A Thread for 5.8

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Messages 1 - 138 of total 138 in this topic
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2007 - 01:05pm PT
Michael Hjorth shot this photo last week, on an old 5.8 route with character -- Via Internationale at Kullen. Test the blocks, brush guano off the holds, don't even think about smearing on that green stuff ... blue sea below us. I was lovin' it. Dig the flower.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
Heh, it's me above that Alien. I was less worried about the hardware than the placement, behind the same block as our anchor and kinda hollow-sounding for my tastes. But you go with what you can get.
dank

Trad climber
the pitch above you!
Jun 11, 2007 - 02:01pm PT
GNARBALLS!!
M.Tea

Trad climber
Utah
Jun 11, 2007 - 02:34pm PT
that's no alien...but it IS a cool photo!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jun 11, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
Cool Pic!

Looks a lot more like a Zero to me. And I'm not sure I'd call 4 feet of rope running it out, AC...
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 11, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
You're lucky you didn't fall, that rope would have snapped like clothesline.
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Jun 11, 2007 - 06:07pm PT
"Chiloe is pushin' it for sure!"...

I TOTALLY agree!!!...

looks REAL THIN for his feet and hands...

SCARY!!!...


EDIT:

Would that FOOTWORK be classified as "SMEARING" being so THIN???...
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Jun 11, 2007 - 06:28pm PT
I hope you were going to fall in the water, because I doubt any of that gear would have held.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
Like I say, I was lovin' it. ST'er (and top Danish climber) Michael was a most excellent host, meaning partly that he led all the weird pitches including one that flat punched me out. Anders Strange Nielsen was part of the fun too.

A few more photos thanks to Michael, I claim no credit for these (except the last).






Here's Michael, who thoughtfully packed a couple of most excellent warm beers for toasting our day from the clifftop.


wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 11, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
Tell him to chuck that rope and I'll see to it he gets a real one.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2007 - 01:45am PT
Really? I think Michael could use a new rope, that one was a bit furry.
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Jun 12, 2007 - 06:18pm PT
Thanks for posting, Chiloe. And thanks for sharing a very good trip to southern Sweden.

The trip was the fruit of a ST meeting - and did we talk ST in the car?! It was just a slight extension of the ST/C4 campfire.

Oh - he-he - thanks for the comments on my rope.

Same rope as in this picture. Me on Kullen as well, only 25 years previously. Whillans harness and EBs have been dumped, though.



Michael
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Jun 12, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
Yow - maybe we can pass the hat so he can retire that 25 year old rope!
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 12, 2007 - 06:33pm PT
Michael,

Email me a shipping address and I'll see what I can do.

There's a catch, however. If I'm successful in getting a rope to you I want you to post a photo of the old rope cut to pieces.

This is not a troll. Verify this with Chiloe.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
Ja, wootles is for real.

So we were climbing on a 25-year-old rope? Wild!
john hansen

climber
Jun 12, 2007 - 11:55pm PT
What type of rope is it and from when?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2007 - 12:12am PT
Domingo

Mountain climber
Jun 13, 2007 - 12:50am PT
That yellow cam placement looks a bit sketch but my computer lighting could be off.

Kan du bestig mycket pa Sverige? Jag visste inte...
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Jun 13, 2007 - 08:39am PT
It's all very thoughtfull of you. But then again, leader should never fall (Chiloe certainly didn't) and who has ever heard of a rope breaking?

Even though, with all that green rock and guano I am happy I wasn't up there...

Michael


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
Yesterday, elsewhere, some other 5.8, newer rope but it's only an 8.4. Anybody recognize this guy?

wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 17, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
Nice hat.

Is that Ennis Del Mar?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 08:19am PT
Heh, wrong cowboy! I thought the hat would be a dead giveaway, but it was too out-of-context for the westerners perhaps.

Only a Nor'easterner would know the route, though. See the white flake overhead? We'll get out a photo TR of the other stuff soon.
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 18, 2007 - 09:06am PT
The climber kind of looks like GOclimb but I can't be sure.

I'm sure I should know the route but I can't quite place it.
snakefoot

climber
cali
Jun 18, 2007 - 10:33am PT
I see tar opted for the single line, looks fun
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 18, 2007 - 10:49am PT
Is it on Whitehorse?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 11:04am PT
snakefoot, yeah, we used the doubles to get a couple pitches up CC (just one long rap down), then decided to "go light" on this route. Less clever than it sounded because we ended up needing both ropes to get down, again.

wootles, it's definitely on Whitehorse.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 18, 2007 - 11:18am PT
Very cool thread. Out of curiousity, how many distinct seacliff areas have been developed in the NE these days?
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 18, 2007 - 11:25am PT
Central area, maybe the Sleeping Beauty area?
L

climber
A small kayak on a very big ocean
Jun 18, 2007 - 12:04pm PT
Great photos, Chiloe. That first one of you and the flower had my palms sweating for sure--but it certainly looked like a great climb.

And that shot of Tarbaby is an all-time classic! (Does that guy not believe in aging or what???)
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
wootles:
Central area, maybe the Sleeping Beauty area?

Correct area, and remember the title of the thread! (I'd say more but that would spoil the fun, and yeah, you do know the route.)


L:
Great photos, Chiloe. That first one of you and the flower had my palms sweating for sure--but it certainly looked like a great climb.

Thanks, I thought Michael's photos caught the "atmosphere" of the place well.

And that shot of Tarbaby is an all-time classic! (Does that guy not believe in aging or what???)

One or two even better (IMHO) cowboy-hat photos from other North Conway classics yet to come; I'm waiting for Tar to get back online before posting. He shot a few too, don't know what they'll show. Tar and Lisa (who took first in her division, btw, at the tough Mt. Washington road race) ought to be kickin' back on Cape Cod today.
wootles

climber
Gamma Quadrant
Jun 18, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
OK I'm thinking Short Order and that crack is the upper part on Sleeping Beauty.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
Now yah got it, Short Order. Just what we needed at day's end, almost beer time. Sleeping Beauty is the cleaned diagonal line at top left in the photo.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Jun 18, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
Wootles, you're right, it does kinda look like me! Never been in that section of the cliff, though, I don't think. Might haveta change that, though, looks cool.

Chiloe, drop me a line if you're still around. Been too long since we've roped up.

GO
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Jun 18, 2007 - 05:00pm PT
And here's a 5.8 I did recently. Allison seconding Bishop's Terrace. Really nice climbing. Sorry the photo doesn't do it justice.



GO
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Jun 18, 2007 - 05:05pm PT
And on the other side of the country, Crow Hill, the best local crag in Massachusetts contains this gem called Tarzan. In this pic, Jen rallies her strength before heading into the 20 foot crux. Tarzan is a steep and technical 5.8. Sustained, with jams, laybacks, stems, slopers, and crimps. If you can lead this climb, you can lead any trad 5.8 in Mass!



GO
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 06:05pm PT
Nice photos, Gabe. Sounds like Tarzan is another of those old-school 5.8s that had teeth.

Great weather like this and the bugs aren't too bad, I'll send you a note the next window I have.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
Lately, I've been seeing a lot of this mellow grade.

Tarbuster again two years later, this time stylin' across Ruper.

MisterE

Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
Jul 2, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
Swedish climbers are core!

Holy crap - I replace my rope every year.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 2, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
Want to have serious fun? Spend a day climbing "only" 5.8 in the Gunks.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jul 2, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
Herb Laeger and Paul Clark designated this one as a 5.8 on the FA. Following an early ascent Eddie Joe pronounced this to be "the sandbag of the century."

Gilroy

Social climber
Boulderado
Jul 2, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
Good thing he is "fairly solid" on "5.8."
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jul 2, 2009 - 08:19pm PT


My son & I drove home over Tioga Pass a month or so ago, after the Steve/Mimi nuptials, and just had to stop and climb something in the Meadows. Drawing on fuzzy memories, we scampered up 5.8 Truck n' Drive on Lembert 32 years after I'd last done it. I was glad to see upgraded bolts on the route, though those pesky stainless hangers are a lot harder to spot in the distance than old rusty Leepers.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jul 2, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
Here's a 5.8

Not for the 5.8 leader
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
donini:
Want to have serious fun? Spend a day climbing "only" 5.8 in the Gunks.

Oh yeah. Leading classic Gunks 5.8 on sight feels like a mini adventure. F'rinstance Airy Aria,
linking the first two pitches.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
Different climb, oddly similar perspective -- Main Line (5.8) in the Gunks.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
Also in the Near Trapps, Eastertime Too.

perswig

climber
Jul 2, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
What, Short Order's an .8? So much for my early-season stoke.
Hope the Book's still at least 5.9? Please? My ego needs it.

(Really, only the awkward left reach off the funky cam mid-pitch seemed tricky. I'd vote for 5.8+ :))
perswig

climber
Jul 2, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
I'd have to offer up P1 of Chitlin's Corner (Precipice) and Gargoyle (S. Bubble) in Acadia as great climbs at the grade.

Dale
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jul 2, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
Any of you 5.8 leaders want to do an FA come on up to Tahoe and Shakespeare has close too 100 5.8 ish FA's. Bring your sack.....I'll lead my share.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2009 - 11:12am PT
What, Short Order's an .8?

Funny, I first climbed Truckin' Drive (upthread) and Short Order in the same season
(1982), and thought they were similar difficulty, say 5.8+, and psychological "type"
(thin face with spaced-out bolts). Both real fun climbs.

Don't know what the consensus is about Short Order now. As with a lot of 5.8s, the
leader should try hard not to fall.

As for the Book of Solemnity (5.9+), first time I did that I thought it would be 10a in
Eldo. Likewise the 2nd pitch of Chitlins Corner, which was 5.9+ in my guidebook.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2009 - 11:18am PT
One more Gunks 5.8: the first pitch of Main Line. Guidebook calls this pitch 5.7 (the
second, upthread, contains the 5.8) but when we climbed it the first pitch was soaking
wet and seemed harder.

Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 3, 2009 - 11:47am PT
5.8.


Photo by Blitzo.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jul 3, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
This is an infamous 5.8 in Taylor Canyon, Gunnison. Left Hand is one of those sequence dependent cracks that kicks you out and feels like 5.10 until you figure it out.

Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 01:17pm PT







Photos by Blitzo.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Tork, What is that?

Awesome photo!!!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 4, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
That IS a fine photo, huh, Blitzo.

The Flakes, MCR.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
That looks good!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 4, 2009 - 03:26pm PT






Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 03:36pm PT

Photo by Blitzo.

Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 4, 2009 - 04:32pm PT

Photo by Blitzo.
richross

Trad climber
Jul 4, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
Me following Bonnie's Roof,Gunks.

Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Jul 5, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
Awesome pics guys! Thanks.

Cheers,

Doug
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
In celebration of summer, now that summer's gone (credits to Leslie & Cowpoke, photographers):

"A 5.8 route for 5.10 leaders" quoth the guidebook. Maybe not, but it's fun. No Pigs at Echo.




Pine Tree Eliminate on Cathedral looks so easy 'til you're there, wishing for a hex.


SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 2, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
Rich
That's a classic picture on a classic route!
adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Sep 2, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
I forget who took this of me or how I ended up with it..a great route though!


http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3881337303/
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
Here's a picture looking down the pitch that's in adam d's photo above.
A wild place for 5.8.

adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Sep 2, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
Another Gunks 5.8 classic...Son of Easy O

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3881390443/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3882190274/


linking 2 great 5.8 pitches, fun to follow with a buddy too...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
The Gunks must have one of the best concentrations of classic, memorable 5.8s in the country.

Here's another view of the crux (Son of Easy O) in adam's pic above (David Lucander photo).

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 2, 2009 - 04:13pm PT
Just about any route rated 5.8 by Mark Powell in the mid-50's will keep your full attention.

John
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
Post a few?
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
Sep 2, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
White Punks on Dope
adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Sep 2, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
soft, over travelled Jtree classic...but it's still fun, right?


http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/1801105962/

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 2, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
The Nutcracker
The Needle's Eye
Tricouni Nail (see Rgoldstone's July 4th photo up thread)
El Cracko Diablo
Bon Home
Soler
Saterfield's Crack
Fantasia (the leap and Vedauwoo at various times)
hermaphrodite flake et al
The regular route on fairview.

many, many more

a lot of cool stuff happens at, or about, that grade...
cowpoke

climber
Sep 2, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
a couple of (on) frogland RR (Chiloe gets the photo credits):



one at DT that Jaybro mentioned for about 5.8 (Kelly gets the photo credit):


and one at DT, but not mentioned:


steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 2, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
Some good ones...

Braille Book, Yosemite


Granite Savior, Granite Mountain, AZ


Mars Attacks, Sedona


Morning's Mourning, The Overlook, AZ


Petit Grepon, RMNP, CO


Ruper, Eldorado Canyon, CO


Rye Crisp, City of Rocks, ID


Triple S (Shipley's Shivering Shimmy), Seneca Rocks, WV
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 2, 2009 - 08:44pm PT


Spare Rib, Gallatin Canyon
adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Sep 2, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
Jubilant Song, Windy Peak, Red Rocks


http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3882354005/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamdale/3883147228
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Sep 2, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Wow this is a really great thread.
adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Sep 2, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
yup...if you can't enjoy 5.8 there's something wrong with you!
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Sep 2, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 3, 2009 - 12:13am PT
Some of my faves shown. Igor, 5.8......OK...OK...I,, yuh huh... understand that.



Blitzo....that one looked 5.11. Tony Yaniro in EBs?
adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Sep 3, 2009 - 12:23am PT
looked a little like spider line but not quite...def NOT 5.8!!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Boise....
Sep 3, 2009 - 12:45am PT
WOW, That's a great picture, Museum.
Says it all.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2009 - 10:11am PT
There will be a story about this particular ascent coming in Alpinist 28, I believe.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 4, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
And, how could I have forgotten,
Magnolia Thunder Pussy?
nutjob

climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 4, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
A pitch or two from Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock should be represented in photos here...
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Sep 4, 2009 - 04:41pm PT

LOL Jay...
Or for that matter Rotert's
"Titties and Beer"

Surprised Chiloe (or any New Englander) has not mentioned:
N.Conway - Bombardment
Franconia - Reppy's

And is this independent routes or do single pitches qualify?
If so I plug for the 'DBL crack' pith up to Big Sandy.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Sep 4, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
The Mechanic's Route.
One of the older ones.


The last moves to the first belay can be cruxy if your legs are to short on one end.
adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Sep 4, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
Reppy's Crack, Cannon



khanom

climber
good question
Sep 4, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
^^ Oh my!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 4, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
I want to climb Reppy's! Anyone heading that way via Wolf City, tonight, after work?
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
Sep 4, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
[/img]http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/photo.php?pid=8483&id=100000204667187[/img]

How do i get the bastard to post?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 4, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
I tried to post it by adding img tags, when that didn't work I looked at it saw it is on my face, I believe they don't allow linking and you have to have it hosted elsewhere, like photobucket.
khanom

climber
good question
Sep 4, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Sep 4, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
what a way to start the weekend. 5.8 is great. Great pictures...I gotta lose some weight...thanks for the inspiration
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा, co
Sep 4, 2009 - 08:38pm PT



Squeaking in with a 5.7+ Stettner's Ledges from 1927.
MH2

climber
Sep 4, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
The Gunks have many great 5.8s

Squamish has Clean Corner.




the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Oct 9, 2009 - 12:02am PT
Credit: the museum
Credit: the museum
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 9, 2009 - 12:05am PT
Ezra, your first image tag should look open like this: [img]

You have both of them the closing tag. Here's your link. You also need to do the "view image" thing to isolate the picture.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 9, 2009 - 01:52am PT
museum, where is that one?
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Oct 9, 2009 - 02:08am PT
Hard to believe but this was mid-November BITD, as if the apparel and
gear didn't already scream that. I wonder how much of that moss is
still on the first pitch.
Dream of White Horses
Dream of White Horses
Credit: Reilly
Credit: Reilly
Credit: Reilly
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 9, 2009 - 03:11am PT
Supertopo Tony, Yvonne and I went to England in in 2007. This is how all my posts begin, but: "Pouring over book-X in year-Y, I've wanted to climb route-Z". In this case it was Mountain #26 "True Grit", 1973 and English gritstone. I couldn't remember how hard these routes were, but we're now 5.8 climbers so, there you go. The first was at Bamford Edge above our lodgings (pub!) by the Ladybower Resevoir.
Brown's Crack, Bamford Edge. 5.7
Brown's Crack, Bamford Edge. 5.7
Credit: Tony


The following are from some super moderate climb at Stanage (Balcony Buttress) that we translated to 5.6. Whatever. I whimpered on the lead, and you might notice the pro every 6 inches or so.
Credit: Darwin
Credit: Darwin
Credit: Darwin
Credit: Darwin

The following are from the NW end of Stanage Edge. We all found the gritstone grain milling wheels super interesting and between us, photos of them must have comprised half our pictures.
where the heck are we?
where the heck are we?
Credit: Yvonne
Tango Crack <br/>
Stanage, 5.4
Tango Crack
Stanage, 5.4
Credit: Yvonne
Some famous gritstone roof.  <br/>
&#40;OK, it's Quitetus, not 5.8 but 5.1...
Some famous gritstone roof.
(OK, it's Quitetus, not 5.8 but 5.10c or d, Joe Brown 1954)
Credit: Yvonne
almost to the pub
almost to the pub
Credit: Darwin

The birding was super cool, too. Then Tony and Yvonne went off North and climbed Ardverikie Wall on Binnein Shuas in the Central Scottish Highlands.
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Oct 9, 2009 - 10:27am PT
Munge, that one is the super uber classic "Stardancer" at Mt Rushmore...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 9, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
classic!
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Oct 10, 2009 - 12:17am PT
there's a 5.8 in there somewhere...

Credit: the museum
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Oct 10, 2009 - 01:08am PT
Man, that was fun! More pictures!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 11, 2009 - 04:21am PT
Did a "previously unreported " climb today;...Starrbonne (5.8)......it was a very good climb, a beautiful day, with a great view on cool rock....This picture was taken at about 5:00 this evening....Joshua Tree, Ca.



the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Oct 11, 2009 - 10:52am PT
McCarthy N face P1. Sorry if posted previously..

Credit: the museum

socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Oct 11, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
Dos Equis, Pinnacles Nat. Mon.
Dos Equis, Pinnacles Nat. Mon.
Credit: socialclimber
My favorite 5.8, 90 feet long with four bolts. Lots of stemming at the top. Almost fell once after a rain when a little crimp broke. Other than that fantastic rock.

Charles
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Nov 17, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
Gentlemen,

I need to put you attention to the first picture and TR on this thread: Chiloe's and my visit to Kullen in Sweden more than two years ago. Which promted several of you to question the safety of Chiloe, climbing as he apperantly was on a 20+ years rope...

Ofcause he wasn't! It was maybe three years old (but - ok - of questionable east european quality). Anyway, Wootles promised me a new Sterling. And he kept his word! Chiloe visited me in Copenhagen yesterday, and brought with him a nice, strong and unique Sterling rope. Wouw, I didn't deserve that!

The old rope HAS been cut up (so I can use it on plastic walls...), and this new one will be put to good use on slimy wet, green, loose and cold Kullen next weekend. Looking forward to that.

Thanks again, Wootles!

Chiloe, show us the picture!

Michael
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
OK, Michael, let's update the story! The original rope in question appeared in this photo that
Michael took in Kullen, Sweden ("the best climbing in Denmark!") back about 2 years ago.




Seeing this photo, the avatar formerly known as wootles remarked,
You're lucky you didn't fall, that rope would have snapped like clothesline.

Tell him to chuck that rope and I'll see to it he gets a real one.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
Michael replied with an old black and white photo,



Oh - he-he - thanks for the comments on my rope.

Same rope as in this picture. Me on Kullen as well, only 25 years previously. Whillans harness
and EBs have been dumped, though
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
This caused wootles to respond,

There's a catch, however. If I'm successful in getting a rope to you I want you to post a photo
of the old rope cut to pieces.

This is not a troll. Verify this with Chiloe.



I think Michael still suspected he was being trolled.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
DUDE ! That route will never make it on to 8a ! Furry ropes are way good, easier to grip.
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
Woups, 25 years! Did I write that?!
What a cheeky bastard I was. Sorry!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
Intentions were good, but for a long time nothing came of this banter. Events did not line
up favorably for a transatlantic rope-toss.

Then, a couple of weeks ago, I went climbing at Whitehorse with wootles (who has since
changed his name).




I mentioned that I would be passing through Michael's town soon, and could drop off a rope if
wootles still wanted to follow through on that old SuperTopo thread.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
And so it happened that, although the closest I got to climbing on this trip was a nice view
from the 21st floor,



I did get invited over for dinner with Michael's family and also astrange, on the right here,
who together with Michael comprises the Danish chapter of SuperTopo.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
And Michael now owns a prototype Sterling rope, only 2 of its kind in the world so I'm told.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
Which might be overkill for those Kullen belays!

richross

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
Me taking it down a notch to 5.7.

Mt. Desert Island,Maine 1985.

Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
Split Decision 5.8+
Split Decision 5.8+
Split Decision 5.8+
Credit: Batrock

Wandering Bovine 5.8
Follow a wandering line up the center well lit buttress.
Follow a wandering line up the center well lit buttress.
Credit: Batrock
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
Thanks for the full round up, Larry!

Just a slight drift:
Two remarks to your nice picture of Copenhagen:
1: The great building on the left will (hopefully) soon be turned into one of the highest indoor climbing walls in Europe.

2: Went up the spiral stairs on that central tower (Frelser Kirke) with my girls a few months ago. Youngest takes no notice of the 60+ meter above the streets; the other begging me to take them down again.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
That's a lovely windblown photo of your girls, Michael. And Copenhagen's a fine city.
Floridaputz

Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
Nov 17, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
Looking Glass, NC
Looking Glass, NC
Credit: Floridaputz

P2 WPOD
P2 WPOD
Credit: Floridaputz

Hot Flash, Red Rocks
Hot Flash, Red Rocks
Credit: Floridaputz
Rudder

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Nov 17, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
Traitor Horn and Mechanics Route on Taquitz gotta get honorable mention, forsure.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Nov 17, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
Credit: TGT
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jul 28, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
Hah hah! When the blocks can be wiggled with your hand that IS running it out! (it is a Zero)
Looks a lot more like a Zero to me. And I'm not sure I'd call 4 feet of rope running it out, AC...

Nice stuff Chiloe and you other dudes too! Woot!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 28, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
Best 5.8's on this Planet are in the Gunks.
yo

climber
Mudcat Spire
Jul 28, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
Fact: They are at the City.
Matt Sarad

Trad climber
Bakersfield CA
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:11am PT
Last Dihedral Dome Rock




reddirt

climber
PNW
Jul 29, 2011 - 04:18am PT
has anyone mentioned Irene's Arete yet? (ok, so it's 5.8-10ish)



Irene's Arete by Jeremy Collins, featured in Alpinist Summer 2006
Irene's Arete by Jeremy Collins, featured in Alpinist Summer 2006
Credit: Jeremy Collins
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jul 29, 2011 - 09:32am PT
Traitor Horn
Traitor Horn
Credit: Charlie D.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 10:38am PT
Scariest route I've done in years was only 5.8.

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Credit: mike m
Here is a beauty put up by the Conn's on Rubyiatt(spelling?) in the Cathedral Spires.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 29, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
5.8 was all I ever aspired to...



cowpoke

climber
Jun 1, 2013 - 05:07pm PT

Moby Grape at Cannon, yesterday.

A few of the pitches are carved into beautiful, seemingly solid granite slaps. Others make cairns along the approach look bomber. An early start, clouds, and a little thunderstorm meant the cliff temps were close to perfect. And, after 6 months of "working" on adding training weight, 5.8 was just right. The hike down was another matter. Car thermometer read 92 in the shade, and I was hurtin'...still am today!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Moby Grape has some of the best rock on Cannon, but I recall thinking there were whole pitches that could just fall off. Perfect granite that's not attached to anything.
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