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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 13, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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I'm all for climbing V15 and all that, but shouldn't topping out be as stylish as the ascent to the lip?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=qr5LqZEhu7A
You be the judge.
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GrandMastaD
Social climber
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Jun 13, 2007 - 10:02pm PT
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Cameraman: "Don't make a mistake!"
That's the beta I need!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 13, 2007 - 10:06pm PT
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I don't understand the criticism? Was there not enough enthusiasm for the 5.4 finishing moves that he did? The celebration on top lacked gusto?
edit...thanks for the link...nice climbing.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jun 13, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
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the word is spelled mantel
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 13, 2007 - 10:29pm PT
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And that is why I'm partial to the stories of the Californians who might not have been as official rad as the people and places I'm supposed to care about.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jun 13, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
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Nice climbing. Yeah, I'd have tried to avoid the mantel too ;)
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Jun 14, 2007 - 01:04am PT
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whale flopping is a subcategory of mantelling.
i'm stellar at it.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jun 14, 2007 - 01:10am PT
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Don't be a clown.
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wildone
climber
The Astroman of 5.9
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Jun 14, 2007 - 01:13am PT
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I actually know a mantel boulder problem in curry that you can't do any other way than the "beached whale".
So put that in your pipe and smoke it.
Also, I'm drunk.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jun 14, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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"The Fish Mantel" at Woodson is infamous.
No one should visit Mt. woodson without doing The Fish Mantel with friends all watching at the end of the day before you call it quits. ROTFLYAO funny.
Classic.
I agree. If a climb tops out then you need to finish it properly. Sometimes the mantel at the very end of the climb when you are all pumped is the crux. If you cut it out --- you are cheating.
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pro_alien
Sport climber
Zurich, Switzerland
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Jun 14, 2007 - 01:48am PT
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I vote for the beached whale belly flop.
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Salamanizer
Mountain climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Jun 14, 2007 - 04:33pm PT
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You can see at the end of the video how he was too busy chokeing back his vomit to care about his top out presentation.
AMATEUR!!!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jun 14, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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Marty, may be you could hop on and really show him how its done eh?
Cool footage in any case thanks for the link-
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the chemist
climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Jun 14, 2007 - 05:46pm PT
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That wasn't too bad, check this footage of Dani Andrada using his knees.
http://www.nodogmaclimbing.com/videos/chopos.wmv
The knees come in at the 4:10 mark.
Must be a hard climb if dude who is a more elegant climber than I could dream of being has to use his knees.
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Sir Run-it-out
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 14, 2007 - 06:15pm PT
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Couple of good comments below the utube video.
Why are so many climbing and bouldering videos ruined by the cameraman shouting at the top of their voice? Can't they learn
to keep quiet? Do they ever watch their own videos?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jun 14, 2007 - 06:18pm PT
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Nice video with the sound off. His ascent and top out is splendid. What is your problem?
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bler
Boulder climber
Alamo, CA
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Jun 14, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
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what, you've never used a cock-lock?
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Jun 14, 2007 - 09:16pm PT
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Dan Gleason put up this sick mantel problem in teh Nogan, you full extension reach over this roof to twin slopers and then have to cut your feet off the back wall under the roof and hip scum/trutch your center of gravity over the roof while not shaking yourself of the slopes and then eventually transfer weight to one foot about 5" below the slopes and then stand up on it. No other way to do it.
Sex With Santa Klaus or Beached Whale, depending on the agegroup.
My friend was out there flashing v7's and firing v8's second try and he couldn't even come close to doing it.
Thrutching is totally valid.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jun 14, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
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Where's Run Amuck? He's pretty much the acknowledged master of the grainy Woodson mantel.
I watched a woman, a very accomplished sport climber, onsite a tricky 5.11 at the quarry on my property. She just floated the thing, but confronted with the simple mantel at the top she blew right off - the move is easier than the mantel on Nutcracker.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jun 15, 2007 - 04:33am PT
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In context with this thread, it seems strange I once so loved mantels. I went out of my way to find them. Of course back then I was a gymnast and could do hollow-back presses off the floor. According to some, I invented the one-arm mantel, starting in a one-arm hang on a two-inch wide ledge... I loved those awful rounded tops of boulders, where I had to do something like a pure muscle-up. I took pride in doing all of Pratt's mantels in Camp 4. He was amazing. Royal did a few too, with his dislocating shoulders (bringing his elbows together in front of his face, with both heels of his hands on a small hold at his waist). I used mantel techniques of various varieties on assorted face climbs. In Tuolumne I often looked up to try to find some small hand hold I could mantel onto. I never felt more solid than when I was manteling. I guess I and we were all kind of nuts. I can't even do a push-up anymore, because "adhesive capsulitis" ruined my shoulder, so I think now I have joined those climbers who become soft as overcooked spaghetti at the site of a mantel...
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