ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Last >>
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Nov 25, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
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Toproping it has been mentioned a couple times . Does it has it's own anchor , or it's rigged somehow ? And , not to start a conspiracy theory , but might the route have been worked via toprope prior to the FA ? And would that taint the FA ? In the light of it's present day fame etc it's pretty hard to believe it was preserved as a ' ground-up ' (only) boulder problem from the beginning , or am I just off base .
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 26, 2008 - 08:06am PT
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Once upon a time, Columbia Boulder wasn't covered with campfire soot along the base. Mead Hargis posted this shot presumably after the first soot streak showed up back in the early seventies.
It would be a great project to restore it even though the contrast would disappear for the famous bolt!
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 26, 2008 - 08:59am PT
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tope roping it first is shameful
Putting things in some perspective though, pre-early 90's ascents probably did not involve a dozen XXL pads and a posse of cheering spotters ready to catch yer fall, ala the modern bring-the-gym-outdoors style.
I'd at least hope some old timers could appreciate this distinction, as I've watched highballs of the past become trivial, with stacked pads and gang spotting.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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top roping, stack o' pads=same thing bump
edit:In years of daily bouldering around Camp I only touched ML once. Walked up to it in my tennies and put my unchalked hands on the starting holds and Schultz preparing for a lap, yells "DON'T TOUCH THOSE F*#KING HOLDS"(It was probably hot).All four million residents of camp were staring at me. Dave laughs, "spot me man" and fires it. I never touched it again, since he told me not to.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Sep 20, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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lightning bolt, bump...
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