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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Jun 12, 2007 - 08:29pm PT
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Bump!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jun 12, 2007 - 08:55pm PT
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When I'm there, I chalk the stars on either end.
Peace
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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Jun 12, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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Does the bolt get washed away during the winter snow?
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 12, 2007 - 10:04pm PT
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Never goes away. It's a landmark seen around the world.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 02:56am PT
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I was hanging out with Roger and Peter this weekend. We took a spin around Camp 4, they had lived there decades ago and though there have been many changes, much had stayed the same.
But one thing was interesting, we walked around Columbia Boulder and took a look at Midnight Lightning, Roger checked out the lightning bolt and he asked "is that chalk?" and I replied yes... his response "isn't it amazing that generations of climbers have replenished Yabo's lightning bolt?"
It is amazing when you think about it. Not to be sucked into a maudlin funk though, Roger threatened to bring some yellow chalk and put a happy face on next time he was in town!
Here it is in the winter...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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The future of bouldering lies in ascents of problems in "full conditions" as the Scots would say! LOL It would make the downclimb pretty interesting too even with a heated chalkbag...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 13, 2008 - 10:58am PT
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I'd guess that it's not a good place to practice dry-tooling.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 11:21am PT
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No, but I bet if you moisten your shrunken little boulderer's tool at the crux and let it freeze in place, it could provide a much needed rest and shake out before the excruciating exit move. LOL The birth of wet tooling ,so to speak!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 13, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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Thanks for the clip, Jennnie
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
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The mantle would be harder in those conditions, but you'd have a softer landing if you blew it.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:41pm PT
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I remember BITD when Mike O'Donnell had a little gold lightning bolt ear ring. I sewed one on a chalk bag once. They were some kind of energy mojo. And no, I never did the problem.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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She is so solid in that clip. Very impressive. Back in the day when I lived in OC (early 80s), we'd boulder at the Beach. Some problems I could never do because of reach, until Lynn showed up one day. Such an intuitive, resourceful climber. She'd always find some solution to overcome a long reach. I still use her sequences on those same problems.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 14, 2008 - 02:20am PT
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Scott, how can I give you shiit (it's a way of life, for all of us, [you Know (!)] you do it too...) while still acknowledging the crazy shIt you've done?
You're still young and strong (since I'm a tiny bit, [increasingly less,] older, I can always pull that old guy card on you) today, what's next?
But Midnight Lightning, laps x 12? In a session?
Cheers to you! -Sincerely!
Maybe I should have worked it, when I, sorta, had the appropriate Mojo.
Anyone know how many ascents by those over fidy (# of times and/or # of individuals) that rig has grnated?
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 14, 2008 - 02:24am PT
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It's true
I was there as witness, he fell on the 13 try.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 14, 2008 - 02:29am PT
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Thanks for that, Werner.
That "Hot shot kid" really did show us how it is done, it seems.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 14, 2008 - 02:30am PT
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Also the the ends of the lightning bolt have illumination hashes spreading out ward like the suns rays.
Symbolizing, .... that, without the first superior penetrating knowledge given by the illuminating energy of the sun planet there would be nothing.
And thus, .....
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Last >>
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Nov 25, 2008 - 11:13pm PT
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Toproping it has been mentioned a couple times . Does it has it's own anchor , or it's rigged somehow ? And , not to start a conspiracy theory , but might the route have been worked via toprope prior to the FA ? And would that taint the FA ? In the light of it's present day fame etc it's pretty hard to believe it was preserved as a ' ground-up ' (only) boulder problem from the beginning , or am I just off base .
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 26, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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Once upon a time, Columbia Boulder wasn't covered with campfire soot along the base. Mead Hargis posted this shot presumably after the first soot streak showed up back in the early seventies.
It would be a great project to restore it even though the contrast would disappear for the famous bolt!
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 26, 2008 - 11:59am PT
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tope roping it first is shameful
Putting things in some perspective though, pre-early 90's ascents probably did not involve a dozen XXL pads and a posse of cheering spotters ready to catch yer fall, ala the modern bring-the-gym-outdoors style.
I'd at least hope some old timers could appreciate this distinction, as I've watched highballs of the past become trivial, with stacked pads and gang spotting.
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