Discussion Topic |
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2007 - 01:05pm PT
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Michael Hjorth shot this photo last week, on an old 5.8 route with character -- Via Internationale at Kullen. Test the blocks, brush guano off the holds, don't even think about smearing on that green stuff ... blue sea below us. I was lovin' it. Dig the flower.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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Heh, it's me above that Alien. I was less worried about the hardware than the placement, behind the same block as our anchor and kinda hollow-sounding for my tastes. But you go with what you can get.
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dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
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Jun 11, 2007 - 02:01pm PT
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GNARBALLS!!
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M.Tea
Trad climber
Utah
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Jun 11, 2007 - 02:34pm PT
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that's no alien...but it IS a cool photo!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jun 11, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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Cool Pic!
Looks a lot more like a Zero to me. And I'm not sure I'd call 4 feet of rope running it out, AC...
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 11, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
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You're lucky you didn't fall, that rope would have snapped like clothesline.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 11, 2007 - 06:28pm PT
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I hope you were going to fall in the water, because I doubt any of that gear would have held.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
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Like I say, I was lovin' it. ST'er (and top Danish climber) Michael was a most excellent host, meaning partly that he led all the weird pitches including one that flat punched me out. Anders Strange Nielsen was part of the fun too.
A few more photos thanks to Michael, I claim no credit for these (except the last).
Here's Michael, who thoughtfully packed a couple of most excellent warm beers for toasting our day from the clifftop.
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 11, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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Tell him to chuck that rope and I'll see to it he gets a real one.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2007 - 01:45am PT
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Really? I think Michael could use a new rope, that one was a bit furry.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Jun 12, 2007 - 06:18pm PT
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Thanks for posting, Chiloe. And thanks for sharing a very good trip to southern Sweden.
The trip was the fruit of a ST meeting - and did we talk ST in the car?! It was just a slight extension of the ST/C4 campfire.
Oh - he-he - thanks for the comments on my rope.
Same rope as in this picture. Me on Kullen as well, only 25 years previously. Whillans harness and EBs have been dumped, though.
Michael
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Jun 12, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
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Yow - maybe we can pass the hat so he can retire that 25 year old rope!
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 12, 2007 - 06:33pm PT
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Michael,
Email me a shipping address and I'll see what I can do.
There's a catch, however. If I'm successful in getting a rope to you I want you to post a photo of the old rope cut to pieces.
This is not a troll. Verify this with Chiloe.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
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Ja, wootles is for real.
So we were climbing on a 25-year-old rope? Wild!
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john hansen
climber
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Jun 12, 2007 - 11:55pm PT
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What type of rope is it and from when?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2007 - 12:12am PT
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Domingo
Mountain climber
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Jun 13, 2007 - 12:50am PT
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That yellow cam placement looks a bit sketch but my computer lighting could be off.
Kan du bestig mycket pa Sverige? Jag visste inte...
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Jun 13, 2007 - 08:39am PT
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It's all very thoughtfull of you. But then again, leader should never fall (Chiloe certainly didn't) and who has ever heard of a rope breaking?
Even though, with all that green rock and guano I am happy I wasn't up there...
Michael
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
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Yesterday, elsewhere, some other 5.8, newer rope but it's only an 8.4. Anybody recognize this guy?
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 17, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
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Nice hat.
Is that Ennis Del Mar?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 08:19am PT
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Heh, wrong cowboy! I thought the hat would be a dead giveaway, but it was too out-of-context for the westerners perhaps.
Only a Nor'easterner would know the route, though. See the white flake overhead? We'll get out a photo TR of the other stuff soon.
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 18, 2007 - 09:06am PT
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The climber kind of looks like GOclimb but I can't be sure.
I'm sure I should know the route but I can't quite place it.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Jun 18, 2007 - 10:33am PT
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I see tar opted for the single line, looks fun
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 18, 2007 - 10:49am PT
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Is it on Whitehorse?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 11:04am PT
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snakefoot, yeah, we used the doubles to get a couple pitches up CC (just one long rap down), then decided to "go light" on this route. Less clever than it sounded because we ended up needing both ropes to get down, again.
wootles, it's definitely on Whitehorse.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 11:18am PT
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Very cool thread. Out of curiousity, how many distinct seacliff areas have been developed in the NE these days?
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 18, 2007 - 11:25am PT
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Central area, maybe the Sleeping Beauty area?
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L
climber
A small kayak on a very big ocean
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Jun 18, 2007 - 12:04pm PT
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Great photos, Chiloe. That first one of you and the flower had my palms sweating for sure--but it certainly looked like a great climb.
And that shot of Tarbaby is an all-time classic! (Does that guy not believe in aging or what???)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
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wootles:
Central area, maybe the Sleeping Beauty area?
Correct area, and remember the title of the thread! (I'd say more but that would spoil the fun, and yeah, you do know the route.)
L:
Great photos, Chiloe. That first one of you and the flower had my palms sweating for sure--but it certainly looked like a great climb.
Thanks, I thought Michael's photos caught the "atmosphere" of the place well.
And that shot of Tarbaby is an all-time classic! (Does that guy not believe in aging or what???)
One or two even better (IMHO) cowboy-hat photos from other North Conway classics yet to come; I'm waiting for Tar to get back online before posting. He shot a few too, don't know what they'll show. Tar and Lisa (who took first in her division, btw, at the tough Mt. Washington road race) ought to be kickin' back on Cape Cod today.
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 18, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
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OK I'm thinking Short Order and that crack is the upper part on Sleeping Beauty.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
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Now yah got it, Short Order. Just what we needed at day's end, almost beer time. Sleeping Beauty is the cleaned diagonal line at top left in the photo.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
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Wootles, you're right, it does kinda look like me! Never been in that section of the cliff, though, I don't think. Might haveta change that, though, looks cool.
Chiloe, drop me a line if you're still around. Been too long since we've roped up.
GO
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 05:00pm PT
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And here's a 5.8 I did recently. Allison seconding Bishop's Terrace. Really nice climbing. Sorry the photo doesn't do it justice.
GO
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 05:05pm PT
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And on the other side of the country, Crow Hill, the best local crag in Massachusetts contains this gem called Tarzan. In this pic, Jen rallies her strength before heading into the 20 foot crux. Tarzan is a steep and technical 5.8. Sustained, with jams, laybacks, stems, slopers, and crimps. If you can lead this climb, you can lead any trad 5.8 in Mass!
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 06:05pm PT
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Nice photos, Gabe. Sounds like Tarzan is another of those old-school 5.8s that had teeth.
Great weather like this and the bugs aren't too bad, I'll send you a note the next window I have.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Lately, I've been seeing a lot of this mellow grade.
Tarbuster again two years later, this time stylin' across Ruper.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Swedish climbers are core!
Holy crap - I replace my rope every year.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Want to have serious fun? Spend a day climbing "only" 5.8 in the Gunks.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Herb Laeger and Paul Clark designated this one as a 5.8 on the FA. Following an early ascent Eddie Joe pronounced this to be "the sandbag of the century."
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Gilroy
Social climber
Boulderado
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Good thing he is "fairly solid" on "5.8."
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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My son & I drove home over Tioga Pass a month or so ago, after the Steve/Mimi nuptials, and just had to stop and climb something in the Meadows. Drawing on fuzzy memories, we scampered up 5.8 Truck n' Drive on Lembert 32 years after I'd last done it. I was glad to see upgraded bolts on the route, though those pesky stainless hangers are a lot harder to spot in the distance than old rusty Leepers.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Here's a 5.8
Not for the 5.8 leader
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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donini:
Want to have serious fun? Spend a day climbing "only" 5.8 in the Gunks.
Oh yeah. Leading classic Gunks 5.8 on sight feels like a mini adventure. F'rinstance Airy Aria,
linking the first two pitches.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
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Different climb, oddly similar perspective -- Main Line (5.8) in the Gunks.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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Also in the Near Trapps, Eastertime Too.
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perswig
climber
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What, Short Order's an .8? So much for my early-season stoke.
Hope the Book's still at least 5.9? Please? My ego needs it.
(Really, only the awkward left reach off the funky cam mid-pitch seemed tricky. I'd vote for 5.8+ :))
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perswig
climber
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I'd have to offer up P1 of Chitlin's Corner (Precipice) and Gargoyle (S. Bubble) in Acadia as great climbs at the grade.
Dale
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Any of you 5.8 leaders want to do an FA come on up to Tahoe and Shakespeare has close too 100 5.8 ish FA's. Bring your sack.....I'll lead my share.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2009 - 11:12am PT
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What, Short Order's an .8?
Funny, I first climbed Truckin' Drive (upthread) and Short Order in the same season
(1982), and thought they were similar difficulty, say 5.8+, and psychological "type"
(thin face with spaced-out bolts). Both real fun climbs.
Don't know what the consensus is about Short Order now. As with a lot of 5.8s, the
leader should try hard not to fall.
As for the Book of Solemnity (5.9+), first time I did that I thought it would be 10a in
Eldo. Likewise the 2nd pitch of Chitlins Corner, which was 5.9+ in my guidebook.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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One more Gunks 5.8: the first pitch of Main Line. Guidebook calls this pitch 5.7 (the
second, upthread, contains the 5.8) but when we climbed it the first pitch was soaking
wet and seemed harder.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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5.8.
Photo by Blitzo.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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This is an infamous 5.8 in Taylor Canyon, Gunnison. Left Hand is one of those sequence dependent cracks that kicks you out and feels like 5.10 until you figure it out.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Photos by Blitzo.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Tork, What is that?
Awesome photo!!!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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That looks good!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Photo by Blitzo.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Photo by Blitzo.
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richross
Trad climber
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Me following Bonnie's Roof,Gunks.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Awesome pics guys! Thanks.
Cheers,
Doug
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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In celebration of summer, now that summer's gone (credits to Leslie & Cowpoke, photographers):
"A 5.8 route for 5.10 leaders" quoth the guidebook. Maybe not, but it's fun. No Pigs at Echo.
Pine Tree Eliminate on Cathedral looks so easy 'til you're there, wishing for a hex.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Rich
That's a classic picture on a classic route!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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Here's a picture looking down the pitch that's in adam d's photo above.
A wild place for 5.8.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
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The Gunks must have one of the best concentrations of classic, memorable 5.8s in the country.
Here's another view of the crux (Son of Easy O) in adam's pic above (David Lucander photo).
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Just about any route rated 5.8 by Mark Powell in the mid-50's will keep your full attention.
John
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
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Post a few?
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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White Punks on Dope
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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The Nutcracker
The Needle's Eye
Tricouni Nail (see Rgoldstone's July 4th photo up thread)
El Cracko Diablo
Bon Home
Soler
Saterfield's Crack
Fantasia (the leap and Vedauwoo at various times)
hermaphrodite flake et al
The regular route on fairview.
many, many more
a lot of cool stuff happens at, or about, that grade...
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cowpoke
climber
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a couple of (on) frogland RR (Chiloe gets the photo credits):
one at DT that Jaybro mentioned for about 5.8 (Kelly gets the photo credit):
and one at DT, but not mentioned:
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Some good ones...
Braille Book, Yosemite
Granite Savior, Granite Mountain, AZ
Mars Attacks, Sedona
Morning's Mourning, The Overlook, AZ
Petit Grepon, RMNP, CO
Ruper, Eldorado Canyon, CO
Rye Crisp, City of Rocks, ID
Triple S (Shipley's Shivering Shimmy), Seneca Rocks, WV
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Spare Rib, Gallatin Canyon
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Wow this is a really great thread.
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adam d
climber
closer to waves than rock
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yup...if you can't enjoy 5.8 there's something wrong with you!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Some of my faves shown. Igor, 5.8......OK...OK...I,, yuh huh... understand that.
Blitzo....that one looked 5.11. Tony Yaniro in EBs?
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adam d
climber
closer to waves than rock
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looked a little like spider line but not quite...def NOT 5.8!!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2009 - 10:11am PT
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There will be a story about this particular ascent coming in Alpinist 28, I believe.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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And, how could I have forgotten,
Magnolia Thunder Pussy?
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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A pitch or two from Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock should be represented in photos here...
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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LOL Jay...
Or for that matter Rotert's
"Titties and Beer"
Surprised Chiloe (or any New Englander) has not mentioned:
N.Conway - Bombardment
Franconia - Reppy's
And is this independent routes or do single pitches qualify?
If so I plug for the 'DBL crack' pith up to Big Sandy.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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The Mechanic's Route.
One of the older ones.
The last moves to the first belay can be cruxy if your legs are to short on one end.
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adam d
climber
closer to waves than rock
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Reppy's Crack, Cannon
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I want to climb Reppy's! Anyone heading that way via Wolf City, tonight, after work?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I tried to post it by adding img tags, when that didn't work I looked at it saw it is on my face, I believe they don't allow linking and you have to have it hosted elsewhere, like photobucket.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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what a way to start the weekend. 5.8 is great. Great pictures...I gotta lose some weight...thanks for the inspiration
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Squeaking in with a 5.7+ Stettner's Ledges from 1927.
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MH2
climber
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The Gunks have many great 5.8s
Squamish has Clean Corner.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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museum, where is that one?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Hard to believe but this was mid-November BITD, as if the apparel and
gear didn't already scream that. I wonder how much of that moss is
still on the first pitch.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Supertopo Tony, Yvonne and I went to England in in 2007. This is how all my posts begin, but: "Pouring over book-X in year-Y, I've wanted to climb route-Z". In this case it was Mountain #26 "True Grit", 1973 and English gritstone. I couldn't remember how hard these routes were, but we're now 5.8 climbers so, there you go. The first was at Bamford Edge above our lodgings (pub!) by the Ladybower Resevoir.
The following are from some super moderate climb at Stanage (Balcony Buttress) that we translated to 5.6. Whatever. I whimpered on the lead, and you might notice the pro every 6 inches or so.
The following are from the NW end of Stanage Edge. We all found the gritstone grain milling wheels super interesting and between us, photos of them must have comprised half our pictures.
The birding was super cool, too. Then Tony and Yvonne went off North and climbed Ardverikie Wall on Binnein Shuas in the Central Scottish Highlands.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Munge, that one is the super uber classic "Stardancer" at Mt Rushmore...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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classic!
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Oct 10, 2009 - 12:17am PT
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there's a 5.8 in there somewhere...
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 10, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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Man, that was fun! More pictures!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 11, 2009 - 04:21am PT
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Did a "previously unreported " climb today;...Starrbonne (5.8)......it was a very good climb, a beautiful day, with a great view on cool rock....This picture was taken at about 5:00 this evening....Joshua Tree, Ca.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Oct 11, 2009 - 10:52am PT
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McCarthy N face P1. Sorry if posted previously..
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Nov 17, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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Gentlemen,
I need to put you attention to the first picture and TR on this thread: Chiloe's and my visit to Kullen in Sweden more than two years ago. Which promted several of you to question the safety of Chiloe, climbing as he apperantly was on a 20+ years rope...
Ofcause he wasn't! It was maybe three years old (but - ok - of questionable east european quality). Anyway, Wootles promised me a new Sterling. And he kept his word! Chiloe visited me in Copenhagen yesterday, and brought with him a nice, strong and unique Sterling rope. Wouw, I didn't deserve that!
The old rope HAS been cut up (so I can use it on plastic walls...), and this new one will be put to good use on slimy wet, green, loose and cold Kullen next weekend. Looking forward to that.
Thanks again, Wootles!
Chiloe, show us the picture!
Michael
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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OK, Michael, let's update the story! The original rope in question appeared in this photo that
Michael took in Kullen, Sweden ("the best climbing in Denmark!") back about 2 years ago.
Seeing this photo, the avatar formerly known as wootles remarked,
You're lucky you didn't fall, that rope would have snapped like clothesline.
Tell him to chuck that rope and I'll see to it he gets a real one.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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Michael replied with an old black and white photo,
Oh - he-he - thanks for the comments on my rope.
Same rope as in this picture. Me on Kullen as well, only 25 years previously. Whillans harness
and EBs have been dumped, though
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
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This caused wootles to respond,
There's a catch, however. If I'm successful in getting a rope to you I want you to post a photo
of the old rope cut to pieces.
This is not a troll. Verify this with Chiloe.
I think Michael still suspected he was being trolled.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Nov 17, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
|
DUDE ! That route will never make it on to 8a ! Furry ropes are way good, easier to grip.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Nov 17, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
|
Woups, 25 years! Did I write that?!
What a cheeky bastard I was. Sorry!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
|
Intentions were good, but for a long time nothing came of this banter. Events did not line
up favorably for a transatlantic rope-toss.
Then, a couple of weeks ago, I went climbing at Whitehorse with wootles (who has since
changed his name).
I mentioned that I would be passing through Michael's town soon, and could drop off a rope if
wootles still wanted to follow through on that old SuperTopo thread.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
|
And so it happened that, although the closest I got to climbing on this trip was a nice view
from the 21st floor,
I did get invited over for dinner with Michael's family and also astrange, on the right here,
who together with Michael comprises the Danish chapter of SuperTopo.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
|
And Michael now owns a prototype Sterling rope, only 2 of its kind in the world so I'm told.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
|
Which might be overkill for those Kullen belays!
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richross
Trad climber
|
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Nov 17, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
|
Me taking it down a notch to 5.7.
Mt. Desert Island,Maine 1985.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
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Nov 17, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
|
Split Decision 5.8+
Wandering Bovine 5.8
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
|
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Nov 17, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
|
Thanks for the full round up, Larry!
Just a slight drift:
Two remarks to your nice picture of Copenhagen:
1: The great building on the left will (hopefully) soon be turned into one of the highest indoor climbing walls in Europe.
2: Went up the spiral stairs on that central tower (Frelser Kirke) with my girls a few months ago. Youngest takes no notice of the 60+ meter above the streets; the other begging me to take them down again.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
|
That's a lovely windblown photo of your girls, Michael. And Copenhagen's a fine city.
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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
|
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Nov 17, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
|
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Nov 17, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
|
Traitor Horn and Mechanics Route on Taquitz gotta get honorable mention, forsure.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
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Nov 17, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
|
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Jul 28, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
|
Hah hah! When the blocks can be wiggled with your hand that IS running it out! (it is a Zero) Looks a lot more like a Zero to me. And I'm not sure I'd call 4 feet of rope running it out, AC...
Nice stuff Chiloe and you other dudes too! Woot!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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Jul 28, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
|
Best 5.8's on this Planet are in the Gunks.
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
|
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Jul 28, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
|
Fact: They are at the City.
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reddirt
climber
PNW
|
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Jul 29, 2011 - 04:18am PT
|
has anyone mentioned Irene's Arete yet? (ok, so it's 5.8-10ish)
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:32am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 10:38am PT
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Scariest route I've done in years was only 5.8.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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|
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
|
Here is a beauty put up by the Conn's on Rubyiatt(spelling?) in the Cathedral Spires.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
|
5.8 was all I ever aspired to...
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cowpoke
climber
|
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Moby Grape at Cannon, yesterday.
A few of the pitches are carved into beautiful, seemingly solid granite slaps. Others make cairns along the approach look bomber. An early start, clouds, and a little thunderstorm meant the cliff temps were close to perfect. And, after 6 months of "working" on adding training weight, 5.8 was just right. The hike down was another matter. Car thermometer read 92 in the shade, and I was hurtin'...still am today!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
|
Moby Grape has some of the best rock on Cannon, but I recall thinking there were whole pitches that could just fall off. Perfect granite that's not attached to anything.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jul 21, 2018 - 09:54pm PT
|
good ol' days bump
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 02:05am PT
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 05:44am PT
|
Here is a photo taken a few weeks ago of the Wind Rivers with the Cirque of the Towers below. In the far distance is the East Fork Valley. If you enlarge the image of the East Fork, that big buttress on the right is Raid peak, and the 16 pitch buttress is only 5.8. The hike in is also about 16 miles.
Obviously, the classic 5.8 on Pingora is a great choice, shown in the photo as well.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 07:12am PT
|
White Punks for the rock, cracks and sheer quality.Whitney, East Buttress for bigger, higher and total output.Hermit Spire- this route seems to resists you from start to finish.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
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Jul 22, 2018 - 07:58am PT
|
We have done many memorable 5.8s on this trip. Most recently a really cool 5 pitch ramp to tower thing in the East Rosebud MT. Someone told us what canyon to take and follow the crack system. Great Adventure.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 09:39am PT
|
My vote is for the NE Ridge on Bugaboo Spire. Great rock, great line, and superb position
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
|
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Jul 22, 2018 - 09:53am PT
|
AP
I just went to a cook out and Dave Isles was there who lives about 2 hours drive from me. Dave was on the 1st ascent of that route on Bugaboo Spire, along with John Turner, Craft, and Sykes. There are so many great 5.8's!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jul 22, 2018 - 10:01am PT
|
yes on Bugaboo Spire, though regretfully we didn't do it then...1985
in 1995 we had planned on it, but the weather got in the way, here is a shot across Bugaboo Spire, the red dot on the ridge with the cloud band in the background is a team summiting on that route
that was the last good weather day in the range that summer.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 10:33am PT
|
Pingora... Northeast Face, August 2001
better to leave Kelsey's topo on the ground and just climb it the 5.8 way... though there are interesting variations at harder grades!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
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Jul 22, 2018 - 01:17pm PT
|
Oh and beware if you climb the NE ridge of Bugaboo after 4 days of storms like first time I did it in 1980. The top 4 pitches were coated in ice, we had 1 axe each , full shank boots, and no ice gear. I did a lot of chopping and the last bump we had to climb from rock to rock sticking out of the ice.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 03:33pm PT
|
The Bugs are "alpine" after all...
Here, Lawrence two ropes it on 'Gunks, Son of Easy O, 1987
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 03:38pm PT
|
Bela leads out on p4 of Ewephoria Cochise Stronghold 2018
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 07:36pm PT
|
nobody else has lead 5.8?
it would seem a low bar...
Steve York leads The Flake, Joshua Tree, 2008
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
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|
Jul 22, 2018 - 08:15pm PT
|
Nice variety on the Flake
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 01:37am PT
|
Ejesta, Yosemite Valley
Gary Carpenter, 2009
Linda Jarit, 2017
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 07:59am PT
|
Steve York in Elevator Shaft, Yosemite Valley, 2008
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2018 - 09:38am PT
|
Arrowhead Arete, Yosemite Valley
Gary, 2008
Linda, 2013
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 10:00am PT
|
Haystack, Lover's Leap
Eric Gabel, 2013
|
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2018 - 10:58am PT
|
,,,,,,,,, There Is 5.8,,,,,,, Then There is High-E The Hard Way, 5.8,,,,,,,,
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:05am PT
|
There is something special about 5.8 climbs. They’re hard enough to hold interest and require attentive movement but easy enough to keep the climbing relaxed. All in all, 5.8s usually serve up a delicious menu of climbing delights.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:35am PT
|
Not to mention that many old 5.8's have been upgraded to 5.9 (outside of Joshua Tree that is)
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2018 - 11:48am PT
|
The Bon Homme Variation at the tower is a fantastic 5.8 outing.
|
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
|
Great Red Book in Red Rock, only 2p, but def worth it!
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
|
Otto's Route, Colorado National Monument.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 05:54pm PT
|
Legitimation 5.8 *** FA Munge and Mtnyoung Autumn of 2004, SPH
mtnyoung getting in one of the later bolts. Someone didn't bring enough draws on his go, so the bottom clips were repurposed. :)
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 06:10pm PT
|
Birdland, Gunks
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jul 23, 2018 - 09:42pm PT
|
Nutcracker, Yosemite Valley
Mike Dalquist, 2005
Callie Rennison, 2007
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jul 23, 2018 - 09:45pm PT
|
Bishop's Terrace, Yosemite Valley
Duke Cutter, 2001
Lisa Poyneer, 2003
Roger Breedlove, 2010
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 23, 2018 - 09:47pm PT
|
C.S. Concerto, Yosemite Valley
Rik Rieder, 2010
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 01:11am PT
|
The Block, Right, Tuolumne Meadows
Gary Carpenter, 2004
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 08:50am PT
|
Satterfield's Crack, Vedauwoo
Zander, 2007
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jul 24, 2018 - 08:52am PT
|
FA of Phatima, Crackistan
Steve Moyles leads, 2007
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 08:54am PT
|
Melissa Michelitsch taking off from the belay on Hanging Teeth, on a FOBIAD trial run, Yosemite Valley, 2007
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 08:55am PT
|
Jaybro teasing Cid's Embrace, Yosemite Valley, 2007
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 08:56am PT
|
Dave Grote on Lotta Balls, Red Rocks, 2006
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 08:58am PT
|
Casey McTaggert cruising Little John, Left, Yosemite Valley, 2005
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 05:07pm PT
|
me cruising up The ramp in east rosebud Montana a few days ago..
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 07:01pm PT
|
Ddriver on The Owl. All the Triple Cracks are 5.8 except the fourth one.
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 07:44pm PT
|
nice!!
Jaybro coming up on The Gollum, Right, Yosemite Valley, 2007
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 08:43pm PT
|
Shagadelic, Tuolumne Meadows
Lawrence Wienke, 2006
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 24, 2018 - 09:04pm PT
|
another view of i'm gumby dammit's ledge, from After Five (which is a 5.7 that will kick you ass like a Valley "5.9"), a route that nobody does, nobody...
...Gabel in the foreground not withstanding
I count at least 5 people on that popular ledge, May 2006
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 25, 2018 - 07:41am PT
|
The Ordeal, Pinnacles National Monument
Gary Carpenter, 2003
and 2013
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Jul 25, 2018 - 08:52am PT
|
Natural, Yosemite Valley
Eric Gabel, 2003
likely follows a 1985 Shipley/Middendorf line called Fireside Chat no bolts were found, none were added, simply walk up to the cliff and follow the natural line to the top.
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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|
Jul 25, 2018 - 11:01am PT
|
Certainly the most unusual 5.7-5.8(ish) we've done:
A classic 160 meter British chalk climb.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2018 - 02:06pm PT
|
hey your chalky choss needs to be in the choss compels you thread! :)
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 25, 2018 - 09:47pm PT
|
Magical Mystery Tour, Tuolumne Meadows
Gary Carpenter, 2003,
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 26, 2018 - 12:01am PT
|
South Crack, Tuolumne Meadows
Steve York, 2010
Linda Jarit, 2011
Aaron Smud, 2012
Rob Sharpe, 2013
Mike Church, 2013
|
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
|
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|
Jul 26, 2018 - 06:46am PT
|
^^^
not fair
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 26, 2018 - 07:27am PT
|
Steve Cassels follows across the traverse on Little John, Right, Yosemite Valley, 2002
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 26, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
|
Sue Godar on pitch 1 Escher's Way, Shuteye, 2010
|
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
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|
Jul 26, 2018 - 09:03pm PT
|
How about the north arete of Crystal Crag, Mammoth area?
I lost my sunglasses on the approach, and climbing the last pitch in bright sunlight was painful! The sunlight reflecting off the solid white quartz dike was blinding!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
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|
Jul 26, 2018 - 09:09pm PT
|
What about the Fingertrip on Tahquitz ?
While some might argue that it’s not 5.8 the first pitch has a 5.8 variation.
|
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Rick Linkert
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
|
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|
Jul 26, 2018 - 09:18pm PT
|
Let’s not forget the wonderful “Satan’s Slab” in Boulder. Climbed one fine fall day with Chiloe in the late Pleistocene era. A nice long slab climb in a beautiful side canyon. Has a bit of runout here and there but nothing of consequence for the Tuolomne gang.
Cheers
Rick
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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|
Jul 27, 2018 - 06:14am PT
|
Great Pumpkin, Tuolumne Meadows, 2012
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2018 - 07:44pm PT
|
Eric Gabel, Deviate, Lover's Leap, 2013
|
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
|
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|
Jul 28, 2018 - 07:52pm PT
|
Ed,
You are mastering this thread AND 5.8 too.
So many great routes for the everyday man out there.
In the 'Hard 5.8' category Braille Book is legit.
"tradmanclimbs,' your "The Ramp" is yet another route of the same name to the one I'm thinking of on Flagpole Peak above Echo Lake in Tahoe area. A very nice 5.8 lieback on great rock, nice summit too.
Great Pumpkin! Loved it and felt the exposure as I recall.
Here is to the everyman! (that I onetime was!)
now I'm Plantar Phat Dad itis...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 09:59am PT
|
The Harry Daley Route, Yosemite Valley
Steve Cassels, 2002
Brandon, 2011
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 10:49am PT
|
Harry Daily 5.8? Really? 🙀
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 10:54am PT
|
when spelling is corrected...
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|
WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 11:07am PT
|
K Cracks on Pingora's SE buttress are pretty fine 5.8.
|
|
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
|
Tripple S at Seneca is worth mentioning.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 03:53pm PT
|
I am enjoying the thread. Sorry I can't contribute a photo - I never carry a camera, and would rather my partner focus on belaying me than shoot a butt shot.
I do climb a lot of 5.8 - it's my favorite grade for long routes because it's a grade at which I can feel completely relaxed. It's just climbing for the pure joy of moving over stone.
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|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 03:59pm PT
|
Thanks, Ed! Didn’t know I was that gud! Woot!
|
|
Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
|
Definitely some good 5.9s in those 5.8s :-)
Curt
|
|
onyourleft
climber
So Oregon
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2018 - 09:49pm PT
|
What? No love for "Walk On The Wild Side" - Josh?
(To be fair, some guides give it 5.7, but I bump it to .8 based on exposure and general lack of pro.)
Can't find any pictures at the moment but it's a heady lead.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2018 - 07:07am PT
|
Lisa Poyneer Honeymoon's Over, Tuolumne Meadows, 2011
 loved the K Cracks
|
|
yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2018 - 10:32am PT
|
The southwest face of Shoshone (Blodgett Canyon) is a nice 4 or 5 pitch 5.8. There are many possible variations on the lower buttress and then follow cracks for three pitches on the left-hand side of the south face of the upper spire.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
|
Bela Logan, Desperate for Doughnuts, Yosemite Valley, 2015
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2018 - 11:48pm PT
|
A 5.8 you know well, Ed: the Chockstone Chimney, 10-star adventure 5.8. One I'll go back to.
Only complication is the descent, which was a bit sketchy.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2018 - 12:32am PT
|
^^^that's a good one,
I thought I had film in my camera (yes, it was that long ago) and didn't get any images on film that wasn't there... but there are images indelibly etched in my memory
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2018 - 03:19am PT
|
Modern Times Direct, )
Goes up the right side edge & center
of the very large stacked flake,(crux, harder than .8?)
then after the original crux, the break in the roof
at the right hand corner,
finishes up the slab thru the cap stone,
the black line
I ask'd Dana Bartlett, to go do it & give it a grade
The green line is Modern Times, 5.8
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2018 - 09:15am PT
|
ah the 'Gunks...
...but meantime on the Left Coast
Linda Jarit on Rock Pixies, Yosemite Valley, 2010
|
|
Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bigfork
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2018 - 09:38am PT
|
One of my all time favorite...Diedre
And another great 5.8 at Smith....Sky ridge
Love the grade!
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2018 - 04:26pm PT
|
A little fun one in Taylor Canyon, Gunnison - Dunn's Dihedral , hand crack at the back of the corner, plenty of stuff on the walls to stem if you want, bitd it ate stoppers and hexes.
|
|
thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
|
|
Some of my favorite Red Rock 5.8 classics. Fond memories now that we moved back to Kansas for family.
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
Lovers Leap
Haystack
Preparation H
East Cracks
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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+1 for Dierdre.
'Wing Feather' on Grey Eagle, Shuteye Ridge
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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^^^love the knob tie off!
Steve York, Captain Hook, Left, Yosemite Valley, 2013
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Dogfather! Yes to those mega classic Red Rocks 5.8s. Loved Frogland and Dark Shadows. Maybe Frogland a little more. Such a wonderful route.
'onyourleft' definite love for Walk on the Wild Side, solid runouts and the great exposed downclimb/walkoff.
I once took a 6 foot 10 new climber on Walk... and he was so freaked out, he was a super athletic guy, who high-jumped over 7 feet and played college hoops. He did fine on it as I recall. The exposure was a lot for him. Not sure he ever climbed again. It was a stout first climb.
Anyone mention the standard route on Clyde Minaret yet? There's a great 5.8 in a fantastic setting.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Photo of the upper half of the Vinatzer (Third Sella) taken from the Demetz (Second Sella). You can just make out a team about 2/3rds the way up the right-leaning crack system left of center. 5.8
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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I climbed the mega classic 5.8 S.W. Face of the Wedge in the Humbug Spires, Montana with this guy in a cowboy hat.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Gary Carpenter, Haley Anna, Yosemite Valley, 2012
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Ed Hartouni on Circular Staircase, Sentinel Rock
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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^^^I think that The RORP
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Yep you're correct. That's the pitch where I almost took you out with a dead tree!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mighty Linda Jarit leading the first pitch of Southwest Direct 5.7
Climber left of Linda is on a 5.8
Chasbro on the next climb over, Rangers are people too, 5.9-
So we’re averaging 5.8 here!
to our left climber on the ardous and infinite 5.11 stem pitch of El Matador ( climberon Macarthy west) lowerclimberison topofpitchobeelMat,5.8
What trip to DevilsTower would be complete without a Fulgarite?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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I went up Prime Rib of Goat at Mazama, WA, the other day. 11 pitches, rated 5.9-, but it's a soft 5.9-. Highly recommended! Get an early start and finish in the shade.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Jubilant Song, Red Rocks
Sail Away, Joshua Tree
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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it's a wonder that we find time to climb...
here's a picture of you on that day too, Gary
5/7/2011 11:51
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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photogenic climb, Jaybro and Steve summit, wearing the same Fish rugby jersey, the Edzilla era 2011
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I seem to remember no anchors on top of Sail Away in the 80's and having to down climb a 5.6
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Linda Jarit on the first pitch of Deto’s Soler, sometimes called a 5.8. A warm up for the 5.9, second pitch.. that was Her, lead
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perswig
climber
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Troy gets started in the final thrutch of Gargoyle, a fine .8 on MDI.
Dale
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Eric Gabel, Color Me Gone, Yosemite Valley, 2005
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perswig
climber
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^^
Damn, I miss .8-.9 slab climbing...
Dale
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aaron Smud, Left Side of Ivory Tower, Tuolumne Meadows, 2012
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Gerri on the first ascent of Crooked Neck, Penstemon Dome, 5.8. She's above the "walk the plank tree" as Dwight calls it. You don't actually walk the plank.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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^^^ Nice shot of Eric on 'Color Me Gone'. Hey Ed, how's Eric's ankle? Wasn't sure if he was able to get back out on the sharp end.
Love all of your routes Stephen.....well, most of 'em that don't put stains in the trousers! ;)
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Thanks Mooch. Yeah, what was I thinking about run-outs on some of my routes? But I think Crooked Neck is most likely fine. Somebody even added a bolt to it. And following up on Ed, the Left Side of Ivory Tower was an ok place to practice placing my first really large piece of pro, a Merlin 8. I have now placed it once.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Eric watches what's goin' on in the climbing world,
and we're still very actively completing the YFC (just over at his place yesterday going over pages)
but I'm not gonna post anything that would require him to explain himself...
...Eric in a very obscure place in Yosemite Valley, November 2017, please note that that is his clipboard for note taking for YFC in the right background.
We were just out taking notes, ya, that's the ticket...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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you can stick all sorts of gear in that crack, Stephen!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Ed,
Ha! Wow, lots of gear on our friend.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Gary Carpenter on Drop Your Heels Or Sure To Peel, Yosemite Valley, 2012
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Baobab Tree, Vedauwoo, 2008
this was already ten years ago, my how time flies!
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perswig
climber
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Pinn Butt, Mt. Wash; unknown party while we waited
5.8ish this pitch
Dale
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Eric Gabel, Better With Bacon, Lover's Leap, 2013
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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I was just thinking about climbing some 5.8. Collusion!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Linda Jarit cruxed, Edge Of Absurdity, Yosemite Valley, 2010
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Aug 10, 2018 - 04:57am PT
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Lousy shot of a wonderful Robbins route in Cracked Canyon: Chewbacca
Pirouette, same location: (maybe not 5.8, but I can't find a thread for 5.7):
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Aug 10, 2018 - 09:01am PT
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Cracked Canyon! Sweet!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 10, 2018 - 10:26am PT
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^^^love the shot, iconic, in my mind I hear the leader yelling down "which way does the topo say?"
and the fumbling of fingers pulling the folded script from a pocket, the mind glancing at a few abstract lines with age inappropriate lettering (small) attempting to convey a highly abbreviated notation.
First ascents are so much more sane that way.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 10, 2018 - 03:16pm PT
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Savwafare est everywhere. One of the better 5.8s in J Tree.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 11, 2018 - 10:19am PT
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Mike Church leads Baby, Shawangunks, 1980
one of our first climbs in the 'Gunks, chosen because "how hard can 5.8 be?"
note the rack of hexes and nuts, and some tied slings, EB's on the feet.
By the way, Baby is an interesting 5.8 to lead... usually we did it, BITD, with about 4 pieces to the belay.
This is my oldest image of 5.8, and I've shown most of my other images (at least the presentable ones)...
...so this thread will wait for me to collect some more images, or for some of you to share your own.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Aug 11, 2018 - 12:06pm PT
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North Arete, Bear Creek Spire
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Aug 11, 2018 - 12:13pm PT
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Barry being silly at the top of Moosedog tower, JTree. Whatever we did was 5.8, give or take
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:06am PT
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Eagle Lake Cliff, Unknown Chimney 5.8 bolts!
After you lead the chimney you can TR an amazing 4 star arete 10c called 'Off the Wall'
You've also get a good view of climbers on Space Walk 11d
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:25am PT
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Wonderful & wide, A Fritz Wiessner classic, put up in '40,(not,'41 as all the books say), Baby is a hard 5.6.
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Aug 15, 2018 - 02:22pm PT
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Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall, WA
Musta been a while back... those look like EBs on my feet.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Aug 15, 2018 - 03:36pm PT
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EBs, rugby shirt, no chalk...yeah, been a while.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 15, 2018 - 03:41pm PT
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I hope chiloe is well.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Aug 16, 2018 - 04:13am PT
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Cool shot of the crux traverse on Outer Space (rated 5.8+ back in the day). I was too lazy to even take pictures back then, let alone set up a shot like that!
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Aug 16, 2018 - 12:01pm PT
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No set-up involved in that shot of Outer Space. My friend who led the pitch before me sewed up the traverse and had so much rope drag that he had to belay early and just happened to be in the right spot for the photo.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Aug 16, 2018 - 02:27pm PT
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Sherman Granite 5.8 bumpity
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2018 - 12:49pm PT
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I hope chiloe is well.
Thanks Willbeer, still thriving.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 29, 2018 - 03:41pm PT
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Good to see man, I may get over your way this fall.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 29, 2018 - 03:58pm PT
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Snowy Mountain ,New York,5.8 all over it.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 29, 2018 - 06:13pm PT
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Likewise.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Aug 29, 2018 - 06:33pm PT
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North Ridge of Steeple, in the Winds is a fine five eighter.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 29, 2018 - 06:56pm PT
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Mike Church leads Baby, Shawangunks, 1980...one of our first climbs in the 'Gunks, chosen because "how hard can 5.8 be?"
...By the way, Baby is an interesting 5.8 to lead... usually we did it, BITD, with about 4 pieces to the belay.
This is my oldest image of 5.8, and I've shown most of my other images (at least the presentable ones)...
Bad news Ed. Back in 1980, Baby was 5.6. With the passage of time, it has made it up to 5.7. It may well finally get to 5.8, but no idea how long that will take.
As the difficulty rating have gone up, the seriousness has gone down, from ground-fall level protection when Fritz did it to an overhead pro from a large cam nowadays. Progress!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 29, 2018 - 07:50pm PT
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Ed mentioned the unknown chimney at Eagle Lake
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Aug 30, 2018 - 10:24am PT
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5.8 could be anything and that's great. but really the whole YDS could be broken down to 3 ratings 5.9+ 5.10+ and 5.11+. what else do you need ?
leave "sandbag" out of it. Your now a victim because the routes was to hard for you and your ego?
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hailman
Trad climber
Ventura, CA
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Aug 30, 2018 - 01:23pm PT
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meat and potatoes of Coffin Nail, Tahquitz
PS. With respect to some of the ratings discussion above, it seems 5.0 to 5.3 are almost completely ignored these days. It's like scrambling continues through 5.3 (people say "oh it's easy fifth I just soloed it), and if you use a rope it's automatically 5.4 or higher.
Even the Mountain Project listings for Tahquitz are bogus. Both The Trough and White Maiden's are listed as 5.4. Thought they were 'the definition' of 5.0 and 5.1, respectively.......?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 31, 2018 - 09:14am PT
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of course, right there in my ancient copy of Williams "red" guide to the 'Gunks (bought in 1980), is the exact point that rgold makes, Baby is 5.6.
A good climb and a fine tribute to the first ascent party.
FA 1941: Fritz Wiessner, Mary Cecil, and Betty Woolsey.
Amazing symmetry, having done the climb 39 years after the FA, and discussing that ascent 38 years later.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Aug 31, 2018 - 01:21pm PT
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Anyone out there have a photo of Sparerib in Gallatin Canyon Montana?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 31, 2018 - 01:53pm PT
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Ah Steeple! Climbed it years ago. We didn't tunnel through and instead climbed an offwidth crack on the left side of the boulder that forms the roof of the tunnel. Why? I have no idea.
A major epic ensued when the weather came in while we were just starting the summit raps, a reminder that 5.8 can turn from mellow to hell-oh! in the mountains.
I wrote about it elsewhere on this site: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/893158/A-walk-with-McCarthy-in-the-Winds
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 31, 2018 - 04:55pm PT
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There is nothing like the Winds,IMO. Good Stuff.
Miss them,I am going to ski Gannett before ..... I have been close.
I will.It is a serious mixed climb, descent,a commitment.
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