A Thread for 5.8

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 261 - 273 of total 273 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Aug 29, 2018 - 03:48pm PT
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
Aug 29, 2018 - 03:58pm PT

Snowy Mountain ,New York,5.8 all over it.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Aug 29, 2018 - 05:43pm PT
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
Aug 29, 2018 - 06:13pm PT
Likewise.
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Aug 29, 2018 - 06:33pm PT
North Ridge of Steeple, in the Winds is a fine five eighter.

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 29, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
Mike Church leads Baby, Shawangunks, 1980...one of our first climbs in the 'Gunks, chosen because "how hard can 5.8 be?"

...By the way, Baby is an interesting 5.8 to lead... usually we did it, BITD, with about 4 pieces to the belay.

This is my oldest image of 5.8, and I've shown most of my other images (at least the presentable ones)...

Bad news Ed. Back in 1980, Baby was 5.6. With the passage of time, it has made it up to 5.7. It may well finally get to 5.8, but no idea how long that will take.

As the difficulty rating have gone up, the seriousness has gone down, from ground-fall level protection when Fritz did it to an overhead pro from a large cam nowadays. Progress!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 29, 2018 - 07:50pm PT
Ed mentioned the unknown chimney at Eagle Lake


bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Aug 30, 2018 - 10:24am PT
5.8 could be anything and that's great. but really the whole YDS could be broken down to 3 ratings 5.9+ 5.10+ and 5.11+. what else do you need ?

leave "sandbag" out of it. Your now a victim because the routes was to hard for you and your ego?
hailman

Trad climber
Ventura, CA
Aug 30, 2018 - 01:23pm PT
meat and potatoes of Coffin Nail, Tahquitz


PS. With respect to some of the ratings discussion above, it seems 5.0 to 5.3 are almost completely ignored these days. It's like scrambling continues through 5.3 (people say "oh it's easy fifth I just soloed it), and if you use a rope it's automatically 5.4 or higher.

Even the Mountain Project listings for Tahquitz are bogus. Both The Trough and White Maiden's are listed as 5.4. Thought they were 'the definition' of 5.0 and 5.1, respectively.......?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 31, 2018 - 09:14am PT
of course, right there in my ancient copy of Williams "red" guide to the 'Gunks (bought in 1980), is the exact point that rgold makes, Baby is 5.6.

A good climb and a fine tribute to the first ascent party.

FA 1941: Fritz Wiessner, Mary Cecil, and Betty Woolsey.

Amazing symmetry, having done the climb 39 years after the FA, and discussing that ascent 38 years later.

hellroaring

Trad climber
San Francisco
Aug 31, 2018 - 01:21pm PT
Anyone out there have a photo of Sparerib in Gallatin Canyon Montana?
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 31, 2018 - 01:53pm PT
Ah Steeple! Climbed it years ago. We didn't tunnel through and instead climbed an offwidth crack on the left side of the boulder that forms the roof of the tunnel. Why? I have no idea.

A major epic ensued when the weather came in while we were just starting the summit raps, a reminder that 5.8 can turn from mellow to hell-oh! in the mountains.

I wrote about it elsewhere on this site: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/893158/A-walk-with-McCarthy-in-the-Winds
wilbeer

Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
Aug 31, 2018 - 04:55pm PT
There is nothing like the Winds,IMO. Good Stuff.

Miss them,I am going to ski Gannett before ..... I have been close.
I will.It is a serious mixed climb, descent,a commitment.
Messages 261 - 273 of total 273 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta