A Thread for 5.8

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 138 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Oct 9, 2009 - 02:08am PT
Hard to believe but this was mid-November BITD, as if the apparel and
gear didn't already scream that. I wonder how much of that moss is
still on the first pitch.
Dream of White Horses
Dream of White Horses
Credit: Reilly
Credit: Reilly
Credit: Reilly
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 9, 2009 - 03:11am PT
Supertopo Tony, Yvonne and I went to England in in 2007. This is how all my posts begin, but: "Pouring over book-X in year-Y, I've wanted to climb route-Z". In this case it was Mountain #26 "True Grit", 1973 and English gritstone. I couldn't remember how hard these routes were, but we're now 5.8 climbers so, there you go. The first was at Bamford Edge above our lodgings (pub!) by the Ladybower Resevoir.
Brown's Crack, Bamford Edge. 5.7
Brown's Crack, Bamford Edge. 5.7
Credit: Tony


The following are from some super moderate climb at Stanage (Balcony Buttress) that we translated to 5.6. Whatever. I whimpered on the lead, and you might notice the pro every 6 inches or so.
Credit: Darwin
Credit: Darwin
Credit: Darwin
Credit: Darwin

The following are from the NW end of Stanage Edge. We all found the gritstone grain milling wheels super interesting and between us, photos of them must have comprised half our pictures.
where the heck are we?
where the heck are we?
Credit: Yvonne
Tango Crack <br/>
Stanage, 5.4
Tango Crack
Stanage, 5.4
Credit: Yvonne
Some famous gritstone roof.  <br/>
&#40;OK, it's Quitetus, not 5.8 but 5.1...
Some famous gritstone roof.
(OK, it's Quitetus, not 5.8 but 5.10c or d, Joe Brown 1954)
Credit: Yvonne
almost to the pub
almost to the pub
Credit: Darwin

The birding was super cool, too. Then Tony and Yvonne went off North and climbed Ardverikie Wall on Binnein Shuas in the Central Scottish Highlands.
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Oct 9, 2009 - 10:27am PT
Munge, that one is the super uber classic "Stardancer" at Mt Rushmore...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 9, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
classic!
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Oct 10, 2009 - 12:17am PT
there's a 5.8 in there somewhere...

Credit: the museum
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Oct 10, 2009 - 01:08am PT
Man, that was fun! More pictures!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 11, 2009 - 04:21am PT
Did a "previously unreported " climb today;...Starrbonne (5.8)......it was a very good climb, a beautiful day, with a great view on cool rock....This picture was taken at about 5:00 this evening....Joshua Tree, Ca.



the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Oct 11, 2009 - 10:52am PT
McCarthy N face P1. Sorry if posted previously..

Credit: the museum

socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Oct 11, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
Dos Equis, Pinnacles Nat. Mon.
Dos Equis, Pinnacles Nat. Mon.
Credit: socialclimber
My favorite 5.8, 90 feet long with four bolts. Lots of stemming at the top. Almost fell once after a rain when a little crimp broke. Other than that fantastic rock.

Charles
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Nov 17, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
Gentlemen,

I need to put you attention to the first picture and TR on this thread: Chiloe's and my visit to Kullen in Sweden more than two years ago. Which promted several of you to question the safety of Chiloe, climbing as he apperantly was on a 20+ years rope...

Ofcause he wasn't! It was maybe three years old (but - ok - of questionable east european quality). Anyway, Wootles promised me a new Sterling. And he kept his word! Chiloe visited me in Copenhagen yesterday, and brought with him a nice, strong and unique Sterling rope. Wouw, I didn't deserve that!

The old rope HAS been cut up (so I can use it on plastic walls...), and this new one will be put to good use on slimy wet, green, loose and cold Kullen next weekend. Looking forward to that.

Thanks again, Wootles!

Chiloe, show us the picture!

Michael
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
OK, Michael, let's update the story! The original rope in question appeared in this photo that
Michael took in Kullen, Sweden ("the best climbing in Denmark!") back about 2 years ago.




Seeing this photo, the avatar formerly known as wootles remarked,
You're lucky you didn't fall, that rope would have snapped like clothesline.

Tell him to chuck that rope and I'll see to it he gets a real one.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
Michael replied with an old black and white photo,



Oh - he-he - thanks for the comments on my rope.

Same rope as in this picture. Me on Kullen as well, only 25 years previously. Whillans harness
and EBs have been dumped, though
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
This caused wootles to respond,

There's a catch, however. If I'm successful in getting a rope to you I want you to post a photo
of the old rope cut to pieces.

This is not a troll. Verify this with Chiloe.



I think Michael still suspected he was being trolled.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
DUDE ! That route will never make it on to 8a ! Furry ropes are way good, easier to grip.
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
Woups, 25 years! Did I write that?!
What a cheeky bastard I was. Sorry!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
Intentions were good, but for a long time nothing came of this banter. Events did not line
up favorably for a transatlantic rope-toss.

Then, a couple of weeks ago, I went climbing at Whitehorse with wootles (who has since
changed his name).




I mentioned that I would be passing through Michael's town soon, and could drop off a rope if
wootles still wanted to follow through on that old SuperTopo thread.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
And so it happened that, although the closest I got to climbing on this trip was a nice view
from the 21st floor,



I did get invited over for dinner with Michael's family and also astrange, on the right here,
who together with Michael comprises the Danish chapter of SuperTopo.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
And Michael now owns a prototype Sterling rope, only 2 of its kind in the world so I'm told.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
Which might be overkill for those Kullen belays!

richross

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
Me taking it down a notch to 5.7.

Mt. Desert Island,Maine 1985.

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