her stitches were out.

The rock is sweet! After all the comments we heard about Lurking Fear not even being an El Cap route, I felt like I got the full value experience.

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jun 15, 2007 - 04:49pm PT
"After all the comments we heard about Lurking Fear not even being an El Cap route"

I've never heard that!

Congrats on your summit too. It's hard to get past the pinky thing, but I'm sure the rest of your trip was quite and experience too.

Social climber
Jun 15, 2007 - 05:27pm PT

Way to suck it up!!

Good job guys!

East Coast US
Jun 15, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
Holy crap! I almost puked when I saw that. You guys are a lot tougher than me.

Nice job pushing on and finishing the route... and not calling for Werner & co.

Trad climber
Jun 15, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
seriously....way to see it through. proud!
john hansen

Jun 15, 2007 - 10:53pm PT
Maybe she got better at climbing after that .It worked for Tommy Caldwell...

San Fran Cisco
Jun 16, 2007 - 12:27am PT
yeah, not hauling around all that extra fingertip weight and all...

Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2007 - 12:28am PT
Juliieeeeeee! I don't know you, but I feel your pain! I hacked the tip off my right pinky on uh... oh this is soooo embarassing.... um... the approach.... in spires gully. Wiht self-inflicted rockfall.

And no, we didn't do the climb. I went straight to the e-room and begged for morhpine.

You are a stud!

Only reason to really miss that fingertip: Backspace

nick d

Trad climber
Jun 16, 2007 - 01:30am PT
Welcome to the land of nine fingered people! As someone else alluded, one of the prime uses of your new "feature" is jamming the stump in your nose. It can make some people very uncomfortable. Never know how "handy" that can be! Sorry for your loss, but you are a total stud for carrying onward and upward.

ps...I did all the hardest climbs I have done post amputation. Get used to tinc'ing and taping it and you can use the tape job to great advantage.


Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2007 - 03:33pm PT
Bump, because I am bored.

Can you imagine calling for a rescue for a little accidental pinky amputation? I figured we would be ridiculed forever, besides Juli wouldn't have anything to do with a rescue.

Wonder what the worst reason for a rescue has been?

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2007 - 05:44pm PT
"he was to tired to walk back up"

I guess that is about what I was expecting. It seems to happen around here once a season or so. Someone called for a rescue a couple summers ago due to being stuck in the scrub oak, just didn't want to bushwack anymore.

Have fun up there Riley.
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