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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jul 28, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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Hah hah! When the blocks can be wiggled with your hand that IS running it out! (it is a Zero) Looks a lot more like a Zero to me. And I'm not sure I'd call 4 feet of rope running it out, AC...
Nice stuff Chiloe and you other dudes too! Woot!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 28, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Best 5.8's on this Planet are in the Gunks.
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Jul 28, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
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Fact: They are at the City.
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reddirt
climber
PNW
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Jul 29, 2011 - 04:18am PT
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has anyone mentioned Irene's Arete yet? (ok, so it's 5.8-10ish)
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:32am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 10:38am PT
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Scariest route I've done in years was only 5.8.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 29, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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Here is a beauty put up by the Conn's on Rubyiatt(spelling?) in the Cathedral Spires.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
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5.8 was all I ever aspired to...
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cowpoke
climber
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Moby Grape at Cannon, yesterday.
A few of the pitches are carved into beautiful, seemingly solid granite slaps. Others make cairns along the approach look bomber. An early start, clouds, and a little thunderstorm meant the cliff temps were close to perfect. And, after 6 months of "working" on adding training weight, 5.8 was just right. The hike down was another matter. Car thermometer read 92 in the shade, and I was hurtin'...still am today!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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Moby Grape has some of the best rock on Cannon, but I recall thinking there were whole pitches that could just fall off. Perfect granite that's not attached to anything.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 09:54pm PT
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good ol' days bump
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jul 22, 2018 - 02:05am PT
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 22, 2018 - 05:44am PT
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Here is a photo taken a few weeks ago of the Wind Rivers with the Cirque of the Towers below. In the far distance is the East Fork Valley. If you enlarge the image of the East Fork, that big buttress on the right is Raid peak, and the 16 pitch buttress is only 5.8. The hike in is also about 16 miles.
Obviously, the classic 5.8 on Pingora is a great choice, shown in the photo as well.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jul 22, 2018 - 07:12am PT
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White Punks for the rock, cracks and sheer quality.Whitney, East Buttress for bigger, higher and total output.Hermit Spire- this route seems to resists you from start to finish.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jul 22, 2018 - 07:58am PT
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We have done many memorable 5.8s on this trip. Most recently a really cool 5 pitch ramp to tower thing in the East Rosebud MT. Someone told us what canyon to take and follow the crack system. Great Adventure.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 22, 2018 - 09:39am PT
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My vote is for the NE Ridge on Bugaboo Spire. Great rock, great line, and superb position
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 22, 2018 - 09:53am PT
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AP
I just went to a cook out and Dave Isles was there who lives about 2 hours drive from me. Dave was on the 1st ascent of that route on Bugaboo Spire, along with John Turner, Craft, and Sykes. There are so many great 5.8's!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 22, 2018 - 10:01am PT
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yes on Bugaboo Spire, though regretfully we didn't do it then...1985
in 1995 we had planned on it, but the weather got in the way, here is a shot across Bugaboo Spire, the red dot on the ridge with the cloud band in the background is a team summiting on that route
that was the last good weather day in the range that summer.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 22, 2018 - 10:33am PT
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Pingora... Northeast Face, August 2001
better to leave Kelsey's topo on the ground and just climb it the 5.8 way... though there are interesting variations at harder grades!
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SuperTopo on the Web
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