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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jun 16, 2007 - 12:55pm PT
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The Kids are awe-right.
Oli, I hear you were quite the 'man'tler. Who's repeated your "one arm press" problem in Eldo....anyone on this site?
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jun 16, 2007 - 02:54pm PT
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I don't know which one you're talking about. I really didn't have a specific, notable one-arm mantel in Eldorado. Only on Flagstaff.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jun 17, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
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My mistake, I've only climbed around boulder a few times, and no one I knew was into a "mantling" tour...
Anyone? Fess up if you've done Oli's "one arm mantle problem" up Flag way...
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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It rather moved me when John Sherman, one of our country's best and most prolific boulderers, wrote in his book Stone Crusade, about my route, "His one-arm mantel... has embarrassed generations of boulderers who felt they climbed beyond 1960s standards." I now walk along the base of those climbs and point to them: "There's one I used to do, and... here's one I used to do..."
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2007 - 08:07pm PT
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Now I do remember a one-arm kind of mantel on the north side of the Milton Boulder, in Eldorado, where I came up off the river side, via some boulders I could walk out onto, and then up the steep wall onto that sloping slab... It wasn't a pure one-arm mantel, as I could use my left hand on whatever I could find... but it was kind of slippery, and you might fall into the water.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jun 18, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
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I tied to do a kind of dip out of a chair this morning but fell back limp into the chair, a helpless blob of flesh and bone. I wonder now if I will ever win the Piolet...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 18, 2007 - 04:45pm PT
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Take a really clean mantel, let's say the fireplace, if you have to ask which one, never mind... , you ain't gettin' up it with a 'beached whale,' cheatin' with a heel hook only has limited value as well.
Technique (which can demand strength) rules.
Although, there IS value to knowing what you can get away with, especially, if you settle for ticking grades.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
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I'm kinda not seeing the "whale flop" people were talking about. It doesn't appear that the guy's body, let alone his belly touch the rock, at all. And, actually, the only thing I really see different about the first video top-out and the video Russ posted is the angle of their bodies. Russ' video also shows someone pressing with a foot and an arm, then reaching up for a hold higher up. Not sure I'd call either of those a mantel, nor that I would say they aren't. They look pretty similar regardless.
Although easy, when I think of a mantel, I think of a cool V0 problem on the Wine Boulder, just past Dominator. There's a bit of a flake that you match on, pull up and start pressing out the mantel as you match your foot to your hands on the flake/rail. Don't remember the name - it sits facing Blue Suede Shoes, which is an awesome slab problem!
OR, the firepit in the mountain room!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jun 19, 2007 - 07:24pm PT
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I think my manteling started on the Northwest Corner of the Bastille in 1965-6. There is that move on the crux pitch, where you reach way up right for a finger ledge and then have to pull up and mantel on it. I took Kamps up that route once, and he fired it beautifully.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 02:42am PT
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bump...
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jbar
Mountain climber
Inside my head
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:24am PT
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We have a great local scrable up a 100' boulder I like to take people who are interested in learning to climb. The books call it a 5.something but it's really just 4th. One section is a flat block with an great ledge about 6.5' up. the wall is slightly overhanging and completely smooth. You don't have any choice but to grab, jump as high as you can and mantel out. People get the arm extension but then want to throw their knee on top.
Bump for Eldo!
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Nov 13, 2008 - 10:57am PT
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Nice bump. Maybe the advent of climbing pads allowed for falls from heel-hooks without injury, whereas before pads the safer fall was from the pure mantel position?
Just a thought...
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salad
climber
Escondido
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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Bump for mantel photos!!!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 11, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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I don't think that video is much of a testimony to the death of mantels---he was just using good technique, and his top-out was hardly in the beached whale category.
I have seen some highly accomplished boulderers who either failed or performed ghastly fish flops on rounded top-outs that masters like Ament would have totally styled.
Mantling required the development of muscles which, nowadays, play little role in cutting-edge overhanging climbing. The sub-specialty of hard mantles has faded, if not vanished, from the bouldering scene. This is one area, perhaps the only area, in which the old masters were better than the modern generation.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 11, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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epperson on the stem gem mantlerick allenby on unnamed mantle, joshua treerick allenby on the heinous Curtis mantle at woodson V5/6yours truly on the classic suzys mantle at santeetodd tremble showing perfect technique at Black Mountain
Man we loved to mantle BITD. Ya gotta be sick, and that we were.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 26, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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I'm considered the "younger generation" of cimbers, and I search mantels out quite a bit (boulder problems). Maybe it's because they are obscure, and puzzling to sort out at first, but they're also a good way to warm up and get the blood flowing. I really like how they seem so ridiculously weird or difficult at first, and they happen so fast when you do finally get them, it's such a fun moment.
Just a thought, since mantels are mainly dependent upon arm, shoulder, back, and core muscles... Could they have been more prominent BITD because of the shoes they wore? Many of these sorts of climbs seem as if they are not dependent upon sticky rubber (though it always helps). They're just a matter of hoisting yourself up in just the right way, with the perfect combination of power and balance. So maybe it was just a different "eye" for a possible climb, another possibility based upon the nuances of that era... Just a thought!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 26, 2012 - 01:11am PT
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That V14 looks dang hard and tricky
and pity the fool to have the peanut gallery yell lame stuff like "Concentrate!!"
Yeah, I concentrate better when people STFU
Great thing about multi-pitch climbing... to far off the ground to be bothered by pep talk
Peace
karl
Edit: shameless Knee Scum after V-15
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUoFXV7MgR4&feature=related
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jun 26, 2012 - 01:17am PT
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Ahhh, now....
The kids are ripping it today. Get over it.
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